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Steersmarts yeti drag link failure

TRZ

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I think any big trip like the rubicon everyone brings a few replacement items to share. Someone brings a welder etc.

I’m rather newer to jeeping I’m wondering how often this type of break occurs on any brand drag link or tie rod for that matter.
Absolutely; if not for yourself, then for someone else. If you upgrade a component (as opposed to replacing a broken part), bring the stock part as a spare if you have space.
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vavaroutsos

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Try getting the drag link off from the pitman arm on JL, without a pickle fork not much room there for a hammer, love to hear a better approach. Even SS recommended that method.
Yeah, I put a short handle sledge between the pitman arm and frame and pounded the arm with a 24oz bronze hammer but the rod end taper wouldn't break loose. Normally I prefer to use a puller, but there just wasn't space for it, so out came the pickle fork. If there is a better way, I would sure like to hear about it as well.
 

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Try getting the drag link off from the pitman arm on JL, without a pickle fork not much room there for a hammer, love to hear a better approach. Even SS recommended that method.
Minute 37:06 in the video in the first post. This is how we've always done it as well.
 

MarkY3130

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Minute 37:06 in the video in the first post. This is how we've always done it as well.
Tried that method for a while before grabbing the pickle fork. Wasn’t happening without one on mine, at least not in an acceptable timeframe.

maybe on the next one
 

SS_AP

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*Update*

Unfortunately, we won't have an opportunity to review the end as it was accidentally left on the trail. Based on the photo and what can be seen in the video, I am confident the failure was caused by incorrect torque. Stock spec for the JK draglink at the knuckle is 63 ft-lbs while our No-Drill top mount requires 110 ft-lbs. If the stud had been incorrectly heat-treated, the failure would have been at the base where the stud meets the ball, not partway up the stud.

If anyone has any further questions, let me know.
 

Halstem1

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I learned so much on this thread! Thanks all.
 

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Tried that method for a while before grabbing the pickle fork. Wasn’t happening without one on mine, at least not in an acceptable timeframe.

maybe on the next one
I'll often spray penetrating lube down in the taper on stubborn ones, and if you can manage to lightly lever down on the drag link while pounding this can sometimes help. Of course this can sometimes require a helper and is dependent upon being able to find a suitable fulcrum point - not always easy in all applications.

Worst case, the incredible vibration of an air hammer cures all, but sometimes I take a sacrificial .401 (or whatever you're running) shank and build attachments so I don't walk off into a steering box or oil pan or whatever
 

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NFRs2000NYC

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Aaaand, here one of his nut swingers now.
I live in NJ and literally never met him....but I can smell (and see) bs when it's blatantly on display.
 

MarkY3130

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I'll often spray penetrating lube down in the taper on stubborn ones, and if you can manage to lightly lever down on the drag link while pounding this can sometimes help. Of course this can sometimes require a helper and is dependent upon being able to find a suitable fulcrum point - not always easy in all applications.

Worst case, the incredible vibration of an air hammer cures all, but sometimes I take a sacrificial .401 (or whatever you're running) shank and build attachments so I don't walk off into a steering box or oil pan or whatever

For sure it’s possible. When you have a crutch you tend to use it. I’m sure if I didn’t own a set of pickle forks I would have gotten it off differently.
 

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Eddie is a diehard Trump support, so depends on your stance on current administration. It can be either a "yeah" or "boo" for you!
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