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Dogboyslim

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I'm going to put on the metalcloak 3.5 and they suggest an aftermarket driveshaft. It appears there are 1310s and 1350s, but I don't know what either of those mean or why I'd pick one over the other. This is a JLUR DD Weekend Warrior jeep that I drive to wheel. I'll be running 35s. I expect to regear to 5.13s down the road and maybe go to 37s at that time.

What I have gathered is that 1310 is lighter duty than 1350, but when would I need to switch? I'm thinking of going with Adams that works with "up to 6" of lift." I'm included to go 1310 because I'm not a dedicated wheeling machine, but the cost differential is small here, so if there is a reason to consider 1350, I'll just do that now.

I really have no idea how to assess this choice and I'm looking for input from those that know. Thanks!
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sgtkersh

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You absolutely will not need a 1350 driveshaft. That difference between the two is the u-joints and flanges. Typically people will do a 1350 with a hemi or LS swap due to all the extra torque or axle upgrades to 60s, etc, or if they really get crazy on tires (like 40s) and really do some serious crawling. A pair of 1310s fit your situation fine and all you will ever need. The problem with going with something stronger is now that is not the weakest link in your drive train and you could blow something else up more costly to replace over a u-joint.

Adams are great driveshafts. I had a pair on my 2013 JKU and never once had a problem with them. Very smooth and got beat to hell on rocks at Rausch Creek and the Cove Campground (Big Dogs Offroad).
 

morricus

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You absolutely will not need a 1350 driveshaft. That difference between the two is the u-joints and flanges. Typically people will do a 1350 with a hemi or LS swap due to all the extra torque or axle upgrades to 60s, etc, or if they really get crazy on tires (like 40s) and really do some serious crawling. A pair of 1310s fit your situation fine and all you will ever need. The problem with going with something stronger is now that is not the weakest link in your drive train and you could blow something else up more costly to replace over a u-joint.

Adams are great driveshafts. I had a pair on my 2013 JKU and never once had a problem with them. Very smooth and got beat to hell on rocks at Rausch Creek and the Cove Campground (Big Dogs Offroad).
This man speaks the truth. Driveshaft companies would prefer you get a 1350 because there is almost a zero percent chance of you breaking it and they don't have to warrant anything. I did 1310 on my front driveshaft purposely, so its the weak link. I just put in a Tom Woods driveshaft, very happy with it. It was also cheaper than most. Install was easy, too me an hour, taking my time. I beat on it this past weekend, no issues whatsoever.
 

rustyshakelford

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We run the shafts MC offers and have been very happy. They are 1310s and perform fine. If I swap to tons I’d probably upgrade to 1350s but at this point we love them. Side note, I’ll build a dedicated tube buggy before I go to tons more than likely.

The driveshaft is a great addition to the lift! If you’re a 6 speed and 37s the 5.13s are perfect. If an auto and 37s id consider 4.88s especially if you stick with 35s. If you do much highway driving the low gears and smaller tires will kill your mileage.

Brett
 

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morricus

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One thing that Woods suggested, to split the difference so-to-speak between the 1310 and 1350 was to get non-greasable, sealed 1310 u-joints. The greaseable u-joints are hollow and slightly weaker than the solid sealed ones. Sealed u-joints were a no-cost option to put them in, which I did.
 
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Dogboyslim

Dogboyslim

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Cool! Thanks for the feedback, I'll go 1310s. I have the manual. I figured if I go to the 5.13s things will be a little higher than stock for the RPM range, and I basically will have a 5 spd with a granny. Right now 6th is at 2100 rpms at 70mph, and I think I figured it would go to 2400ish, which is similar to 5th right now, but I rarely use 6 because most of my roads are 55-65 mph. Still, my wallet has to recover from the lift before I go down the gearing rabbit hole.
 

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What length have most of you guys come up with for the front driveshaft? I measured 37 1/2 inches on a 3.5-inch metal cloak lift, but I'm still confused if I'm measuring this correctly or not.
 
