im guessing a budget of 20k would get close. so you buy a base sport, spend 20k or thereabouts. now you are at 50k give or take which is like buying a fully loaded rubi. but the hardware better.A boneyard built front 60 will run $8K before steering (full hydro or ram assist) if you rebuild it, upgrade the knuckles/steering arms, lock it & gear it....and that's if you do the work yourself. Buying a custom one will jump to $12-15K pretty fast.
An Atlas II is about $2500...and you'll need upgraded driveshafts of at least $750.
The rear boneyard 60/70/14B should run ~$1500-2K if you don't go ARB/Zip on the locker. You're going to need 8 lug wheels though...unless you want to spend a couple grand on converting the axles to 5-6 lug.
For mud, I don't know that it's worth the price tag...unless you want much larger tires or plan to run a lot more hp.
Actually, you can probably get better aftermarket stuff for less money. The real difference is you keep your warranty.Except D44s f/r and a 4:1 tcase are going to run a lot more than the $1300 on suspension or $2400 in lockers. Even after you spend that 3.7K, you're still not at an equivalent level in terms of capability or strength. There's a reason it's $7K more.
Not really. Have you priced out a complete front D44 from Dynatrac or Mopar? Then there's the tcase....I'd definitely upgrade to an Atlas over a RokTrac and a Hero over either....both of which will run more than the factory parts.
Warranty on the rest of the Jeep shouldn't be affected. Obviously, you lose it on anything you replace, but Magnuson-Moss basically says the mfg has to prove the damage to the factory components was caused by the aftermarket parts....of course, you have to have very deep pockets to fight that kind of dispute in court, bringing us full circle to your very apt comment about keeping your warranty.
That's not how it works. They decline to fix something maybe unrelated, your VIN gets flagged and YOU have to take them to court to prove it didn't.Warranty on the rest of the Jeep shouldn't be affected. Obviously, you lose it on anything you replace, but Magnuson-Moss basically says the mfg has to prove the damage to the factory components was caused by the aftermarket parts.....
From the scuttlebutt around here, a lot of dealers decline warranty at the drop of a hat. Any hat. A LOT of this comes down to priorities. I bought the rubicon with the lifetime warranty since I plan to keep it a long long time in more or less stock condition. I don't have the time nor desire to start with a base and build from there... I'd rather spend my free time and resources enjoying the jeep than building it. But that's for me. There is no one right way to get from here to there. I see little point in arguing which way is better because it depends on a myriad of variables that are beyond the scope of a forum post. I like all Jeeps. Make it whatever you want. Just enjoy it!That's not how it works. They decline the warranty fix, your VIN gets flagged and YOU have to take them to court to prove it didn't.
A Rubicon with a modest lift and 35s is an incredible value for a superbly capable - off-roader. It would be a lot of work and almost certainly more money to try and build a sport into an equally capable vehicle (for example, replicating the fenders, Tcase, and axles would be a PITA). Yes, it is absolutely do-able, and maybe even more fun for folks who want to do the build, but the Rubicon with those very minor upgrades (lift and 35s) is a formidable machine and formidable value - really tough to equal on price with a build-up of a sport. In my own personal situation (bias alert!) a lightly modified JLUR (mine has 35s, 3" lift, winch, and belly pan skid plates) is perfect for my use case - daily drivable, more than I need on the beach and most trails, and fully capable for some more challenging and rocky trails I tackle. Since I am not a dedicated hardcore rock crawler, I probably wouldn't want to risk my neck on any trail that would seriously challenge my JLUR anyway. Best of luck. PS: fake vents notwithstanding, that Rubicon hood looks freaking awesome, especially in HellaYella!First of all, how are you guys?
Long and short, been a lurker and commenter with a notable avatar and lately have been determined to join the ranks next year
Got most things figured out (Manual, 2dr, Hardtop, few packages), but after speccing both trims, can't decide if the $7k difference is worth it
Basically, it'd be a weekend toy that would be taken off road and on road trips. Will go offroading with my Rebel, but obviously not as much as it's a work truck/Daily.
Figure the Rubi has:
Front sway bar disconnect
I'm big on modding, so it's more for the $7k, would it be better to DIY or retrofit a few things or start from the top and go from there?
Thanks in Advance,