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DanW

DanW

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Those of you that run oil hot, stay away from Mobil oil, as this oil ware protection significantly reduced at elevated oil temperatures.
Also, contributes to lots of blow by and premature shearing.

Its been well known issue in Genesis community (bad tests and blown engines with Mobil). I have tested it on 3.5 EcoBoost and oil analysis confirmed high ware and excessive blow by, while others (Quaker state) show normal tests. I run my cars hard and hot, and test each oil change 5k intervals.
Oils that offer good ware protection and no premature shearing- Amsoil and Quaker state.
Those of you that run oil hot, stay away from Mobil oil, as this oil ware protection significantly reduced at elevated oil temperatures.
Also, contributes to lots of blow by and premature shearing.

Its been well known issue in Genesis community (bad tests and blown engines with Mobil). I have tested it on 3.5 EcoBoost and oil analysis confirmed high ware and excessive blow by, while others (Quaker state) show normal tests. I run my cars hard and hot, and test each oil change 5k intervals.
Oils that offer good ware protection and no premature shearing- Amsoil and Quaker state.
My experience with M1 doesn't agree with that at all. I've never have had an experience like that with Mobil 1. Depending on which you use, it has among the highest flash points, especially AP or EP.

I've got an Ecoboost that I run 10k every oil change with Mobil 1 EP 5w30. It is severe duty with lots of city driving loaded with people and cargo. The oil has never sheared out of grade and never used a drop. I ran 12k on one OCI and it still didn't show a problem. That's after about 140k miles on nothing but M1 EP.

M1's top oils and some of their "vanilla" M1 oils have significant PAO base stocks. They handle higher temps than Group III or GTL base stocks. They flow at lower temps. They resist oxidation better and can run longer OCI's.

Not sure what's going on with the Genesis community, but I've never once encountered someone ouside of the internet that has had Mobil 1 products fail them in any way. They've certainly served my engines well, including the old 3.8 which is currently at 142k.

Every UOA I've done with Mobil 1 has been good and showed no issues with the oil in UOAs. I can't remember a single one over many years that showed the oil to be out of grade, even slightly, or even close to it.

I had a 99 Chevy Silverado that has run Mobil 1 vanilla 5w30 since new in 98. I sold it to my secretary's husband and he continued the same regimine, with 5k OCI's. That truck is approaching 400k miles and the body is wearing more than the engine. If it were a flawed oil, I doubt we'd see that.

I'll let you know if my Ecoboost ever wears out. It's been fine on M1 EP and will continue to run it, 10k per change. I doubt there are too many engines harder on oil than that one, especially in a city driven people mover like the Transit 350.

I've got several UOA's on my JL's 3.6 with Mobil 1 EP and AP. No issues there, either.
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DanW

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One more thing...Not sure what you are doing with that Ecoboost, but I've never had 39ppm of Iron on a 10k run with Mobil 1. I've never had it shear out of grade like that, either.

Still, those numbers aren't out of whack. Read up on UOAs and what they really tell you. Mobil 1, for awhile, commonly showed slightly higher iron in ppm than other oils, yet we saw many engines going 300k plus on it.

The UOA data suggests to me that you had some fuel in the oil, and that IS an engine/driving pattern issue, not an oil issue. As such, it will shear any oil. Ecoboosts and other DI engines are famous for this, especially if there was a lot of idling. Still, the viscosity it sheared to is fine and one of the reasons DI/Turbo engines are frequently spec-ed for 5w30. The oil did not fail in any way in that report, and Blackstone doesn't flag it as doing so. My guess is that it did alot of idling during that time, but that's just a guess.

Try Mobil 1 EP or AP and see how it does. Vanilla Mobil 1 is mostly Group III base, like Quaker State and others.

But, given the data in your UOAs, while M1 was still serviceable, I'd probably go with whatever showed the best for that particular engine. I still wonder, though why yours is using oil like it is. Mine just doesn't do that. I've actually had two Ecoboosts, and the first didn't do it, either. Both on Mobil 1 all day long.
 

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Blow by was collected via catch can.
Engine design was not an issue, oil that thins out when driven hard is an issue. Mobil oil was the only one that had lost 1 qrt between fill ups on Genesis and had twice the amount collected in catch can on EcoBoost (5w30)

The most standardized test on majority of oils can be found here.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

2,500 mi was Mobil, 6k mi Quaker state. This is on twin turbo 3.5 that is constantly being operated at severe duty.

Screenshot_20200808-111121_Drive.jpg
Every single oil in the list suffered from fuel dilution--which is very characteristic of a DI engine, which the 3.5L Ecoboost definitely is. In addition, Blackstone does not use gas chromatography to measure fuel and therefore, the dilution is higher than what is shown. Sorry, but I see nothing here to show that M1 is not performing as well as the other oils.

What happened at 25,800? The silicon reading is over the top. Also, I would not go to an 8K OCI as suggested; the dilution which facilities shearing and viscosity loss will only continue to rise with more miles. The other thing that you are going to want to do is get a TBN reading to ensure that you have not depleted the additive package.
 

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3,100k is Mobil on Genesis coupe 3.8 (1 year of driving, but ran it hard often )

Screenshot_20200808-113059_Gallery.jpg
Not sure what this is supposed to show about M1 versus other oils. For starters, with a 1 year OCI, I would hazard to guess that you are short tripping the crap out of it. If memory serves, the Hyundai 3.8L is also a DI engine which means (and as clearly shown here) that it has fuel dilution which will be increased by short tripping. On a 1 year OCI, I would want to know what the TBN is so that I could determine if the oil was serviceable for that long or not.
 
