oceanblue2019
Well-Known Member
Fox 2.5's - Synergy suggests part numbers in their product page.What are some shock recommendations for the Synergy Jeep JL / JLU 2 Inch Lift Stage 1 Suspension System
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Fox 2.5's - Synergy suggests part numbers in their product page.What are some shock recommendations for the Synergy Jeep JL / JLU 2 Inch Lift Stage 1 Suspension System
did you mean 2.0? 2.5's are quite expensiveFox 2.5's - Synergy suggests part numbers in their product page.
2.0's work well too, and they list the P/N's.did you mean 2.0? 2.5's are quite expensive
Ever since I started to wrench on Jeep, I get a weird collection of sockets, open wrenches, and crowfoot attachments, since most Jeep stuffs are metric but a lot of aftermarket stuffs are SAEs. I think I now have them covered all the way up to 2" and 46 mm.I got my stage 1 install finished up today. I've been taking my time, a little here and there over the past week, so I really have no idea how long it took. I was not in a hurry since I am working from home.
First the before and after pics. The after is before driving it, so I expect it to settle a little. Below them a few tips I think might be useful. I have detailed pictures with a tape measure for height, I'll post comparisons in a couple days.
Before:
After:
A few tips I gathered along the way:
For me the rear sway bar links were touching the shock body at full droop. So extended them 6 turns until they were no longer touching.
I found the box end of a 13mm wrench was perfect for unclipping the parking brake cable
I struggled to get the bump stops clipped down. I found rotating my pry bar to where it had pressure from the spring helped. Then I tapped it with a hammer.
I set my LCAs to 24 3/8". I think that resulted in about 6 degrees of caster. The steering is definitely heavier, I am having to get used to that. It does self center better and tracks nice and straight.
No major issues were encountered. My wrenches only go up to 16mm, so I had to use a crescent wrench for 18mm, 21mm, 22mm and beyond. It would have been nice to have those wrenches. I did buy a giant 15" crescent for adjusting the track bars and the LCAs.
A pair of 6 ton jack stands was sufficient along with a floor jack. Luckily I chose amazon over harbor freight. I ended up doing the front one side at a time.
I did pull out the air impact for loosening the LCAs, it took about 100psi to loosen it up. After struggling to torque the rear UCAs, I decided to not loosen the front UCAs and it worked out fine. I was able to easily get the front springs installed.
The install was pretty straight forward. With the right tools, it can be done by yourself in your garage. Good luck!
Thanks for this. A few questions:I got my stage 1 install finished up today.
The install was pretty straight forward. With the right tools, it can be done by yourself in your garage. Good luck!
If you get a chance I'd loosen the front UCA bolts while jeep on ground and re-torque them. The factory arms do not use free floating bushings but vulcanized rubber and they will tear if over rotated. The loosening is not to get more droop but to release the bushing.I got my stage 1 install finished up today. I've been taking my time, a little here and there over the past week, so I really have no idea how long it took. I was not in a hurry since I am working from home.
First the before and after pics. The after is before driving it, so I expect it to settle a little. Below them a few tips I think might be useful. I have detailed pictures with a tape measure for height, I'll post comparisons in a couple days.
Before:
After:
A few tips I gathered along the way:
For me the rear sway bar links were touching the shock body at full droop. So extended them 6 turns until they were no longer touching.
I found the box end of a 13mm wrench was perfect for unclipping the parking brake cable
I struggled to get the bump stops clipped down. I found rotating my pry bar to where it had pressure from the spring helped. Then I tapped it with a hammer.
I set my LCAs to 24 3/8". I think that resulted in about 6 degrees of caster. The steering is definitely heavier, I am having to get used to that. It does self center better and tracks nice and straight.
No major issues were encountered. My wrenches only go up to 16mm, so I had to use a crescent wrench for 18mm, 21mm, 22mm and beyond. It would have been nice to have those wrenches. I did buy a giant 15" crescent for adjusting the track bars and the LCAs.
A pair of 6 ton jack stands was sufficient along with a floor jack. Luckily I chose amazon over harbor freight. I ended up doing the front one side at a time.
I did pull out the air impact for loosening the LCAs, it took about 100psi to loosen it up. After struggling to torque the rear UCAs, I decided to not loosen the front UCAs and it worked out fine. I was able to easily get the front springs installed.
The install was pretty straight forward. With the right tools, it can be done by yourself in your garage. Good luck!
I was going to suggest doing this also. The uppers are not near as tight as the lowers which also means they are not as hard to get back to the proper torque.If you get a chance I'd loosen the front UCA bolts while jeep on ground and re-torque them. The factory arms do not use free floating bushings but vulcanized rubber and they will tear if over rotated. The loosening is not to get more droop but to release the bushing.
1. The rear track bar bracket was back ordered 5 weeks, So they gave me an adjustable rear track bar instead. I may try and add the bracket later to level out the bar.Thanks for this. A few questions:
1. Did you use a rear track bar relocation bracket or the adjustable track bar?
2. Dod you have to cut or drill for the rear relocation brackets? I’ve seen videos where this was the case.
3. Did you use the OEM rear links for the front or did you upgrade the front links?
Thanks for the tip. I'll loosen and tighten later today.If you get a chance I'd loosen the front UCA bolts while jeep on ground and re-torque them. The factory arms do not use free floating bushings but vulcanized rubber and they will tear if over rotated. The loosening is not to get more droop but to release the bushing.
Yes, and the upper frame side uses captive nuts so easy, and the axle side has quite a bit of clearance to get to.I was going to suggest doing this also. The uppers are not near as tight as the lowers which also means they are not as hard to get back to the proper torque.
It's a tough compromise....What offset is everyone aiming for with this 2" lift? So many threads on the forum push 4.5" backspacing, and even some manufacturers have it on their websites. The table from Synergy seems to imply closer to stock is better (see below). AEV made JL specific rims with higher backspacing (~5.7). Which is "better", 4.5-4.75" or 5.25-5.75"?
The goal is to run 37s (likely KM3s or STT Pros) with untrimmed rubicon fenders. I am wanting to minimize the bump stop spacing and keep as much up travel as possible without rubbing.
Thanks!
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