The Parallax - Sting Gray JLUR Build

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Got to do some exploring today as I am still waiting to order the next round of parts

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I posted this in the other thread about the Mopar Satin Black grille. I never noticed until someone pointed out that the black grille looked different around the sides. I found out today that I never swapped over my trim pieces from my original grill. Much better.

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Been a slow couple of weeks. Ordering parts and trying to sort out the build. I did end up ordering the CMM grabhandle ball mount to replace the one I had on there. Fit is much nicer and stays on tight. It is now hella solid. Also my CB radio arrived last week. Ordered the Cool Tech antenna mount kit and waiting on that to arrive so I can set up my radio. After much debate on where to mount my radio, I decided to order the JCR Overhead Molle Rack and mount it overhead. I like the box radio over the all in one handheld like the Cobra 75. So once that overhead rack arrives, I will mount and tune my radio. For now Ill mount the antenna mount and run the coax cable from the back of the jeep to the front. My rock rails should arrive here this week so I will have pics of the install for those. Stock Rubi rails will go up fo sale once they come off. My rim guards for my soon to be ordered wheels arrive today so I gotta prep those. I was going to get them powder coated but since I plan on them getting abused and beat up, I think a rattle-can treatment will do fine (plus easy to touch up should they get scraped, which i know they will). Here is the link for the JCR overhead rack if anyone is interested:
https://www.jcroffroad.com/product/JLOMP-PC.html

Next thing to be decided on are rear bumpers/ tire carriers. It really doesnt end. Seesh
 

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Thank you for the order!
Thanks for coming up with a great solution lol. Love your products. ESP my stage 2 rock rails I had on my XJ lol
 
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Happy Friday y’all! Came back from my lunch break today and saw that Brown Santa left me a little something. My rock rails finally arrive and I’m pretty glad I’m friends with the techs at my job. Perks of working at several dealerships (2 of them are Jeep dealerships). Getting the stock rock rails off was pretty straight forward. 6 nuts on the pinch seam, and 3 bolts to the tub. You don’t have to worry about them dropping on you as the studs are through the punch seam. Once those are out, you can start on the install of the new ones. I went with the DV8 tubular rock rails. I like the design of them and how they mount to the Jeep. I know there are many different options and possibly better methods of mounting, but I liked how these are designed (for now). Anywho, you’re gonna look at the 3 body mounts on each side of the Jeep. You ONLY need to loosen and remove the front one. Leave the bushing/spacer on the body. It will get sandwich by the rock rail mount. Moving to the middle body mount, there are two nuts flanking the body mount, these will have to be remove. DO NOT break loose or remove the body mount bolt. I know some people said they had to loosen these to get the rails on but I will tell you there’s no way to retighten them once the rails are mounted. Plus the less body mount bolt to possible snap broken the better. The rails will go on just fine without loosening them. You will repeat this process with the back mount. Remove the two flanking nuts there as well. Put the rails up to those mounts, use a floor jack if you’re by yourself or have a buddy give you a hand with getting it up there. Might take some finessing to get the notches above the body mount spacer but you’ll get it in there. Bolt up the nuts on there loosely until all of them are on, then retighten. You can also do the front body bolt to the front mount as well, given you didn’t snap it -___- At this point just repeat everything on the other side for the other rail. Sorry I didn’t get better pics, we just got done for the day and basically trying to get this done so we can leave work lol. I’ll try to get better pics tomorrow during the day. The install took less than an hour with electric ratchets. Didn’t even break out the 1/2” impact. Cheers!

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Took advantage of the day today by running my coax cable from the tailgate to the front and installing my cb radio. I’m waiting for then @JcrOffroad Overhead rack to arrive this week so I can install it cleanly. For now, zip ties lmao. So, let’s do the damn thing and hopefully this helps those thinking of doing the same. Starting from the back, I already mounted the antenna to my cool tech antenna mount. I’m running a 3ft firestick antenna as well. This was pretty straight forward and there’s many write ups about it just be sure to keep your tailgate even and straight.

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Next, if you don’t have the sub in the trunk, this next step will be much easier. First you have to pop out the small plastic square seatbelt cover next to the roll bar and the whole panel pretty much pops off. Run the cable from the tailgate where all the wiring goes in. You don’t even need to take the panel off completely just pull it out a little to run the wire through.

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From here I just ran the cable along the roll bar using zip ties, my cargo net straps, and my @GPCA grab handle straps to keep them out of the way.

