Was that particular to the JL Rubicon, or to the JL over the JK in general? The JL did add the functional side vents to all models for under hood air flow…..Side note, and I know this is kinda petty on my part… but this really ticks me off:
In my opinion that is a flat out marketing lie.
Ours is the 2020 recon edition. Not sure if the sticker is specific to it. But all JL rubicon’s have the same NON heat reduction hood.Was that particular to the JL Rubicon, or to the JL over the JK in general? The JL did add the functional side vents to all models for under hood air flow…..
It's been done, see below. Although a lot of people say water isn't an issue.I wonder if there's a way to channel water and still have functional hood vents. Now I have something to keep me up at night to think about now until this is solved.
IIRC he used Frogzskin.@wiborcame up with a great solution, in my opinion. He opened up the factory vents and insulation pad, similar to what's already been pictured in this thread. But he used a specific material that allows heat to pass through, but doesn't allow water to drain unchecked over the top of the hot engine.
HUGE “like” to this post! My experience in Florida heat and water is the same. Another concern I have, which stops me from cutting the hood under my Rubicon hood vents, is a bow wave washing over the hood when entering a water crossing with speed and momentum. Besides, as previously stated, my 2.0T ALWAYS operates within normal temperature limits during blazing-hot Florida summer weather.The higher underhood temps on the 2.0 is mostly due to the catalytic converter being located in between the engine and driver front fender liner.
The hood vents only have a small drain hole for water, which is directed to either side and drained behind the front fenders via the hood insulator pad. Having those vents wide open can possibly lead to a small chance of issues related to cold water washing over hot engine components. I've personally watched my coolant temp guage while driving around on hotter days in the upper 90's. I've yet to see the temps go past 200°f, with an acceleration load on the engine. As soon as the throttle starts to relax to just maintain speed, the temp quickly drops at least several degrees.
Technically, they are correct as far as the hood being able to help with heat. It is aluminum, which is much better at absorbing and releasing heat than their stamped steel counterparts. Steel absorbs heat and just radiates it in all directions, thus blocking any further absorption.
@wiborcame up with a great solution, in my opinion. He opened up the factory vents and insulation pad, similar to what's already been pictured in this thread. But he used a specific material that allows heat to pass through, but doesn't allow water to drain unchecked over the top of the hot engine. If memory serves, he was able to maintain the factory drainage towards the fenders. Maybe he can chime in with his thoughts, now that some time has passed. We all know his jeep is no stranger to the elements.
Another benefit of the vents not being wide open is when fording water. The hood creates a bit of an air bubble that helps keep engine bay water levels in check. A fully vented hood would allow that same water level to rise higher when forming the same depths. It's why many say that it's best to keep a bit of momentum through deeper water. Enough to maintain the wake caused by the leading edge of the vehicle, that way the water doesn't get as big of a chance of infiltrating the intake tract.
I also modified my JLUR hood vents to be functional. Don't sweat a little rain with functional hood vents - everything in there is very well sealed up for some droplets of rain. I ran poison spider hood vents on all 3 of my TJ's in Washington rain for years - no issues. For real - the engine is 95% covered even with functional hood vents. The little bit that gets in there isn't going to hurt anything and at temperature is going to evaporate almost immediately.
The hood pad has nothing to do with heat and paint, it’s a sound insulation pad. The paint gets hotter in the sun than from underneath.It is completely normal for the engine bay to get hot, you should not be concerned about it.
Removing the hood liner is not a very good idea. If you do, heat from the engine bay will be absorbed by the metal of the hood putting the hood paint at risk of deteriorating over time. The hood liner serves a purpose (Sound and heat absorption).
But, we are Jeep owners and we loooove to fiddle, change, mod our Jeeps. Sometimes the urge to scratch where it does not itch overrides facts and our brains are fixated on modifying stuff that ain't broken
Sorry, you are incorrect. I do not want to school you on thermodynamics (Heat, Radiation, Conduction).The hood pad has nothing to do with heat and paint, it’s a sound insulation pad. The paint gets hotter in the sun than from underneath.