Teansfer Case cable adjustment

[jbird55044]

Odometer is ringing in about 250 miles, and I'm about at my end of tolerance that I can not get my Rubi to stay in 4Lo, without popping back into Transfer 'N', or even popping from 4H to 2H when shifting from 'R' to 'D'. I brought it up in conversation to the deal on the day I purchased it, and got the 'you have to understand Jeep'. Then after another visit for the wheel alignment, I brought it up again . . . I got the whole story about rolling in neutral, shift with a 'strong hand', and the whole slew of other Jeep-isms, that we all read about.

All I really am looking for is a 1/4" adjustment to my transfer case engagement cable. Simple task. . . yes? No! After taking some pictures and writing a detailed note to my dealer service tech, they have asked to keep it over night as they are still working on it. Really, all it needs is the cable to be lengthened 1/4" and everything will work as planned. The two pictures show the natural state of the transfer case engagement and how it does not align w/ the shifter; in both 2H and 4H. It's clear it's a 1/4" off.

Seems like there's no adjustment on this thing. I personally would simply cut the rod at the bottom of the engagement arm, on the transfer case, and put a set of threaded adjusters on it w/ a simple weld . . . but at 250 miles (and about $63k), I thought I would let the dealer 'deal' with it.

Anyone have an issue similar??

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[jbird55044]

Got my Rubi back today after an overnight stay at the 'spa'. She shifts transfer case absolutely perfectly. A night and day difference. Granted, it shift now like everyone says it should (with some patience, and persistence), but it does lock gear as expected. Next week I will find out why it took over night, and what exactly it took to adjust.

 

[D60]

Got my Rubi back today after an overnight stay at the 'spa'. She shifts transfer case absolutely perfectly. A night and day difference. Granted, it shift now like everyone says it should (with some patience, and persistence), but it does lock gear as expected. Next week I will find out why it took over night, and what exactly it took to adjust.

Yeah I'm curious

 

[jbird55044]

I picked it up after the Service Manager was done for the day. I'll connect w/ him on Tuesday upon his return to learn more:

246 TESTED AND FOUND WHILE PUTTING INTO 4 WHEEL DRIVE MODES IT DOES
,,,,NOT GET FULLY INTO GEARS AND AT TIMES WILL POP OUT OF GEAR. REMOVED
,„,CENTER CONSOLE AND FOUND SHIFTER CABLE NOT ADJUSTED PROPERLY. ADJUSTED
„„CABLE AND BRACKET AND FOUND NOW ALL WORKING AS DESIGNED

It now climbs without popping out of gear.

 

[Abrice37]

Odometer is ringing in about 250 miles, and I'm about at my end of tolerance that I can not get my Rubi to stay in 4Lo, without popping back into Transfer 'N', or even popping from 4H to 2H when shifting from 'R' to 'D'. I brought it up in conversation to the deal on the day I purchased it, and got the 'you have to understand Jeep'. Then after another visit for the wheel alignment, I brought it up again . . . I got the whole story about rolling in neutral, shift with a 'strong hand', and the whole slew of other Jeep-isms, that we all read about.

All I really am looking for is a 1/4" adjustment to my transfer case engagement cable. Simple task. . . yes? No! After taking some pictures and writing a detailed note to my dealer service tech, they have asked to keep it over night as they are still working on it. Really, all it needs is the cable to be lengthened 1/4" and everything will work as planned. The two pictures show the natural state of the transfer case engagement and how it does not align w/ the shifter; in both 2H and 4H. It's clear it's a 1/4" off.

Seems like there's no adjustment on this thing. I personally would simply cut the rod at the bottom of the engagement arm, on the transfer case, and put a set of threaded adjusters on it w/ a simple weld . . . but at 250 miles (and about $63k), I thought I would let the dealer 'deal' with it.

Anyone have an issue similar??

 

[Abrice37]

Yes im having the same issue with 20 gladiator. Pops out of 4lo constantly. So i looked at the cable linkage under the center console and there is a 14 mm bolt that sits in a adjustment channel i guess that can be slid back and forth. So i loosened the bolt and slid the channel all the way forward and buttoned everything back together. Now it works like a charm! It really snaps into 4lo and locks there! Problem solved!

 

[WVB]

Glad I found this. Same issue on my Willys. Scary as hell to have it pop out of 4lo when on a long steep shelf road!

