Towing a boat

jimim

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Hey all. I’m buying a bass boat. The package weight is 1900 lbs. I have a 20 rubicon with the 2.0 engine. Stock tires. Teraflex leveling kit. Tow package.

am I going to have issues towing this? Any advice on What Else I’m going to need?

thanks,
jim
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Reinen

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2dr has a towing capacity of 2000lbs, 4dr is 3500lbs.
You'll be fine but take it easy if you have a 2dr as you're near the limit. Make sure your trailer's tongue weight is between 190-285 lbs. You may need to get the AirLift 1000 to level out your rear if it sags too much.
 
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jimim

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4 door. Sorry guys.

Do I just ask the boat dealer the tongue weight? I don’t see anything on G3’s site.

Also any suggestions on a hitch acceptor I know I need a 2 inch ball. Should I get an adjustable height one?

Anything else I need to know?
 

Rhinebeck01

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4 door. Sorry guys.

Do I just ask the boat dealer the tongue weight? I don’t see anything on G3’s site.

Also any suggestions on a hitch acceptor I know I need a 2 inch ball. Should I get an adjustable height one?

Anything else I need to know?
@jimim

What, I learned after my first 20 years of towing, is to just invest in a half way decent adjustable hitch.

Over the years, you will acquire and use, borrow and use, or whatever many different trailers.

Over the years,... you end up buying different rise/drop hitches... a 2", a 4", a 6", etc., and you end up with a pile of hitches and over the long haul spend a lot of $ on a scad of hitches.

Also, depending on your trailer, the height of the trailer tongue can differ by inches depending on, if it is loaded or empty, etc... or if you have passengers in the back of the tow vehicle...Today you may need a 1 inch drop and tomorrow you may need a 2 or 4", 6' or 8" drop.. or you may need a 2", 3:, or whatever rise....

With that said.... I encourage all to buy a decent adjustable hitch.

Yes, a decent adjustable hitch will cost you $100+- but you will always have a proper hitch when you are dealing with whatever trailer you are dealing with. Think tomorrow and years to come and how your needs will change.

Buy an adjustable hitch and that one time purchase will go through life with you so to speak.

If you carry a adjustable hitch with you, you will always be prepared for whatever trailer you back up to ..... regardless of your tow vehicle.

IMPORTANT: Whatever you buy, you need to assure it extends ..... out just past the Jeep's spare tire.
Best to avoid hitch extender's in regard to towing..

.
 
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jimim

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@jimim

What, I learned after my first 20 years of towing, is to just invest in a half way decent adjustable hitch.

Over the years, you will acquire and use, borrow and use, or whatever many different trailers.

Over the years,... you end up buying different rise/drop hitches... a 2", a 4", a 6", etc., and you end up with a pile of hitches and over the long haul spend a lot of $ on a scad of hitches.

Also, depending on your trailer, the height of the trailer tongue can differ by inches depending on, if it is loaded or empty, etc... or if you have passengers in the back of the tow vehicle...Today you may need a 1 inch drop and tomorrow you may need a 2 or 4", 6' or 8" drop.. or you may need a 2", 3:, or whatever rise....

With that said.... I encourage all to buy a decent adjustable hitch.

Yes, a decent adjustable hitch will cost you $100+- but you will always have a proper hitch when you are dealing with whatever trailer you are dealing with. Think tomorrow and years to come and how your needs will change.

Buy an adjustable hitch and that one time purchase will go through life with you so to speak.

If you carry a adjustable hitch with you, you will always be prepared for whatever trailer you back up to ..... regardless of your tow vehicle.

IMPORTANT: Whatever you buy, you need to assure it extends ..... out just past the Jeep's spare tire.
Best to avoid hitch extender's in regard to towing..

.
Thanks for that post. Can you recommend a good one? How do I know if it is long enough to measure beyond the spare tire? Is there a number with the factory ko2’s that everyone uses or so I just measure it roughly myself? Thanks a lot.

