Teraflex ST1 1.5" spacer lift with 37"

[word302]

Great looking rig!!

Wow American adventure makes a quick release fender, so you can pop it out to wheel and open up space, thats pretty cool
https://americanadventurelab.com/product/jeep-jl-jt-quick-release-front-inner-fenders/

Those are not removable to make more space for wheeling (they have plenty of clearance). They're removable to make cleaning and maintenance easier.

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[UKCATS]

The stock red rubi shocks long enough? No shock extensions needed?

I have a sport with rubi suspension and I'm try to decide if I need the extensions with the teraflex 1.5 spacer kit

The Rubi shocks were fine on the street, but not off-road. I replaced them with the Falcons.

 

[NPE102414]

I agree I am getting a little spun out, and obsessive.. But I am enjoying the process, and I like looking at pics and talking about options. But I will be 50k in on my jeep, and probably 4-5k in on my build by the time I am done. And yes I can take a small loss on parts etc reselling, but the installation costs are a killer, and I don't have the tools or skills to do the work myself. Though on tires discount installs for free, so not the end of the world.

If you can’t do the work yourself I would skip completely over the spacer lift and go with a actual lift because that is something you will for sure regret. The cost of installing then swapping out the spacer lift for an actual lift will be at least $700 a pop, at least that’s what it generally costs up here in the North East. Tires are an easy swap if you regret the 35s but a lift is not so simple. Installing a spacer lift is pretty much the same process as installing a basic spring and shock lift so the price will be pretty much the same. I installed the ST1 at a 150 miles and now at 950 miles I’m installing an actual lift because I should have done it from the get go. The lift wasn’t bad, don’t get me wrong but after adding rockslide steps, spare tire, steel bumper group, and a winch I lost all the height I had gained. It looked fantastic with 35’s without the added weight, but soon as the rest of my parts went on I wasn’t so happy. One thing I am happy about is the 35s, great balance between trail in street use, As a matter fact I’m seriously considering going down to a 315/70/17 C Range to get an even better ride. The first pic is immediately after install of the lift and steel bumper group. Second pic is how it sits as I type this. It doesn’t look like it but it lost at least an inch of height even with the winch removed.

 

[SleepEatJeepRepeat]

If you can’t do the work yourself I would skip completely over the spacer lift and go with a actual lift because that is something you will for sure regret. The cost of installing then swapping out the spacer lift for an actual lift will be at least $700 a pop, at least that’s what it generally costs up here in the North East. Tires are an easy swap if you regret the 35s but a lift is not so simple. Installing a spacer lift is pretty much the same process as installing a basic spring and shock lift so the price will be pretty much the same. I installed the ST1 at a 150 miles and now at 950 miles I’m installing an actual lift because I should have done it from the get go. The lift wasn’t bad, don’t get me wrong but after adding rockslide steps, spare tire, steel bumper group, and a winch I lost all the height I had gained. It looked fantastic with 35’s without the added weight, but soon as the rest of my parts went on I wasn’t so happy. One thing I am happy about is the 35s, great balance between trail in street use, As a matter fact I’m seriously considering going down to a 315/70/17 C Range to get an even better ride. The first pic is immediately after install of the lift and steel bumper group. Second pic is how it sits as I type this. It doesn’t look like it but it lost at least an inch of height even with the winch removed.

ya I see the rake in the first one, something to think about

 

[NPE102414]

ya I see the rake in the first one, something to think about

I really liked it before the added weight went on, now not so much.

 

[NPE102414]

ya I see the rake in the first one, something to think about

Also, you need to think about what you will do if you encounter any steering issues if you install it yourself. Are you capable of tackling such an expensive and complicated issue on your own? If the answer is no then have a professional install it so you can lean on him afterwards. TeraFlex will tell you nothing else is required but that’s a flat out bad piece of advice because my axles were off center by 3/4 of an inch up front. I don’t think the stock suspension is capable of running a heavy tire wheel combo I would be more concerned about a lift choice over a tire choice at this point.

 

[SleepEatJeepRepeat]

Ya I went with 35s, I am already having steering issues and have not put them or the lift on yet.. going to hold off and work on the steering issue

 

[SleepEatJeepRepeat]

Looks like you are flexed about 2 feet not bad for stock

 

[SleepEatJeepRepeat]

Also, you need to think about what you will do if you encounter any steering issues if you install it yourself. Are you capable of tackling such an expensive and complicated issue on your own? If the answer is no then have a professional install it so you can lean on him afterwards. TeraFlex will tell you nothing else is required but that’s a flat out bad piece of advice because my axles were off center by 3/4 of an inch up front. I don’t think the stock suspension is capable of running a heavy tire wheel combo I would be more concerned about a lift choice over a tire choice at this point.