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rustyshakelford

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Cool! Thanks for the feedback, I'll go 1310s. I have the manual. I figured if I go to the 5.13s things will be a little higher than stock for the RPM range, and I basically will have a 5 spd with a granny. Right now 6th is at 2100 rpms at 70mph, and I think I figured it would go to 2400ish, which is similar to 5th right now, but I rarely use 6 because most of my roads are 55-65 mph. Still, my wallet has to recover from the lift before I go down the gearing rabbit hole.
With 37s in 6th we’re just a hair under 2500 rpms. Mileage is combined 16-17. Love the combo

Brett
 

morricus

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What length have most of you guys come up with for the front driveshaft? I measured 37 1/2 inches on a 3.5-inch metal cloak lift, but I'm still confused if I'm measuring this correctly or not.
I think mine was about 38 or so. It has to be in a certain range, all around 38, I think.
 

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I'm going to put on the metalcloak 3.5 and they suggest an aftermarket driveshaft. It appears there are 1310s and 1350s, but I don't know what either of those mean or why I'd pick one over the other. This is a JLUR DD Weekend Warrior jeep that I drive to wheel. I'll be running 35s. I expect to regear to 5.13s down the road and maybe go to 37s at that time.

What I have gathered is that 1310 is lighter duty than 1350, but when would I need to switch? I'm thinking of going with Adams that works with "up to 6" of lift." I'm included to go 1310 because I'm not a dedicated wheeling machine, but the cost differential is small here, so if there is a reason to consider 1350, I'll just do that now.

I really have no idea how to assess this choice and I'm looking for input from those that know. Thanks!
I’m running 1310 Adams, love it, works great.

1D443284-F69A-44C6-B2BF-83DCE8D4152E.jpeg
 

stil2low

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What length have most of you guys come up with for the front driveshaft? I measured 37 1/2 inches on a 3.5-inch metal cloak lift, but I'm still confused if I'm measuring this correctly or not.
I took measurements off the shaft that MC includes in their kit.

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jlroman2

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Hey y’all. Sorry to hijack the post but since it’s on driveshafts, I felt like it would be appropriate. So I recently got my 2.5” Metalcloak lift installed about three weeks ago on my Sahara. I didn’t replace the driveshafts because I figured I’d do that later. So after one day of having the lift, I started hearing this noise when going below 30 mph. I had them check it and they said it might be the driveshaft since the outer rubber part was already ripping apart (they said something like that). They also mentioned that some of the brake pads might be rubbing with the wheel and need replacement.

I wanted to ask if any of you experienced this noise or if You have any idea of what this sound might be. You can hear it the most at 15 mph below when the brake or acceleration pedal aren’t pressed. Assuming it is the driveshaft, the shop is charging me $280 for labor. I hear some of you install it pretty easily, but is that an ok price or would I be able to do it myself. Note that I have no experience with working with any parts down there and I know there’s specific measurements as well. I was already thinking of replacing the shafts so might as well do it now. Thanks. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

D60

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@jroman I couldn't make out much from the video clip but it seems unlikely a noise under 30 is from front d/s

I agree you'll likely need to upgrade sooner or later but throwing a shaft at it due to a mystery noise is textbook parts cannon.

However if you really want to know and simultaneously learn, yank the front shaft and see if the noise vanishes.

You'll need some wrenches or sockets at the front pinion yoke, and a torx bit on extensions at the t-case output -- an impact wrench is ideal here, too. Failing that see if you can have a helper in the driver seat to pull it into 2hi/4hi to keep the front output from rotating when you want it stationary.

Really this would be wrenching 101 so if you're looking to learn, it doesn't get much simpler than this, although it's a bit out-of-position as they say in welding....

edit: the front shaft shouldn't be spinning in 2hi anyway (duh) so if your noise is in 2wd it's not the shaft
 
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D60

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This is what you're removing, front pinion and t-case output respectively.

$280 labor for a front JL d/s R&R seems RIDICULOUS (you better get lubricant and a hand job with that one, and even then it's exorbitant).

NOW, if you SWAP the shaft you'll need to actually swap the t-case output flange. An impact is virtually required here.....BUT if you have an impact (as any shop would) it's literally a 5 minute procedure at a leisurely pace.

If you elect to swap the shaft yourself (and work toward Man Card points) you could always remove the stock one, have a shop or friend help with the t-case output swap, and then install the new shaft yourself with basic hand tools.

But really a Milwaukee 2767 should be in your immediate future 'cause tools are cool!

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