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roaniecowpony

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For you that have the Delta brakes, I found that my front brake lines were marginally long enough at full lock, due to the different position of the line attaching to the calipers.

My solution was to get the Synergy front brake lines from Poly Performance (Synergy's own retail outlet) Synergy Stainless Braided Brake Line Kit for 2018+ JL, JLU Wrangler, FRONT ONLY (polyperformance.com)

For the rear, I purchased the Teraflex lines (Synergy rear lines don't look like the end banjo fitting is bent to work well with the rear Delta brakes). Since the Teraflex lines didn't come with a factory style bracket, I cut the OEM lines and pulled them thru, then spread open the bracket where the line goes thru, with a chisile/hammer. Then I put the Teraflex lines in the bracket and crimped in a vise. There are likely other makers that have a good fit with the rear Delta brakes and maybe have brackets already installed.
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CarbonSteel

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For you that have the Delta brakes, I found that my front brake lines were marginally long enough at full lock, due to the different position of the line attaching to the calipers.

My solution was to get the Synergy front brake lines from Poly Performance (Synergy's own retail outlet) Synergy Stainless Braided Brake Line Kit for 2018+ JL, JLU Wrangler, FRONT ONLY (polyperformance.com)

For the rear, I purchased the Teraflex lines (Synergy rear lines don't look like the end banjo fitting is bent to work well with the rear Delta brakes). Since the Teraflex lines didn't come with a factory style bracket, I cut the OEM lines and pulled them thru, then spread open the bracket where the line goes thru, with a chisile/hammer. Then I put the Teraflex lines in the bracket and crimped in a vise. There are likely other makers that have a good fit with the rear Delta brakes and maybe have brackets already installed.
I haven't eyeing PowerStop since they appear to have the factory brackets, but not sure if the orientation will work.
 

SRQgunner

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Nice work! Note that you need to do a bleed job with the ABS activated. If you have JSCAN, it makes it easy.
i dont have a Jscan but maybe will purchase. JSCAN is an app you can install on your phone and connect via Bluetooth to a compatibility ODB module? could this be dobpne if there is a Tazer installed?
 

blnewt

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Just ask @cosine he knows!
i dont have a Jscan but maybe will purchase. JSCAN is an app you can install on your phone and connect via Bluetooth to a compatibility ODB module? could this be dobpne if there is a Tazer installed?
I believe you have to un-marry the Tazer for the Jscan to work properly but???

When I put in a new rear diff I accidently had a brake line drop to the ground overnight and drained out, had air in the ABS module. I did about a dozen hard stops on loose dirt/gravel (going about 30 mph to a full stop) so the ABS kicked in, this helped bleed most of the air out of the module so I could then bleed them out as per a normal bleed, got 90% of my pedal back, might even be 100% since I can't recall how much pedal I actually had prior :)
 
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CarbonSteel

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i dont have a Jscan but maybe will purchase. JSCAN is an app you can install on your phone and connect via Bluetooth to a compatibility ODB module? could this be dobpne if there is a Tazer installed?
Correct. Not sure if Tazer has that capability or not.

@Rhinebeck01 ?
 

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SRQgunner

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Nice work! Note that you need to do a bleed job with the ABS activated. If you have JSCAN, it makes it easy.
so if I understand correctly the ABS bleed is done through the OBD port with a scanner that activates the ABS by open and close the ABS valves?

I may just take it to a brake repair shop to have that done.

I am very impressed with the increase stopping power I gained from the regular bleed job I did. ❤ the Teraflex brakes.

Note: I did talk with Z Automotive and was told I do not have to unmarry the Tazer to have an ABS bleed.
 
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CarbonSteel

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so if I understand correctly the ABS bleed is done through the OBD port with a scanner that activates the ABS by open and close the ABS valves?

I may just take it to a brake repair shop to have that done.

I am very impressed with the increase stopping power I gained from the regular bleed job I did. ❤ the Teraflex brakes.

Note: I did talk with Z Automotive and was told I do not have to unmarry the Tazer to have an ABS bleed.
Correct and the Teraflex brakes have speed bleeders which makes it easier.
 

Floriduramax3.0

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Correct and the Teraflex brakes have speed bleeders which makes it easier.
I have mixed feelings about the "speed" bleeders. I have been bleeding brakes for many years without the need for a check ball installed in the cavity for the bleeder screw to seat against. Most of the time a good gravity bleed would not require cycling the ABS pump. With this system and doing it by the directions, it's virtually guaranteed that you will need to cycle the ABS.

