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(update)New engine, it broke again a month later.

Ratbert

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LOL - funny, really funny. It's a 3.6 at heart.
I know engines. I know transmissions, differentials and more.
I was actually told last week, by the service manager at the shop where my wife's Wrangler awaits a replacement transmission "maybe I should hire you, I have an open bay and you still have all of your tools". That's what he said to me. said thanks, but I'm retired and too busy doing restorations for others these days.

eTorque is Jeeps name for a mild hybrid - based on the 3.6.
So you have a 3.6 in there.
That seems to be a recurring theme on these forums: "but It's an etorque, not a 3.6!".
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daniel5678

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LOL - funny, really funny. It's a 3.6 at heart.
I know engines. I know transmissions, differentials and more.
I was actually told last week, by the service manager at the shop where my wife's Wrangler awaits a replacement transmission "maybe I should hire you, I have an open bay and you still have all of your tools". That's what he said to me. said thanks, but I'm retired and too busy doing restorations for others these days.

eTorque is Jeeps name for a mild hybrid - based on the 3.6.
So you have a 3.6 in there.
The first engine exploded, I told everything I knew, I held nothing back, you don't seem to believe that an engine explosion could happen.
 

Yawnie'sPapa

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Oil catch solved some issues on my 3.6
Before in stalling my UPR catch can I did a lot of research on why and how a catch can works
The biggest problem I had with my 3.6 was spark knock / pre detonation on light loads up hill
I had read that excessive oil mist from the PVC system can degrade the air fuel mixture and cause spark knock (I WAS SKEPTICAL TO SAY THE LEAST)
After I installed a UPR catch can all spark knock / pre detonation has stopped . I have not heard one ping at all
After about 1000 street miles I checked the can and was amazed at the amount of liquid oil it removed from the PVC air stream
I can see that over filling the can could be a problem
So to solve this problem I added a 4ft 1/2in. PVC hose to the drain port on the bottom of the can doubling its capacity and ran it to a lower part of the jeep with a ball valve
I still drain it every 1000 miles put now see no oil in the can at all . All the oil is in the hose eliminating any chance of oil getting sucked into the intake
I chose the UPR because of its quick connect fittings and its location
You know there's a TSB for some of these - and i believe 2020 is covered. There's a revised PCV valve.
There's no such thing as "pre detonation" but I sure see articles in Hemmings and others mention it - seems that once someone used that term, it stuck and people use it to explain any "spark knock" which most of the time isn't even a spark knock, but is detonation. Detonation isn't caused by a spark so can't be spark knock. It's when fuel self-ignites after the spark occurs and there are two competing flame fronts. The first from the ignition or spark pushes the unburned fuel into a corner, so to speak, raising the pressure and thus temperature until it self-ignites. Bang, two flame fronts.
Oil make this worse.

As far as a catch can and "amazed at how much.........." and so on - if it was tan, or brown, it wasn't oil. It was likely mostly moisture mixed with some oil.
If you catch 8 ounces of oil, then your crankcase HAS TO BE 8 ounces low.
If it looks like a starbucks drink, it's an emulsion and only a fraction is oil.
For every ounce you catch in a catch can, the crankcase has to be that much lower. There's no getting around that.
So if after 4,000 miles you catch a quart of oil, you are down a quart in the crankcase and likely more because there's always at least some tiny bit of oil consumption.
 

Yawnie'sPapa

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The first engine exploded, I told everything I knew, I held nothing back, you don't seem to believe that an engine explosion could happen.
Tossed a rod/broke a rod, threw a rod, didn't explode........... at least in technical terms or terms used in engines and by mechanics. You want explosion watch a truck pull where the head is literally blown off the engine.
That one broke a rod, one of the ends of the broken rod smacked and broke through the block (we affectionately say "tossed a rod")
But then that's picking nits as people who don't know cars or engines may see it as an explosion because something broke and there's a hole. So it's................ whatever......

So your first engine broke/threw/tossed a rod, resulting in a busted block. Jeep replaced it.
But this time - we really have no idea at all what happened.
All we know is you modified it with a catch can, and it won't start.
We don't know what you mean by that - how it sounds, does it crank - does the engine spin by the "starter", but just not start, or does it do nothing at all? Any clicks or buzzing or sounds at all?

What does it sound like when you try to start it?
 

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Yeah, but he really knows nothing at all about it, and tosses on a catch can just because a prior vehicle smoked, and god only knows if that catch can was full of crap when he hit those grades, possibly dumping crud into the intake.
He says now it won't start - but does that mean it won't crank, or it cranks/turns over but won't fire.
There's so many holes in this story everyone is assuming many different things.
I see it as an owner who doesn't know his vehicle, and worse, tosses parts on not knowing why.
And yeah, I'm assuming
I agree that the OP’s choice of words is unorthodox, but I’m not ready to blame him. Rule No. 1 in Operations Management is “When something fails, do NOT blame the operator.”

Part of the reason we don’t know very much in this case is because Stellantis and the dealer are keeping mum, due to liability considerations I’m sure. Stellantis will be looking for someone else to pin this repair bill on, and they will try it to be the dealer, the service tech...or the customer.

Stellantis is not posting record profits by building quality products, and certainly not by honoring warranties.
 

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daniel5678

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Tossed a rod/broke a rod, threw a rod, didn't explode........... at least in technical terms or terms used in engines and by mechanics. You want explosion watch a truck pull where the head is literally blown off the engine.
That one broke a rod, one of the ends of the broken rod smacked and broke through the block (we affectionately say "tossed a rod")
But then that's picking nits as people who don't know cars or engines may see it as an explosion because something broke and there's a hole. So it's................ whatever......