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Ok, I got my pliers and vice grips out to get to work on tearing apart the Mobil 1 oil filter. Awhile back, I tore apart a Fram Ultra, and it was a beast. It took a great deal of effort to get it to come apart. I was VERY surprised at just how well the pleats held together. They were backed by a nylon or monofiliment webbing that was bonded to the pleats, which makes them incredibly strong and durable. Here's a pic of the pleats, spread out....
IFXYK3V.jpg


Here they are torn apart.....
MCuaRhC.jpg

I was told on Bitog that the M1 would be better made than the Fram Ultra, because it supposedly had a metal wire mesh backing the pleats, as opposed to the polymer. (I don't know why that would make it better, but that's what some claimed.) Before I go on, I will say the Mobil 1 filter is built well and had no known flaws. It did its job well, too, according to the used oil analysis I did. It is a fine filter and I plan to keep using the remaining 11 or so of them I have in my stash. They do a good job of filtering and hold up just fine to whatever flogging I give the 3.6. But here is what I found. There is nothing backing the pleats. They came apart easily. So mystery solved, and certain Bitogers proved wrong. It is built like most other filters, and not even close to as strong as the Fram Ultra. (Again, that's not a problem.) They did tell me that the top Wix filter also has a mesh backing. I won't be buying or running one, so if someone else has one, please tear it apart and show us what you find. Honestly, I don't see how metal could bond to the media any better than this polymer material. It is SUPER STUCK on there. Impressive. That's one of several reasons it is my favorite filter, overall.
aBQpMjz.jpg
 

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Ok, I got my pliers and vice grips out to get to work on tearing apart the Mobil 1 oil filter. Awhile back, I tore apart a Fram Ultra, and it was a beast. It took a great deal of effort to get it to come apart. I was VERY surprised at just how well the pleats held together. They were backed by a nylon or monofiliment webbing that was bonded to the pleats, which makes them incredibly strong and durable. Here's a pic of the pleats, spread out....
Jeep Wrangler JL The Pentastar Loves to Wring its Filters Out! aBQpMjz


Here they are torn apart.....
Jeep Wrangler JL The Pentastar Loves to Wring its Filters Out! aBQpMjz

I was told on Bitog that the M1 would be better made than the Fram Ultra, because it supposedly had a metal wire mesh backing the pleats, as opposed to the polymer. (I don't know why that would make it better, but that's what some claimed.) Before I go on, I will say the Mobil 1 filter is built well and had no known flaws. It did its job well, too, according to the used oil analysis I did. It is a fine filter and I plan to keep using the remaining 11 or so of them I have in my stash. They do a good job of filtering and hold up just fine to whatever flogging I give the 3.6. But here is what I found. There is nothing backing the pleats. They came apart easily. So mystery solved, and certain Bitogers proved wrong. It is built like most other filters, and not even close to as strong as the Fram Ultra. (Again, that's not a problem.) They did tell me that the top Wix filter also has a mesh backing. I won't be buying or running one, so if someone else has one, please tear it apart and show us what you find. Honestly, I don't see how metal could bond to the media any better than this polymer material. It is SUPER STUCK on there. Impressive. That's one of several reasons it is my favorite filter, overall.
Jeep Wrangler JL The Pentastar Loves to Wring its Filters Out! aBQpMjz
That doesn't seem to give any inherent advantage though, except in the case of the 40,000 mile OCI to prevent collapsing.
 

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That doesn't seem to give any inherent advantage though, except in the case of the 40,000 mile OCI to prevent collapsing.
It will minimize or prevent the twisting that seems to be inherent with Pentastar filters.

@DanW - what is the efficiency rating of the M1 filter?
 

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But that doesn't do anything.
<shrug> I prefer the media not twist which could lead to torn media, but each person has their own tolerance for such things--mine is low. I also prefer the 99.9% @ 20um efficiency of the Ultra over lower efficiency filters.
 

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<shrug> I prefer the media not twist which could lead to torn media, but each person has their own tolerance for such things--mine is low. I also prefer the 99.9% @ 20um efficiency of the Ultra over lower efficiency filters.
Why not WIX, rated at 13?
 

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It will minimize or prevent the twisting that seems to be inherent with Pentastar filters.

@DanW - what is the efficiency rating of the M1 filter?
99% at 30 microns. Fram Ultra is 99+% at 20.

I run the Fram Ultra can filters for 2 OCI's in my JK. That's 12k. According to Fram, it could handle 1 more which would get it to 18k. I just can't do that to my blue baby, though. Lol!
 
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What WIX filter is rated 99.9% @ 13um? None I know of--WIX themselves will tell you it's 40um.
Wix gave me figures and if I recall correctly, it was about like the M1, but something like 95% at 30 microns. It was nowhere near the Fram.
 
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They don't define that and don't cite the standard test. That could mean the smallest particle it can filter is 13 microns. The Fram is purported to filter very well even in the 5 micron range, according to a former Fram engineer on Bitog. I can't remember the percentage, but it was surprisingly high, as I recall. Anyway, Wix told me the number and it was not close to the Fram.

That's not to say the Wix isn't good. Millions of users get long engine life with them.
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