The odd thing is, when I followed the prompts from my Snap On scan tool, it only prompted me to cycle the right front and then the right rear. It never prompted to cycle the left side. I did it several times to make sure. My pedal is solid and at the top. These brakes are absolutely awesome! It still takes a lot of pedal pressure to hold back the diesel down an obstacle in 4 low and M1 gear..lol That low end torque combined with that transfer case ratio and 4.88 gears is pretty cool :rock:
 

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roaniecowpony

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I found the speed bleeders made bleeding an easy, one man, task. I ran about 2 quarts of fluid thru my system, to purge old fluid. I did it all by myself, with a short length of hose and my JSCAN for the ABS bleed. No "pump it up!", "hold!". Just pump until you believe the air is gone or the master reservoir is getting low.
 

Floriduramax3.0

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I found the speed bleeders made bleeding an easy, one man, task. I ran about 2 quarts of fluid thru my system, to purge old fluid. I did it all by myself, with a short length of hose and my JSCAN for the ABS bleed. No "pump it up!", "hold!". Just pump until you believe the air is gone or the master reservoir is getting low.
That is very interesting. I used my Snap On scan tool and in the prompts, it tells you that one person needs to press and hold the pedal as the pump started and the next prompt said to open the bleed screw while pedal depressed. It went through this a couple times. With my scan tool, it would be impossible to do it by yourself. I will have to look at at doing it with JSCAN next time.
 
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CarbonSteel

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I found the speed bleeders made bleeding an easy, one man, task. I ran about 2 quarts of fluid thru my system, to purge old fluid. I did it all by myself, with a short length of hose and my JSCAN for the ABS bleed. No "pump it up!", "hold!". Just pump until you believe the air is gone or the master reservoir is getting low.
Same--which is night and day different from the "good old days" where you had to have a helper so that you could pinch the bleeder between pumps to prevent air from going back into the lines.
 

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Ooh my favorite topic. If you want to increase your braking power you don't need bigger better rotors, maybe brake pads, but the biggest thing that's going to make the biggest difference, stronger brake calipers. You need to squeeze tighter to break harder and in a shorter distance.

Rotors are cool and all, but bigger rotors don't give you better stopping power. They do help with cooling, but they don't stop better. The only instance were cooling would actually affect stopping power is if your brake rotors are overheating. But even in stop and go traffic as a daily driver, you're not going to meet the kind of conditions you need to heat up your rotors enough to affect your braking power. Only case where that really matters is racing. Maybe while off-roading if you're on some really treacherous terrain, but even then at such a slow speed it's still matters more for caliper squeezing power.

Save yourself some money, invest in some better calipers and actually see a difference. Otherwise you're basically comparing Apple's to Oranges, when all you really need is a good vegetable.

Here's a really long video explaining some of the nuances in breaking. However it is the best video on the issue that I've seen on YouTube:
 
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CarbonSteel

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Ooh my favorite topic. If you want to increase your braking power you don't need bigger better rotors, maybe brake pads, but the biggest thing that's going to make the biggest difference, stronger brake calipers. You need to squeeze tighter to break harder and in a shorter distance.

Rotors are cool and all, but bigger rotors don't give you better stopping power. They do help with cooling, but they don't stop better. The only instance were cooling would actually affect stopping power is if your brake rotors are overheating. But even in stop and go traffic as a daily driver, you're not going to meet the kind of conditions you need to heat up your rotors enough to affect your braking power. Only case where that really matters is racing. Maybe while off-roading if you're on some really treacherous terrain, but even then at such a slow speed it's still matters more for caliper squeezing power.

Save yourself some money, invest in some better calipers and actually see a difference. Otherwise you're basically comparing Apple's to Oranges, when all you really need is a good vegetable.

Here's a really long video explaining some of the nuances in breaking. However it is the best video on the issue that I've seen on YouTube:
What? Why big brakes won't stop you faster, but wider tires will?

I can only say that between the OEM brakes and the Teraflex there is ZERO and I mean ZERO comparison in stopping power. Wider tires would not have made one iota of difference in stopping power and didn't--in fact they, in combination with the increased weight of the mods I installed they made it worse.

As far as larger rotors aka more surface area not helping, then why does every high performance brake system on the market have larger rotors? Why not have smaller then?
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