To lift or not to lift (now)?

[kej]

Hi, I have a 2021 JLUR which was meant to replace my 2007 JK as my Lake Tahoe vehicle. The plan was to leave the JLUR stock for 1 year to learn its strengths & weaknesses, then modify it next spring. So far I love the stock JLUR both on and off road but it scrapes lots of rocks the 2dr JK cleared.

The original thinking was to add a 2” Dynatrac lift, 37’s, skid plates, and a winch next spring. But I decided a 2.5” MK GC lift might be better suited for the Sierras and to clear 37’s. I drive mainly fire roads but you need to clear rocks in the Sierras. I also do some moderate wheeling with the local 4WD club (who recommend the 3.5” MK or RK lifts with 37’s) and was hoping to step up my wheeling with the JLUR.

But now the plan has changed. We just sold my wife’s DD today, my wife gets my DD, and the JLUR will be my DD for the next year or two before moving to Lake Tahoe. So I don’t want to do anything that makes it worse on the road, especially since I need to drive 175 miles just to get to/from where I like to wheel. I have CloakWorks adding UnderCloak skids to the JLUR Friday. And I am trying to decide if I should:

• Leave the JLUR stock while it is my DD, maybe keep the JK longer, and decide what else to do when we buy a new car;
• Put 315/70/R17 KO2’s on the JLUR stock wheels and perhaps a budget boast to do some moderate wheeling now without ruining its abilities as a DD (or spending a lot of money). Do more as I need/want it; or
• Leave it stock until spring as originally planned then add a MK lift and tires even though it will still be my DD for another year or two.

I keep changing my mind every day and would appreciate some other opinions to confuse me more.

I would also appreciate thoughts re running 35’s vs 37’s and the 2.5” MK GC vs 3.5” in the Sierras. I would likely stay with KO2’s as I like the way the handle on and off the road as well as the lighter weight on the axles. Not planning on re-gearing. To date my wheeling has been mild to moderate but I want to do more with the JK.

Thanks for you thoughts / opinions.

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[Some Random Guy]

I vote for 35’s and a budget (spacer?) lift to hold on until you’re ready to go all the way. You might even be fine with a leveling kit and the 315/70r17’s, all depends on if a touch of rubbing only when doing harder wheeling bothers you.

 

[jlang]

Hi, I have a 2021 JLUR which was meant to replace my 2007 JK as my Lake Tahoe vehicle. The plan was to leave the JLUR stock for 1 year to learn its strengths & weaknesses, then modify it next spring. So far I love the stock JLUR both on and off road but it scrapes lots of rocks the 2dr JK cleared.

The original thinking was to add a 2” Dynatrac lift, 37’s, skid plates, and a winch next spring. But I decided a 2.5” MK GC lift might be better suited for the Sierras and to clear 37’s. I drive mainly fire roads but you need to clear rocks in the Sierras. I also do some moderate wheeling with the local 4WD club (who recommend the 3.5” MK or RK lifts with 37’s) and was hoping to step up my wheeling with the JLUR.

But now the plan has changed. We just sold my wife’s DD today, my wife gets my DD, and the JLUR will be my DD for the next year or two before moving to Lake Tahoe. So I don’t want to do anything that makes it worse on the road, especially since I need to drive 175 miles just to get to/from where I like to wheel. I have CloakWorks adding UnderCloak skids to the JLUR Friday. And I am trying to decide if I should:

• Leave the JLUR stock while it is my DD, maybe keep the JK longer, and decide what else to do when we buy a new car;
• Put 315/70/R17 KO2’s on the JLUR stock wheels and perhaps a budget boast to do some moderate wheeling now without ruining its abilities as a DD (or spending a lot of money). Do more as I need/want it; or
• Leave it stock until spring as originally planned then add a MK lift and tires even though it will still be my DD for another year or two.

I keep changing my mind every day and would appreciate some other opinions to confuse me more.

I would also appreciate thoughts re running 35’s vs 37’s and the 2.5” MK GC vs 3.5” in the Sierras. I would likely stay with KO2’s as I like the way the handle on and off the road as well as the lighter weight on the axles. Not planning on re-gearing. To date my wheeling has been mild to moderate but I want to do more with the JK.

Thanks for you thoughts / opinions.

I said the same thing. Leave it stock for awhile. Pff...didnt last a week

 

[oceanblue2019]

Hi, I have a 2021 JLUR which was meant to replace my 2007 JK as my Lake Tahoe vehicle. The plan was to leave the JLUR stock for 1 year to learn its strengths & weaknesses, then modify it next spring. So far I love the stock JLUR both on and off road but it scrapes lots of rocks the 2dr JK cleared.

The original thinking was to add a 2” Dynatrac lift, 37’s, skid plates, and a winch next spring. But I decided a 2.5” MK GC lift might be better suited for the Sierras and to clear 37’s. I drive mainly fire roads but you need to clear rocks in the Sierras. I also do some moderate wheeling with the local 4WD club (who recommend the 3.5” MK or RK lifts with 37’s) and was hoping to step up my wheeling with the JLUR.

