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Same thing on the 3.6, except the new "stock" is +/-25 lb-ft more than the old baseline.

TD3 dyno
JL_JT3_6-1024x576.png


TD2 dyno
2020_JT_Dyno.png
Agreed for a company as Superchips their Dyno charts leave something to be desired, they definitely do not look good? Superchips WHY don’t you post the actual Dyno charts showing the A/F ratios as well??
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What's going on with the "stock" 2.0 dyno chart? It looks about 50 lb-ft lower than the peak on your baseline dyno. Also did you really raise the redline to 6000 RPM (with a power bump above 5750)?

TD3 dyno
JL_20T-1024x576.png


Baseline dyno
2020_JL_2L_Stock-1-1536x830.jpg
Different vehicles on different days, different gearing or wheel tire setups, all of these factor in to why they all look different.

The before/after charts we publish are done on the same vehicle on the same dyno, on the same day.

Thanks
 

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question
After replacing the original PCM with DiabloSport PCM
I received a P1400 manufacturer code
Does the same phenomenon happen to you too?
What vehicle was this, and when did you get the PCM from us?
 

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Thanks for the news, I’ve actually been holding off on purchasing a new 2021 Rubicon until I was sure Superchips latest kit was fully compatible as this will be the first mod I do.

That said, I’m in the UK and imagine there may be a couple of differences to the US version you test in house. Are you able to confirm if the the TD3 is fully compatible with the 2021 2.0 Rubicon that they release in the UK?

Thank you,
Rick
You should not have any issues with the Euro model on the TD3. Everything will be compatible ;)
 
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That looks awesome!!

Can I use the same custom mount I have for the TD2, are the rear tab holes the same?

Will it be able to use a 3rd party backup camera like the TD2? The EAS version is cool but it wont work with my oversized spare / bike rack.

Thanks!!
Yes, the TD3 uses the same mount and even OBD-II to HDMI cable, so all of that will be interchangeable.

As for the backup-up camera, any camera will work, but we've gone away from the RCA input on the back of the device and it's all done through the HDMI now, so you'll need our new conversion harness, part number 98107.
 

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What's going on with the "stock" 2.0 dyno chart? It looks about 50 lb-ft lower than the peak on your baseline dyno. Also did you really raise the redline to 6000 RPM (with a power bump above 5750)?
We have two separate facilities, one in Ogden, UT and one in Sanford, FL and our dyno testing results on vehicles in the fleet can vary depending time of year, elevation, humidity, etc... This is why we try to focus on the actual gains and the improvement to the curves with our devices, not the actual numbers. Different dynos will always generate different numbers, but the gains should be consistent.
 

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Different vehicles on different days, different gearing or wheel tire setups, all of these factor in to why they all look different.

The before/after charts we publish are done on the same vehicle on the same dyno, on the same day.

Thanks
We have two separate facilities, one in Ogden, UT and one in Sanford, FL and our dyno testing results on vehicles in the fleet can vary depending time of year, elevation, humidity, etc... This is why we try to focus on the actual gains and the improvement to the curves with our devices, not the actual numbers. Different dynos will always generate different numbers, but the gains should be consistent.
Isn't that what the correction factor is for?

The higher graph is from your old post shows a Rubicon (absolute worst case scenario), and I highly doubt that any other stock gear/tire combinations would produce less HP & torque. Even it it was Rubicon vs. Rubicon, I would expect that the correction factor would get them closer than 50 lb-ft difference. I mean, even the new tuned graph is 17 lb-ft lower than the old baseline.


Also the new baseline starting 600 RPM later than the tuned... yeah.



Edit: Never mind, the 3.6 in the article is the Rubicon, but the 2.0 doesn't mention trim level. Still want to know why the new dyno starts 600 RPM later on the baseline though.
 
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Mike@Powerteq

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Isn't that what the correction factor is for?

