Trailer vs Seat delete

[LooselyHeldPlans]

It would probably work with a wood frame and 3/8". I had a buddy thats nearly 300#s walking around back there a few weeks ago. Its overbuilt as is.

Makes me wonder it I could get away with quality 1/4 if the frame under was extensive. I know at a certain point the weight savings won’t be equal to the weight of the additional frame… but I wonder what point that is.

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[LostSoul]

everything, is generally a compromise. Spend more on framing to reduce cost/weight of plywood decking. take a look at these shelf sagulators.


https://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/01/05/engineer-shelves-with-the-sagulator

https://woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/

 

[Jeff1]

Makes me wonder it I could get away with quality 1/4 if the frame under was extensive. I know at a certain point the weight savings won’t be equal to the weight of the additional frame… but I wonder what point that is.

I'm thinking of going with 1/2" plywood to keep the framing underneath to a minimum so I can store things under the platform such as a table, chair, etc

 

[mnjeeper]

65 3/4". This works for my seating position. I'm only 5'8" though, if you're taller you may want to adjust that. With the seats all the way forward I can put the head rest in which is 6 1/2".

Edit: These measurements are with the carpet on

This is the crappy part for me. I am 6'2" on a good day...and a half inch shorter on a bad day. I side sleep...so mostly it should work, but it's pushing it to where I am looking into trailers and conversions.

Too hot in the garage now, maybe I will sleep in the Jeep in my driveway one night to test.

 

[Stormin’ Moorman]

Makes me wonder it I could get away with quality 1/4 if the frame under was extensive. I know at a certain point the weight savings won’t be equal to the weight of the additional frame… but I wonder what point that is.

My "practice run" was with 1/4" and I thought it was too flimsy. It held my weight fine, it just felt too light to stay where it was with no screws.

 

[Stormin’ Moorman]

This is the crappy part for me. I am 6'2" on a good day...and a half inch shorter on a bad day. I side sleep...so mostly it should work, but it's pushing it to where I am looking into trailers and conversions.

Too hot in the garage now, maybe I will sleep in the Jeep in my driveway one night to test.

You could maybe sleep catercorner, but it wouldn't be ideal for sure.

 

[mnjeeper]

You could maybe sleep catercorner, but it wouldn't be ideal for sure.

Problem there is all storage is killed at that point...

Probably just won't work for me, but I will try for myself just in case.

 

[MassMopar]

We've slept in the jeep with the seats folded. I built a platform and we slept on that so I could stuff a fridge in the Jeep. We've slept in a RTT on a rhino rack backbone system. Now we've upgraded to a 5x8 cargo trailer with a RTT on the roof. The kid sleeps inside the trailer, parents and dog sleep up in the tent. The trailer doubles as a dry space we can all hang out and eat if it's raining out. It works great as a base camp and goes anywhere the rubicon can drag it. That said, when kiddo is staying home, we resort to plain and simple sleeping in the back of the jeep. I'm 6'5 she's 5'1 and we make it work. Now that we have a 4xE I will need to build something to level the floor out a bit. Our '18 JL was spacious with the seats folded compared to our '14 or '15 JKs.
I can't really imagine going through the hassle of dragging a trailer if we couldn't sleep or hang out inside it. The penalty for the trailer is high already, so we decided to go "non-offroad" type and use it as a multipurpose box. We're not going to drag a trailer down any difficult trails anyway so it didn't need to be lifted with 33s.

 

[AZ Hella]

I camp with dogs and prefer boondocking in out of the way places. There's certainly guys who pull badass solid axle trailers where we go - and they're rad, but ultimately I wanted everything to be "in" the Jeep, so went with a seat delete and built my own platform for I think about 115.00 in materials. I sleep in an Ursa Minor conversion top, similar philosophy of use to a RTT and the seat delete leaves plenty of room for bins/fridge/doggo sleep pad. The cool thing about the DIY seat delete is you can get to 95% functionality of Goosegear (my first world problem is I need to reach under the platform to pull out my air compressor vs having neato little storage doors) for just over 100 bucks. If you like it and need to doors/bling look of Goose...you can certainly buy it. IMO give the seat delete a try. I've had it in all my wranglers and would never go back. Cheers~

Some pics:

Did you use 3/4" for you delete?

 

[wibornz]

If doing a rear seat delete. Full, 60% or 40%, this is a great product. I just installed it a couple weeks ago. It is lockable, secure, the compartments are lit.

cargo dog

 

[Jimac]

Yes I deleted my rear seat, but still couldn’t fit in. So I added this 2dr accessory to my JLR. Does this make me a 4dr now?

 

[Jimac]

Oops forgot my photos!

 

[sourdough]

Oops forgot my photos!

I like it but what about the JLR's 2,000 tow capacity. Hope that trailer has brakes. I've been looking at Teardrops and if you stay under 2K loaded the pickings aren't good. Move into offroad trailers and I need a JLU.

 

[Jimac]

I like it but what about the JLR's 2,000 tow capacity. Hope that trailer has brakes. I've been looking at Teardrops and if you stay under 2K loaded the pickings aren't good. Move into offroad trailers and I need a JLU.

Yes, but it works and tow rating are conservative. This OffGridTrailer trailer dry # is 1800. Fully loaded with water and gear 2700 #. I have tow package, overload bump stops and electronic brake controller. Trailer has same size tires, wheels as Jeep and electric brakes. I have a 2018 Rubicon with 3.6 engine and 8 speed automatic.

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