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To Knurl or Not to Knurl... That is Just One of the Questions!

Astro Jeep

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I am finally getting around to modding my JLURD, and I decided to go down the route of "pay once, cry once."

A little background first. I sold my house, and I am currently selling off my business assets and shutting down the business, and I am going camping with my dog for at least the next two years. I plan on staying at National Parks, and out in the Bureau of Land Management areas out west. I will be doing some crawling, but mostly I just want to explore off the beaten path. Eventually, I want to go north of the Arctic Circle and camp under the Northern Lights. So my mods need to get me out and back with a low chance of catastrophic failure. The list of things I need to do to live comfortably is a mile long so I will keep this short.

My first mod is to replace the aluminum knuckles, and while I am at it the ball joints. While money is an object it is less so for this mod. Since I am mechanically inclined I am going to do the replacement myself. I have never replaced a ball joint, but after watching a few videos on it it is well within my skillset.

Question: There are ball joints with knurls, and there are ball joints without knurls. Both kind are listed as compatible with my Jeep. What does the knurl do, and more importantly which one should I get?

Question: There are knuckles with flipped drag links and without. I am pretty sure I want the flipped knuckles to get that extra 4 inches of clearance for the drag link. I know that I have to get a lift that will accommodate the flipped link if I go that route. I am planning on getting a Clayton 2.5" lift anyway, but is having a flipped link really worth it?

Question: Because I am the type of guy that will reason that a 300HP lawn mower is better than a 5HP lawn mower I am really lusting for a 3.5" lift. I know in my gut that the 2.5" lift is better suited for what I need to do, but is it true that with a 3.5" lift I would need a new forward drive shaft?

Thanks in advance!
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Astro Jeep

Astro Jeep

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This answers my first question! Non-knurled it is!
 

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I am finally getting around to modding my JLURD, and I decided to go down the route of "pay once, cry once."

My first mod is to replace the aluminum knuckles, and while I am at it the ball joints. While money is an object it is less so for this mod. Since I am mechanically inclined I am going to do the replacement myself. I have never replaced a ball joint, but after watching a few videos on it it is well within my skillset.

Question: There are ball joints with knurls, and there are ball joints without knurls. Both kind are listed as compatible with my Jeep. What does the knurl do, and more importantly which one should I get? You do not need knurled ball joints on a new steering knuckle. They are typically used when the knuckle is worn or egg-shaped. I dumped my aluminum knuckles for Mojave's.

Question: There are knuckles with flipped drag links and without. I am pretty sure I want the flipped knuckles to get that extra 4 inches of clearance for the drag link. I know that I have to get a lift that will accommodate the flipped link if I go that route. I am planning on getting a Clayton 2.5" lift anyway, but is having a flipped link really worth it? I am running a 2.5" Metal Cloak lift (and will soon move to a 3.5") a flipped drag link is not needed.

Question: Because I am the type of guy that will reason that a 300HP lawn mower is better than a 5HP lawn mower I am really lusting for a 3.5" lift. I know in my gut that the 2.5" lift is better suited for what I need to do, but is it true that with a 3.5" lift I would need a new forward drive shaft? You will need a new driveshaft with a 2.5" lift (at least I did with Metal Cloak) so you will almost assuredly need one with a 3.5" lift.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Thank you for the response. Hell, if I have to get a new drive shaft for a 2.5" lift I might as well just get the 3.5" lift and be done with it!
 

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I believe the flipped knuckle will cause steering issues with 2.5” or even 3.5” lift.

The different drive shaft is due to droop. The factory shaft will bind at droop with a 2.5” lift so for sure with a 3.5” lift.
 

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Thank you for the response. Hell, if I have to get a new drive shaft for a 2.5" lift I might as well just get the 3.5" lift and be done with it!
Take it from someone who has done a few things "twice"--if you are even thinking about it, just go for it and don't look back.
 
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Astro Jeep

Astro Jeep

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I believe the flipped knuckle will cause steering issues with 2.5” or even 3.5” lift.

The different drive shaft is due to droop. The factory shaft will bind at droop with a 2.5” lift so for sure with a 3.5” lift.
That is good to know, and will save me money! Thank you!
 
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Astro Jeep

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Thank You! I was trying to avoid that drive shaft issue, but screw it! Do you have a recommendation on a manufacture? I haven't even begun to think about DS's until now.
 

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Thank You! I was trying to avoid that drive shaft issue, but screw it! Do you have a recommendation on a manufacture? I haven't even begun to think about DS's until now.
Adam's is typically regarded as one of the best. I went all Metal Cloak on my setup.
 
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Adam's is typically regarded as one of the best. I went all Metal Cloak on.my setup.
I'll look into both. I know Metalcloak makes good stuff.
 

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Don’t flip. It limits uptravel. Front DS issues can be mitigated with geometry brackets or a long arm kit, but it sounds like an aftermarket DS is your best bet. Then you don’t have to worry.
As for lift size, I think you should figure out tire size first. Then lift will answer itself. Get what you meed to clear it. Tire size may necessitate gear changes or axle swaps. Stick with 37” and you should be good if you’re not driving wild.
 
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Don’t flip. It limits uptravel. Front DS issues can be mitigated with geometry brackets or a long arm kit, but it sounds like an aftermarket DS is your best bet. Then you don’t have to worry.
As for lift size, I think you should figure out tire size first. Then lift will answer itself. Get what you meed to clear it. Tire size may necessitate gear changes or axle swaps. Stick with 37” and you should be good if you’re not driving wild.
Definitely not flipping. I am thinking a complete DS replacement is the way to go as well.

I am on the fence between 35s and 37s. Mainly because 35s can be had and 37s (at least concerning Nittos MTs) seem to be on back order everywhere I look. Now that I am going with a DS replacement I am definitely going with a 3.5" lift. I guess I'll be waiting on the 37s, lol. I am not a wild driver. Slow and steady is the name of my game.
 

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Thank You! I was trying to avoid that drive shaft issue, but screw it! Do you have a recommendation on a manufacture? I haven't even begun to think about DS's until now.
Adams will build you a custom shaft to your exact specs. If you’re on facebook reach out to them there. He offered me a discount when I’m ready to order.
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