Do you think with a package weight just under 2000 lbs I should be fine? I’m assuming that is with the 90 Yamaha already in it.
 

GATORB8

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Do you think with a package weight just under 2000 lbs I should be fine? I’m assuming that is with the 90 Yamaha already in it.
You have some overhead in the tow weight, so you should be good, but a couple comments.

The 2k lb includes the trailer right? You'll need to make sure engine weight is included, but don't forget fuel and equipment if it's a dry rating.

Normally the boat manufacturers do a decent job setting up the trailers, but you'll want to make sure you end up with a level trailer with appropriate tongue weight (may mean loading gear more forward in the boat). Boats tend to be tongue light compare to what you'd normally want (in the 10% range), so you don't want to make that worse. Good news is that lower tongue weight will give you some more payload flexibility. Remember, tongue weight comes out of your payload rating.

The spec sheet for the boat (or the dealer) should be able to give you the proper tongue height, you'll want to make sure you have enough drop to make it down to that height. If you go with an adjustible per @Rhinebeck01's recommendation, you should be fine, but just check it's within the range. Mine's almost 20", but not sure if bass boats are similar, 18.5 is pretty common for standard trailers.

If the trailer has a surge brake and swing tongue on it, that may be enough to get you clear of the spare with the lower bow rise of a bass boat, it's good to measure from the bow to the coupler and use that as a gauge to clear.

Oh, and BoatBuckle transom tie downs are awesome if you're not slipping it.
 

AcesandEights

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Yes, at under 2,000 lbs, you'll be fine. Practice driving around though, and get good at backing, and tight spaces.
 
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jimim

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You have some overhead in the tow weight, so you should be good, but a couple comments.

The 2k lb includes the trailer right? You'll need to make sure engine weight is included, but don't forget fuel and equipment if it's a dry rating.

Normally the boat manufacturers do a decent job setting up the trailers, but you'll want to make sure you end up with a level trailer with appropriate tongue weight (may mean loading gear more forward in the boat). Boats tend to be tongue light compare to what you'd normally want (in the 10% range), so you don't want to make that worse. Good news is that lower tongue weight will give you some more payload flexibility. Remember, tongue weight comes out of your payload rating.

The spec sheet for the boat (or the dealer) should be able to give you the proper tongue height, you'll want to make sure you have enough drop to make it down to that height. If you go with an adjustible per @Rhinebeck01's recommendation, you should be fine, but just check it's within the range. Mine's almost 20", but not sure if bass boats are similar, 18.5 is pretty common for standard trailers.

If the trailer has a surge brake and swing tongue on it, that may be enough to get you clear of the spare with the lower bow rise of a bass boat, it's good to measure from the bow to the coupler and use that as a gauge to clear.

Oh, and BoatBuckle transom tie downs are awesome if you're not slipping it.

Boat Buckles are awesome. All my buddies boats have them. Beyond quick and easy to use. I'm not slipping it. We bounce weekly.

So I emailed G3. The dealer said he wasn't sure of total weight but said the engine weight is 350 so even if the package weight is off (trailer and boat I should be good). So my package weight can be 2000-2400 lets say without gas.

He said tongue weight is between 150-200.
2 inch ball at 21 inch height.

Thats what I got so far.
 
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jimim

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Yes, at under 2,000 lbs, you'll be fine. Practice driving around though, and get good at backing, and tight spaces.
So my weight is looking to be 2000-2400 without gas and gear cause the dealer didn't know exactly. Don't know how. So I emailed G3.

I have been loading and unloading 2 different boats all summer. Backing up parking. all that good stuff. I'm getting better. I can do the larger boat easier which is weird I think. I'm not the best at ramps that allow 3 boats at ta time. I get wicked stage fright. When its a single boat I'm good. Cause if someone says something my buddies blast them. lol

I am getting better though. Backing into parking spots in lots for some of the swampy places we fish at is still very difficult for me.
 

