Synergy Jeep JL / JLU / JT Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace

[CarbonSteel]

I highly recommend against using a grease fitting as a set screw. They are made out of very soft material and won't hold up. Installing a second one 180° out from the original is a good idea, but just for greasing purposes.

I agree with this.

It all goes back to the design--aluminum bracket instead of steel, a thin wall bushing with a minimum interference fit (which allows rotation at minimal force), and minimum lubrication paths. In the end, it probably would not matter if it was a grease zerk or a set screw, the pitman arm has enough force to cause the bushing to turn due to lack of lubrication anyway. The 7 P's were definitely not considered.

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[JMONEZ]

Not sure I had the lift and brace installed by @Northridge4x4 Kind of annoyed if they didn’t make sure the bearing was lined up before the install. Other than that I’m always happy with them though.

Chances are very likely it was lined up when installed. I’ve had 2 separate bearing supports Spin in just 2 months time. Both hand lubed prior and even paint marked bronze bushing. Each only took a few weeks before they spun. I’ve since removed that piece with no intention of reinstalling. Obvious wear on both bushings as well.

 

[Rodeoflyer]

unfollowing

 

[jhernandez]

Just got my
Synergy Jeep JL / JLU / JT Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace In ams will install this week! How does everyone like it? I have just a tad wonder but nothing to bad.

Found new problem with this synergy trackbar and sector shaft brace, when turning wheels to left and slightly reverse there is a clicking sounds also when running around 55 miles steering start to vibrate what is causing this issue? Check everything is tight and torque specs right and still a problem please help thanks.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I would assume they choose aluminum over steel to keep it the weak link. If things were to turn soft brown, I'd rather have the aluminum bushing holder break than to transfer that energy into the frame and cause fracture cracks, etc.

I've always preferred a slightly oversized and deburred grease entrance hole in the wearable bushing. Minimizes any possible clogging.

If designed correctly, a parent bushing should have too thick of a wall for a zerk to reach the wearable bushing. On the chance that it's not, that would be a sad alternative to a properly sized bushing. I increase the interference fit when working the softer materials. It's a balancing act, depending on application, material, parent bushing thickness, and wearable bushing thickness that determines how heavy of a pressed fit it can handle.

If you're going to the trouble to make a new pillow block and bushing, consider putting an internal groove all the way around the bushing, to distribute the grease. Otherwise, it goes into the clearance and just squirts out nearby and there is no "reservoir" for the grease.

But in assessing the entire design, I just am NOT on onboard with this thing having enough stiffness to prevent deflection of a sector shaft. The internal sector shaft, albeit cantilevered, bearings are many times more robust. ... and as I mentioned earlier, it made no difference upon installation nor removal. My steering is tighter than it ever was with the sector shaft brace.

 

[Headbarcode]

If you're going to the trouble to make a new pillow block and bushing, consider putting an internal groove all the way around the bushing, to distribute the grease. Otherwise, it goes into the clearance and just squirts out nearby and there is no "reservoir" for the grease.

But in assessing the entire design, I just am on onboard with this thing having enough stiffness to prevent deflection of a sector shaft. The internal sector shaft, albeit cantilevered, bearings are many times more robust. ... and as I mentioned earlier, it made no difference upon installation nor removal. My steering is tighter than it ever was with the sector shaft brace.

Yeah, I previously mentioned the utilization of a thicker walled bronze bushing that would offer enough real estate to incorporate a radial grease channel. It wouldn't need to be too deep or wide for it to serve as the path of least resistance.

I too, fully agree about it being the wrong way to approach stiffening of the steering gear box. The 4 mounting holes in the frame, used to mount the box, should've been sleeved and maybe an external frame lapping plate that would spread the steering box energy out over a larger area.

As this thread picked up speed, I started thinking of my own rendition of the brace. Kinda spit balled some initial thoughts early in these pages. But after a bit more thinking, it's a waste of time, material, and 3-phase. I'd sooner spin up a few much less time consuming bushing sleeves, and have my talented structural welding brother burn them in.

 

[roaniecowpony]

I'm just thinking its an answer looking for a problem.

 

[JMONEZ]

Thanks for posting. This thread had me wondering about mine so I inspected it today. Bushing is not spinning and all seems well enough even though I still can't pump grease into it. This was my third attempt at greasing.
Mine has 15,000 miles on it without this spinning issue and I'll be surprised if one develops. I'll yell like hell if it does.

So the bronze bushing is lined up but still won’t accept grease?

 

[roaniecowpony]

No way to know if the bushing is spinning unless you disassemble it.

 

[Headbarcode]

Thanks for posting. This thread had me wondering about mine so I inspected it today. Bushing is not spinning and all seems well enough even though I still can't pump grease into it. This was my third attempt at greasing.
Mine has 15,000 miles on it without this spinning issue and I'll be surprised if one develops. I'll yell like hell if it does.

So the bronze bushing is lined up but still won’t accept grease?

No way to know if the bushing is spinning unless you disassemble it.

I'll second these guys questions, and add that there's been report of the bronze bushing grease hole not being lined up with the fitting straight out of the box. Did you happen to take notice before installing? I know, you wouldn't think you'd need to check.

Also, it wouldn't be spinning like a top, just small random and accumulating movements.

 

[Ehmsea]

This is where my shaft brace going.

Hey - don't be like that....
Recycle that aluminum.

 

[jhernandez]

Hey - don't be like that....
Recycle that aluminum.

What happen, did you replace a bad defect synergy trackbar and sector shaft brace??

 

[Ehmsea]

What happen, did you replace a bad defect synergy trackbar and sector shaft brace??

some are seeing the brass "bearing" rotating within the aluminum sector shaft brace. This misaligned the grease port with the zerk fitting...

 

[jhernandez]

I'll second these guys questions, and add that there's been report of the bronze bushing grease hole not being lined up with the fitting straight out of the box. Did you happen to take notice before installing? I know, you wouldn't think you'd need to check.

Also, it wouldn't be spinning like a top, just small random and accumulating movements.

I took out the brace and grease it on top and install again and put more grease again in zerk fitting, torque and still clicking sound. I am thinking the sector shaft brase is broken, what do you think?

 

[limeade]

I took out the brace and grease it on top and install again and put more grease again in zerk fitting, torque and still clicking sound. I am thinking the sector shaft brase is broken, what do you think?

If you did all of that to the brace, then check your drag link and tie rod ends. If one of them are bad, they could make that clicking noise when you turn the steering wheel.

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