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Steering Stabilizer: is it worth the investment?

Blckdog

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Did you do both mods together?
If so, how do you know the result is from both parts and not longer LCA alone?
I installed the AEV stabilizer and LCA’s at the same time. LCA’s alone would not have made the steering difference result I now have.
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I installed the AEV stabilizer and LCA’s at the same time. LCA’s alone would not have made the steering difference result I now have.
I was just curious.
For mods that I can install independently, I always like to put one on, drive around, and feel the difference each component makes, instead of installing all at the same time.
 

Blckdog

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Tools were out, nice summer day, figured while I was under the front, might as well do all of it at once. Not more than an hour went by, parts were installed a beer was in my hand.
 

zyt

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I have the FOX ATS- JK version (for relocation) with RockJock Mount for about an year now. It works great and the ability to adjust is awesome. If considering this mod, I would highly recommend getting ATS for adjustability and do the relocation at the same time. Otherwise, just leaving the OEM stabilizer as-is since there is not much difference if only putting on a different brand stabilizer at the same location.

I went with RockJock mount because I couldn't properly torque the supplied bolt without removing the draglink or tie rod. To avoid DW, I decided get this mount rather than touching neither of those two parts.

Here is the con:
I find it difficult to do a tight turn at low speed, like sharply pull into a parking spot or doing a 3 point turn. It feels like I am fight against much more resistance than regular driving, but I don't see any signs of SS rubbing or touching anything. I am on 315/70/R17 KO2s.
Anyone else experience this?
 

zouch

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why not try adjusting the SS to a lower setting?


I have the FOX ATS
<snip>
I find it difficult to do a tight turn at low speed, like sharply pull into a parking spot or doing a 3 point turn. It feels like I am fight against much more resistance than regular driving, but I don't see any signs of SS rubbing or touching anything. I am on 315/70/R17 KO2s.
Anyone else experience this?
 

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zyt

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why not try adjusting the SS to a lower setting?
My on road driving is perfect, took me several time to play around with different settings to finally dial in. However, it feels like the resistant jumps up a lot for low speed turning. For example, on road driving feels like 15 clicks and turning wheels more at a lower speed feels like 20 clicks.

I am fully expecting it is harder to turn at lower speed for any vehicle, but this one feels much more heavier. I am suspecting the relocation to tie rod changed the characteristic of the turning feel. Not sure if this is true, so I am interested to hear if anyone else with SS relocation notices this.
The stock SS on its original location with 35 tires didn't feel this way.
 

zouch

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yours seems to be a complaint we don't hear often (if ever).

TL:DR
it's Adjustable. play with the Adjuster to get the compromise you're most willing to settle with. few things in suspension are ever "perfect".


unlikely the location of the mounting points has anything to do with it.

the stock SS had very low damping forces. if you have your ATS cranked way up, it's going to have higher damping, and (unless you're using it to mask some other issue) it has very little influence on what we feel on the road.
as with any Damper, damping may vary at high and low Compression/Rebound speeds. on the road, we don't spin the steering wheel very quickly, so the SS doesn't really do much; at parking lot speeds you're clearly spinning the steering wheel more quickly, so the influence of the SS is going to be higher.
considering that if everything is in order you should be able to drive without a SS entirely, if you have to have yours cranked up high for on-road, you might have a problem it's masking, or it might be that you just like a lot more resistance to the steering wheel than some folks; that's why we have the adjustability! 😉


My on road driving is perfect, took me several time to play around with different settings to finally dial in. However, it feels like the resistant jumps up a lot for low speed turning. For example, on road driving feels like 15 clicks and turning wheels more at a lower speed feels like 20 clicks.

I am fully expecting it is harder to turn at lower speed for any vehicle, but this one feels much more heavier. I am suspecting the relocation to tie rod changed the characteristic of the turning feel. Not sure if this is true, so I am interested to hear if anyone else with SS relocation notices this.
The stock SS on its original location with 35 tires didn't feel this way.
 

zyt

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yours seems to be a complaint we don't hear often (if ever).

TL:DR
it's Adjustable. play with the Adjuster to get the compromise you're most willing to settle with. few things in suspension are ever "perfect".


unlikely the location of the mounting points has anything to do with it.

the stock SS had very low damping forces. if you have your ATS cranked way up, it's going to have higher damping, and (unless you're using it to mask some other issue) it has very little influence on what we feel on the road.
as with any Damper, damping may vary at high and low Compression/Rebound speeds. on the road, we don't spin the steering wheel very quickly, so the SS doesn't really do much; at parking lot speeds you're clearly spinning the steering wheel more quickly, so the influence of the SS is going to be higher.
considering that if everything is in order you should be able to drive without a SS entirely, if you have to have yours cranked up high for on-road, you might have a problem it's masking, or it might be that you just like a lot more resistance to the steering wheel than some folks; that's why we have the adjustability! 😉
Thank you so much for your input. I think the key is not to expect the suspension and steering components to be “factory perfect” when riding on a 3” lift with 35” tire. I don’t any other issues to mask, so it’s really just keep trying different settings to find the sweet spot. A win for the adjustability of ATS.
 