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Come spring or when it gets warmer to take the top off, I will be able to remove the plastic trim on the roll bar to better hide the cable. For now it’s out of the way. And now we gut the dash. Disconnect your battery at this point as we are doing electrical work. As per the dash, this is pretty straight forward if you’ve done this already. I’ve already done the first part when I hid the cables for my phone and iPad. Scroll up for a video write up of that. This time though, I planned of tapping into the cigarette lighter for the power and ground so you will need to remove the lower half of the dash. Once you have the top half of the dash off, it’s just one screw in the middle and the rest is held in by snaps. Just give it a good tug heheh.

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At this point we detached the harness from the cigarette lighter which is what we will be tapping into. Black is your ground and the Pink wire will be your hot. You can use a vampire connector to make your life easy but I’m an idiot and didn’t get them. I used but connectors and shrink tubes to seal them. Cut the pink wire, twist the ends together and insert in one end of the butt connector. Do the same for the black/ground wire. We got extra 16gauge wire in black and red as the ones that came with the radio will not reach. Pull out enough of the extra cable to run under the dash. Cut the ends, strip the wire, and connect the end of the red to the other side of the butt connector that has the pink wires in them. Then do the same for the black/ground cable. I didn’t get pics of the wires spliced but at this point you’re ready to fish the extra wire out from the center of the dash. Open the glove compartment and the tab above it can be pushed to drop open the glove compartment. You will now go from the cigarette lighter, to the glove compartment. You can now start putting the center dash back together. Pull the extra red and black wire through the glove compartment.

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Now, you’re going to keep going to the right of the glove compartment and down to the floor. The plastic panels aren’t super bolted in so you can actually just finesse the wire through there. Since I don’t plan on taking down my windshield, I used the gap between that and the roll bar to run my wire up to the top where my coax cable ended up. If you have extra length wire to work with, you can now connect the end of it to the radio and make measurements on where you want it and pull the excess accordingly from the glove compartment.

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We are on the final stretch. Once you figure out where to mount the cb and length wire you need, have a friend hold the radio while you pull excess wire back to the glove compartment and zip tie excess wire in there. You can now close the glove compartment and move on to the top. I forgot to mention taking you freedom tops off would make this easier lol. You can now put the top panels back on. If you don’t have a solution to mount the radio up there then you will benefit from what my temporary solution was....you guessed it, zip ties.

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The radio is on there tight and it’s not going anywhere until my overhead rack gets here this week. I will post up a write up on installing that as well. But I was able to tune my radio just fine and I have little to no interference from anything. I hope this helps anyone looking for a solution to mounting their cb radio over head. I will update this when my rack gets here. For now, I need a beer. 10-4
 
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Still waiting on my JCR Molle Overhead panel to come in. Turns out it’s in production still. I thought they just had it in stock . But in any case the show must go on. Pretty much just working and putting away for wheels and tires. After much debate (with myself), the gf put her foot down and decided for me. “Go with 37’s because if you go 35’s you’ll want to go to 37’s anyway.” Can’t argue with that logic. So for now we save for that lol. Anyway I don’t want to update this empty handed so my Bulletproof Mount arrived for my GoPro to add more bling to the cockpit. Just waiting on the rail ball from 67 designs to put that up. This thing is hella solid for such a short arm lol. Cheers

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While stashing away for wheels and tires, I e just been trying to take care of the smaller mods. Mostly interior and things that don’t really require too much wrenching, if at all. Installed the Bulletproof mount for the GoPro when my 67designs ball mount arrived for the rail. Everything is now pretty much in place until @JcrOffroad finally ships out my overhead molle panel so that I can take my cb radio off my freedom top handles (zip tied lulz).

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So today, I picked up this gem from work. The road to 37’s continues. Until I decide on which tire carrier to go with whether stand alone or rear bumper/carrier, this is my current solution to the third brake light. Looks awesome and was super easy to install. Longest part was taking the spare off and on.

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Took advantage of the day today by running my coax cable from the tailgate to the front and installing my cb radio. I’m waiting for then @JcrOffroad Overhead rack to arrive this week so I can install it cleanly. For now, zip ties lmao. So, let’s do the damn thing and hopefully this helps those thinking of doing the same. Starting from the back, I already mounted the antenna to my cool tech antenna mount. I’m running a 3ft firestick antenna as well. This was pretty straight forward and there’s many write ups about it just be sure to keep your tailgate even and straight.