So your first engine broke/threw/tossed a rod, resulting in a busted block. Jeep replaced it.
But this time - we really have no idea at all what happened.
All we know is you modified it with a catch can, and it won't start.
We don't know what you mean by that - how it sounds, does it crank - does the engine spin by the "starter", but just not start, or does it do nothing at all? Any clicks or buzzing or sounds at all?

What does it sound like when you try to start it?
When I started, I heard a "click" sound, it seemed that the starter was not working! I remembered that my companion checked the crank bolt with a 27mm socket, and it could be turned, no matter which direction.
 

Yawnie'sPapa

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It was installed when my first engine blew up. lol, they still gave me a new engine and it was under warranty.
Very different circumstances. Apples and oranges. They had no reason to wonder or suspect. You were driving it on the road when the first one went. You can't compare the circumstances.
I wouldn't - not doing forensics like I try to do. I'd see the first as a whole different animal, different causes.

You never seem to believe me. I go back to the dealer every 5,000 miles for an oil change, at 25,000 miles, and the engine exploded at 26,000.
I never said I didn't believe you that the first engine lost a rod and broke the block.
It's just that you leave so much out and use terms apparently few here understand at first. (indicating no automotive knowledge which is fine, too.... not everyone is a master tech)
So now WE KNOW that you have the dealer do the oil changes. That's a part you left out before, leaving some of us to wonder- was any of this self-induced.

As for the current issue - still a lot left out - symptoms. Won't start is a whole book of possibilities. You have not said, UNLESS I MISSED IT, whether or not it cranks or turns over, yes or no, and if it does or does not, what sounds are made, if it does turn over, does it even attempt to start?
If it cranks, does it crank slowly, or much faster than it used to? Does it barely crank over, or is that part normal and it just won't start.

I agree that the OP’s choice of words is unorthodox, but I’m not ready to blame him. Rule No. 1 in Operations Management is “When something fails, do NOT blame the operator.”

Part of the reason we don’t know very much in this case is because Stellantis and the dealer are keeping mum, due to liability considerations I’m sure.
Not blaming the operator, just stating there's been mistakes made, and - he's not telling the whole story - we don't know what "won't start" means.
If you were managing a crew and that crew operated some equipment, machines in a factory and one of them came to you and said "this press doesn't work" - well, is it plugged in? Is it turned on? don't you want to know what "doesn't work" means"
It would be nice to know what "it won't start" means - if it won't even crank over, that's a whole different set of things vs. it cranks fine, and tries to fire, but just won't start.
 

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Yawnie'sPapa

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When I started, I heard a "click" sound, it seemed that the starter was not working! I remembered that my companion checked the crank bolt with a 27mm socket, and it could be turned, no matter which direction.
If I am to take that as someone put a socket and bar or ratchet or whatever, and tried to turn the engine crankshaft - and was successful, meaning it could, yes, be turned in either direction.......... then the engine is likely not "locked up"..
If you hear a click - but nothing else happens, then we are looking at a starter issue, or electrical issue.
Again, assuming your friend/companion turned the engine's crankshaft over and it didn't just spin, but he did feel resistance while turning.
 

Yawnie'sPapa

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Oil catch can . Its oil not water or Starbucks mocha

Jeep Wrangler JL (update)New engine, it broke again a month later. can.JPG
Man, I'd go in for the TSB unless you are out of warranty, etc. That's a PCV issue that Jeep is aware of.
That does indeed look like pure oil. (meaning it should look identical to the oil that you'd get out of the pan)

Seems there is one common denominator... thats all I can go on until further explanation is given.
Starting to see some slight differences - now that more information is coming out -
Friend could turn the crankshaft either direction with a socket.
Attempting to start it resulted in "click".
The eTorque has a conventional starter for cold starts. The 48 volt belt drive starter/generator is used only for ESS type restarts, etc. so from that standpoint, troubleshooting this would be exactly like troubleshooting the 3.6 in my own Jeep - both have starters, both have similar electric systems in that regard.
it's a 3.6 with a starter - basic troubleshooting should apply.
Not having been the one to put the socket and bar to the crankshaft, I still can't say that there's nothing broken with the engine - it could well be that it will turn back and forth but not make a full revolution, or that it will, but offers too little resistance, etc.
It's hard to diagnose from thousands of miles away, but at this point, it's more information than was previously revealed.
As a troubleshooter, I tend to want ALL information, everything even if seemingly unrelated.
 

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Man, I'd go in for the TSB unless you are out of warranty, etc. That's a PCV issue that Jeep is aware of.
That does indeed look like pure oil. (meaning it should look identical to the oil that you'd get out of the pan)



Starting to see some slight differences - now that more information is coming out -
Friend could turn the crankshaft either direction with a socket.
Attempting to start it resulted in "click".
The eTorque has a conventional starter for cold starts. The 48 volt belt drive starter/generator is used only for ESS type restarts, etc. so from that standpoint, troubleshooting this would be exactly like troubleshooting the 3.6 in my own Jeep - both have starters, both have similar electric systems in that regard.
it's a 3.6 with a starter - basic troubleshooting should apply.
Not having been the one to put the socket and bar to the crankshaft, I still can't say that there's nothing broken with the engine - it could well be that it will turn back and forth but not make a full revolution, or that it will, but offers too little resistance, etc.
It's hard to diagnose from thousands of miles away, but at this point, it's more information than was previously revealed.
As a troubleshooter, I tend to want ALL information, everything even if seemingly unrelated.
Thanks for some clarification... your cliff notes version is much appreciated.
 

Yawnie'sPapa

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Thanks for some clarification... your cliff notes version is much appreciated.
SEVERE ADHD, being brief isn't exactly my strong point and didn't make it to my business cards (wasn't enough room)
 
 



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