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Rossp

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Some dealers are clueless even when told. For example, they've all been told that the new 3.6 takes 5 quarts and it is in all their documentation. But they still don't know. LOL!
I have a thread from a few weeks ago where I had to tell the dealer how to install the AUX switches. Clueless. Not to hijack...

Mom still has no update on her Jeep. No one she calls knows anything. She’s frustrated, rightly so, having ordered it 3 months ago, spent 50 grand on it and can’t get answers.
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angrynewyorker

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Hmmm, perhaps a flaw in my plan.... 01/22 is the stop ship date in the recall and my recall has a recall date of 01/28.

It's been made pretty clear that Jeeps built after both of those dates will still get the software update.

Those Jeeps built after 01/22 or 01/28 may not show up in the system properly yet.... I'm just speculating though.

As soon as mine updates I'll post here.
Mine was built after the recall date ons shows no open recall either.
 

kevinfloats

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My build sheet just came out today. I checked the app, and it shows no recalls.
JLU Altitude Manual
Ordered 1/12
D1 1/23
E 2/14
Build sheet 2/16

I'm doubtful that the software update was made yet - I'm expecting that it will be held at the factory until that is done. But thought others might be interested to hear the update.
 

SteadyC

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I have a 6MT -- I won't buy anything other than a manual.

Anywho... Is it really a hose? What I'm reading says FCA intends to fix it with software?
There are two recalls. First was where the plate would heat up, due to air entering the system, and causing clutch to slip. It was the hose that is replaced in first recall, fluid bled, and clutch dump performed. The recall discussed here is second recall, a software update.
 

HeavyUser

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There are two recalls. First was where the plate would heat up, due to air entering the system, and causing clutch to slip. It was the hose that is replaced in first recall, fluid bled, and clutch dump replaced. The recall discussed here is second recall, a software update.
Bleeding the clutch line wasn't the fix, it was a first attempt at a fix, now they are throwing in the towel and detuning our engines to cope with the torque as the pressure plates are STILL heating up and exploding. FCA are pieces of literal shit and the fact their final solution is to detune our engine just further solidifies my opinion. We all should be getting upgraded clutches for free.

As for me, they wont be applying that update as I upgraded to a Centerforce awhile back.
 

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SteadyC

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I haven’t done first recall on clutch yet, it is perfect and not slipping. I removed the clip myself. I have transmission skid, ARB tank right in front of the master cylinder, and Tazer programming, I have no interest in removing all these to have recall done, when I have no symptoms.

@DanW what days will you be in Moab? I’m headed there as well thurs, fri, and sat of latter weekend.
 

SteadyC

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Bleeding the clutch line wasn't the fix, it was a first attempt at a fix, now they are throwing in the towel and detuning our engines to cope with the torque as the pressure plates are STILL heating up and exploding. FCA are pieces of literal shit and the fact their final solution is to detune our engine just further solidifies my opinion. We all should be getting upgraded clutches for free.

As for me, they wont be applying that update as I upgraded to a Centerforce awhile back.
They are still doing both recalls, both are listed on my MOPAR site any way.
 

DanW

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I haven’t done first recall on clutch yet, it is perfect and not slipping. I removed the clip myself. I have transmission skid, ARB tank right in front of the master cylinder, and Tazer programming, I have no interest in removing all these to have recall done, when I have no symptoms.

@DanW what days will you be in Moab? I’m headed there as well thurs, fri, and sat of latter weekend.
Leaving the 26th and arriving either late Saturday night or Sunday. We are staying through Friday the 2nd. We'll head East for home that morning.
 

Punknhed

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What a mess. I'm on my second Center Force clutch and I'm expecting the 'improved' version in early March. If I have a beefier aftermarket clutch, should I stay away from any software patches that 'detune' engine output to save an OEM clutch I don't have?