DaltonGang

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I did a lot of reading on the steering dampers/stabilizers, and decided the latest greatest wasn't what I needed. I bought the Ranch RS5000 RS5420. It now handles much better than stock, and no wandering or pulling.
 
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zouch

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"Factory Perfect" wasn't what i was after; i was looking for better than factory.

with a few inches of lift on 35s, i already had a ride i liked better than Factory, but i also upgraded several key components to deal with the extra weight.
now on 37s i've updated almost all of the steering with heavier-duty components to where i have an even more capable vehicle and the best ride yet, and have no problems even without a SS installed. but i enjoy having the ability to dial in a tad more resistance at the steering wheel. (adjustable Lower Control Arms to get me closer to 7º of Negative Caster probably made more of difference in stability at speed than any setting on the SS.)

the stock ball joints in these things suck; they're plastic junk that is barely enough to get the vehicle past the warranty on stock tires. i was surprised at the condition mine were in when i updated them fairly early on with a heavier-duty rebuildable set.
i also added a Front Track Bar and Sector Shaft Brace early on as a measure of security, and was lucky enough to already have the better (non-aluminum) steering box.
degradation in any of several items can lead to the wander and pull that people report and claim is cured by a better steering stabilizer. (the stock SS is rather 'lightweight', and replaced often even under warranty.)

if you're already got a few inches of lift, i hope you've already got an adjustable front track bar and a rear track bar relocation bracket to get the axles back under the J**p where they belong, and the roll center corrected in the rear. if you've already done that, 6+º of Negative Caster is your next target for better highway stability; you should be able to adjust that ATS down to lower resistance at that point. hope that you already don't have the aluminum steering box, and expect that you're probably going to want to replace the ball joints sooner than you should have to.

but enjoy experimenting with the ATS to figure out what works best for you, and know that you can change it again tmw if you get the inkling; that's the luxury you paid for! :)


Thank you so much for your input. I think the key is not to expect the suspension and steering components to be “factory perfect” when riding on a 3” lift with 35” tire. I don’t any other issues to mask, so it’s really just keep trying different settings to find the sweet spot. A win for the adjustability of ATS.
 

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@JL_o|||||||o the easiest way to do a relocated through shaft stabilizer is to buy the one for a JK. That’s what most guys are doing or have done including myself…… The Fox through shaft for JK comes with a clamp for the tie rod ( you need the 1-5/8” clamp for the stock tie rod) and a track bar bolt so you don’t have to buy anything extra to install it ……. I would imagine that Falcon for JK would be the same way…….

If you buy the stabilizer for the JL it will come with a bracket on it to fit in the factory location and it will take some modification plus you’ll need to buy a relocation kit separately…… so it’s a lot easier to get the JK version….. Even if it’s a 90% asphalt rig, I still recommend relocating it….

This all said, if you’re doing this because your rig is wandering at highway speeds then you’re addressing the wrong part…
It’s most likely you need to increase your caster after lifting unless you’re lift kit came with something to address it like adjustable or longer control arms, drop brackets, or (god forbid ) cam bolts……

If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM if you want….
Hey Roky,

thats super helpful to know,
i had Jeep i stall Mopar 2.5 lift kit to accomodate my new bfg 35s;
seems it included longer control arms.
It was a direct bolt on/swap out yet not sure if Jeep considered the caster adjustment.

Anything you might suggest i talk with them about to make that adjustment (mechanic’s language)??

I am also under their warranty so hopefully its on them (free service).
 

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Hey Roky,

thats super helpful to know,
i had Jeep i stall Mopar 2.5 lift kit to accomodate my new bfg 35s;
seems it included longer control arms.
It was a direct bolt on/swap out yet not sure if Jeep considered the caster adjustment.

Anything you might suggest i talk with them about to make that adjustment (mechanic’s language)??

I am also under their warranty so hopefully its on them (free service).
Hi Brian, If you’re using the control arms that come with the Mopar kit, then there isn’t any adjustment…they are a fixed arm like the oem arms just a 1/4” longer…… if you want/need to increase caster, you’ll need to get some adjustable lower arms, or adjustable uppers, or drop brackets…any of these will work….. I prefer adjustable lowers, as they get the most work when off-roading…..
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