GATORB8

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Boat Buckles are awesome. All my buddies boats have them. Beyond quick and easy to use. I'm not slipping it. We bounce weekly.

So I emailed G3. The dealer said he wasn't sure of total weight but said the engine weight is 350 so even if the package weight is off (trailer and boat I should be good). So my package weight can be 2000-2400 lets say without gas.

He said tongue weight is between 150-200.
2 inch ball at 21 inch height.

Thats what I got so far.
Guessing an 1810 Sportsman based on the weight? Just googling, may be a little tight on a short hitch:
1630338192405.png


Remember you need enough for rotation for turns.

I have an I/O, but not sure if a transom saver (outboard trailer prop) may be worth picking op.

Shorter trailers react faster to steering input, that's probably why you're having an easier time with the longer ones. Remember to use slow/gradual changes in steering and it will probably help you out. The short wheelbase of the jeep makes it even quicker. You'll get the hang of it, I've slipped for years at this point and I have to knock the rust off a little when I pull it for the season.
 

AcesandEights

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As written above, the short wheelbase will make things harder (at least for me). I like using a crew cab pick up and a dual-axle trailer, everything comes around, but not too quick, haha!

I have a very similar boat...sort of. Mine's a Tracker, but very similar.
 

Rhinebeck01

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Thanks for that post. Can you recommend a good one? How do I know if it is long enough to measure beyond the spare tire? Is there a number with the factory ko2’s that everyone uses or so I just measure it roughly myself? Thanks a lot.

Do you think with a package weight just under 2000 lbs I should be fine? I’m assuming that is with the 90 Yamaha already in it.

@jimim

Just be sure whatever hitch you buy, you buy it from somewhere that accepts returns and you pay no return shipping charges.. This way you can look over and etc. and decide if the hitch is right/will do the deed for you. These things are heavy..

Buy from Amazon so I can take a looksee and if no good for me I can return easily and at no cost to me.

Here is the 10" drop hitch/Aluminum, I am using on a Rubi , JL with tow package and stock KO2's.
Nice hitch sticks out enough. It is a real heavy hitch ...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XK3OUVO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

61CKyQ+GY+L._AC_SL1316_.jpg
 
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jimim

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Guessing an 1810 Sportsman based on the weight? Just googling, may be a little tight on a short hitch:
1630338192405.png


Remember you need enough for rotation for turns.

I have an I/O, but not sure if a transom saver (outboard trailer prop) may be worth picking op.

Shorter trailers react faster to steering input, that's probably why you're having an easier time with the longer ones. Remember to use slow/gradual changes in steering and it will probably help you out. The short wheelbase of the jeep makes it even quicker. You'll get the hang of it, I've slipped for years at this point and I have to knock the rust off a little when I pull it for the season.
My buddy has a triton so he wants me to look at a ranger to compare to the g3. Triton only makes glass anymore so ranger is the closest to an aluminum triton so pretty much tracker as you.
 
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jimim

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@jimim

Just be sure whatever hitch you buy, you buy it from somewhere that accepts returns and you pay no return shipping charges.. This way you can look over and etc. and decide if the hitch is right/will do the deed for you. These things are heavy..

Buy from Amazon so I can take a looksee and if no good for me I can return easily and at no cost to me.

Here is the 10" drop hitch/Aluminum, I am using on a Rubi , JL with tow package and stock KO2's.
Nice hitch sticks out enough. It is a real heavy hitch ...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XK3OUVO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

61CKyQ+GY+L._AC_SL1316_.jpg
Yo perfect so it has a 2 inch ball. I’m just leveled out so not much higher than stock. They said Ball is at 20 inches so with the 10 inch adjustment I should be ok you think being in stock pretty much like you?

Anything else I will need to tow. No right. Just hitch up plug in and go. Trailer doesn’t have brakes control so nothing to do there.
 
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