The higher graph is from your old post shows a Rubicon (absolute worst case scenario), and I highly doubt that any other stock gear/tire combinations would produce less HP & torque. Even it it was Rubicon vs. Rubicon, I would expect that the correction factor would get them closer than 50 lb-ft difference. I mean, even the new tuned graph is 17 lb-ft lower than the old baseline.


Also the new baseline starting 600 RPM later than the tuned... yeah.



Edit: Never mind, the 3.6 in the article is the Rubicon, but the 2.0 doesn't mention trim level. Still want to know why the new dyno starts 600 RPM later on the baseline though.
Its likely that it was started as low as it could with the stock tune without downshifting. Its not uncommon to be able to start the pull a little sooner with the tune due to the increased torque available. Nothing nefarious here. The gains are legit and have been validated across multiple vehicles.
 

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Do you have a full list of features?
I'm curious what it can do compared to the Tazer. Also curious if it improves throttle response in addition to adding hp&torque.
Full list of features will vary based on your model year, but you can see that under the 'features' tab on our website once you fill out the vehicle configurator.

And yes, throttle response is adjusted in our pre-calibrated tunes, but we also offer you the ability to fine tune that yourself with 0-25% throttle sensitivity adjustment.
 

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Its likely that it was started as low as it could with the stock tune without downshifting. Its not uncommon to be able to start the pull a little sooner with the tune due to the increased torque available. Nothing nefarious here. The gains are legit and have been validated across multiple vehicles.
Starting the pull at different RPMs will absolutely change when it builds boost.

I'm also pretty sure my JL will hold any gear as long as you don't go below 1500 RPM.
 

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Starting the pull at different RPMs will absolutely change when it builds boost.

I'm also pretty sure my JL will hold any gear as long as you don't go below 1500 RPM.
It will get into boost sooner, but boost output is 100% torque demand based, so its not going to somehow make more total boost by starting earlier unless more torque is demanded by pedal input in the calibration.

These tunes have been out for over a year now, and I'm sure someone has done some independent testing to see the gains on their specific vehicle, I just don't have any of that data on hand to share at this time.

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It will get into boost sooner, but boost output is 100% torque demand based, so its not going to somehow make more total boost by starting earlier unless more torque is demanded by pedal input in the calibration.
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So when does it hit peak boost? 1300 RPM after going WOT?

Stock pull starts @ 2500 RPM, peak torque @ 3800 (1300 RPM difference)
Tuned pull starts @ 2000 RPM, peak torque @ 3300 (1300 RPM difference)

I know I'm over simplifying it, but that's why it would just be best practice to start both pulls at the same RPM especially on engines with a turbo. Because of this I don't think it's even worth comparing anything below peak torque of baseline pull, which is almost half of the chart.

Edit: I realize the different Jeeps/gearing/tires/temperature/atmosphere/etc. can influence performance, but look at the curve difference of the baseline pulls that Superchips has released.

Jeep Wrangler JL Superchips Releases TrailDash 3 For JL Superchips Baseline Comparison (1)
 
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Its likely that it was started as low as it could with the stock tune without downshifting. Its not uncommon to be able to start the pull a little sooner with the tune due to the increased torque available. Nothing nefarious here. The gains are legit and have been validated across multiple vehicles.
I'm also pretty sure my JL will hold any gear as long as you don't go below 1500 RPM.
Just confirmed 4th gear (1.67:1) @ WOT below 1500 RPM won't downshift (in manual mode), which is over 1000 RPM lower than the baseline pull. Both the Rubicon & Sport will not hit the speed limiter in 4th gear. The Sport & Sahara will hit the speed limiter in 5th (1.29:1), and the Rubicon might in 5th also... it's close. 3rd gear will unlock the torque converter below 1500 RPM but I was able to get it to stay locked @ WOT & 1500 RPM. In my opinion everybody should be using 4th for all dyno pull for the 2.0 (in every trim level), and there is no reason not to go below 2500 RPM. Like Mishimoto.
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