Stop me if you heard this before: Sport+ vs Rubi

roaniecowpony

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Dick measuring, pissing distance, and a logic contest. Just another day of fun and games on the forum.

 

porcusRex

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A boneyard built front 60 will run $8K before steering (full hydro or ram assist) if you rebuild it, upgrade the knuckles/steering arms, lock it & gear it....and that's if you do the work yourself. Buying a custom one will jump to $12-15K pretty fast.

An Atlas II is about $2500...and you'll need upgraded driveshafts of at least $750.

The rear boneyard 60/70/14B should run ~$1500-2K if you don't go ARB/Zip on the locker. You're going to need 8 lug wheels though...unless you want to spend a couple grand on converting the axles to 5-6 lug.

For mud, I don't know that it's worth the price tag...unless you want much larger tires or plan to run a lot more hp.
im guessing a budget of 20k would get close. so you buy a base sport, spend 20k or thereabouts. now you are at 50k give or take which is like buying a fully loaded rubi. but the hardware better.

btw, if i won the lottery, i'd do all ive mentioned and also swap in a gm v8 motor. im guessing a budget of around 100k would get me close to what i want in totality.

the mud quote is just to provide the local outback environment. 90 percent of the reason for buying a jeep in the first place is to get a new toy.
 

Maverick909

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My two penny’s,

I didn’t go for the Rubi due to the same reasons you’re talking about 7k is a huge jump in money over the sport model. I went sport. I have all the Rubi take off suspension,tires and wheels for under 1300 bucks. That checks off the extra 2” lift a Rubi gives and the nicer wheels. My only recommendation is get the trailering package and the upgraded 7” screen. Other than that you really don’t need anything else. You can get the 4:10 gears with lockers installed for about 2400 bucks if you don’t do them yourself.. the sway bar disconnect weighs like 60+ lbs I do believe. No reason for that. Get a set of quick disconnects. Takes less than a min to unhook them myself. La de da lol. Anywhom bade model. Upgrade as you please and be happier you didn’t buy a finish rig from the lot like a Rubi
 

Onyx Dragon

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Except D44s f/r and a 4:1 tcase are going to run a lot more than the $1300 on suspension or $2400 in lockers. Even after you spend that 3.7K, you're still not at an equivalent level in terms of capability or strength. There's a reason it's $7K more.
Actually, you can probably get better aftermarket stuff for less money. The real difference is you keep your warranty.
 


Onyx Dragon

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Not really. Have you priced out a complete front D44 from Dynatrac or Mopar? Then there's the tcase....I'd definitely upgrade to an Atlas over a RokTrac and a Hero over either....both of which will run more than the factory parts.

Warranty on the rest of the Jeep shouldn't be affected. Obviously, you lose it on anything you replace, but Magnuson-Moss basically says the mfg has to prove the damage to the factory components was caused by the aftermarket parts....of course, you have to have very deep pockets to fight that kind of dispute in court, bringing us full circle to your very apt comment about keeping your warranty.

SHOULDN'T be affected, but they also find a way to say "this part did this..."
 

RubenZ

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When the time comes. Just gonna throw these on my sport and be done with it :) Also keep in mind the JL is new. In about 2-3yrs you'll be able to find Rubi Take Offs for chump change. Just wait a bit.

Screen Shot 2019-05-24 at 11.14.37 AM.png
 

ViperJon

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Warranty on the rest of the Jeep shouldn't be affected. Obviously, you lose it on anything you replace, but Magnuson-Moss basically says the mfg has to prove the damage to the factory components was caused by the aftermarket parts.....
That's not how it works. They decline to fix something maybe unrelated, your VIN gets flagged and YOU have to take them to court to prove it didn't.
 

TJ2018

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That's not how it works. They decline the warranty fix, your VIN gets flagged and YOU have to take them to court to prove it didn't.
From the scuttlebutt around here, a lot of dealers decline warranty at the drop of a hat. Any hat. A LOT of this comes down to priorities. I bought the rubicon with the lifetime warranty since I plan to keep it a long long time in more or less stock condition. I don't have the time nor desire to start with a base and build from there... I'd rather spend my free time and resources enjoying the jeep than building it. But that's for me. There is no one right way to get from here to there. I see little point in arguing which way is better because it depends on a myriad of variables that are beyond the scope of a forum post. I like all Jeeps. Make it whatever you want. Just enjoy it!
 

RubenZ

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Yup. That’s what I plan to do. And on a 0% interest credit card balance transfer lol.
 


RubenZ

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Ya I see what your saying. It’s misleading.
 

roaniecowpony

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We’re sorry, Mom. We’ll do better. We promise.
WHAT? Hell no! If not for all this, I'd never come to the forum.
 

xtopherm

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First of all, how are you guys?

Long and short, been a lurker and commenter with a notable avatar and lately have been determined to join the ranks next year

Got most things figured out (Manual, 2dr, Hardtop, few packages), but after speccing both trims, can't decide if the $7k difference is worth it

Basically, it'd be a weekend toy that would be taken off road and on road trips. Will go offroading with my Rebel, but obviously not as much as it's a work truck/Daily.

Figure the Rubi has:

Bigger brakes
Front sway bar disconnect
Navi
LED lighting
4:10
Hood

I'm big on modding, so it's more for the $7k, would it be better to DIY or retrofit a few things or start from the top and go from there?

Thanks in Advance,

Rogue
A Rubicon with a modest lift and 35s is an incredible value for a superbly capable - off-roader. It would be a lot of work and almost certainly more money to try and build a sport into an equally capable vehicle (for example, replicating the fenders, Tcase, and axles would be a PITA). Yes, it is absolutely do-able, and maybe even more fun for folks who want to do the build, but the Rubicon with those very minor upgrades (lift and 35s) is a formidable machine and formidable value - really tough to equal on price with a build-up of a sport. In my own personal situation (bias alert!) a lightly modified JLUR (mine has 35s, 3" lift, winch, and belly pan skid plates) is perfect for my use case - daily drivable, more than I need on the beach and most trails, and fully capable for some more challenging and rocky trails I tackle. Since I am not a dedicated hardcore rock crawler, I probably wouldn't want to risk my neck on any trail that would seriously challenge my JLUR anyway. Best of luck. PS: fake vents notwithstanding, that Rubicon hood looks freaking awesome, especially in HellaYella!
 

RubenZ

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True but honestly Fenders is irrelevant. You don't need them. The Hood is just for looks. The only thing honestly that sets a Rubi apart is that T-Case, Axles and Lockers. In about 2 years when JLUR's can be found in the salvage yards you can probably pull the T-Case and Axles for about 2 grand at MOST! Heck you can already find the Fenders if you want for under 300 bucks on eBay. But I agree though. For those who want a great out of box Off-road vehicle the Rubicon is a badass package deal. I just can't see them being 10-20K more than what you can get a SPORT for. I literally was out the door at under 35k with a Hard Top, LSD and 8spd. And I put 25k down cash. My payment is under 250/mo LOL.
 

OffroadTreks

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While they're planning on their mods and shop time; searching for credit card offers and getting a second mortgage; I can go buy the ruby, slap some 35's on it and let it rub all over while running almost all the trails in Moab. (hella run on sentence)

You want to do all that crap or start having fun now?

Coilovers and Dana 60's sound awesome. But we're going wheeling in an hour.

Easy choice for me.

Go have capable rig now and have fun.

Do mods as needed.

 

Northridge4x4
 
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