The master cylinder has been problematic from the get go. Somewhere in this thread there was mention of a sleeve to improve the MC. Anyone confirm beefing up the MC?
curious as to why the 2nd centerforce.... i have a manual and have been keeping an eye on some of the threads about the clutch. Mine has the "hiccup" that was discussed a while back where it feels like its slipping but the dealer claims its not. They did do the first recall on it and had to replace a line because it actually had a hole in it.
 

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7th District

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I didn’t read all 13 pages here so my apologies if this has already been posted, but I found that Jeep Cares replied over on the Gladiator Forum.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-flash-fix-arrives-in-march.40499/post-655484

I know as an owner of a new 2021 JLU Willys I have zero interest in having my Jeep detuned.

This is my 3rd new Wrangler since 2009 and a tune strikes me a bandaid for a weak link. I haven’t complained here before but I’ve owned at least 6 new vehicles with manual trans in the last 25 years, and my 2021 JL is my least favorite. It’s too light and has little to no feel at the friction point.

I rather split the cost of an upgraded clutch. Even that sort of annoys me, because while I enjoy driving 3 pedals, the $2,400 mark up for the ZF auto would have been a stretch for my budget. That’s mainly what swayed me to the manual. I know paying to fix a brand new Jeep that’s under warranty sounds ridiculous, but detuning seems worse.

Our 2009 JKUR manual (solid for +50,000 miles) when we traded it in on our factory ordered 2012 JKUR auto.

AFBA6EE1-7817-4E2F-B4AA-3BC6532C7E9E.jpeg
 
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Wraif

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Just a quick note from someone who has his dream Jeep, 19 2-door manual. It WILL be worth the wait. I absolutely LOVE this transmission. Got the recall in the mail, haven’t noticed a problem. I even towed a trailer on vacation that was very close to, if not over, my tow capacity. Not a single hiccup. Very easy trans to drive too. Order them, you will not regret it, plus you’ll save what 3K ? 2K ? I forget.
 

COBill

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it would be helpful if Jeep could notify those who ordered as well as the dealers. She called the dealer and they were clueless.
Why would dealers be any better about this than with anything else involving Jeep?

While there are some good dealers out there, most take the attitude of "we don't know anything, and it doesn't bring us more money, so we don't care."
 

COBill

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I didn’t read all 13 pages here so my apologies if this has already been posted, but I found that Jeep Cares replied over on the Gladiator Forum.

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...-flash-fix-arrives-in-march.40499/post-655484
For those who didn't click:

JeepCares said:
There is no difference in the engine's power output under "normal circumstances" with the Y01 flash. The torque reduction only happens if the engine controller calculates the clutch pressure plate temperature is above a certain temperature threshold. The engine's normal output torque is restored when the clutch pressure plate's temperature falls below the threshold that will not cause damage. If the driving behavior that initially caused the condition continues after full engine torque is restored, and the temperature threshold is exceeded, the engine torque will be reduced again.
The problem here is how the software calculates the temperature of the clutch. If it's done well, it will be unnoticeable; if it's done poorly who knows under what circumstances torque will be reduced because the software believes the clutch is getting too hot.

Remember, since there is not a temperature sensor on the clutch, it's all based upon modeling and calculations of what the software thinks the temperature of the clutch is.
 

COBill

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I'd like to say I have "no ragerts" with the MT, but, it's not my favorite configuration (6th is worthless, reverse lockout is annoying, I wish it was a standard 5spd)
Why is 6th worthless?

The idea is when driving on normal roads, shift into 6th as soon as you are rolling at a normal speed that keeps the engine RPM above 1000 RPM or so. It's not meant for hill climbing per se or for passing, just for keeping the vehicle rolling in constant motion while keeping engine RPMs low for maximum fuel economy.

My vehicles have always spent 95% of their time in 6th, usually shifting 1 -> 3 -> 6. If you start slowing down in 6th, then you drop a gear or two.

This may sound silly, but it's basically what the AT does.
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