Swayloc or Antirock?

[SpookyXJ]

Just bought a 2 door JL Sport S with the auto tranny and I'm trying to decide what to do with the suspension. I'm pretty sure I want a Dynatrac 2" lift, Rubicon or aftermarket high clearance fenders, and 35's. I'm eventually going to 37's and will do 4.88's and arb lockers. Planning on regearing the M220 rear and swaping the front for a Dynatrac pro rock 44.

I'd like to have a dual rate swaybar, something I can disconnect from the cab or that requires no input. Currently the only dual rate I've seen for the JL is the ORO Swaylock. I've seen a lot of mixed reviews on their torsion bar durability and constant parts revisions so you may not be able to get a replacement if something breaks. Anyone here running one of these on a Jl and if so how do you like it?

I would love to go with a Currie antirock but I'm worried I won't like it on road while towing. I have a 1000 lb teardrop camper. I would love to hear feedback from someone who has towed a light trailer with this swaybar.

my last choice would be a factory Rubicon swaybar but I don't like the cost and don't trust the durability of the electronics. Has anyone made an air actuated retrofit for the JL swaybar yet like the Evo no limits or TTO kit for the JK?

Any other choices out there that I'm missing? I'd really rather not do quick disconnects this time.

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[Arterius2]

How would you go about to install the factory rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect? I’m interested in this but last I heard it isn’t really a viable option due to the electronic systems involved and all. At least no one that I’m aware of has done it yet.

 

[SpookyXJ]

How would you go about to install the factory rubicon electronic sway bar disconnect? I’m interested in this but last I heard it isn’t really a viable option due to the electronic systems involved and all. At least no one that I’m aware of has done it yet.

Saw a post from rockkrawaler saying this was doable. You also replied in that thread so maybe its not. I'd really rather not go this route unless someone does an aftermarket air actuator.

 

[brianP]

I would not recommend the Rubicon disconnect even if it can be done, I have it and I am actually considering either an antirock or a manual disconnect because I already have issues with the thing disconnecting properly or I have to get out to push the vehicle side to side to get it to disconnect because it isnt perfectly level. Real PITA

I would be interested to hear from anyone running the antirock and how it rides on the road as mine is and always will be a daily driver so I have to consider that and we are also looking at hauling a teardrop in the near future as well

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Just bought a 2 door JL Sport S with the auto tranny and I'm trying to decide what to do with the suspension. I'm pretty sure I want a Dynatrac 2" lift, Rubicon or aftermarket high clearance fenders, and 35's. I'm eventually going to 37's and will do 4.88's and arb lockers. Planning on regearing the M220 rear and swaping the front for a Dynatrac pro rock 44.

Very similar to our 2 door Sport S auto. It was M200 rear swapped to M220 with factory locker, Pro Rock 44 front, 3.5" springs, Nemesis fenders, 37's. We are running conventional disconnects but there's a ton of merit in easier disconnects.

 

[SpookyXJ]

Good looking Jeep. I like the Nemesis flares. What are you doing for sidemarkers/turns? I think I see a round led tucked up in the fenderwell. Do you have aftermarket headlights with turns?

 

[Rock Krawler Suspension]

Good looking Jeep. I like the Nemesis flares. What are you doing for sidemarkers/turns? I think I see a round led tucked up in the fenderwell. Do you have aftermarket headlights with turns?

It has none right now. These Nemesis flares were some of their first sets and they didn't have a provision for turns/side markers, current production now does for them. I may swap headlights and add them into there. So far, we haven't been stopped driving it but it certainly is a nuisance for us and other drivers, although this one doesn't get a ton of road miles.

 

[JimLee]

If you are going to offroad hard with larger tires you should be airing down anyway, fill the time waiting with manual disconnects that take 20 seconds. Takes a little longer to reconnect, but so does airing up. Or you can wait for someone to come out with aftermarket air disconnects, that's way too many moving parts for me for something so simple. I agree with avoiding Mopar setup.

 

[SpookyXJ]

Finally got everything installed for the Swayloc and thought I would give my initial impressions.

On the highway:
With both bars locked its a much more sporty feel a lot tighter in the corners. I like how it makes the jeep handle. With just the soft rate bar it feels slightly softer than the stock sway bar. There is a little more body roll but it's not much different than the stock sway bar on the street. I have not hauled my camper with it yet but expect it to be an improvement.