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Where did you get the antenna mount?
Duh first time reading I just saw "cool" (which it is)

https://www.cooltechllc.com/2018-je....html#/71-mopar_tailgate_reinforcement_kit-no

looks like it's this one correct?
 
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A little teaser thanks to the lovely weather we had today. More to come soon....

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NEW PART DAY!!! So my @JcrOffroad Overhead Molle Panel finally arrive. Solid stuff and clean design. Install was quick and simple enough. Unfortunately after I finished, an issue reared its ugly head. More on that after the write up. Lets get this bread.

I'm gonna start with JCR's video on how to install it, and just go over what I went through with mine. The part itself is gorgeous. Comes with hardware. If anyone is keeping track, I odered this part due to my current CB radio is at the time zip-tied to the freedom top handles. A good temporary solution but not now that it's getting nicer out.

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Time to get crackin. I cut off all but one ziptie to keep my radio hanging until I could remove the top panels off one at a time. Then I rested the radio on the windshield/front bar. I started with the rear of the panel. First there are 3 T25 torx screws holding the plastic trim. left, right. and center. Once those are removed, you can just pull the plastic trim off as they are on there with clips. (Protip: Becareful when pulling the plastic trim down. the Interior Dome light unit is held on by 2 plastic tabs. Guess who broke both of them.....yup. Pull the trim down SLOWLY. Otherwise, you'll be using 3M velcro tape to keep your dome light up there. Yup, that's how I fixed it for now.)

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After that, you will need a T40 torx to get 4 of these screws to remove the latches. Keep the hardware as you will reuse them. Then you will turn to the front and will be removing the center plastic trim next. You can slowly grab from the back and slowly pull it towards you and down. The clips are on a bit of an angle. (Protip: I realized the trim would go down further if you unclip you visors and swing them out of the way)

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Now that we got the trims off, gab the rack and position it. The rear has 4 holes to align with the holes you got from removing the T40 tork screws. The front sits on top of the roll bar. Next we turn to the rear of the jeep, taking the latches for the freedom top, place them over the JCR mounts and align the 2 holes per each side to the 2 holes on the jeep roll bar. Install the original hardware (T40). (Protip: for the freedom top latches, they are adjustable and able to move around before tightened. I personally went with most distance appart from each other then tightened the screws. No issues with the freedom top latches.

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You will need to dril for the two screws. I used a center punch as a guide and then used a 1/8" drill bit as a pilot hole. After that you will need a 3/8 drill bit. You will be enlarging the JCR hole first then go through you jeep :D Take your time and dont push down on the drill too hard, you dont want to go through that and hit anything else on the other side. I shockingly, did not hit anything. Such wow. Install the allen head bolts and locking washer and nut supplied one for each of the holes you just drilled. Sorry forgot to take a pic of that :(



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Then temporarily mount your cb radio on there to figure out where you want it on the panel.

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Once you decide on where to mount you radio, attach it using the cb mounting hardware. If you dont have that, I used 2 10mm bolts and 2 nuts with 4 washers. After thats locked in, put all the trim back together and call it a day. 10-4

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So here is the current issue. After finishing the install, I turned the jeep on and the wipers started going on high .Check Engine Light stays on, and dash reads "Service Electronic Stabilizer". Along the with the other symptoms: no rear wipers, no washer fluid, no high beams, no flashers, no blinkers, and no steering wheel warmer. The wheel was also tough to turn while sitting still. Well, tougher than usual, but its fine while moving obviously. I had the techs at work take a quick look and we narrowed it down to the Steering wheel control module. I also have no controls on the wheel(Volume, skip, directional, ok, call buttons, cruise control. The horn works fine tho (ironically). But I'll bring it into the shop tomorrow morning to get a better proper look. just weird cause its uh 2 months old with 4,600 miles lol. We will see.
 
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So as cb per my electrical issue, it was just a blown fuse. I forgot to ask the tech which one it was but I’m just glad it was in and out. The wait for wheels and the rear of my tires continue. Should have the rest of the tires in by tomorrow night. I also got a nutsert tool for all the upcoming Metalcloak armor I’ll be ordering. (Flares, rockrails, rocker guards). The rocker guards/skins arrive tomorrow so I guess I’ll put the rivnut tool to work. Stay tuned...

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