Apex AutoLYNX sway bar disconnect

[DadJokes]

Are you talking about the blue knob rotating around with the silver ring base under it? If so I did have that with mine. I reached out ApexDesign and AJ instructed me on how to fix it. If it’s the same thing as mine there was little to no red loctite on the nut under the blue knob. I’ll look for my email with AJ. It was an easy fix with the AutoLynx staying on the Jeep.

That should create enough force against the notched shaft via the snap ring to keep it from rotating. Perhaps revisit that and make sure there’s enough thread locker. Good call. I missed that. Thanks for sharing! That might just do it.

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[Dalvarado55]

Are you saying the entire shaft is rotating? Or the silver ring under the blue knob. I’d get a grease pencil and mark it on the nut and shaft maybe. If its the ring under the knob #1 in pic attached then I can send you the fix for that. If it’s the entire shaft then Is say re-loctite and tighten #2. That’s if I’m reading your issue right.

 

[LittleDog]

Are you saying the entire shaft is rotating? Or the silver ring under the blue knob. I’d get a grease pencil and mark it on the nut and shaft maybe. If its the ring under the knob #1 in pic attached then I can send you the fix for that. If it’s the entire shaft then Is say re-loctite and tighten #2. That’s if I’m reading your issue right.

Thanks for the suggestion. While I think it is the entire shaft, it's true that I don't know exactly which bits are rotating. I'll put some lines on them tomorrow.

The assemblies on both sides seem tight. I am unable to rotate either by gripping the center shaft and twisting either way. The top knob and sliver sleeves seem tight as well, but I haven't applied gorilla strength to anything, only 40% weenie-arm strength.

Both knobs still function smoothly. I'll check to see if they actually still disconnect tomorrow.

I'm thinking the crazy heat recently loosened something just enough that road vibrations slowly spun them. Weird that they spun in opposite directions though.


I did give that #2 nut a little pressure with a wrench, to see if it was loose, but it didn't budge. I didn't try too hard though, because setting the torque is a hassle without the correct size crowfoot wrench.

Does the #2 nut actually keep the shaft from rotating? I don't remember now. I thought the middle assembly spun freely around the shaft, even when #2 was tightened, for less pressure on those top bushings.

 

[apexdesignsusa (Vendor)]

I've had the Autolynx on for several months now, and love them, but a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the shaft is rotating a bit, i.e. the knob no longer faces straight fore and aft.

The driver-side has rotated about 15° clockwise, and the passenger-side 60° counter-clockwise. Still working as normal though.

Has anyone else experienced this? The shaft is still tight enough that it can not be rotated by hand.

@apexdesignsusa (Vendor) is some rotation normal and allowed?

Hi @LittleDog - the assembly should not rotate. The nut that is tightened while setting the length is what prevents the knob and body from rotating.

If the torque on the silver nut adjacent to the upper mount was low, or Loctite was not used, the assembly can rotate. The assembly is the blue knob and the laser etched body.

Here are the steps to fix rotating knob & cylinder:

1) If the body (laser etched gray cylinder) cannot be rotated by hand, loosen the silver nut by the upper mount. This is clockwise.
*Don't use a wrench on the lower seal head or the shaft that goes into the body, as this may cause damage.

2) After adjusting the alignment, reverse the direction of the nut counterclockwise to tighten.

3) We recommend using a good spanner wrench and snug up the wrench adjuster so there is no lash.

4) If the nut wont budge, use some heat to release the Loctite. Keep applying heat gradually until it releases. Too much heat can mark the anodized finish.

If you have further questions, pls contact us at info[at]apexdesignsusa[dot]com, as we do not monitor these forums frequently.

 

[LittleDog]

Hi @LittleDog - the assembly should not rotate. The nut that is tightened while setting the length is what prevents the knob and body from rotating.

If the torque on the silver nut adjacent to the upper mount was low, or Loctite was not used, the assembly can rotate. The assembly is the blue knob and the laser etched body.

Here are the steps to fix rotating knob & cylinder:

1) If the body (laser etched gray cylinder) cannot be rotated by hand, loosen the silver nut by the upper mount. This is clockwise.
*Don't use a wrench on the lower seal head or the shaft that goes into the body, as this may cause damage.

2) After adjusting the alignment, reverse the direction of the nut counterclockwise to tighten.

3) We recommend using a good spanner wrench and snug up the wrench adjuster so there is no lash.

4) If the nut wont budge, use some heat to release the Loctite. Keep applying heat gradually until it releases. Too much heat can mark the anodized finish.