 

[Jeepsk8]

I had this happen to me 2 times the first outing with my 2020 JLUR. It didn't happen last outing. I hope it doesn't become an issue as we have lots of shelf roads here and it's a long, steep way to the bottom. Is it that larger bolt in the picture that got adjusted?

 

[BDinTX]

Really appreciate the tips, I was having the same problem on our 2020 JLUR and it was driving me nuts. Back in the day I almost rolled a humvee on a really steep shale hill. I let off the gas for just a second and then back on it. Took me a sec to realize the engine was revving and we were rolling backwards. Anyways, didn't want a modern repeat on a trip we're planning soon and I don't have time to play "there is no problem" with the dealership. Using the info ya'll shared I did it and thought I'd plug in more pics with a step by step in case there is anyone else that is on the fence about tackling it themselves.

Drivers side, push seat back. I used a dental pick to pull the plug out but something plastic would work better. Insert and pry from the front. As mentioned - 10mm bolt underneath

Pull the boot off the transfer case shifter. I just pulled on the leather and it came out nicely but I was worried I'd rip something. A plastic pry tool would probably work better.

Back out the #20 Torx on the side of the shifter. You don't remove it completely.

The bezel around the transfer case and parking brake handle pops up.
I was able to just pull on it and push up from the bottom where I could fit my fingers in.

Push drivers seat forwards, pry the cover off from the top, remove the 10mm from the back of the console. Move to the passenger seat forwards and from the rear remove the 10mm the same way.

Move the passenger seat back, remove the 10mm bolt the same as before but pry from the 9 o'clock position. It's hard to see in the picture but the cover with its 3 clips on the underside are oriented opposite the one on the drivers side.

Back out the #20 torx and push in the shift release button on the front so the handle will come off.

Push the passenger seat forwards again, return to the rear seat and pull the carpet back to reveal three electrical connectors. The one in the middle is the type that has a sliding red lock, the other two are just squeeze and pull. You can lift the rear of the console up to help push the wires under the seat rail.

Push the front passenger seat to the rear and lift the front of the console a bit so you can reach underneath and unplug the gear selector backlight.

Pull the console out and go to the drivers seat. Just beneath the silver transfer case linkage is the nut that rides in the slot Abrice37 described.

The first time I opened it up the nut was all the way to the right in the slot. I moved it all the way to the left which gave me a positive shift into 4-Lo but it started popping out of 4-Hi... =/

The second time loosened the nut, then pulled the transfer case into 4-Hi by the linkage. Then I stuck the dental pick into the track between the lever and the white track to give it a little slop. The pick is about 1/16th of an inch so tip of a screw driver or a tooth pick would probably work too. Pick not inserted in this picture but I put it in right under the bend in the shift lever.

Reassembly is the reverse of above. Lifting the rear of the console made it a little easier to get the wires back under the rail. Pull the mud mats to the side before pushing it all the way down.

 

[Jeepsk8]

Thanks for the step by step! I haven't had it pop out again on a few more trips, so maybe I'll not have to worry about it.

 

[WVB]

The dealership adjusted mine and I haven’t had a chance to test it yet. I can say that it is still stupid hard to shift into or out of anything but 4H.

 

[BDinTX]

Lol ya, we’ve been “practicing” on a gravel road

 

[Snowdogs]

Just got mine back from the dealer for the same issue. At first the tech said that he was able to get it to engage but he had to put it in neutral and let the indicator stop flashing in order for it to engage. He suggested that is the way to get it to work. I picked it up, drove 100' and tried it and it wouldn't engage, got him to take a look at it with me and found out it took him 15 minutes to get it to engage. He took it back in and made the adjustment to the cable as BDinTX did (thank you for the step by step) and it now works as it should. I'll have to keep an eye on the 4HI to see if that is now an issue. I'll make the adjustment myself this time.

 

[jmduhh]

I made this adjustment today. I pulled the 4 10mm bolts, both shift levers, and raised the console a few inches shoving something under it to keep it slightly raised. In 4hi I was able to put a 14mm wrench on the adjustment bolt. Test drove and put back together in 30 min. No need to disconnect wiring or try and wiggle console out of the way. It could probably be done just by removing transfer case lever knob and the insert around it next time. Figured I'd share save someone some agrivation,. I can never remove consoles without scratching things

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