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Terrific Aftermarket Fob I came across

millerjl

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I'd like to know this also. Just about everyone who has done this have mentioned they have had to break the original fob. I would like to know if it is possible to do the conversion without having to do that.....
One of mine came out without doing anything. Used a tiny flathead jeweler screw driver at one end at carefully pried from both ends until it came out. On my wife’s I had to use a razor blade and cut out a side section as in the install video. I think it would still easily go back in and work just fine. It isn’t going to fall out or anything.
 

Rhinebeck01

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Well, I sent an email to AJT Designs, asking that Adam address the comments being made in regard to the cheap plastic feel and the battery install being a pain comments...

Anyway, here is the reply to my email, from Adam:

The battery goes in fine for me (but requires correct technique) and I showed it the best I can with the video. I am honestly surprised so many people have trouble with it. My design is greatly simplified from the factory fob, adding an extra layer to hold it in like the OEM fob would have added bulk and cost (given this is a relatively low volume product). I wish there was something more I could do at this point, I really did not foresee so many people struggling with this.

The plastic is PC-ABS and ABS (depending on color) which is the same that the material the factory fob is made of.

We generally put less texture on our fobs than OEM, and I think this is causing the perception of a "cheap feel". Until now no one really complained about it. I personally don't care for excessive texture on something that gets handled so much. One of the reasons we don't use a lot of texture is that over time the surface will wear, whether it is our fob or oem, simply due to how much the fob is handled. The more texture you start with, the more the wear will show and the worse it will look over time. That said, due to this feedback we will consider adding slightly more texture in the future.

Thanks,

Adam Truckey
AJT DESIGN, LLC
[email protected]
 

mazeppa

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I like the fob and don’t regret my purchase. The transponder removal and getting the case halves to closed was a little tricky but doable. Never would I have considered the texture of the plastic as a negative. The main reason I purchased this fob and would purchase again is because there are color choices other than black.
 

PeeCeeJunior

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The plastic feels fine. Maybe not as nice as the OEM fob, but not cheap. Everything is in there sturdy and nothing is creaking or bending. I wouldn't have said no to easier to read buttons, but you're working by memory usually anyway. I'm sitting here squeezing my key fob to see if there's anything cheap feeling about it and I don't see it.

Any way to tell if I jacked up my transponder? I got it out, but it was a little messy and I scratched up the plastic.
 

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Rhinebeck01

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Snipe:
Any way to tell if I jacked up my transponder? I got it out, but it was a little messy and I scratched up the plastic.
Scratching up the plastic on the transponder, causes no issues.

You cut through it and yup, you would damage, kill it. IF you "jacked up my transponder", your JL would not start with the fob it was in.

.

.
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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My design is greatly simplified from the factory fob, adding an extra layer to hold it in like the OEM fob would have added bulk and cost (given this is a relatively low volume product). I wish there was something more I could do at this point, I really did not foresee so many people struggling with this.

The plastic is PC-ABS and ABS (depending on color) which is the same that the material the factory fob is made of.

We generally put less texture on our fobs than OEM, and I think this is causing the perception of a "cheap feel". Until now no one really complained about it. I personally don't care for excessive texture on something that gets handled so much. One of the reasons we don't use a lot of texture is that over time the surface will wear, whether it is our fob or oem, simply due to how much the fob is handled. The more texture you start with, the more the wear will show and the worse it will look over time. That said, due to this feedback we will consider adding slightly more texture in the future.
To be clear, I do not regret my purchase and think the AJT design looks cool as hell.

That said, above reply from AJT is about as compelling a justification as Steve Jobs justifying “antennagate” by saying users were holding the phone incorrectly.

Fob batteries last a long time. I hope not to change them often enough to develop “the right technique.”

As for the feel, I think there’s more to it than just texture. The Jeep fob has texture, but also exposed metal bits (key and button) and a big, raised logo. I think those add heft and a feeling of quality when coupled with the texture. My GMC key (granted, it goes to what might be considered a luxury vehicle) has lots of metal trim around the sides as well as rubber; it’s pretty much perfect. My Honda Civic fob also has metal trim and feels better quality than the AJT, but not as nice as Jeep or GMC. It also costs $175 BEFORE programming (I just had to get one). So, I think the lack of metal on the AJT coupled with smooth plastic is what creates the cheap feel.

Would I expect any more than I got for $25? Nope! It’s a good product, albeit frustrating to assemble.
 

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Just to underscore for anyone watching this thread - this new fob is GREAT. I know it doesn't seem that much smaller by dimensions, but it feels DRAMATICALLY smaller in the pocket, and it's lighter too. If your goal is to be more minimalist, do it, you won't regret it.

