Synergy MFG 2" Lift Starter System

[SpookyXJ]

What offset is everyone aiming for with this 2" lift? So many threads on the forum push 4.5" backspacing, and even some manufacturers have it on their websites. The table from Synergy seems to imply closer to stock is better (see below). AEV made JL specific rims with higher backspacing (~5.7). Which is "better", 4.5-4.75" or 5.25-5.75"?


The goal is to run 37s (likely KM3s or STT Pros) with untrimmed rubicon fenders. I am wanting to minimize the bump stop spacing and keep as much up travel as possible without rubbing.

Thanks!

d

I have a 2" Synergy lift and 17x8.5" wheels with a 4.75" backspacing and 315/70r17's(35x12.50's)on a sport. They did not rub with the stock swaybar but do rub on the front of my air cylinder on my swayloc swaybar.

Swa is rubbed off from the swayloc sticker from tire contact at steering full lock. Everything tucks fine with sport flares and the inner fenders removed. I have Artec inner fenders and 2" of bump stop in the front.

With the extra width you have from the rubicon axles you should be able to get away with running closer to stock backspacing with a 12.50 width tire but if you go 13.50 or more consider a wheel with less backspacing

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[Gravitythief76]

More pics of stage 1 jlurs! Would love to know what changes would be needed or recommend to make a stage 1 3” lift.

 

[oceanblue2019]

More pics of stage 1 jlurs! Would love to know what changes would be needed or recommend to make a stage 1 3” lift.

Stage 3 will be out sometime soon which will be a 3" lift. It will be everything in Stage 2 plus the 3" springs, front drag link flip, front track bar relocation, and who knows what else Synergy comes up with. Might include rear track bar in addition to the relocate bracket that came in stage 1/2.

May need some front brake line relocation tabs, like Synergy made for the JK's and prior models.

 

[jdhunt0]

I have a question about drag link. The instructions say to position it so the bend points forward and then tighten the adjustment bolts. I have done this, but as I drive it rotates and the bend is no longer level. I assume this is normal movement in the end links? If I grab it it can be moved quite a but up and down.

 

[quietpeen]

I have a question about drag link. The instructions say to position it so the bend points forward and then tighten the adjustment bolts. I have done this, but as I drive it rotates and the bend is no longer level. I assume this is normal movement in the end links? If I grab it it can be moved quite a but up and down.

Mine has the same amount of movement. I’m going to say its normal and I have had no issues with my drag link and I definitely put it to the test.

 

[AllJumpStyle]

We use a single plane tie rod end on the pitman arm side that prevents excessive movement of the bar. The knuckle side tie rod end is a full misalignment tie rod end to prevent any chance of binding throughout the suspension and steering travel. I would need to see what your pitman arm side tie rod end is doing, but that movement does seem a bit much. I would make absolutely sure the pitman arm side tie rod end is being sufficiently clamped by the pinch bolt and that the adjuster threads are not turning when you move the bar like that.

 

[jdhunt0]

We use a single plane tie rod end on the pitman arm side that prevents excessive movement of the bar. The knuckle side tie rod end is a full misalignment tie rod end to prevent any chance of binding throughout the suspension and steering travel. I would need to see what your pitman arm side tie rod end is doing, but that movement does seem a bit much. I would make absolutely sure the pitman arm side tie rod end is being sufficiently clamped by the pinch bolt and that the adjuster threads are not turning when you move the bar like that.

The pinch bolts are torqued to spec. It is rotating on the threads on the pitman arm side. The silver part does not move but the rod end does. Should I try getting it tighter?

 

[jdhunt0]

I went up to 100 lbf*ft and there is still rotation of the threads between the rod and and the silver adjustment. The only other thing I have thought of is the slot on the adjuster is about 90deg off from the slot on the drag link. I can turn them to match but then I assume my steering wheel will not be centered.

 

[oceanblue2019]

I went up to 100 lbf*ft and there is still rotation of the threads between the rod and and the silver adjustment. The only other thing I have thought of is the slot on the adjuster is about 90deg off from the slot on the drag link. I can turn them to match but then I assume my steering wheel will not be centered.

Can you send a picture of the pitman side?

I had the end of the Synergy track bar, at the double adjuster, that did the same - DA did not rotate but the threaded end would. I took it apart, cleaned it out, put it back together and torqued no problem. Don't know what it was but something was keeping it from clamping.

 

[jdhunt0]

 

[oceanblue2019]

If you measure from Zerk to end of grey tube what's the distance on the DA side?

 

[jdhunt0]

If you measure from Zerk to end of grey tube what's the distance on the DA side?

2.5”

 

[Roky]

I went up to 100 lbf*ft and there is still rotation of the threads between the rod and and the silver adjustment. The only other thing I have thought of is the slot on the adjuster is about 90deg off from the slot on the drag link. I can turn them to match but then I assume my steering wheel will not be centered.

I would try and get the slots lined up and then re torque. You might have to take the rod end loose from the pitman arm to rotate to maintain straight steering wheel.

 

[AllJumpStyle]

Yes, it absolutely should not be doing that and It would be very dangerous to leave it like that. Like others said, it would be a good idea to make sure the knuckle end is threaded in as far as it can go, so you can get a little more stick out on the adjuster side and try to line the slots up. Tighten that pinch bolt until the adjuster is adequately clamped and does not move. It is ok if you have to go over 100 lb-ft. It is more important that the adjuster is adequately clamped.

 

[Nick p]

@AllJumpStyle do you have any idea when your spec shocks will be available? I have your 2” kit on my Euro spec 2 dr and would like to try them. I fully appreciate the world is screwed up at present and development and manufacture will have been pushed back.

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