But now the plan has changed. We just sold my wife’s DD today, my wife gets my DD, and the JLUR will be my DD for the next year or two before moving to Lake Tahoe. So I don’t want to do anything that makes it worse on the road, especially since I need to drive 175 miles just to get to/from where I like to wheel. I have CloakWorks adding UnderCloak skids to the JLUR Friday. And I am trying to decide if I should:

• Leave the JLUR stock while it is my DD, maybe keep the JK longer, and decide what else to do when we buy a new car;
• Put 315/70/R17 KO2’s on the JLUR stock wheels and perhaps a budget boast to do some moderate wheeling now without ruining its abilities as a DD (or spending a lot of money). Do more as I need/want it; or
• Leave it stock until spring as originally planned then add a MK lift and tires even though it will still be my DD for another year or two.

I keep changing my mind every day and would appreciate some other opinions to confuse me more.

I would also appreciate thoughts re running 35’s vs 37’s and the 2.5” MK GC vs 3.5” in the Sierras. I would likely stay with KO2’s as I like the way the handle on and off the road as well as the lighter weight on the axles. Not planning on re-gearing. To date my wheeling has been mild to moderate but I want to do more with the JK.

Thanks for you thoughts / opinions.

First off I would sell the JK asap as right now used vehicles are in short supply and going for silly amounts - just like housing. Take advantage of that!

For the JL I'd drive it stock for a bit. I would also really carefully consider 35's versus 37's for something doing a lot of highway duty unless you are prepared to swap gears.

 

[kej]

First off I would sell the JK asap as right now used vehicles are in short supply and going for silly amounts - just like housing. Take advantage of that!

For the JL I'd drive it stock for a bit. I would also really carefully consider 35's versus 37's for something doing a lot of highway duty unless you are prepared to swap gears.

I'm on the same page as you. Sold my 2007 Sequoia for +$3K more than it was worth a year ago, my wife's 2009 convertible for +$2.5K more than it was worth a year ago, expecting +$3K-4K more than a year ago for the 2007 JK. Altogether $40K (+$10K more than a year ago).

Bought the JLUR for $53K (not great but not terrible) with FCA 3yr 0% financing (can't get better than that). Proceeds from the three 12-14yr old cars will pay for most/all of the new 2021 Jeep. Crazy market.

 

[Jerrybizzle]

Bfg’s run a little small, if you want 37s I’d just get the 37s. If you’re not going to add a ton of weight the 2.5 inch lift will be sufficient. If you’re going to add a lot of weight go for the 3.5.

 

[kej]

Bfg’s run a little small, if you want 37s I’d just get the 37s. If you’re not going to add a ton of weight the 2.5 inch lift will be sufficient. If you’re going to add a lot of weight go for the 3.5.

I know the 35 and 37 KO2's are -0.6" less.

But they do great on the road as a DD. Seem to work adequately off road where I wheel. And are lighter for the axles and tailgate. I don't want/need a 90lb MT.

I have steel bumpers, adding full UnderCloak Friday, a winch in the future. So I do have some weight.

That said, I am open to other suggestions that meet the same criteria.

 

[Roky]

Hi, I have a 2021 JLUR which was meant to replace my 2007 JK as my Lake Tahoe vehicle. The plan was to leave the JLUR stock for 1 year to learn its strengths & weaknesses, then modify it next spring. So far I love the stock JLUR both on and off road but it scrapes lots of rocks the 2dr JK cleared.

The original thinking was to add a 2” Dynatrac lift, 37’s, skid plates, and a winch next spring. But I decided a 2.5” MK GC lift might be better suited for the Sierras and to clear 37’s. I drive mainly fire roads but you need to clear rocks in the Sierras. I also do some moderate wheeling with the local 4WD club (who recommend the 3.5” MK or RK lifts with 37’s) and was hoping to step up my wheeling with the JLUR.

But now the plan has changed. We just sold my wife’s DD today, my wife gets my DD, and the JLUR will be my DD for the next year or two before moving to Lake Tahoe. So I don’t want to do anything that makes it worse on the road, especially since I need to drive 175 miles just to get to/from where I like to wheel. I have CloakWorks adding UnderCloak skids to the JLUR Friday. And I am trying to decide if I should:

• Leave the JLUR stock while it is my DD, maybe keep the JK longer, and decide what else to do when we buy a new car;
• Put 315/70/R17 KO2’s on the JLUR stock wheels and perhaps a budget boast to do some moderate wheeling now without ruining its abilities as a DD (or spending a lot of money). Do more as I need/want it; or
• Leave it stock until spring as originally planned then add a MK lift and tires even though it will still be my DD for another year or two.

I keep changing my mind every day and would appreciate some other opinions to confuse me more.

I would also appreciate thoughts re running 35’s vs 37’s and the 2.5” MK GC vs 3.5” in the Sierras. I would likely stay with KO2’s as I like the way the handle on and off the road as well as the lighter weight on the axles. Not planning on re-gearing. To date my wheeling has been mild to moderate but I want to do more with the JK.

