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Synergy Jeep JL / JLU / JT Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace

DCBlake

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This thread is making me nuts. I gotta go check now. I'll put the grease gun on it and see if I get squeeze-out at the bushing.
yes to be safe double check if it doesn’t squeeze out a bunch or hits a spot where gun stops then I bet holes aren’t lined up.
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DCBlake

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Are there any alternatives to Synergy’s solution?
yes but this one was supposed to have the added protection of the sectors shaft which in the long run ( in my case ) gave me the shaft. There are other track braces stated in this thread but this was a Synergy product so I never thought twice. Oh well.
 

DCBlake

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On my JLUR, it didn't have a noticeable effect. I'd guess it's more valuable on jeeps with 35s and up than on my stocker or may reduce wear on the steering box bearing. It may even prevent someone from cracking a steering box when banging around in the rocks.
I would agree that this should have been more valuable when going to bigger tires. This was going to be my step one ahead
Just read this thread as I've been thinking an affordable and effective way to improve handling feel. Given the headaches I've been reading about ... doesn't seem to be worth it. Especially if I have to re-grease part every 3000 miles if everything is perfect.
let me say this. in concept if product is delivered properly where bearing hole is aligned it‘s great product especially if you are on bigger tires or will be in the future.

so if anyone buys this product just first check bearing grease hole is aligned properly. Another gotcha depending on your setup the springs could make it diff to get to 1or 2 of the steering box bolts. So when doing your initial setup take that into account To let drivers side suspension to sag to where you get enough room for access to bolt between coil spring make Sure you have a torque wrench that can handle up to 250 lbs for the pitman nut. Now on the videos out there others didn’t do this but I used blue thread lock on the hex and Allen screw for sector brace. Be careful when setting the hex bolt and Allen screw to where you just snug it and then grab torque wrench to finish the job to avoid stripping the brace.
 
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An update - I went ahead a pulled mine - as I thought, the holes were more than 90 degrees off and the shaft surfaces were not lubricated. I don’t have a press but I heated the unit and used a 32 mm impact socket and hammer to press out the bearing, reseated in the proper position, again with a hammer and socket, and reinstalled on the Jeep. Synergy should give me a partial refund for my troubles....I much appreciate those on this forum for sharing knowledge and helping me avoid a squeaky situation down the road.
 

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Just a question for those of you that have taken the bronze bushing out of the aluminum pillow block; does the bronze bushing have a groove in the O.D.?
 

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Are there any alternatives to Synergy’s solution?

Yes and no...As far as the 'sector bearing support' there is not an alternative-and probably for good reason. As far as the trackbar support goes-yes, several including Rancho, Steer Smarts and Rusty's. I removed the Synergy brace within days (never did drive it with the 'sector bearing assembly' as it was defective out of the box) and sold it. I then installed the Rancho trackbar support and it fit perfectly, after everything was torqued to specs I could slide the trackbar bolt through both sides of the trackbar mount using just two fingers-no BFH needed. As a side note, if there is a warranty issue with the steering gearbox down the road, there will be no aftermarket 'sector shaft bearing support' to complicate things...
 

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yes to be safe double check if it doesn’t squeeze out a bunch or hits a spot where gun stops then I bet holes aren’t lined up.
S#!t No grease.

Am I going to have to loosen the entire brace to get the aluminum pillow block out and back in?

Once out, I'm thinking just remove the zerk, and drill the bushing. This bushing should probably also get a groove cut around it to distribute the grease.
 

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S#!t No grease.

Am I going to have to loosen the entire brace to get the aluminum pillow block out and back in?

Once out, I'm thinking just remove the zerk, and drill the bushing. This bushing should probably also get a groove cut around it to distribute the grease.
You can just take out the two bolts of the sector brace. It would be easier to drill through fitting hole rather than remove and replace bushing. Was it misaligned from the start, or did it turn after you installed it?
 

roaniecowpony

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It is a beefier bushing than stock but is still rubber. Steer Smarts offers a 'pro' series trackbar with sleeved poly bushings. (You can also upgrade your existing Yeti trackbar with the poly bushings)
My only concern with these and why I did not order them was due to experiences with poly bushings years ago...I hate squeaks and my truck back then, with all new poly bushings sounded like a worn-out spring mattress on a honeymoon night :)

I have had the Yeti PRo with the poly bushings installed since last October. Never heard a squeek or any other noise from it.
 

roaniecowpony

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You can just take out the two bolts of the sector brace. It would be easier to drill through fitting hole rather than remove and replace bushing. Was it misaligned from the start, or did it turn after you installed it?
I really couldn't say for sure. But It was likely misaligned from the start. I hand greased it in the bushing when I installed it a few months ago.
 

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Roky

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I really couldn't say for sure. But It was likely misaligned from the start. I hand greased it in the bushing when I installed it a few months ago.
It’s seems to be happening both ways, mine was 180 degrees off out of the box, motto 21 spun after it was installed a while. I thought mine was an isolated issue, but apparently the company is having bigger issues with it. Mine works great after I got it dialed in, been a few months now problem free.
 

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S#!t No grease.

Am I going to have to loosen the entire brace to get the aluminum pillow block out and back in?

Once out, I'm thinking just remove the zerk, and drill the bushing. This bushing should probably also get a groove cut around it to distribute the grease.
I chose not to drill as I didn’t want to take a chance on leaving a rough spot. I did same basic thing windshield did by Removing and reseating bearing properly. The method they used should work for everyone who doesn’t have a press. Just pop out, align, and reinstall. No need for a groove as there’s more than enough space for the grease to be applied. Just do initial squirt, turn wheel left apply again, and then right for one final application wipe off excess and you should be good. now I say that tongue and cheek as I will be checking this thing weekly for quite sometime.
 

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It’s seems to be happening both ways, mine was 180 degrees off out of the box, motto 21 spun after it was installed a while. I thought mine was an isolated issue, but apparently the company is having bigger issues with it. Mine works great after I got it dialed in, been a few months now problem free.
that’s good to hear as I had same issue being out by 180. Did you notice yours right off the bat or at a later time?
 

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that’s good to hear as I had same issue being out by 180. Did you notice yours right off the bat or at a later time?
I put mine on not knowing, I had greased it with my finger before installing so it took a while before I developed a squeak.

When I took it off to inspect it I noticed it was off. I know it didn’t spin and could tell it was off from the start, because after closer inspection I noticed the grease squeeze out was between the bushing and the brace instead of between the bushing and the pitman nut sleeve.

I contacted synergy, and showed them a pic, and they sent me a new brace and pitman nut. Synergy stepped up for me and I appreciated their customer service. FWIW this was all before covid crisis.
 

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A few appropriate four letter words, a floor jack, jack stand, and a little bit of heat from a torch and the back allen head screw came out.

You can see the hole is about 3/8" out of alignment.

I don't see the bushing lasting long without seals. But hey, I didn't notice this support doing anything for my steering either.

Drilling rather than pressing out and back in.

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