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Synergy Jeep JL / JLU / JT Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace

plex

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whew... had me sweating bullets for a moment.
i switched to the Yeti a few weeks ago with no problems doing the switch out.
Last thing I want to do is find i’m missing hardware 1/2 way into the job.
Thanks for the clarification
NP, if you are closed to SW Ohio and I can help you put it on, but since you are by the lake...
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Rdmitch

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NP, if you are closed to SW Ohio and I can help you put it on, but since you are by the lake...
yeah, kind of a long haul. Local mechanic that’s a friend of my wife is gonna do it up for me. He never did one before but we went thru the required tool list and he has everything needed. Full automotive garage. We will follow the video step by step. Only hitting me for $50.00 and lunch. Local big box place that sells stuff for Jeeps wanted to get $400.00 to install and align...and that did not include the part ! Sorry not for a hour job.

Thanks for the offer and just want to let you know how very much I appreciate you making that offer. Really is nice when forum members reach out to each other and offer help. That’s how things should be.
 

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yeah, kind of a long haul. Local mechanic that’s a friend of my wife is gonna do it up for me. He never did one before but we went thru the required tool list and he has everything needed. Full automotive garage. We will follow the video step by step. Only hitting me for $50.00 and lunch. Local big box place that sells stuff for Jeeps wanted to get $400.00 to install and align...and that did not include the part ! Sorry not for a hour job.

Thanks for the offer and just want to let you know how very much I appreciate you making that offer. Really is nice when forum members reach out to each other and offer help. That’s how things should be.
There’s a couple things I recommend that’s not on the instructions......check and make sure the hole in the brass bushing is in line with grease fitting hole. And grease the bushing real good with your finger before installing sector shaft brace onto pitman arm nut. Once installed give it half pump of grease turn wheels back and forth several times ( not just once like ponytail does) and then hit it with another pump.
 

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Installed both today, and glad I studied this thread, as I ran into a few issues. Pitman nut loosened easily but some heat was required to get past the loctite crud. Three main issues:

- The Allen head screw on the aluminum brace was hard to access and I may have slightly stripped it as I can’t get the Allen wrench to seat into the bolt again and it’s a pain to get an Allen wrench into that area. Luckily it was tightened before this became an issue but I’ll have to address it if I need to remove the pitman nut for any reason - really wish Synergy would avoid using Allen heads. The larger one on the brace was not a problem.

- the Front track bar hole did not line up and no amount of adjustments would work. There was about 1/8” of the factory brace in the way on one side, so I reluctantly used a step drill to remove a small portion of the obstructing OEM brace and it worked great - no cutting the Synergy brace. No issues after that.

- the stock track bar would not fit back into the frame mount as the bottom of the factory frame brace tapered ever so inward on the rear side and wasn’t flush with the Synergy bracket. I tried everything- pounding a punch to push it out, using pry bars, pounding the stock track bar to force it in. Nada. Happily I had earlier purchased the Synergy front track bar and with light persuasion, it popped in and pushed the walls of the frame brace flat against the Synergy brace. I was Planning on waiting until i installed the Stage 1 kit I bought before installing the Synergy track bar so I only had to adjust the track bar once when lifted, but glad I had it on hand. Not sure what I would’ve done otherwise - maybe try to pound a wood block or something.

I blamed the last two Issues on Jeep, as the Synergy wasn’t defective.
What should have been a 2 hour install took 5-6 hours, mostly fighting to get the damn holes aligned and the track bar back in.

But it’s done and I did a 10 mile loop including the freeway. Pretty impressed - the wandering and dead spots are mostly gone and the Jeep doesn’t require constant minute corrections. It’s just firm and solid feeling. So the aggravation and swearing were worth it.

Now onto the lift kit, then the steering kit. I think it should go a lot easier. I did add front links to compliment the Synergy rear links that come with the kit, and added the rear tracI bar too - as well as the rear relocation bracket as this should add more Firmness in the rear.
 
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mysto

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I don't wanna scare anyone from doing this mod, but I had a tough time getting the track bar bolt holes to line up.
Mine didn't line up at first, but after I added all the bolts in and some deadblow taps it magically aligned before I tightened them. Did my tightening with the trackbar bolt in there,
 

mysto

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Everything was pretty straight forward but I noticed a huge gap between the pitman arm collar and the brace.

IMG_0028.jpg
Mine looked like that at first, but as I kept tightening the two bolts they pulled the ears together. More or less as @Hudson suggest in a few posts.
 