If you have further questions, pls contact us at info[at]apexdesignsusa[dot]com, as we do not monitor these forums frequently.

Thanks for the reply.

I forgot that the silver nut (#2 in the above photo) pushes against a clip towards the top, so tighten/loosen is reversed.

I'll give your suggestion a try, and will e-mail you if I have any problems.

 

[LittleDog]

Sorry for hijacking this post, but the fix recommended by @apexdesignsusa (Vendor) worked. Thanks for the help.

Didn't need to remove anything, but it was difficult getting loctite into the tiny gap with everything straight up and down.

Turning the wheels all the way out gave just enough clearance for an 18" torque wrench.

Took the opportunity to put them both facing the same way, so I can just tell people to turn them both to face the front or back.

 

[Knel6]

My autolynx is supposed to be coming in on saturday it seems. Gonna update when I install on the jeep though. Bought the 10.5” stroke version for some future proofing and plan on using a heat gun and tennis ball to clearance the fender.

Curious if you were able to install the 10.5 links? Is this on a stock sport? How did they fit, any rubbing on the fender liners?

 

[CptFloridaMan]

Curious if you were able to install the 10.5 links? Is this on a stock sport? How did they fit, any rubbing on the fender liners?

I still haven’t installed them yet. But I do plan on it in about the next two weeks, work schedule has been mental with 60+ hour weeks.

I’ve got rubi springs on my sport, and paramount inner fenders installed. I’m planning on introducing the liners to a blow torch and ball hitch to massage it to make space for the lynx. I should only need an extra 3ish inches up. I’m gonna play with and see how high up it goes into the liners. Im hoping all is good though with the paramount inners. Earlier in the thread someone had installed the longer version with stock sport inner fenders and massaged it. So I’ll update it once I massage it all in.

 

[Knel6]

I still haven’t installed them yet. But I do plan on it in about the next two weeks, work schedule has been mental with 60+ hour weeks.

I’ve got rubi springs on my sport, and paramount inner fenders installed. I’m planning on introducing the liners to a blow torch and ball hitch to massage it to make space for the lynx. I should only need an extra 3ish inches up. I’m gonna play with and see how high up it goes into the liners. Im hoping all is good though with the paramount inners. Earlier in the thread someone had installed the longer version with stock sport inner fenders and massaged it. So I’ll update it once I massage it all in.

Good luck, hopefully work lightens up a bit for ya. Keep us posted!

 

[EDH_JL]

I put 80 off-road miles on my disconnected Autolynx on Sunday and they worked great. Being able to hop out in the pitch dark of 5:30am and flip the knobs in 10 seconds then get back in was worth the relatively high price. Then after a long day of hunting to not have to get underneath the Jeep and wrestle with the sway bar? Priceless.

 

[CptFloridaMan]

I SHOULD be installing after thanksgiving finally. Hate to have it just waiting in the box all this time. So I’ll be posting pics of that hopefully.

But since I’m also looking at shocks, I wonder how clearance would go with clearing a reservoir like the BP51.

 

[Acme]

I'm interested in these but I wonder how they would hold up in our northern climate (I live in Canada and we have long, harsh winters with loads of salt used on our roads). To me it looks like salt and other corrosive crap could get inside the cylinder and create a mess in there but maybe I'm wrong. Any opinion on that?

 

[DadJokes]

Just a small update.

I went with a group to do some Kentucky mud hole type trails. (I remember why I hate mud. Leaves trapped everywhere too.)Through all of that, there wasn’t a peep out of my Autolynx. They just worked. I’m sure I maxed the suspension travel a few times and they definitely got some articulation cycles in. When I was done, I reconnected in less than 15 seconds and was on the road. I’ve had a great experience with this product.

 

[DadJokes]

I'm interested in these but I wonder how they would hold up in our northern climate (I live in Canada and we have long, harsh winters with loads of salt used on our roads). To me it looks like salt and other corrosive crap could get inside the cylinder and create a mess in there but maybe I'm wrong. Any opinion on that?

There’s a durable wiping type of seal the vendor says. It keeps the dirt out. With what I’ve been through (mud), no issues here.

 

[Tagoren06]

I have been watching this product for a bit now, waiting on upgrade priorities to catch up to get these or the Antirock® Sway Bar Kit has anyone really compared the two? Yes, I know they are a bit different or products but that both deal with the sway bar differently. Would be curious as to which might be worth the funds?

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