Off road: Both bars locked on rough unmaintained dirt roads it's not much different than stock. It's little stiffer but not unpleasant. The soft rate bar is a lot more compliant and pleasant at slower speeds. I like both bars locked at high speed washboard surfaces.

Flex seems decent but there is not much to crawl on around here. I took it through some washouts that I had trouble climbing with the stock tires and it went right up and through it like nothing was there but that's partly the tires.

A couple of poser shots bar unlocked. Not much to crawl around on around here:

Installation was pretty straightforward with the most difficult part being pressing the arms on the torsion bars.

At full droop.

Installation is a bit different than the JK. Instead of spacers on the outside the bar is held centered by 2 locking collars on the inside of the brackets.

Rough Country MLC-6 for the switches. So far I really like the ability to change rates on the fly for different road conditions. If the airline fails the bar is automatically in the locked position. The air cylinder is spring loaded. If needed you can prop the cylinder open with a nut or a bit of something if you want it open manually in the event of an air failure.

ARB twin compressor under the seat with JK innovations mount.

Concept customs locker manifold with the ORO solenoid 1/8" NPT used a 1/4" to 1/8" reducer.

Really enjoying it so far. Time will tell on the durability.

 

[SpookyXJ]

Thought I would add this here for anyone considering a Swayloc with Synergys track bar brace. The 2 parts are incompatible. The arm and actuator will not clear the brace. You could flip the sway bar over and run the actuator on the passenger side to gain more clearance but I would still have to grind off part of the brace just not as much plus I really did not want to order more airline to reach from the other side of the jeep. Here is how much I took off to make the parts clear each other. I also can't run the bolt in the lower hole on the bracket as it hits the sway bar link mount.

I also shifted the bar over slightly to the driver side but was uncomfortable with how it sat if I moved it over far enough to clear.

 

[Squire]

Thought I would add this here for anyone considering a Swayloc with Synergys track bar brace. The 2 parts are incompatible. The arm and actuator will not clear the brace. You could flip the sway bar over and run the actuator on the passenger side to gain more clearance but I would still have to grind off part of the brace just not as much plus I really did not want to order more airline to reach from the other side of the jeep. Here is how much I took off to make the parts clear each other. I also can't run the bolt in the lower hole on the bracket as it hits the sway bar link mount.

I also shifted the bar over slightly to the driver side but was uncomfortable with how it sat if I moved it over far enough to clear.

Do you think it would work if ORO would make longer torsion bars to clear the bracket, or will that cause the arm and actuator to contact the spring. I too was planning to go that route but with a manual lever.

 

[SpookyXJ]

Yes or the arms would need a dog leg to kick them out a bit further.

After driving this thing for a while kinda wish I would have gone Currie. Once I got used to it I prefer the softer rate bar on the street. I have not gone long distance with my trailer yet but think it would be fine with the softer rate. I think the rear sway bar rate needs to be a bit stiffer to match the heavier rate on the swayloc.

 

[Squire]

Yes or the arms would need a dog leg to kick them out a bit further.

After driving this thing for a while kinda wish I would have gone Currie. Once I got used to it I prefer the softer rate bar on the street. I have not gone long distance with my trailer yet but think it would be fine with the softer rate. I think the rear sway bar rate needs to be a bit stiffer to match the heavier rate on the swayloc.

My wife has the swayloc on her 2018 JK, she loves it. We don't have any problems towing our trailer. I would like to install the swayloc on my JT. I may contact ORO and ask if they are aware of the compatibility issue. It seems they will lose a lot of income to this problem for I to am going to purchase the Synergy sector shaft brace.

 

[SpookyXJ]

I doubt they will retool to make it compatible with an aftermarket part. You could get more clearance on the drivers side if put the actuator on the passenger side. Probably still have to grind some off the brace but nowhere near as much.

On the trailer I bought the swayloc because I thought the antirock would be too soft on the street with the trailer. I find I like the soft rate of the swayloc more on the street and don't think handling with my camper is unmanageable. It's only about 1400lbs fully loaded though.

 

[Squire]

I doubt they will retool to make it compatible with an aftermarket part. You could get more clearance on the drivers side if put the actuator on the passenger side. Probably still have to grind some off the brace but nowhere near as much.

On the trailer I bought the swayloc because I thought the antirock would be too soft on the street with the trailer. I find I like the soft rate of the swayloc more on the street and don't think handling with my camper is unmanageable. It's only about 1400lbs fully loaded though.

I contacted Steve from ORO. He said they can send you a TJ torsion bar as a replacement. you will gain 1" in length.

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