Synergy Jeep JL / JLU / JT Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace

[Headbarcode]

The JK version of the brace does use a roller bearing. The challenge is the JL has less space so they went with the bushing.

Yeah, I've read in the past about the JL having less front end elbow room than the JK. That's why I would stick with the same outer dimensions of the existing aluminum brace.

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[Headbarcode]

This is coming from a college student so bear with me n


But can one not implement the roller bearing into the aluminum brace to replace the bushing if space is a constraint? I’m not sure behind all the r&d behind widening the aluminum brace itself but imagining it, it definitely seems doable.

No one's said anything about widening the aluminum brace. If it was made out of steel, it could be made to the same outer dimensions, but with a bigger hole for a thicker walled bushing.

After seeing that pic of the JK brace, I'm left wondering why Synergy didn't carry that over to the JL. It appears to have an overall smaller profile than the aluminum version

 

[CarbonSteel]

Very easy. The same outer profile of the brace, but take advantage of the steel being stronger than aluminum and end up with a thinner wall to allow for a thicker bronze bushing. The thicker bronze would allow a shallow radial groove to be lathed in line with the grease fitting. This would help a lot with grease distribution.

I would also opt to modify the reinforcement side of the part to have 2 bolts per side of the brace, for both a stronger friction joint and to keep the brace level with the Pittman arm nut.

The only complication involved would be arranging a sit down with key people at Synergy, to find out the full mentality of there product. From initial design to a tangible product, than their test parameters and results that lead them to a final product. That's a wealth of information that would dictate, or at least suggest, a good starting point.

I was thinking more of a person who is handy with fabrication doing this versus working with Synergy. From what I have read they are not the best to work with for items they should be supporting much less approaching them with a complete revamp.

I would be willing to cough up some coin to have it built exactly as you have described (much thicker bushing, better interference fit, radial grease groove).

 

[Headbarcode]

I was thinking more of a person who is handy with fabrication doing this versus working with Synergy. From what I have read they are not the best to work with for items they should be supporting much less approaching them with a complete revamp.

I would be willing to cough up some coin to have it built exactly as you have described (much thicker bushing, better interference fit, radial grease groove).

Oh, I was just trying to answer your question about how hard it would be. Dealing with them would be the only possible hard part. The fabrication is just simple measuring, blueprinting, planning the sequence of operations, and time in front of the machines. After that, it's guinea pig time.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Oh, I was just trying to answer your question about how hard it would be. Dealing with them would be the only possible hard part. The fabrication is just simple measuring, blueprinting, planning the sequence of operations, and time in front of the machines. After that, it's guinea pig time.

Know anyone who can do this?

 

[Headbarcode]

Know anyone who can do this?

I'll admit, I get more and more curious about it with every post in this thread. I don't have cnc machines available for my own use anymore. Just the manual lathe and milling machine that I used to spend a lot of time in front of. I might sit down with this, once my winter off season hits and I have the time.

 

[Cl2775]

just installed the track bar bracket and sector shaft brace today and noticed there is a gap probably less than a 1/8 of an inch between the brace and the frame. Any of you had this issue?

 

[Cookie Monster]

just installed the track bar bracket and sector shaft brace today and noticed there is a gap probably less than a 1/8 of an inch between the brace and the frame. Any of you had this issue?

Are you referring to the gap caused by the extra metal around the holes for clearance? See pics below. Once installed it would look like a gap, but really the smaller metal portion sits flat against the frame. I was able to install the upper part of the brace flush to the frame.

 

[Cl2775]

Are you referring to the gap caused by the extra metal around the holes for clearance? See pics below. Once installed it would look like a gap, but really the smaller metal portion sits flat against the frame. I was able to install the upper part of the brace flush to the frame.

No I was referring to the sector shaft brace the upper part. See attached photo. everything were tightened to the spec, and there is still a gap, it was not sitting flush to the frame at all. Really frustrated....thought it was gonna improve the hell out of the steering after watching and reading a ton of reviews but seems like it made it worse, feeling more shimmy when hitting a pothole or bump at around 25mph and above

 

[Cl2775]

No I was referring to the sector shaft brace the upper part. See attached photo. everything were tightened to the spec, and there is still a gap, it was not sitting flush to the frame at all. Really frustrated....thought it was gonna improve the hell out of the steering after watching and reading a ton of reviews but seems like it made it worse, feeling more shimmy when hitting a pothole or bump at around 25mph and above

Forgot to include the photo, but here you go

 

[Roky]

Forgot to include the photo, but here you go

If you acquire a squeak or a click when you turn the wheels, it’s probably because your brace isn’t pushed up all the way. The pitman arm bolt should be flush or be a hair lower than the brass bushing . The way it is in the picture, it’s more likely to bind on you. Should look more like this....

 

[Cl2775]

If you acquire a squeak or a click when you turn the wheels, it’s probably because your brace isn’t pushed up all the way. The pitman arm bolt bolt should be flush or be a hair lower than the brass bushing . The way it is in the picture, it’s more likely to bind on you. Should look more like this....

I do see a gap from your photo as well I guess that’s normal? Thanks for pointing this out, I’m not sure if I can push the brace all the way up as it would not align with the holes on the bracket.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Forgot to include the photo, but here you go

I overlooked your screwdriver in the photo until you posted about Roky's. I thought that you were talking about the gap on the bevel-headed screw. Is that tight on your brace? There should not be a gap there.

 

[Cl2775]

I overlooked your screwdriver in the photo until you posted about Roky's. I thought that you were talking about the gap on the bevel-headed screw. Is that tight on your brace? There should not be a gap there.

Yup everything were tighten to the spec, the photo was taken before I tightened everything, but there is still a gap after tighten everything up. I guess that’s just how it supposed to be? Now I’m a little more concerned about the brace is not pushed all the way up (what Roky said), I do not hear any binding noises when driving but I guess I’ll have to look from underneath to be sure.

 

[Roky]

Yup everything were tighten to the spec, the photo was taken before I tightened everything, but there is still a gap after tighten everything up. I guess that’s just how it supposed to be? Now I’m a little more concerned about the brace is not pushed all the way up (what Roky said), I do not hear any binding noises when driving but I guess I’ll have to look from underneath to be sure.

Im not saying you’ll have an issue for sure the way it is, but if you were to hold the nut and brace in your hand and spin the nut you can push in side ways as your turning and it will grab, if in all the way it’s harder for side ways pressure to be applied. This is just some information I’ve a acquired messing with this thing quite a bit lately. Also that Allen button head screw needs to be tight against the bushing , it keeps the bushing from wanting to work itself downward.

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