Well unfortunately had to drop off my JLURD today for service. Developed an oil leak with less than 3100 miles. Will post once I find out what the problem is.
Starting to become common, and obvious that VM had a bad batch of timing covers. What is your build date?Oil leak coming from the front cover/timing . Now an estimated wait of 2 more weeks waiting on parts.
I got my build sheet on 3-11-20 and took delivery on 4-10-20. Currently waiting on new fuel rails.Starting to become common, and obvious that VM had a bad batch of timing covers. What is your build date?
My repair took two weeks. The technician had a hard time removing one of the injectors to make access to the valve cover so he could get the timing cover off.
UPDATE on my situation...I have to add mine to the list...
I have been a German car and motorcycle enthusiast for over 30 years. My last American car was a 1986 Corvette. I ordered my Jeep in January and didn't see it until May....no doubt thanks to supply chain disruptions related to COVID-19. My Jeep is a 2020 red JLUR EcoDiesel (yes, tan leather...) fully loaded including the sky top roof.
The car ran flawlessly (including some time at Hollister Hills SVRA) until at 2800 miles, the CEL came on following several episodes of complete loss of engine power when trying accelerate at stop signs or traffic lights. It seemed that the problem was manifested soon after starting the engine (i.e. cold) and that acceleration and power seemed to normalize once the engine was warmed up.
My car was at the dealership for 4 weeks, initially being told it was a faulty EGR valve based on the codes from the ECU. I was then informed that there was also a leaking EGR coolant system and then a leaking high-pressure injector fuel return line. That little return line had to come from the FCA engine factory in Italy...
I finally picked up the car this past Thursday and drove it back to my office, ~ 25 miles. No problems. When I went to pick up lunch at a local restaurant, the acceleration failure issue happened again. This time, I saw a new indicator light, the ESS fault indicator. When I went home on Friday evening, the CEL came after the engine started sputtering on ignition start. Acceleration from a stop was highly abnormal until the car warmed up, after which engine response and power seemed to normalize.
Here is what I am observing:
If the problem occurs when the car is cold, perhaps that implies a mechanical issue somewhere like a stuck valve or a partially clogged or kinked fluid line that clears when it heats up and expands. In my case, maybe the EGR issues were the result of, rather than the cause of, some other problem, like in one of the systems that control combustion. Given that the problem occurred despite replacing the EGR valve and cooling system, it would add strength to that argument. Alternatively, perhaps there is a software bug that is causing the ESS to get confused because of abnormal combustion…
- It happens when the engine is cold or not fully warmed up
- Applying the gas pedal results in complete or near complete lack of response by the engine. It feels like the engine is either not firing at all or firing on only 1 or 2 cylinders. I don’t hear, feel or smell signs of misfiring. When idling, the engine sputters (abnormal timing) until the engine is warm.
- From a dead cold start, turning off the ESS switch did not seem to help.
- Once the engine warms up, the car responds normally
First and foremost, I would like to be able to enjoy my car and have confidence that it is safe to drive and reliable enough to be able to enjoy it for what the car is made for, exploring off-road. Like many folks, I have already invested considerable time and $$ in the car (lights, winch, rails/steps/storage, etc). At this time, I am not confident about taking this car to the mall, never mind up the Rubicon Trail. If this issue drags on, by the time I get the Jeep back, this summer season will be over. If there was ever a summer to go off road and off the grid camping, this was it due to COVID-19.
I was going to bring the car immediately back to the dealer but I decided to hold on to it for a while. I think it might be helpful if I spend time behind the wheel to better understand the range of behaviors with the car cold vs warm, ESS turned off vs left on, etc. Although the service advisor said that the technician took my car out for a spin and found that everything was working well before releasing it, the problem came back after some time on the road.
So far, I have been satisfied with the responsiveness of the dealer and FCA but they are running out of time to get it right before I start thinking about the “L” word…
The dealer said that because the error was now gone (only historical) that they had nothing to fix. I will see if it comes back.I am taking my vehicle in today for a P01D5 error (CYLINDER 6 INJECTION TIMING PERFORMANCE - OVER RETARDED). I was 630 miles from home so I am taking it to a dealer other than the one I normally use.
EDIT: I should add that it was at 5,300 miles.
My accelerator response changed dramatically at 500 miles. It simply screams now getting onto the highway with much less pedal input. Be very careful adding anything to the diesel: in the supplemental diesel manual it talks about how the computer records literally everything added, changed, etc. and the memory cannot be erased. Don’t remember reading that warning on my past JKs.UPDATE on my situation...
It turned out that I had a second EGR valve failure. It took another 10 days for the dealer to obtain the parts and repair the car. I will say that since I picked up the car on 8/29, I have had no further issues...almost. A couple of days after picking up the car, I received a low oil pressure warning. I could not find an oil leak anywhere. It turned out it was a real warning...I was down a quart.
If the car can continue to behave, I will be a happy guy because when it is working, the EcoDiesel is a blast to drive. FWIW, the mushy accelerator response can be cured with a Pedal Commander.
Now on to the uncomfortable seats!
Thanks for the heads up on the computer. I saw that warning as well. Pedal Commander states it doesn't get captured by the ECU. In my case, it makes a big difference.My accelerator response changed dramatically at 500 miles. It simply screams now getting onto the highway with much less pedal input. Be very careful adding anything to the diesel: in the supplemental diesel manual it talks about how the computer records literally everything added, changed, etc. and the memory cannot be erased. Don’t remember reading that warning on my past JKs.
No issues related to the diesel engine yet at 600 miles. Only issues have been a off-center steering wheel that I have fixed (which incidentally has a lot to do with the vehicle feeling like it’s pulling one direction — had to move the wheel the direction opposite to the pull even though the wheel sat turned the OTHER way off center when cruising). Second issue which I saw before buying and decided to not care, is the welds around the inside of the driver’s side door where never smoothed out before being painted. The three other doors inside welds are in varying states of being smoothed out. Can’t really notice on a darker color like sarge, but might have looked bad on a white vehicle.
The Jeep does seem to eat DEF for breakfast when in 4WD — it’s down to just over half after a few hours off road but just over 500 miles on the OD. Definitely will carry DEF on board if taking a trip with extensive time in 4WD.
I loved the Pedal Commander I had on my Power Wagon – it was a terrible driving experience without it.Thanks for the heads up on the computer. I saw that warning as well. Pedal Commander states it doesn't get captured by the ECU. In my case, it makes a big difference.
I had to replace 2.5 gal of DEF at 4000 miles.
how hard is it to get a second “clean”ECU?I loved the Pedal Commander I had on my Power Wagon – it was a terrible driving experience without it.
It sits between the pedal input cable and the pedal, so it shouldn't be recorded – but – if you're not careful to follow the Pedal Commander instructions to leave your key inside the house far away from the vehicle and leave the vehicle door open until the vehicle's system fully powers down (all lights go off, etc.) before disconnecting the pedal, the system will throw a pedal-specific code that gets recorded. That code is a dead giveaway that you used a device for throttle input modification. But you're right – if done properly, it shouldn't record it – but who knows – maybe Jeep can now detect when the throttle input curve is being modified. I doubt it, but you never know.