Top mistakes since buying your Jeep

[CarbonSteel]

There were a few "re-do's" because I changed the direction I was going in or circumstances changed:

1. Installed a 2.5" MC lift kit because I thought that I would stay with 35's. I have the 3.5" MC springs to be installed, but I do like the "stuffed" look with the 2.5" lift and 37's so waffling on this.

2. Installed the Mopar tailgate reinforcement and spare tire relocation kit instead of buying my CavFab from the start.

3. Installed 35's and went to 37's after the lift.

4. Installed the Synergy sector brace which is a seriously piss poor design. Ended up cutting off the ears for the bearing and used it as a trackbar brace only.

5. Regeared to 4.88 because I intended to stay with 35's. With 37's it was "ok" at sea level, but not at 7K ASL. Regeared to 5.13 and am happy with it. I should have re-geared to 5.13 from the start, but then again, the shitty work that Jeep Slop Shop did on the 4.88 re-gear would not have been found until the axle grenaded.

6. Installed the shitty tow loops from @Maximus-3 which cannot safely be used to tow without a add-on kit they never mentioned or sold at the time. They also redesigned the thickness, but did nothing for the people who bought the thinner ones They know it's a problem and do not stand behind their products.

7. Bought MC front and rear differential covers and skids without taking into account they were cast iron so installing my axle temperature gauges would not be easy or really possible. I installed @Motobilt covers and @NextVenture skids instead.

A few other miscellaneous things I fail to recall now. With all of that said, I am very happy with my Jeep and it was a good learning experience.

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[Zero_Accel]

How much are your lockers? .... I paid 43k for my Sport S JT and 47k for my wifes Sport S JL ... Rubicons were listed between 56-59k ... you can regear w/ lockers multiple times for that $ difference

Sorry, I meant that the overall amount I've put in, paid 43 TTL for my Sport, my dad got his JTR for 53 TTL (told him he stole that truck!)

His JTR only needed a winch, it came with the lift, wheel/tires, and steel bumpers. Fully optioned minus the active safety group. Came with LED's, bedliner, leather, the works.

I've added bed liner, underbelly skids, Mojave take off shocks with fox stabilizer, APEX swaybar disonnects, steel rear bumper and corner protection, rockhard sliders, LED head and tails, and regeared to 4.88. Around 8.5K. If I wanted lockers, ARB air plus air source and switch for lockers, at least 2.8 K. That would put me at 10K in mods.

Around the same price as my dad's JTR, except I could have gotten better axles, the nicer hood and taller fenders, leather, the larger 8.4" radio instead of my 7", everything covered by issuance, and better resale. The only thing I would 'lose' would be the underbelly skids.

I got stuck in that mental space, would I have been happier with a modestly upgraded Rubicon, or a heavily modified Sport?

One thing that I can say for sure, is I've definitely made the truck mine, and I don't think I could give it up!

 

[Traveller128]

I've owned my JLUR 4xe for almost a year now. Early on I saw a YouTube video explaining how to paint your vehicle's brake calipers. It was quite well done. I thought blue calipers to match the blue 4xe highlights would look good (couldn't find paint that perfectly matched though). I thought I did a good prep job. I thought they came out looking nice.

However, it wasn't long before the paint started chipping. I touched up the spots at first but the chipping continued and they started to look bad. Also, when rotating tires it is easy to inadvertently bump the calipers with the wheel, causing further chips.

I finally borrowed a dremel tool to remove as much of the paint as possible (about 85-90%). It took forever and was very tedious and there are still some crevices I cannot get to. That's my top mistake... so far!

See, they don't look so bad, but... lesson learned!

Only caliper paint I'll use is the G2 brand. It's a two part epoxy paint. Mix the paint with the activator, then put on 3-4 coats. It has a working time of 45 minutes to an hour, so you want everything clean, masked, and ready to paint when you mix. I use one "kit" per axle typically.

For your 4XE, G2 makes a Grabber Blue color for the Mustang (had one) that would just about be a perfect match for the accents. It's a custom order color, just have to ask for it. It looked like new after 3 years of use, and we just traded the car in with it looking fresh still.

I've used G2 on other vehicles, and it has been by far the most durable caliper paint I've used. Word of warning though, once you've made the choice to use it, it doesn't come off easily. It's like putting two part epoxy onto anything. Pretty much have to grind it off if you want it off.

 

[nbonzey]

I can't really think of much else post-purchase. I have some regrets from the purchase (should've skipped steel bumpers, mopar headliner) since I replaced them..

I have a delivery coming in a couple weeks with the steel bumpers. What don't you like about them?

 

[Bulletbill]

Just bought tube doors two weeks ago during 4WP sale. They are still in the box and I’m considering returning them for a multitude of reasons.

1. I live in a state where doors off is illegal. I thought I could circumnavigate the law with tube doors but after some further research I found out that the tube doors would have to be OE. In other threads people have said getting pulled over is totally subjective by the cop. But still a major pain in the butt.

