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TAZER JL Essential Tools for Geezers with Grubby & Arthritic hands like me.

William Hays

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I find these 3 basic tools to be most helpful when installing or removing the Tazer Bypass Module.

1st. Get a good small light. I glued a magnet to a small LED light and attached the light to the small metal bar under the dash and in front of the 2 wiring plugs to be removed or reinstalled.
DSCN1970.JPG

DSCN1971.JPG


2nd. Use a 1/4" long flat screwdriver to "FULLY" depress the connector Locking Tabs. I have found that when the Tabs are "FULLY" depressed, very little force on the wires will unseat the connectors. It is possible to use a shorter screwdriver than the one pictured. This one works really well.
DSCN1972.JPG


3rd. A short piece of CPVC Conduit works well for a connector reinsertion tool, in the event you have to return your JL to the Dealer for any service where they will need access to the OBDII port.

Cut one end of the Conduit at an angle. Not critical, but somewhere in the neighborhood of 30 degrees. Then cut a slot in the Conduit perpendicular to the angled cut as shown. When properly made, while holding the conduit up in front of you, the angled cut will slope toward you and the slot will be on the right. Place the base of the connector on top of the angled cut with the wires placed into the slot. Simply push the connector home until the locking tab snaps.
DSCN1969.JPG
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Rhinebeck01

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@William Hays

Cool........... thanks for sharing.

I just recently started using this $3.99, LED light that I purchased at Harbor Freight. What a difference such a light makes when you are working with the connector's on the Gateway module.

Of course, pulling off, the plastic panel under the steering column makes a world of difference also. I have always done that.

63601_I.jpg
 
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William Hays

William Hays

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@William Hays

Cool........... thanks for sharing.

I just recently started using this $3.99, LED light that I purchased at Harbor Freight. What a difference such a light makes when you are working with the connector's on the Gateway module.

Of course, pulling off, the plastic panel under the steering column makes a world of difference also. I have always done that.

63601_I.jpg
Nice Light.
No way for me without removing the plastic panel!
 

Rhinebeck01

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Oh, you can get the led light I mention, FREE ... with any Harbor Freight purchase right now.

See this add:
DO have a screen shot of the associated coupon and they will scan it at Harbor Freight, and you will be good to go for the freebe.

Screenshot_2019-01-26 Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977.jpg
 

OldGuyNewJeep

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Oh, you can get the led light I mention, FREE ... with any Harbor Freight purchase right now.

See this add:
DO have a screen shot of the associated coupon and they will scan it at Harbor Freight, and you will be good to go for the freebe.

Screenshot_2019-01-26 Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977.jpg
The freebie is a no brainer. I have several and find lots of uses for them. This is the ultimate HF light, though, and the one I use for the task of installing and removing my Tazer, as well as changing oil and working under the hood: https://www.harborfreight.com/390-lumen-magnetic-slim-bar-folding-led-work-light-63958.html

They go as low as $19.99. This 30% coupon is good for this weekend.

upload_2019-1-26_14-10-26.jpeg
 

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mazeppa

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y = x/0
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I find these 3 basic tools to be most helpful when installing or removing the Tazer Bypass Module.

1st. Get a good small light. I glued a magnet to a small LED light and attached the light to the small metal bar under the dash and in front of the 2 wiring plugs to be removed or reinstalled.
DSCN1970.JPG

DSCN1971.JPG


2nd. Use a 1/4" long flat screwdriver to "FULLY" depress the connector Locking Tabs. I have found that when the Tabs are "FULLY" depressed, very little force on the wires will unseat the connectors. It is possible to use a shorter screwdriver than the one pictured. This one works really well.
DSCN1972.JPG


3rd. A short piece of CPVC Conduit works well for a connector reinsertion tool, in the event you have to return your JL to the Dealer for any service where they will need access to the OBDII port.

Cut one end of the Conduit at an angle. Not critical, but somewhere in the neighborhood of 30 degrees. Then cut a slot in the Conduit perpendicular to the angled cut as shown. When properly made, while holding the conduit up in front of you, the angled cut will slope toward you and the slot will be on the right. Place the base of the connector on top of the angled cut with the wires placed into the slot. Simply push the connector home until the locking tab snaps.
DSCN1969.JPG
Thanks for the tips, I am also one of the old people, this is not a fun process for anybody. Removing the plastic kick panel under the steering column is the FIRST step when installing/or removing the connectors.

Unfortunately I had to removed my Tazer today, going to take my Jeep in for some minor warranty work next week and ORP update, going to play it safe and not leave the Tazer installed when it goes to the dealer service department.
 

Roky

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I find these 3 basic tools to be most helpful when installing or removing the Tazer Bypass Module.

1st. Get a good small light. I glued a magnet to a small LED light and attached the light to the small metal bar under the dash and in front of the 2 wiring plugs to be removed or reinstalled.
DSCN1970.JPG

DSCN1971.JPG


2nd. Use a 1/4" long flat screwdriver to "FULLY" depress the connector Locking Tabs. I have found that when the Tabs are "FULLY" depressed, very little force on the wires will unseat the connectors. It is possible to use a shorter screwdriver than the one pictured. This one works really well.
DSCN1972.JPG


3rd. A short piece of CPVC Conduit works well for a connector reinsertion tool, in the event you have to return your JL to the Dealer for any service where they will need access to the OBDII port.

Cut one end of the Conduit at an angle. Not critical, but somewhere in the neighborhood of 30 degrees. Then cut a slot in the Conduit perpendicular to the angled cut as shown. When properly made, while holding the conduit up in front of you, the angled cut will slope toward you and the slot will be on the right. Place the base of the connector on top of the angled cut with the wires placed into the slot. Simply push the connector home until the locking tab snaps.
DSCN1969.JPG
Thank you :beer:.
 

CanAmMick

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I’ve always used a clip on Streamlight and a long common screwdriver. Without a light it’s almost impossible to see what your doing.

0A0D1D07-FA65-4947-A156-1B76E2CCF12A.jpeg
 

Rhinebeck01

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That particular JL plastic panel, under the steering column, that we pull to get easy access to the gateway module, costs $25 and is a Lower Cover - Mopar (6AA94TX7AA)
lll.JPG
 

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WranglerMan

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@Rhinebeck01 I have lost a few of those clips that hold that panel on so I don’t pull it off anymore but since filling the connectors down just alittle they come out pretty easily
 

Rhinebeck01

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@WranglerMan

Daaaaah.... you are not supposed to lose those white plastic clips. There's 6, I think.

How the heck did you lose them.. How many are you missing.. ?
 

WranglerMan

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@WranglerMan

Daaaaah.... you are not supposed to lose those white plastic clips. There's 6, I think.

How the heck did you lose them.. How many are you missing.. ?
To be honest I have no idea the second time I had it off I noticed one missing and it was not to be found so guessing inside the dash somewhere and then I pulled it again showing a friend of mine where the Tazer and or Smart Stop/Start gets plugged into and be dammed if another one didn’t disappear so I’m done taking the panel off but need to find the clips but so far I can’t find the number
 

Rhinebeck01

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@WranglerMan

I'll do you a solid and mail you 2.

PM me your email address.

Don't friggin lose the one's I send you.. :giggle:
 

WranglerMan

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