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Thoughts? JLR 2-dr 6sp Suspension

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Lot’s of thoughts and opinions around, and welcome some more on this build:

Vehicle: 2020, JL rubicon 2 door with a manual gearbox & soft top. Steel bumpers with 10k warn wich installed (added ~100lbs to the front).

Use: Secondary vehicle (not a daily driver) used for running around town with the family and off-road parks. Road manners are important in order to have easy 3-6hr drives to off-road trip locations (upper peninsula Michigan, southern Appalachians). May drive to Moab, but would like trailer for that type of trip. Home location is the Great Lakes, so will be in the snow / salt during winter. Most wheeling will be trails as there is not a ton of rock crawling near me.

Objective: Balance road manners with wheeling capabilities (keep center of gravity low and weight as light as possible). “Sleeper” appearance more “factory” than aftermarket or custom.

Proposed approach:
-Metalcloak 2.5 Gamer Changer (also considering Icon Stage 8, but like the joint design of MC for better expected dampening of high-frequency road bumps)
-wheels: 35” BFG KM3 MT; load rating E; on wheels, torn between stock rubi (lighter, looks stock, but use spacer) or Mopar bead-lock capable
-Shocks: Fox 2.5 adjustable (really like adjustability) or 6pak (not sure I really need this much articulation)
-Driveshaft: not sure I’ll ever / often flex enough to be a problem, but leaning towards replacing per MC recommendation “while I’m at it....”
-Steering: torn on this one as well; not sure 35s warrant the change, but want to do it right. Considering MC‘s upgrade as well
-Skid plates: I don’t like the exposed cross members of the the stock frame and want to add a little protection. Considering MCs under armor, but want to keep the weight down as well as not have a rusty mess in 5 years. Not sure if aluminum options are that much lighter.

Any feedback and experiences on this potential build greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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RedundanT

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MC lift be a good choice, would consider Clayton Overland as an option. Fox shocks be great, unless you just want adjustability then the 2.0 would be fine and cheaper. I question your tire choice if your driving 3-6 hours to a trail, an all terrain might be better. Driveshaft is a definite yes. Steering can be replaced when it goes as it will hold up ok with 35's for trail use, 37's and rock bashing is another matter. Skid plate I'd look at the Quadratec aluminum or steel, good quality for the price. HTH
 

Krondor

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I am on MC's 2.5" Game Changer using their RockSport shocks. I also have the Warn 10k Zeon winch and Warn mounting plate that added more like 125lbs or so.
  • Excellent comfort as you pointed out due to the joints. The flex will require that you get at least a front drive shaft but really you should look to replace both.
  • I also want an adjustable shock setup for a bit more control. Soft and squishy for comfort and turned up to firm for control when needed.
  • Highly recommended, though it does lift your Jeep enough to make the tires look smaller. I'd have preferred less lift but it does allow for more travel and that's a good thing.

My tires are BFG KM3's but are the 315/70R17 and love them. This is my daily driver however, so I'll be looking at more of an All Terrain or hybrid tire next. Given that Michigan has a lot of muddy trails.
  • I've not driven in winter with them yet, but my KM2's were not great in snow. You may benefit more from a all terrain or hybrid.

I have an EVO skid that only added about 30lbs to protect the exhaust bits and oil pan. The rest I left with stock "skid" bars.
  • A lighter option than MC's I do think it will rust before MC's would. I'd actually like an aluminum option as well for more coverage.
  • Changing oil is a messy ordeal, so you may want also get a new drain plug. I still need to do the same.

I bought the SteerSmarts setup before MC had an option available, but I'd recommend a beefier Tie Rod and Drag Link to go with your heavier tires. Though it can also be done after you break the stock (lighter) bits.


Those are my thoughts. I look forward to the feedback you get from others as well.
 
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CooterCountryRacing
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Gents, many thanks for the thoughts and experiences. I was out over the weekend here in Michigan and confirmed mud-tires are a must (I'm on factory option Falken MT 33"). Got high-sided in a bog, but was able to get myself out without support (the upside: my daughter loved the mud flying over the jeep during the back & forth; pretty funny).

Kondor:
- Did you re-gear after going to 35s? Curious about performance with the 6sp, particularly off-road (i.e: is 1st gear in low still low enough...)
 

Krondor

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Gents, many thanks for the thoughts and experiences. I was out over the weekend here in Michigan and confirmed mud-tires are a must (I'm on factory option Falken MT 33"). Got high-sided in a bog, but was able to get myself out without support (the upside: my daughter loved the mud flying over the jeep during the back & forth; pretty funny).

Kondor:
- Did you re-gear after going to 35s? Curious about performance with the 6sp, particularly off-road (i.e: is 1st gear in low still low enough...)
I have not re-geared yet. The 4.10's are not overly taxed by the move to 35's, but I still plan to go to 4.88's mostly to help with going up the passes. They will also let me gain a bit more finesse on steeper obstacles. We could really have used a crawler gear. IMHO

I spend a lot of time in 4-low and 2nd/3rd gear on the trails. With 4.88's I may well do most of them in 4-high and 1st /2nd gear.

I don't do bogs, but I would think that more wheel speed would be the ticket there. I also think the KM3's would do just fine.
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