Stripped a bolt.. f what do I do????

karynm8621

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one thing to consider if you're going to use a screw extractor set is to use a left handed drill bit. Sometimes when you're drill it will break the screw loose and the left handed bit allows for that screw direction





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I recently saw a video online wherein a thick rubber band was put between the screwdriver and stripped screwhead.

That made me think that a small dollop of 5-minute steel-reinforced epoxy putty could work, too. I was thinking you could use plastic wrap between the epoxy putty and the Torx-bit or Allen wrench tool to make a tool impression, but probably a drop of water is enough to keep the tool from sticking when you use it to make an impression on the epoxy putty.
 

swozey

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I've had a stripped bolt stopping me from finishing the install of my tire carrier mount for 6 months so don't feel bad. Finally ordered an extraction kit thanks to this thread. Now my bolts are rusting so I really need to get them out (if you buy any chinese "jeep" stuff off amazon make sure to replace the bolt hardware).
 

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I second the weld-on-a-nut trick. Use a 220 Volt welder as they generate heat better.
Tape off the painted area around the bolt

If possible, place a barrier (thin sheet metal) between the nut and the paint. If possible, have the nut stand off paint a small amount to reduce the amount of heat transfer to the paint.

Have a wrench ready to go as soon as the welding has stopped to remove the welded on nut.

If there is not enough room for a nut, try to weld on a small piece of steel tubing to the fastener, then weld a nut onto the other end of the steel tubing.

Good luck.
 

Rhinebeck01

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@Paulocon
@swozey

Do you or your family have a local, small auto body repair place that you deal with or maybe you know a guy that works there..... regardless, stop by and ask a local body shop, for a price to remove the stripped bolt for you.... They deal with such things all the time and will have it out in short order. Sure, you will pay a few bucks but........

When doing this type of thing in the future, you are better off going out and getting you own, known to be within US specs hardware and only using that. Also, proper tool size and quality of the tools you use is also important.
 

D60

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I'd just start drilling with LH bits

I would not use carbide - it's crazy expensive and chips easily when used in a non-rigid machine (like your arms). I'd use quality HSS (not Chinese)

Measure the minor diameter of the bolts you've removed to make sure you don't drill TOO big. You wanna remove a good bit of the mass of the bolt and eventually it'll relax in on itself and spin out...but if you start drilling into the actual threads it can't do this

I like the local body shop suggestion. Failing that, a machine shop is what you want next. Machinists deal with failed fasteners all the time....but as a machinist myself I can make no promises about protecting the surrounding paint (which is where a body shop SHOULD excel)
 

BobK

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I did the exact same thing when I first acquired my 2018 JLUR trying to install the junky Mopar hinge reinforcement bracket. I ended up drilling it and using the extractor to get it out. +1 on using an impact wrench as opposed to the socket wrench I tried to use.

I ultimately ditched all the supplied bolts from Mopar and purchased hex head bolts with the smae thread to reinstall. That was before I ditched the Mopar bracket, sold it, and have been running without a spare for over a year. Now I am considering the Rusty's tire carrier and hinge replacement kit, it appears to be far superior to the Mopar approach.

To avoid this situation on any of the Jeep painted on bolts, I've found that I needed to use a hammer to truly set the torx headed fitting into the bolt head. It is the painted head that is causing the torx bit to slip and round out the head.
 

WagzDad

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You may be able to cut a slot across the fastener head using a dremel and thin cutoff wheel, then use a screwdriver to back it out. Be careful that you don’t cut all the way through the head. If you do, then you’ll need to drill into the bolt shank and use a small spiral screw extractor.

In the future, get some EZ Grip friction drops and use them on these stupid Torx fasteners to reduce the chance of stripping the heads by camming out like this.
Valve grinding compound works well also. I use it on all Phillips screwdrivers
 

Maverick909

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BobK

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No offense to the guy who suggested using a Dremel to cut a slot in the bolt head and trying using a screw driver to back out the bolt. I tried exactly that on a Torx bolt on my Jeep tub (not on a painted surface) and when I applied any torque to the screwdriver to back out the bolt, 1/2 of of the head that I had slotted broke off. I was left with a bolt head with 1/2 of a slot. In the end, a mechanic friend of my uttered the famous words "just cut that f**ker off" which is what I did from under the Jeep, with the same Dremel, with a cutting wheel

What makes you think that a mere screwdriver will back out something that you had a ratchet on with no success.
 

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Maverick909

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That's pretty awesome, never seen one before.
they work really well. using a dead blow hammer nice a flat. first time i removed the bolts on my wrangler doors to remove them gave all of them a hit with this guy and they all came out without issues. Same with the painted hinge bolts. cannot recommend these enough for 20 bucks.
 
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Paulocon

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I have used a chisel or punch and hammer to remove torx head fasteners before under similar circumstances. You run the risk of damage to surrounding surfaces if the tool slips off the fastener's face while tapping it out (counter-clockwise to remove),

You can remove the interior tailgate panel and see if the backside of this bolt is visible. That also might help in removing the bolt. I honestly don't know if you can see it though, I didn't pay attention when I had my tailgate panel off.
THank you so much for your response. It is very much appreciated!
 
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Paulocon

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did it move at all? if so, this is a total backwoods move, but, has worked for me more than once. vice grips on the outside edge.

whatever you do, masking take around its o You don't tear up your paint.

then, a trip to the dealer for a new bolt, with a pass by advance for some never seize.
Very good idea. dont want any scratches .. ill do this for sure.
 
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Paulocon

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did it move at all? if so, this is a total backwoods move, but, has worked for me more than once. vice grips on the outside edge.

whatever you do, masking take around its o You don't tear up your paint.

then, a trip to the dealer for a new bolt, with a pass by advance for some never seize.
nope not a bit.. the other one moved but not this stubborn one
 

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