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Towing your JL behind an RV... lessons learned?

dragoneggs

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I'm setting up to tow my 2dr JLR behind my Class C RV. Looking to learn any tips or lessons learned from those that have a JL toad. So far my biggest concern has been to keep my mods and cargo as light as possible as I am already at my CGVW rating.

Of course pics welcome of your set up. Interested in braking systems, debris protection, when to unhook over passes, etc.
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Cycle11111

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Well we tow a mod’d 2 door sport behind our 2500 Sprinter van. We use a BlueOx tow setup and their Phoenix brake controller. It tows quite well and the only time it is truly challenging is climbing long mountain grades where you end up approaching the speed of a loaded semi. We have unhooked for very long passes like Donner Pass on 80 or Eisenhower in Colorado. The brake controller works great but test it in advance to get strength and sensitivity right. Also one time I noticed the indicator and brake lights were not working and the leads for the 6 pin connector to the Jeep were all loose and I had to re-tighten (I added blue loctite).
 

LooselyHeldPlans

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Well we tow a mod’d 2 door sport behind our 2500 Sprinter van. We use a BlueOx tow setup and their Phoenix brake controller. It tows quite well and the only time it is truly challenging is climbing long mountain grades where you end up approaching the speed of a loaded semi. We have unhooked for very long passes like Donner Pass on 80 or Eisenhower in Colorado. The brake controller works great but test it in advance to get strength and sensitivity right. Also one time I noticed the indicator and brake lights were not working and the leads for the 6 pin connector to the Jeep were all loose and I had to re-tighten (I added blue loctite).
Info on your sprinter? I’ve looked up their capacities and was under the impression JLs were generally outside their capacity.
 

Jim1964

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The JL transfer case can be difficult to get in and out of Neutral. I have extensive experience towing various Jeeps as well as GM, Ford, Ram and this is one of the worst. Sometimes it’s easy, but depending on the position of the gears and any loading it can also be challenging. It feels like they have interlocked the transfer case shifter with the ignition like the transmission is, adding to the difficulty.

I use RVI brake, which IMO is the best of the portable units. Lots of information and remote adjustments from inside the towing vehicle. Not without occasional glitches though, and if I used only one toad I would choose a permanently installed system in just that vehicle.

I don’t use any debris protection. Never seen the need.

We don’t unhook for mountains. If I can’t run with the cars, we’ll be in the right lane with trucks. Stopping twice to unhitch and reconnect will lose you more time than slowing down. Now if you’re uncomfortable driving downhill at max weight, by all means disconnect. The price for a mistake is very high.
But it’s not rocket science. Go down at approximately the same speed and gear you would go up. Use brakes only intermittently so they can cool. Too much braking means you are in too high a gear going too fast.

TFL Truck videos where they test vehicles towing up and down the Eisenhower are very informative.

I commend you for doing homework in advance. Figuring out what you will do in the moment, in traffic, is not the way to go.
 

Captain Skip

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I tow my JL behind a 25' motorhome. I had a JK that I also towed previous to this one so I set up the JL the same way. Rock Jock towplate - they build off road suspension parts and their towplate is solid. Plus, it doesn't look like a snow plow frame like the Blue Ox and Roadmaster. https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9033JLP For a towbar I use a Readybrute Elite II. It has an integral surge brake system so you don't need to put any type of power draining box on the driver's side floor. https://www.readybrake.com/store/p284/Ready_Brute_Elite_II.html We put 6,000 miles on the RV this past winter towing the JL without any problems whatsoever. I highly recommend the Rockjock/Readybrute combo. Takes 3 minutes to hook up and about 2 minutes to unhook. I did this whole write up when I set up the JL. https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ed-setting-up-a-jl-as-a-toad-long-read.60560/
Jeep Wrangler JL Towing your JL behind an RV... lessons learned? IMG_1063.JPG
 

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Cycle11111

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Info on your sprinter? I’ve looked up their capacities and was under the impression JLs were generally outside their capacity.
You can tow up to 5K with the 2500 and a 2-door JL sport is well under thag
 

Cycle11111

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The JL transfer case can be difficult to get in and out of Neutral. I have extensive experience towing various Jeeps as well as GM, Ford, Ram and this is one of the worst. Sometimes it’s easy, but depending on the position of the gears and any loading it can also be challenging. It feels like they have interlocked the transfer case shifter with the ignition like the transmission is, adding to the difficulty.

I use RVI brake, which IMO is the best of the portable units. Lots of information and remote adjustments from inside the towing vehicle. Not without occasional glitches though, and if I used only one toad I would choose a permanently installed system in just that vehicle.

I don’t use any debris protection. Never seen the need.

We don’t unhook for mountains. If I can’t run with the cars, we’ll be in the right lane with trucks. Stopping twice to unhitch and reconnect will lose you more time than slowing down. Now if you’re uncomfortable driving downhill at max weight, by all means disconnect. The price for a mistake is very high.
But it’s not rocket science. Go down at approximately the same speed and gear you would go up. Use brakes only intermittently so they can cool. Too much braking means you are in too high a gear going too fast.

TFL Truck videos where they test vehicles towing up and down the Eisenhower are very informative.

I commend you for doing homework in advance. Figuring out what you will do in the moment, in traffic, is not the way to go.
I have zero issue getting my JL in and out of neutral in the T-case. I wheel a bunch so am always going in and out of low range and when brand new the first couple of times are still but after that NP.
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