Aceman

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Mine looked like that at first, but as I kept tightening the two bolts they pulled the ears together. More or less as @Hudson suggest in a few posts.
Cool thanks. I loosened everything and re-installed and realized I stripped the threads on the flat head screw side. I'm hoping I can just buy the sector shaft brace and not need to buy the whole thing again.
 

m3lover1

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Before you install yours, look to be sure that the hole in the brass bushing is in line with the grease fitting. Also, it’s not in the instructions, but you should grease bushing real good with finger before installing. It takes a lot of cycling of the steering lock to lock to get grease all the way around bushing, and this will help it not to stick before it does.
Bonkers. Wish I read this before installing mine. Lol.
 

m3lover1

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Installed both today, and glad I studied this thread, as I ran into a few issues. Pitman nut loosened easily but some heat was required to get past the loctite crud. Three main issues:

- The Allen head screw on the aluminum brace was hard to access and I may have slightly stripped it as I can’t get the Allen wrench to seat into the bolt again and it’s a pain to get an Allen wrench into that area. Luckily it was tightened before this became an issue but I’ll have to address it if I need to remove the pitman nut for any reason - really wish Synergy would avoid using Allen heads. The larger one on the brace was not a problem.

- the Front track bar hole did not line up and no amount of adjustments would work. There was about 1/8” of the factory brace in the way on one side, so I reluctantly used a step drill to remove a small portion of the obstructing OEM brace and it worked great - no cutting the Synergy brace. No issues after that.

- the stock track bar would not fit back into the frame mount as the bottom of the factory frame brace tapered ever so inward on the rear side and wasn’t flush with the Synergy bracket. I tried everything- pounding a punch to push it out, using pry bars, pounding the stock track bar to force it in. Nada. Happily I had purchased the Synergy front track bar and with light persuasion it popped in and pushed the walls of the frame brace flat against the Synergy brace. I was waiting until i installed the Stage 1 kit I bought to install the Synergy track bar, so I only to adjust the track bar once when lifted, but glad I had it on hand. Not sure what I would’ve done otherwise - maybe try to pound a wood block or something.

I blamed the last two Issues on Jeep, as the Synergy wasn’t defective.
What should have been a 2 hour install took 5-6 hours, mostly fighting to get the damn holes aligned and the track bar back in.

But it’s done and I did a 10 mile loop including the freeway. Pretty impressed - the wandering and dead spots are mostly gone and the Jeep doesn’t require constant minute corrections. It’s just firm and solid feeling. So the aggravation and swearing were worth it.

Now onto the lift kit, then the steering kit. I think it should go a lot easier. I did add front links to compliment the Synergy rear links that come with the kit, and added the rear tracI bar too - as well as the rear relocation bracket as this should add more Firmness in the rear.
I had installed this last weekend, or maybe the weekend before, on my uncle's JT first, then my JL. Both our pitman nuts were easy to remove using an impact driver. Install was pretty easy on the JT. Did have to grind off some welding like what the instructions had said on the trackbar mount. Had to enlarge on of the holes on the trackbar frame mount, we used a dremel to slowly grind some off. Everything else was pretty easy. Only the upper right bolt that goes into the steering box was really hard to tighten due to Metalcloak's springs being in the way, as it is dual rate.

On the JL that upper right bolt was easier to remove and tighten back, as the gapping on MC's shocks were larger compared to the JT. However, compared to the JT it was a bit tougher to install. Didn't have to grind off the welding on mine, but had to enlarge slighly the front track bar hole like yours, exact same issue. It was also tougher to tighten the bolt and tapered allen bolt to connect the sector shaft brace to the trackbar brace. It was also much tougher greasing mine compared to the JT. On the JT was able to give it a pump, and turn the steering wheel, pump again, and then noticed a little extra grease come out. On mine after one pump the trigger got real hard to squeeze, a bunch of grease came out from the fitting, and it was super hard removing the grease gun from the zerk. I did also make sure to look and see if the hole in the brass lined up, and it did. No noises at all, so maybe I was able to get a bit of grease in there. Tempted to try to remove the sector shaft brace and visually inspect it.

Lastly, I had a stupid hard time fitting the trackbar into the brace. Seemed like the trackbar mount got pinched a little and I couldn't fit the trackbar back in. Used pry bars, mallet, with and without wood block, ratchet straps, wouldn't work. Got so frustrated I wanted to catapult my Jeep to the damn moon. After hour or so I went to autozone and bought some silicone spray, and sprayed a bit on the bushings, and finally was able to mallet it in.

But overall I do feel a difference in the steering, the wandering seemed to be much better. Might be my head, but I seem to feel the wandering coming back, but it has been real windy these past couple days, and I still have to get my toe adjusted again, as after my tie rod install my alignment shop put the toe and toe out .8 degrees, so I'm sure that is part of the culprit. Will see after we bring it back down to around .4 to .5 degree toe out.
 

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I had installed this last weekend, or maybe the weekend before, on my uncle's JT first, then my JL. Both our pitman nuts were easy to remove using an impact driver. Install was pretty easy on the JT. Did have to grind off some welding like what the instructions had said on the trackbar mount. Had to enlarge on of the holes on the trackbar frame mount, we used a dremel to slowly grind some off. Everything else was pretty easy. Only the upper right bolt that goes into the steering box was really hard to tighten due to Metalcloak's springs being in the way, as it is dual rate.