Dealership fixed the steering today, was just able to do a hard banked 1 mile up curved hill climb at 85 miles an hour and it held the lane.. going to go for the lift with professional install tomorrow

I am going to stick with the spacer lift. Primarily because I know I don’t want to run 37s, 35 is plenty big enough for me, and still reasonable for gas, drivability, mounting spare, etc.. and I just feel like the 2” spring lifts are closer to 3” and leave to much space on 35s .. I also won’t do a winch, I am 2000ft from the Pacific Ocean and honestly it will rust out before I use it, I primarily wheel in the dessert and 80% there is nothing to winch off of.. I do have a hand crank come-along and always go with a second vehicle (got stuck once and had to hike 8 miles with my kids, never again) .. I like the factory steel bumpers, so won’t be changing bumpers either.. .. the only person making a 1.5” spring lift is skyjacker and the reviews are terrible, just feel the spacer is better than putting cheap springs on the vehicle.. and the height is right for me.. I don’t do technical rock crawling, I go on trails to get out and have an adventure with my family and go see pretty places that my wife a photographer can take pictures.. intermediate trains are fine for me..

Install happens tomorrow will post some pics for you guys

 

[NPE102414]

Dealership fixed the steering today, was just able to do a hard banked 1 mile up curved hill climb at 85 miles an hour and it held the lane.. going to go for the lift with professional install tomorrow

I am going to stick with the spacer lift. Primarily because I know I don’t want to run 37s, 35 is plenty big enough for me, and still reasonable for gas, drivability, mounting spare, etc.. and I just feel like the 2” spring lifts are closer to 3” and leave to much space on 35s .. I also won’t do a winch, I am 2000ft from the Pacific Ocean and honestly it will rust out before I use it, I primarily wheel in the dessert and 80% there is nothing to winch off of.. I do have a hand crank come-along and always go with a second vehicle (got stuck once and had to hike 8 miles with my kids, never again) .. I like the factory steel bumpers, so won’t be changing bumpers either.. .. the only person making a 1.5” spring lift is skyjacker and the reviews are terrible, just feel the spacer is better than putting cheap springs on the vehicle.. and the height is right for me.. I don’t do technical rock crawling, I go on trails to get out and have an adventure with my family and go see pretty places that my wife a photographer can take pictures.. intermediate trains are fine for me..

Install happens tomorrow will post some pics for you guys

How did they fix it? What issues did they resolve?

 

[NPE102414]

Make sure your dealer won’t pull any bullshit and try to void your warranty with an aftermarket spacer lift.

 

[NPE102414]

We're running one of the heavier true 37s out there on the stock suspension. We don't have any issues with the suspension other than it doesn't flex that much. JFYI

To say your not having any issues is pretty vague. A heavy tire/wheel combo may not cause issues but it completely changes the handling characteristics of the Jeep. The factory suspension is not designed to handle the eight very well. Will it for a short period of time, absolutely!! But it’s not ideal.

 

[SleepEatJeepRepeat]

How did they fix it? What issues did they resolve?

they just tightened everything down and checked alignment, they said they saw nothing wrong but I pushed it pretty hard last night and felt better

 

[NPE102414]

How else would you like the discussion framed?


Is this better?

It drives better (on pavement) than any other 4x4 I've owned with 37" or larger tires (steering isn't obviously good as my matched full hydro set ups with 40-42" tires, but it's definitely on par with any recirculating ball set up out there). The speedo is off by about 20% (yes, it should only be about 13-14%...but apparently true 37's are that much larger than the factory BFGs on the Rubicon) and it was scary how fast it was charging up the mountain passes on our way to Colorado through the twisties....the 88" width outside to outside tire with no lift is probably a large part of that.

Obviously, it doesn't handle like my Lotus, but then again, I don't have many other frames of reference for a 4wd going 100+ mph on mountain grades/curves for short spurts when passing, etc. with sustained speeds of 75-80. And...the front factory sway bar is removed in favor of a Currie Anti-Rock...so it has more body roll than a factory sway set up would.

Any specific question you'd like addressed? If so, HMU.

 

[NPE102414]

How else would you like the discussion framed?


Is this better?

It drives better (on pavement) than any other 4x4 I've owned with 37" or larger tires (steering isn't obviously good as my matched full hydro set ups with 40-42" tires, but it's definitely on par with any recirculating ball set up out there). The speedo is off by about 20% (yes, it should only be about 13-14%...but apparently true 37's are that much larger than the factory BFGs on the Rubicon) and it was scary how fast it was charging up the mountain passes on our way to Colorado through the twisties....the 88" width outside to outside tire with no lift is probably a large part of that.

Obviously, it doesn't handle like my Lotus, but then again, I don't have many other frames of reference for a 4wd going 100+ mph on mountain grades/curves for short spurts when passing, etc. with sustained speeds of 75-80. And...the front factory sway bar is removed in favor of a Currie Anti-Rock...so it has more body roll than a factory sway set up would.

Any specific question you'd like addressed? If so, HMU.

First off, frame you “discussion” anyway you choose. I have the same set up on my rig and I know how it handles and drives with heavy wheels and 35’s. Mine weigh in at a 116 pounds each and it 100% changed the way the jeep handles on the street. This is my seventh wrangler so I have a lot of seat time behind the wheel of these things and know how they generally drive, some better than others but basically all the same. I have zero steering issues with and there’s no way in hell this thing feels stable at 100 miles an hour, between 75 and 80 yes it’s perfect, but after that no way

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