Thanks for you thoughts / opinions.

My suggestion is, if you go with 37s then upgrade your steering the same time you do lift and tires. Be preemptive. I’ve seen so many guys put on a lift and 37s but leave their stock tie rod, drag link, etc. on and complain about how shitty it handles /steers.

The fact is, it’s not your grandpas lifts anymore. The shocks, springs, control arms, steering linkages, etc.... are so much better now then they were even just a few years ago.
You can definitely DD a 3.5” lift on 37s and it will drive better than most stockers. I would jump in mine and drive it across country without a second thought.

But it’s not gonna be cheap to get it that way, I ain’t gonna lie. But totally worth it....

 

[kej]

But it’s not gonna be cheap to get it that way, I ain’t gonna lie. But totally worth it....

I'm more concerned about getting it right than the cost (within reason). I hope to keep the JLUR for a while.

On my 2dr JK Sport, I just added JKUR take off wheels, tires, shocks, and springs. Then skids and sliders. Was able to have a lot of fun on fire road & mild/moderate trails with that lightly modified setup.

But I want to build out the JLUR right to do more off road while maintaining on road performance. This is the first Jeep I have lifted and I don't know what besides the lift kit I need to add.

Perhaps a good reason to leave it stock for now. Or start with 315/70/R17's and a budget boast which should not cost that much. Also selling my 285/70/R17's while they have less than 2k miles and are still worth something.

 

[Fsttanks]

Since you are already “up armoring” your belly I would go with a 1-1.5” BB, 35” KO2 or 35” MIckeyThompson Baja Boss AT tires (for their tougher sidewalls and slightly more aggressive AT tread design). Also I would go with a set of longer travel shocks to take full advantage of the BB.

 

[broncoguy]

I pretty much did exactly what you are thinking....A 2.5" RC spacer lift, mopar LCA's and 315/70/17 KO2 with some armor underneath. Have wheeled all over including the Sierras and some of the Rubicon.

It's a DD and drives very good. Eventually I'll probably upgrade the lift but it wheels just fine as-is.

 

[gato]

I don't understand the point of doing a spacer lift now, then a full lift in one year or so.

It's virtually the same amount of work to add a spacer as a spring lift. Majority of the work is pulling everything apart to replace the spring or insert the spacer on top of the spring. Might as well pull the trigger and do a proper spring lift. Do it once, do it right, do it soon.

Else, you will always be second guessing yourself about doing the lift.

If you are wheeling with your club, the best thing is to lift it at least to the average of the other Jeeps in the club - it will make your trips a lot more pleasurable.

 

[kej]

I don't understand the point of doing a spacer lift now, then a full lift in one year or so.

It's virtually the same amount of work to add a spacer as a spring lift. Majority of the work is pulling everything apart to replace the spring or insert the spacer on top of the spring. Might as well pull the trigger and do a proper spring lift. Do it once, do it right, do it soon.

Else, you will always be second guessing yourself about doing the lift.

If you are wheeling with your club, the best thing is to lift it at least to the average of the other Jeeps in the club - it will make your trips a lot more pleasurable.

The idea (correct or incorrect) is to do something now that will slightly improve off road performance, not hurt on road performance while it is a DD, and not cost a lot of money.

More specifically replace the stock 33's with identical 35's, add a small spring spacer lift so the 35's won't rub off road, and sell the 33's while they are worth something. Gain 2" or so of lift now. Do more later when it is not a DD.

But if I need to add stock extenders, bumpstops, LCA's, or other parts to accomplish this you might be right that it should all be done at once. I've never lifted a Jeep before and thought that when the 315/70/R17 tires were mounted with the stock wheels the installer could easily & inexpensively add the smallest spacer lift that is needed to stop rubbing.

 

[Some Random Guy]

But if I need to add stock extenders, bumpstops, LCA's, or other parts to accomplish this you might be right that it should all be done at once. I've never lifted a Jeep before and thought that when the 315/70/R17 tires were mounted with the stock wheels the installer could easily & inexpensively add the smallest spacer lift that is needed to stop rubbing.

Because you’re planning a proper build for next year, I think you’re fine with leveling kit or super cheap spacer lift for 1 year.
If cheap spacers and bumpstops are your permanent answer for 37” plus tires, that’s when you’re in trouble.

 

[gato]

The idea (correct or incorrect) is to do something now that will slightly improve off road performance, not hurt on road performance while it is a DD, and not cost a lot of money.

Are you installing it yourself? If so, do yourself a favor and put a spring lift on it. The only thing that takes work is changing the spring or adding a spacer - same amount of work either way. Everything else is easy to do/add/upgrade after the fact.

Putting a spacer without changing control arms, shocks, sway bar end links will make on-road driving worse - less caster = more wandering, less shock travel = bottom out sooner, more wound sway bars = harsher ride.

Do a simple Mopar lift = reduced warranty hassle, decent road manners, space for 35s or 37s, add track bars at your leisure to make it even better. No alignment needed. Simple. Same amount of work as installing a spacer lift, since pulling the springs is where 90% of the work is.

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