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RajCaj

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Most likely the case they didn't do an alignment.
Hmm...interesting. Is it something they should have done without me asking? It seems like common sense to me that if they did work on the steering mechanisms of the vehicle, and caused it to go out of alignment, that they would correct that before giving it back.

Was that something I should have specifically requested, and even paid for?
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Arterius2

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Hmm...interesting. Is it something they should have done without me asking? It seems like common sense to me that if they did work on the steering mechanisms of the vehicle, and caused it to go out of alignment, that they would correct that before giving it back.

Was that something I should have specifically requested, and even paid for?
Probably because it was warranty work and if you didn't ask for it, they likely wouldn't do it, because they are either not getting paid for it, or not getting paid enough. Now if you were to pay out of pocket for the installs I'm sure they would be pushing you into all sorts of things "that needs to be done."

It's very simple to know if you had alignment done or not, on the last page of your service receipt, if you don't see 4 wheels with a bunch of red or green numbers, you didn't get an alignment.

I personally think you should get a free alignment if any component of the steering system is replaced under warranty, it depends on the dealer, I got a free alignment for loose steering/wandering issues, but many dealers will spin it the other way and try to pressure you into paying for one if you are the gullible type. Just take it back and say your vehicle drifts and pulls to one side, don't forget to mention that you don't feel safe and potentially fatal since you can't keep it in lane and have them get alignment checked.

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fat_head

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Did you do an alignment after replacing those parts? Most people ignore proper alignment is actually one of the main culprit in these issues.
My dealer replaced my steering gear and didnt bother to check the alignment either before or after replacement
 

TEOTWAWKI Rubicon

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I felt the same way when I first drove mine and tires were at 42 psi. Check your psi and bring it down to 37 as recommended if it is higher. If you have very few miles give it 500 miles or so for the tires to break in and get rid of the shiny coating. Plus you will get used to the solid axle setup if you are new to this type of vehicle - I was. I don't think it will ever steer or ride as good as a regular IFS SUV/crossover and that is by design, but its not that bad once you spend some time adjusting. I am not saying you don't have a real issue, just sharing my experience.
Thanks. I checked and lowered my tire pressure to 37 psi all around. I think part of this is just needing to get used to a different type of vehicle. I'll give it some time and miles and hopefully I (and the family) adjust to the ride. I don't have much experience driving Wranglers so it's hard to know what is normal or not. Reading these forums can make one just a bit paranoid!
 

Arterius2

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Thanks. I checked and lowered my tire pressure to 37 psi all around. I think part of this is just needing to get used to a different type of vehicle. I'll give it some time and miles and hopefully I (and the family) adjust to the ride. I don't have much experience driving Wranglers so it's hard to know what is normal or not. Reading these forums can make one just a bit paranoid!
I did an alignment, deflate tires to 34, improved caster with longer control arms, retorqued everything, and now I think it drives like a Cadillac.
 

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californiajeeping

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You don't want "just an alignment". You want them to specifically change the toe-in to total 0.20 per the steering star case. "Just an alignment" will get you "in spec" which is 0.0 to 0.20. And if you quote the star case, they most likely will do the alignment as warranty.
 

Arterius2

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You don't want "just an alignment". You want them to specifically change the toe-in to total 0.20 per the steering star case. "Just an alignment" will get you "in spec" which is 0.0 to 0.20. And if you quote the star case, they most likely will do the alignment as warranty.
I never asked for specific toe-in and they given me 0.2 (0.1 each) every time. Any alignment tech worth their salt knows to try get the numbers right in the centre of the scale.
 

Swanny297

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Thanks. I checked and lowered my tire pressure to 37 psi all around. I think part of this is just needing to get used to a different type of vehicle. I'll give it some time and miles and hopefully I (and the family) adjust to the ride. I don't have much experience driving Wranglers so it's hard to know what is normal or not. Reading these forums can make one just a bit paranoid!
Do a chalk test - 37psi is still to high
 

callerys

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I did an alignment, deflate tires to 34, improved caster with longer control arms, retorqued everything, and now I think it drives like a Cadillac.
Which control arms did you go with?
 

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Brooklynjlu2018

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Hi RajCaj,
Please send us a private message if you plan to re-visit your dealer to have this inspected as we would like to have this documented in our system and provide you with some additional assistance while your Jeep is at the dealer.
Lydia
Jeep Social Care Specialist
I have been having problems with my 2018 sahara wandering from day one it got exponentially worse when i put the mopar lift in two weeks ago they the dealer replaced my stabilizer but not with the fox one. Also I brought it home and found wear marks on my new spring from where it was rubbing on the bump stop already had a shiny spot after one week I swapped the front spring perchs out and got hd trac bars because the front axle was jus shy of 1” out to driver and approximately the same out to the passenger on the rear yet when i hit bumps it shakes the wheel alot. I have owned a couple jeeps and my work truck has solid axles as well i just expected my jeep to drive better than my 4500 ram bucket truck i drive fr work It feels firmer and seems to wander less with the new track bars but is it possible my steering box has been bad all along
 

callerys

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I have a question. I did just order the mopar 2" lift LCA's for my stock non lifted rubicon. Why do we need to adjust caster when other stock vehicles without the issue don't? Anyone without the wandering issue have their caster over 6 from the factory? The specs don't call for it to be more than 5.8.

Something else has to be wrong.
 

roaniecowpony

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Wobble is a steering problem - if your steering wheel is wobbling back and forth, that makes it harder to steer. :) Also, be sure they check your drag link connection at the pitman arm too. Like in this video. You could see why it could contribute to the wobble issue as well as the track bar.

One point I disagree with in this video and others i've seen, is the way that they mark the tire as a reference to measure toe. The best method I've observed is what a local alignment shop uses. They known for its expertise in racing and high performance exotics. I've been going there for over 35 years. They jack the vehicle, spin the tire, spray white chalk on the centerline of the tire, spin again and scribe a continuous straight line on the tire, measure front and rear (special trammel is needed on some vehicles where you can't measure straight across, especially in the rear of the tire). The white chalk is often not necessary if the tires have dust on them.
 

roaniecowpony

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I have a question. I did just order the mopar 2" lift LCA's for my stock non lifted rubicon. Why do we need to adjust caster when other stock vehicles without the issue don't? Anyone without the wandering issue have their caster over 6 from the factory? The specs don't call for it to be more than 5.8.

Something else has to be wrong.
Exactly. These factory alignment angles are not unique to the JL. They are founded in 100 years of producing millions of vehicles. What is it that people believe are novel or unique in design features in the JL that would be cause for different alignment geometry? I believe nothing is unique in our suspension or steering design that would warrant different alignment geometry.

I'm of the belief these issues are all about the details of the design, such as joint integrity, bushing spring rates, stiffness of steering links, stiffness of the Panhard (track) bar, etc..
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