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Those who went from 33s to 35s...

Upnarms

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I'm looking for feedback from those who have run stock 33s with the v6 (or the 2.0 i suppose) with 8spd auto and went to 35s. Preferably somebody who ran the 33s long enough to make a good comparison.

Was the acceleration change noticeable? Could you feel the extra weight? Gas mileage drastically different? Any other thoughts?

I guess I like the looks of the 35s and the extra clearance, but the weight concerns me. I have a rhinorack bb w pioneer platform, rtt, and tow a 1500lb trailer up the mountains. It's not that the jeep can't handle it, just the more weight I pile on, performance may suffer.

Looks like it's 10lbs more a tire but then factor in the rotational force of that extra 10lbs x4.

I currently have a jlur with the 4:10s and have no desire to pay for a regear.

Anyone who has experience with this change care to comment?

Thanks!
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kre62

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i can tell you tomorrow. 33k miles on my JLUR with 33s, going to 35x12.5 on stock rims.
 
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Upnarms

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i can tell you tomorrow. 33k miles on my JLUR with 33s, going to 35x12.5 on stock rims.
Sweet, that would be good to know!
 

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I swapped to 35’s from 33s. Generally positive, gave up about 1.5 MPGs on average. Handling is good, no issues with acceleration, my butt sensor feels a bit of extra heft from the tires, love the look and extra height. But damn the tires were expensive - $1800 installed for 5. Nitto Ridge Grapplers vs OEM K02s.
 

Frezski

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A lot of factors involved. Dumped the factory rubi wheel and tire combo, added a ton of weight with other mods but the thing I noticed the most was the move to 35" trail grapplers. They run kinda heavy from the start, and they are on beadlocks. So wheel/tire combo is going to be heavy with lots of rolling resistance. I already have the issue of no 8th gear at highway speeds unless I am down hill. City driving I have lost 1 mpg. Highway road trips overall I use to get 19-20ish now at 16-17 if I am lucky. Again its pretty much staying in 7th. Stop and go and acceleration on the butt dyno hasn't changed much at all. It must be the 8spd ratios. Oh its also the 6 cylinder.
 

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Upnarms

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A lot of factors involved. Dumped the factory rubi wheel and tire combo, added a ton of weight with other mods but the thing I noticed the most was the move to 35" trail grapplers. They run kinda heavy from the start, and they are on beadlocks. So wheel/tire combo is going to be heavy with lots of rolling resistance. I already have the issue of no 8th gear at highway speeds unless I am down hill. City driving I have lost 1 mpg. Highway road trips overall I use to get 19-20ish now at 16-17 if I am lucky. Again its pretty much staying in 7th. Stop and go and acceleration on the butt dyno hasn't changed much at all. It must be the 8spd ratios. Oh its also the 6 cylinder.
Thanks for your feedback. My rubi only has 3500 miles on it. Ill wait till l the tires are done before thinking about a swap.

Had an 18 sport (jk) and went from mailman 29s to 33s. Dropped to about 15mpg hwy with 3.73 gears. Felt heavy and on mountain grades I would really floor it to keep speed, of course that was with a 5spd auto. Sounds like 35s would be best with a regear even on the 8spd.

When you switched did you have the ecu updated for the 35s with something like a tazer jl or did u just leave it as is?

How is braking?

Thanks again
 

Frezski

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No problem, man. Sometimes forums are a good place to get some feedback. I would wait at least until you get more. There are a lot of guys that are on bone stock JLURs with 35s that can chime in. My set up isn't probably the best example with the choices I have decided to go with and carry no regrets either. Mudders for a tread pattern aren't the best choice for rolling down the road, tire weight, size, and wheel choice will always be a big factor. I wish I had a scale at the time to weigh the difference between the orginals and what is on it now. I have heard people discussing in the past seem to talk about regear after going to 37s. I suppose if you keep your stock wheels you may fair better than me with 35s. Comb the garage section if nobody else adds to this thread and maybe you can get more favorable feed back than what I have provided. I like you, only have 3500ish miles on the odo since I hardly drive mine. My Jeep has been in this configuration since 1200 miles. So far the only advantage with the 8spd is you don't really notice it much for accelerating. Braking is noticeable but not terrible IMO, there is just more mass you're trying to stop. I am use it, so I try and give more time out of caution. I wouldn't be too concerned honestly. I think when I finally do a regear if I keep these axles and move to 37 or larger a brake upgrade would be in the works.

I have a Tazer, but there are a lot of different types of programmers/solutions for calibrating the ECU for tire size should you wish to try out something else.
 

Jerrybizzle

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I went to a lighter 37 (69 pounds) and don’t have any issues with the way it handles them. I don’t see 8th that often unless I’m at 80 or so and then I kick it over to manual mode and hold it in 7th or 8th depending if it can maintain speed. If you leave it in regular auto mode at 70ish it will keep you in sixth with a little of 7th, but manual mode it will hold the speed in 7th no problem. Around town I just leave it in auto mode and have no issues. Would it be nice to regear to 5.13s? Sure, but definitely not necessary and have no plans to. Be very mindful of weights on the tires and I think with a 35 you will be just fine. My wheel and tire setup weighs 95 pounds where some 37s alone are nearly 85 pounds (Toyo).
 

Frezski

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I crack up all the time rolling down the highway. My set up has similar characteristics you describe. Its happy place is 7th, but holy hell at times it loves 6th so much im getting frustrated when it doesn't shift back to 7th going down hill. So I do exactly what you said. Manual mode.
 
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Have you all reprogrammed for the larger tires? I hear that affects shift points too. I assume u have, but curious.

And that does sound like a light tire for a 37! I think 35 bfg ko2s, load e rated, are around 67lbs. Maybe their c rated are a lot lighter. I haven't looked too hard.

After my JK, I'm super weight conscious though that isn't a fair comparison. Towing my little of road trailer, I would be in 2nd gear to stay above 50 and the engine temps would hit the 240s! Surprisingly that 5spd auto never broke 190. My jl 8dpd trans seems to run at 200 for the normal operating range and the engine is in the 220s on the same hills.
 

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I have a tazer for the programming of my 37s.
Mastercraft mxt 37x12.5 17 which were scale verified at 69. Similar tread pattern to cooper stt.
 

Frezski

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I wish I could shed more light into driving before and after I re calibrated ecu for the tire size. I did it right after I mounted them on the JL. So if there was any different feel to the shift points, I wouldn't know first hand. Sorry I can'y help you with that one man.
 

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There are going to be a million different factors with only opinions and not real data that is going to be exactly the same result you will get. First of all is mileage. That number is all over the place even on bone stock identical Jeeps, just go to that thread and you will see.

The acceleration will be different, how can it not be when adding that much weight in rolling mass. The difference is in all the different butt Dynos.

One thing is for sure, they look cool. Good luck in your search but your experience will be different than everyone else’s.
 

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Went from factory 33" set-up to AEV Pintlers with the KO2's in 35". Little added weight. Calibrated size with the AEV snap. No notice in acceleration, MPG, or handling. Rides just fine on the highway.
 
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Upnarms

Upnarms

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Went from factory 33" set-up to AEV Pintlers with the KO2's in 35". Little added weight. Calibrated size with the AEV snap. No notice in acceleration, MPG, or handling. Rides just fine on the highway.
Cool! Factory suspension still? Some have said they lose 8th gear on highway, did u experience this?
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