2. I wanted to get locking storage box for the rear while the doors were off. Unfortunately I have a rear seat recline kit. I emailed different suppliers and none of there kits are compatible with the recline kit.

3. I have two kids. The nine year old isn’t the most cautious. She like to play soccer and volleyball in the garage. I have visions in my head of her knocking the doors off the wall.

4. I think until I replace the carpet with rubber mats I’m not going to be comfortable taking the doors off and risking rain. I also wouldn’t use them on the trail unless I had the mats as well.

So in the end I’ve all but talked myself into returning them. I’m guessing once my Jeep is a few more years old and I have a few more dents and scratches and a little less care that I may try again. In particular because I’m set to retire in the next 3 years and I can move to a state where there are no laws about the doors. So yeah, tube doors = my biggest mistake so far.

 

[swozey]

I have a delivery coming in a couple weeks with the steel bumpers. What don't you like about them?

It's great and I love the fact that you can stubby it. I'm just replacing it with an LOD so it was kind of money wasted if I don't sell it.

 

[Some Random Guy]

1) Not buying the Rubicon.
2) Not protecting the doors while using an electric wrench to remove the hinge bolts. Got a big scratch.

If you are gonna go offroad just get a Rubicon, it is a really good deal. Sure a sport can take tough trails and you can modify it slowly to be extremely capable. But the little extra you pay for a Rubicon vs. a high trim sport is way worth it. No regrets at this point though. It was the right financial decision at the time and I've learned a lot modifying my sport.

100% agree with you about an optioned Sport S vs Rubicon, but I think when you compare a stripper sport to a Rubicon it comes down to a case-by-case comparison. The stripper sport made sense for me so I traded my optioned Rubicon 4 door rather than go through axle upgrades for the Rubicon. But this is not a primary vehicle for me, so full floats and a transfer case swap are in the plan. Any build sticking within the parameters of the Advantek-44’s makes a lot more sense to just stay Rubicon.

 

[Mtrctylarry]

Sometime function over fashion is the name of the game. Mudflaps look much cooler than the side of your Jeep sandblasted, dinged and buckshot with stones.

Sometime function over fashion is the name of the game. Mudflaps look much cooler than the side of your Jeep sandblasted, dinged and buckshot with stones.

Totally agree. Rockblokz front only.

 

[OldBlue]

Going through 2 different axle-back exhaust systems before just spending the $$ on the MagnaFlow. At least I became an expert exhaust removal/installation person!

 

[word302]

I have a delivery coming in a couple weeks with the steel bumpers. What don't you like about them?

The front is ok, won’t hold up to serious bashing. The rear is hot garbage. For less than the price of the factory steel you can get a really nice aftermarket front bumper. You’ll want to replace the rear either way.

 

[Super]

Thinking that I could make it through the first month without chipping the front window.

 

[40Caliber]

not buying my first jeep sooner..... I am 58

 

[gato]

Not getting a proper thru-shaft or good pressurized (e.g. AEV) steering stabilizer from the get go.

Putting the AEV stabilizer (first) then moving to Fox TS (because of slight interference between AEV and tie-rod), completely transformed how the Jeep behaves when hitting bumps/expansion-joints/etc. All hints of bump steer and shimmy gone. And I do mean ALL.



P.S. I know know if the "Steering Stabilizer does not resolve shimmy/wobble" mantra was ever true, but it certainly is not true in the JL electric power steering era.

 

[Shibadog]

Truth be said, the Jeep on 35s is a beast on the trails. Nothing phases it. But those instances are few and far between compared to driving the Jeep day-in and day-out around town.

And that is a huge point! Most NEW Jeeps will see far more street miles than they ever will off road miles. If someone is setting up a rock crawler and that is where it will spend 90% of its time that’s one thing-if it’s driven they way most folks do, that’s another thing entirely. Lots of folks have to have “the look” (and it’s their $$ so who cares). My only issue is folks who are new to Jeep being talked into high $$ mods because they think they have to have them to leave a paved road-and that just isn’t the case..

 

[Mikester86]

And that is a huge point! Most NEW Jeeps will see far more street miles than they ever will off road miles. If someone is setting up a rock crawler and that is where it will spend 90% of its time that’s one thing-if it’s driven they way most folks do, that’s another thing entirely. Lots of folks have to have “the look” (and it’s their $$ so who cares). My only issue is folks who are new to Jeep being talked into high $$ mods because they think they have to have them to leave a paved road-and that just isn’t the case..

Agree 100%. I was really contemplating a 2” lift and 35’s for my 2 door Rubicon. As much as I would like it, with fuel prices, tire prices and lift prices as they are, I’m going to rock out with the stock out for now. The Michigan wheeling I do, I should have zero issues as it sits in stock form. It’s my daily driver as well, so it spends the majority of its time on pavement.
It’s a juggling act and honest decision need to be made sometimes. All bets are off once I hit the lottery, LMAO!

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