Synergy Jeep JL / JLU / JT Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace

[oceanblue2019]

Thanks for the info, where did you get the socket head bolt? Hoping they might have it at Ace Hardware.

https://www.albanycountyfasteners.com/Flat-Socket-Head-1-2-13-Screw-304-Stainless-Steel-p/51000.htm

Albany will have whatever you need.

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[4xFUN]

Thanks for the info, where did you get the socket head bolt? Hoping they might have it at Ace Hardware.

I could find no one in Arizona that stocked this, you can order online from McMaster-Carr and I am including a screen shot from their website with the part number, price and details.

PS: You must use a fastener with a profile such as this and cannot use a 'flathead' countersunk screw. The only reason for countersinking the inside of the Synergy brace (use a 3/4" countersink-not a unibit/step bit) is to make sure the shoulder of the socket head screw does not come in contact with the Synergy brace and prevent proper alignment & tightening of the brace.

 

[Moto_21]

Word of advice, i was having terrible creaking noise from my steering, i took the brace apart, there was no grease in it, even though i grease it once a month. The bronze bushing had spun inside and the hole opening was on the opposite side so no grease could get through. In turn it being dry was grabbing on the pitman arm nut and loosening it and binding a bit causing the creak.
I had to press the bushing out and line the holes back up and press it back in. Not a big deal but worth noting. I marked where the holes are on the outside so i can monitor if it still spins. @AllJumpStyle

 

[plex]

Word of advice, i was having terrible creaking noise from my steering, i took the brace apart, there was no grease in it, even though i grease it once a month. The bronze bushing had spun inside and the hole opening was on the opposite side so no grease could get through. In turn it being dry was grabbing on the pitman arm nut and loosening it and binding a bit causing the creak.
I had to press the bushing out and line the holes back up and press it back in. Not a big deal but worth noting. I marked where the holes are on the outside so i can monitor if it still spins. @AllJumpStyle

Thank you, can you take a picture so we know which bushing you are talking about?

 

[oceanblue2019]

Thank you, can you take a picture so we know which bushing you are talking about?

There is one bushing in the steering brace.... and only one bronze bushing in all of the Synergy parts for the JL.

This is sort of a redundant question that anyone who's installed or looked at the web sheets for these parts would be aware of.....

 

[Moto_21]

Thank you, can you take a picture so we know which bushing you are talking about?

The only bronze bushing on the brace

 

[SilverRubi]

Word of advice, i was having terrible creaking noise from my steering, i took the brace apart, there was no grease in it, even though i grease it once a month. The bronze bushing had spun inside and the hole opening was on the opposite side so no grease could get through. In turn it being dry was grabbing on the pitman arm nut and loosening it and binding a bit causing the creak.
I had to press the bushing out and line the holes back up and press it back in. Not a big deal but worth noting. I marked where the holes are on the outside so i can monitor if it still spins. @AllJumpStyle

Now I wonder if mine was like that. I wasn't able to get hardly any grease in mine. Maybe 1/8 of a pump. No grease showed around the edge of the bushing.

 

[Moto_21]

Now I wonder if mine was like that. I wasn't able to get hardly any grease in mine. Maybe 1/8 of a pump. No grease showed around the edge of the bushing.

Its possible, thats how mine was

 

[plex]

So I am ready to install it this weekend, anything I need to know before hand? Watched some videos and I got the 6-points 42 mm impact, extension, air wrench, breaker bar and pipe, grease gun and red goo, six pack beers.

 

[TRZ]

So I am ready to install it this weekend, anything I need to know before hand? Watched some videos and I got the 6-points 42 mm impact, extension, air wrench, breaker bar and pipe, grease gun and red goo, six pack beers.

Propane torch in case you need heat.

 

[plex]

Propane torch in case you need heat.

Well I get my heat gun ready, but hopefully like someone said the factory only went crazy on red loctite after MY19, mine is an 18.

 

[4xFUN]

Well I get my heat gun ready, but hopefully like someone said the factory only went crazy on red loctite after MY19, mine is an 18.

Mine is a 20' and I just used a standard 1/2" breaker bar and broke free easily for the first turn...then I needed a propane torch to heat the nut! I also used a small, clean brass brush to clear the pitman arm threads-lots of goobers on mine.

The other thing is to make sure you have something snug going through both sides of the track bar mount during installation / tightening! The bolt that comes with the kit is better than nothing but if you have a longer bolt with an extended smooth shank or a snug-fitting through punch, that is much better-if you are having trouble removing the bolt out after tightening, you are not properly aligned.

 

[plex]

Mine is a 20' and I just used a standard 1/2" breaker bar and broke free easily for the first turn...then I needed a propane torch to heat the nut! I also used a small, clean brass brush to clear the pitman arm threads-lots of goobers on mine.

The other thing is to make sure you have something snug going through both sides of the track bar mount during installation / tightening! The bolt that comes with the kit is better than nothing but if you have a longer bolt with an extended smooth shank or a snug-fitting through punch, that is much better-if you are having trouble removing the bolt out after tightening, you are not properly aligned.

Thanks man, I have stage 4 OCD so misaligned things will send me to ER, and right now ER is not the place I want to be.

 

[laraza2k1]

The other thing is to make sure you have something snug going through both sides of the track bar mount during installation / tightening! The bolt that comes with the kit is better than nothing but if you have a longer bolt with an extended smooth shank or a snug-fitting through punch, that is much better-if you are having trouble removing the bolt out after tightening, you are not properly aligned.

I don't wanna scare anyone from doing this mod, but I had a tough time getting the track bar bolt holes to line up. I tightened it, I loosened it, I beat on it with a hammer but the holes would never line up. What I finally ended up having to do was use a step bit to enlarge the hole (about 1/8 larger) on the actual frame so the bolt would finally go thru. I figured no harm since the Synergy bracket would be what the track bar was actually using for support and fastening. But still it was a little disheartening I was having so much trouble. I watched countless installation videos and noted some had to tap it in or use a impact, but none seemed to have the issue that I was encountering.

Oh and for the pitman nut, mine broke fairly easy (to my surprise) and once I got about half-way, it started to get tight from the thread locker but nothing you couldn't handle with a ratchet

 

[Roky]

Well I get my heat gun ready, but hopefully like someone said the factory only went crazy on red loctite after MY19, mine is an 18.

Mine is an ‘18 as well, my pitman nut came right off. I used this.....

It really didn’t stand a chance, this thing is no joke..... I too. like you, was ready for a fight, after reading some horror stories, but about 5-6 hammers and she spun right off. Kinda anticlimactic in a way. .... A couple small tips, put your old track bar bolt in before you torque down the steering box bolts, it will save you some trouble later.
Also grease the brass bushing real good with your finger , it takes a lot of cycling the steering back and forth to get the grease all the way around.
And look to make sure the hole in the brass bushing is lined up with the grease zerk ..... you’ll be fine with that arsenal, no worries.........

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