On the JL that upper right bolt was easier to remove and tighten back, as the gapping on MC's shocks were larger compared to the JT. However, compared to the JT it was a bit tougher to install. Didn't have to grind off the welding on mine, but had to enlarge slighly the front track bar hole like yours, exact same issue. It was also tougher to tighten the bolt and tapered allen bolt to connect the sector shaft brace to the trackbar brace. It was also much tougher greasing mine compared to the JT. On the JT was able to give it a pump, and turn the steering wheel, pump again, and then noticed a little extra grease come out. On mine after one pump the trigger got real hard to squeeze, a bunch of grease came out from the fitting, and it was super hard removing the grease gun from the zerk. I did also make sure to look and see if the hole in the brass lined up, and it did. No noises at all, so maybe I was able to get a bit of grease in there. Tempted to try to remove the sector shaft brace and visually inspect it.

Lastly, I had a stupid hard time fitting the trackbar into the brace. Seemed like the trackbar mount got pinched a little and I couldn't fit the trackbar back in. Used pry bars, mallet, with and without wood block, ratchet straps, wouldn't work. Got so frustrated I wanted to catapult my Jeep to the damn moon. After hour or so I went to autozone and bought some silicone spray, and sprayed a bit on the bushings, and finally was able to mallet it in.

But overall I do feel a difference in the steering, the wandering seemed to be much better. Might be my head, but I seem to feel the wandering coming back, but it has been real windy these past couple days, and I still have to get my toe adjusted again, as after my tie rod install my alignment shop put the toe and toe out .8 degrees, so I'm sure that is part of the culprit. Will see after we bring it back down to around .4 to .5 degree toe out.
I didn't think to check the notes here on this thread as installed the bracket about 2 weeks ago went on a 2000 mile trip and then read that the grease port may not be aligned... Now i am questioning if it's lined up... When you buy something like this you expect it to be correct... I will probably remove that item and inspect to be sure things are lined up... What a pain as that one screw is in the back can be hard to reach... i did unscrew the zerk but due to the grease and angle it's hard to see... I may get my scope to look but prob just pull that part out and manually check...
 

DCBlake

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Bonkers. Wish I read this before installing mine. Lol.
I wish i had read this before installing 2 weeks ago... Oh well time to tear it out and check... Nothing like getting items you have to question the quality... I mean the welds and everything else great but a simple brass fitting not set correct when delivered come on...

I wonder why they decided to change specs for the bearing between JK and the new JL as the JK has roller bearings...

https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-jeep-jk-sector-shaft-brace.html

Jeep Wrangler JL Synergy Jeep JL / JLU / JT Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace 1591710267818
 
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Halstem1

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On the JL that upper right bolt was easier to remove and tighten back, as the gapping on MC's shocks were larger compared to the JT. However, compared to the JT it was a bit tougher to install. Didn't have to grind off the welding on mine, but had to enlarge slighly the front track bar hole like yours, exact same issue. It was also tougher to tighten the bolt and tapered allen bolt to connect the sector shaft brace to the trackbar brace. It was also much tougher greasing mine compared to the JT. On the JT was able to give it a pump, and turn the steering wheel, pump again, and then noticed a little extra grease come out. On mine after one pump the trigger got real hard to squeeze, a bunch of grease came out from the fitting, and it was super hard removing the grease gun from the zerk. I did also make sure to look and see if the hole in the brass lined up, and it did. No noises at all, so maybe I was able to get a bit of grease in there. Tempted to try to remove the sector shaft brace and visually inspect it.
For what it’s worth... I inspected mine before I installed and it was lined up. Like the easy one you did, I greased, turned side to side, and greased again. No problems and no noise. However.... at around 2k miles I started getting a lot of noise. Kept trying to grease and like you it was really hard and the grease fitting would get stuck. Tried half dozen times. Couple days later I took apart and the hole was no longer aligned. So not sure if it gets friction and moves or what. I was able to grease by hand and reinstall. Contacted synergy and they told me to remove the brass ring with a press, realign, and reinstall with red locktite.... I don’t have a press so not sure what to do.

Point of my story is just because it was lined up doesn’t mean it can’t move I guess. Kinda sucks. Not sure what to do.
 

Windshieldfarmer

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That’s not a viable solution. Seems like a defect and Synergy should send you a replacement. Not too many people have a press sitting around in a garage. Also not sure why it would need to be lubed more than once or twice per year. I like the improvements to steering feel, but the aluminum steering brace will be removed if these types of problems occur.
 

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For what it’s worth... I inspected mine before I installed and it was lined up. Like the easy one you did, I greased, turned side to side, and greased again. No problems and no noise. However.... at around 2k miles I started getting a lot of noise. Kept trying to grease and like you it was really hard and the grease fitting would get stuck. Tried half dozen times. Couple days later I took apart and the hole was no longer aligned. So not sure if it gets friction and moves or what. I was able to grease by hand and reinstall. Contacted synergy and they told me to remove the brass ring with a press, realign, and reinstall with red locktite.... I don’t have a press so not sure what to do.

Point of my story is just because it was lined up doesn’t mean it can’t move I guess. Kinda sucks. Not sure what to do.
Wow. I'd kinda expect a sorry about that, what's your address for shipping another part and some stickers. I read the response as "sucks to be you, good luck"
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