As a side note, I struggled to get the transponder out and just didn't. I put the factory fob with transponder and the manual key in a faraday bag and locked it in my vehicle safe. If someone's already gotten in there, there's nothing they can't get, including the entire vehicle.

Cheers!
Nick
 

Rhinebeck01

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Just to underscore for anyone watching this thread - this new fob is GREAT. I know it doesn't seem that much smaller by dimensions, but it feels DRAMATICALLY smaller in the pocket, and it's lighter too. If your goal is to be more minimalist, do it, you won't regret it.

As a side note, I struggled to get the transponder out and just didn't. I put the factory fob with transponder and the manual key in a faraday bag and locked it in my vehicle safe. If someone's already gotten in there, there's nothing they can't get, including the entire vehicle.

Cheers!
Nick
@NickTinVA

Doing what you did in regard to the transponder .... I plan on doing the same when I get my hands on the AJT Design's fob.

Once I know I'm aok with the aftermarket fob... am real pleased with it, etc. (I figure I will be very pleased with it), and only then, will I move the transponder to the aftermarket case.

.
 

TEOTWAWKI Rubicon

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Having now used the AJT fob for a week or so, I will say that I much prefer how it feels in my pocket (phrasing?). While the overall size is not that much smaller, the shape makes a big difference. Just don't make me put a new battery in...ever again!

Adam's response about the battery difficulty was pretty lame-- "Well, I don't have any problem with it!"

Doesn't seem like a little tab to hold the battery in place would add much complexity or cost to the design, but then I've never created a key fob so what do I know?
 

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salvadorsantana

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Did mine over the weekend. Taking apart OEM fob was easy following video directions. Putting AJT together was though because of the battery...but...common sense kicked in :CWL: I basically ended putting the top and bottom cover halfway and then got a thin blade which I used to push the metal border of the board that way the battery could set in.

I even did it twice, since on my first assemble I did it with the little triangle provided for the lock and unlock, so decided to open it again to remove it since I did not like the "click" feeling and second time applying this method was so easy even a caveman can do it lol.

Planing on maybe getting the gray case.

Regarding size and quality....10000000% better than OEM!

IMG-8514-copy.jpg
 

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Rahneld

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When you open up the stock JL fob, is it possible to remove circuit board, without disturbing the key and it's wound spring.. ?

I'd like to just slide out the circuit board. I already have a cut key and am not going to place the transponder in the AJT Design fob..

.
I've done it.

My technique is to....separating both halves of the fob just enough to twist them in the opposite directions...

(I'll guess top of fob clockwise and bottom counterclockwise...)

but keeping them as close together as possible, so as to not uncock the spring....

maintaining pressure, pull out circuit board and put back.

….I don't think recocking the spring though, at least IMHO, is that bad a fate as to worry about it becoming undone.

you just grab the leg of the spring and twist the top of the fob in....a can't remember if its clock or counterclockwise direction....

I'll say counterclockwise because the spring then has incentive to twist clockwise, exposing the physical key, which opens, as you know, in that spin direction.

: - )

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NickTinVA

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I've done it.

My technique is to....separating both halves of the fob just enough to twist them in the opposite directions...

(I'll guess top of fob clockwise and bottom counterclockwise...)

but keeping them as close together as possible, so as to not uncock the spring....

maintaining pressure, pull out circuit board and put back.

….I don't think recocking the spring though, at least IMHO, is that bad a fate as to worry about it becoming undone.

you just grab the leg of the spring and twist the top of the fob in....a can't remember if its clock or counterclockwise direction....

I'll say counterclockwise because the spring then has incentive to twist clockwise, exposing the physical key, which opens, as you know, in that spin direction.

: - )

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Concur with this advice. I did not recharge the spring though, since honestly it didn't seem worth the effort. The spring is in there, but is limp (insert joke here). The key will still come out when the button is pressed with a slight wrist flick.
 

Rahneld

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Concur with this advice. I did not recharge the spring though, since honestly it didn't seem worth the effort. The spring is in there, but is limp (insert joke here). The key will still come out when the button is pressed with a slight wrist flick.
Whatever your motivation for not recharging the spring Nick, some might call that a "feature." ; - )

I'd be fine in this case, when needing the physical key, to press the button while the key slot is oriented to ground, allowing gravity to drop it from its horizontal position in the fob to vertical, and then continue its journey back to horizontal, 180 degrees clockwise, from "3" o'clock to "9" with my fingers---reversing this to close the key.

Key release button presses would then be less apt to expose the key unless the fob is oriented as discussed above, even then only having it emerge half way.

Clearly--not in importance to a pandemic--but you know--it's the little things in life... : - )

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