Storing Jeep for Months

[redrocket]

What are your guys’ tip for storing a Jeep for months?
- starting once a month good enough?
- any concerns on flat spots on tires?
- need to be driven?
- special oils/fuel additives?

Preferentially, it would be nice if it didn’t have to be driven so I could drop the insurance on it to save so money. But whatever works best. Love to hear yours inputs.

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[geospyder]

Check out page 498 in the JL manual, presuming you have the same version I do If you have a PDF, version search for the word storing.

 

[Jmonroe]

I've been storing vehicles and boats for up to six months at a time for years.

One, don't start it unless you're going to put some miles on it, something north of 20, at minimum. Better yet, just leave it alone. The majority of engine wear is at startup, especially if "dry" (all oil has drained to the pan). Also, failure to run at full operating temps for enough time encourages moister build up that can turn corrosive and will fail to burn off what has accumulated. Again, just leave it alone.

I like to top off the fuel tank with treated fuel (such as sta-bil) before storage and, if possible, hook up the battery to a charge maintainer. If the latter is not possible disconnect the battery. I used to disconnect our '07 JK battery whenever i flat towed it and contrary to what some may tell you, I never lost the radio pre-sets.

I never worried about taking weight off the tires but will admit that after 6 months in storage the tires on the Camaro (SS convertable I bought new over 20 years ago) will take a "square" set that will take up to 100 milesto lose.

If you do want to unload the tires lift it under the suspension, not just the frame, so the suspension is not stretched out for an extended amount of time.

I've been storing the afore mentioned Camaro 6 months of the year every year for over 20 years now to no ill effect.

 

[SecondTJ]

What are your guys’ tip for storing a Jeep for months?
- starting once a month good enough?
- any concerns on flat spots on tires?
- need to be driven?
- special oils/fuel additives?

Preferentially, it would be nice if it didn’t have to be driven so I could drop the insurance on it to save so money. But whatever works best. Love to hear yours inputs.

- do not start it
- no need to drive it
- over inflate the tires
- fresh tank of ethanol free gas with stabilizer
- battery tender
- cover it

I also change the engine oil before storage, but that’s a whole different debate

 

[Rudolph Hart]

Carcoon is a popular storage system in the UK, lots of classic car owner’s use them. I’m not sure what the size of the investment is.

They have a US website here....

https://carcoonamerica.com/

 

[Amric]

Good advice on this thread already. I have stored a couple cars every winter for almost 30 years now, and never had an issue. I do everything mentioned by JMonroe and SecondTJ. The only thing additional I do, is when spring comes, I don't want it to fire up immediately, so make sure the starter turns it over for 15-30 seconds before allowing it to start. Many cars have a built in feature that if you hold the gas to the floor while turning it over, it will not start until the throttle is back to idle. I'm not sure if the JL behaves this way, so an alternative approach I have done is disconnecting the coils for the initial turn-over. The idea is to get the oil flowing again before allowing it to fire up.

 

[NavyChief]

USAA does storage insurance and you just call them the day before you use it to start normal insurance for the day. They charge you the normal rate for the time you use it and go back to the storage policy after.
I was paying a grand every six months for my dually and storage rate was 200 every six months.

 

[Mad Hatter]

Parking outside or garaged?

When my son deployed to Iraq, we parked his Subaru Legacy Spec B outside my garage. From rain and humidity the vehicle's brake disks rusted full circle--except where the pads were "protecting" the disc. First drive to prep for his two returns (one visit @ six months, the other coming home), the brakes pulsed like crazy! Rust to steel to rust with each rotation! Both times I was successfully able to get rid of the pulsing by driving at a "good" speed then holding the brakes down hard to remove the rust. Kept applying multiple times until the brakes gripped smoothly. Just make sure nobody is following you too closely as you apply the brakes! I am sure a dealer would have wanted to cut or replace the discs, something I found was unnecessary.

Thus if a stored vehicle is parked outside, I would suggest moving the car forward or backwards a few feet every month to minimize this effect of "spotting" on the disc.

A cover might help, but my son's car was uncovered during his absence. A covered car just yells "I'm not home!"

BTW, same son now drives a JLUR. My JLUR is a clone of his, but that is another story for another thread.

MH

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