Steering Stabilizer: is it worth the investment?

[zouch]

no matter what kind you're going to use, i wouldn't bother doing anything with the Steering Stabilizer unless i was going to relocate it at the same time; where it hangs in stock location, it's a rock magnet.

but if you have wandering, i'd look to address what the cause of that is first, not hope to mask it with a SS.

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[mwilk012]

From my experience with stock Rubicon with steel bumper suspension... once I added winch the extra weight slightly lowered the front suspension. After driving on highway 60 miles round trip 70MPH +, there was a more positive feel in steering. I have a feeling depending on lift, air flow may cause instability issues above 60MPH. A lift from up force to lighten front end, which can change toe in or toe out. A good example is driving into wind gusts... bucking the wind. Bumpy roads or dips can make a wander, loose feel or jerk amplified, when air lift lightens front end. A stabilizer may help hide, but won't correct.

I am planning on a 1.5" ~ 2" lift but without adjusting to level the front. It's better looking than the squat look, to say the least. But 35s and a 1.5" lift with a slight nose drop should be better on the trails than what I got with 33s with a slight nose drop.

Suspension height does not affect toe.

 

[YBABRAT]

Suspension height does not affect toe.

You overlooked my explanation. Compression and relaxation of springs with LCA effects toe. Depends on proper lca length and amount of travel. I tried to explain my reasoning clearly about wind effects at speeds.

 

[mwilk012]

You overlooked my explanation. Compression and relaxation of springs with LCA effects toe. Depends on proper lca length and amount of travel. I tried to explain my reasoning clearly about wind effects at speeds.

You can further explain all you like, it’s still wrong.

 

[RudeJeepin]

You overlooked my explanation. Compression and relaxation of springs with LCA effects toe. Depends on proper lca length and amount of travel. I tried to explain my reasoning clearly about wind effects at speeds.

Since the JT and JL use a tie rod that goes from one steering knuckle directly to the other steering knuckle the toe in and toe out doesn't ever change.
You might be confusing toe with caster.

 

[YBABRAT]

Since the JT and JL use a tie rod that goes from one steering knuckle directly to the other steering knuckle the toe in and toe out doesn't ever change.
You might be confusing toe with caster.

Camber! That you are on about. Not confusing, Just wrong in naming.

Simple test if geometry with upgrades seems unstable. You can test by lowering the front tire pressures by 2 psi and see if speeds seem more stable. It will show a slightly noticable difference.

Sorry for the confusion I gave. But camber is what I was thinking about but used the wrong terminology.

 

[Roky]

@JL_o|||||||o

So can you help me find the right setup
to install it and relocating it
(steering stabilizer and tie rod parts
that pair well with each other)

i was planning on installing this:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/tera...ng-stabilizer-stock-tie-rod-2018-jeep-jl.html

@JL_o|||||||o the easiest way to do a relocated through shaft stabilizer is to buy the one for a JK. That’s what most guys are doing or have done including myself…… The Fox through shaft for JK comes with a clamp for the tie rod ( you need the 1-5/8” clamp for the stock tie rod) and a track bar bolt so you don’t have to buy anything extra to install it ……. I would imagine that Falcon for JK would be the same way…….

If you buy the stabilizer for the JL it will come with a bracket on it to fit in the factory location and it will take some modification plus you’ll need to buy a relocation kit separately…… so it’s a lot easier to get the JK version….. Even if it’s a 90% asphalt rig, I still recommend relocating it….

This all said, if you’re doing this because your rig is wandering at highway speeds then you’re addressing the wrong part…
It’s most likely you need to increase your caster after lifting unless you’re lift kit came with something to address it like adjustable or longer control arms, drop brackets, or (god forbid ) cam bolts……

If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM if you want….

 

[c20040215]

Personally, I will say no.
If you have your caster set within the ideal range, no play on the steering components, and balance the tires right, you wont have any steering issue.

But again, its not an expensive mod if it makes you feel better.

 

[Fast-n-Furious]

Daily driving here, I've had my XR for over 2.5 years with nearly 20K miles before I switched to Fox 2.0 ATS. No big complaints to the stock SS, I'm not sensitive to the steering feedbacks, driving between wife's Audi A4 does feel better control but I'm still fine with the Jeep steering.

I decided to upgrade mainly for the sake of projects, I tent to do 2 or 3 mods each year and wanted to start with the small ones that don't break the bank. Bought the Fox ATS JK version when it was on sale for $350 ish including tax. Relocated to above the tie rod without additional parts since the JK version comes with track bar frame bolt and 1-5/8" tie rod clamp.

I tested with 12, 15, and 18 clicks, and settled at 16 clicks. The handling feels better but not as big improvement than stock. It's measurable and I like the look too. No regret.

It really boils down to the cost, and Fox ATS 2.0 build quality is very nice!

 

[c20040215]

Daily driving here, I've had my XR for over 2.5 years with nearly 20K miles before I switched to Fox 2.0 ATS. No big complaints to the stock SS, I'm not sensitive to the steering feedbacks, driving between wife's Audi A4 does feel better control but I'm still fine with the Jeep steering.

I decided to upgrade mainly for the sake of projects, I tent to do 2 or 3 mods each year and wanted to start with the small ones that don't break the bank. Bought the Fox ATS JK version when it was on sale for $350 ish including tax. Relocated to above the tie rod without additional parts since the JK version comes with track bar frame bolt and 1-5/8" tie rod clamp.

I tested with 12, 15, and 18 clicks, and settled at 16 clicks. The handling feels better but not as big improvement than stock. It's measurable and I like the look too. No regret.

It really boils down to the cost, and Fox ATS 2.0 build quality is very nice!

Another way I look at it is $500 for a ATS, you are half way to a RNR hydraulic ram assist, which set up correctly, is the best on road stabilizer you can have.

 

[R3TRO]

@JL_o|||||||o

@JL_o|||||||o the easiest way to do a relocated through shaft stabilizer is to buy the one for a JK. That’s what most guys are doing or have done including myself…… The Fox through shaft for JK comes with a clamp for the tie rod ( you need the 1-5/8” clamp for the stock tie rod) and a track bar bolt so you don’t have to buy anything extra to install it ……. I would imagine that Falcon for JK would be the same way…….

If you buy the stabilizer for the JL it will come with a bracket on it to fit in the factory location and it will take some modification plus you’ll need to buy a relocation kit separately…… so it’s a lot easier to get the JK version….. Even if it’s a 90% asphalt rig, I still recommend relocating it….

This all said, if you’re doing this because your rig is wandering at highway speeds then you’re addressing the wrong part…
It’s most likely you need to increase your caster after lifting unless you’re lift kit came with something to address it like adjustable or longer control arms, drop brackets, or (god forbid ) cam bolts……

If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM if you want….

This. I damaged mine on light trails and made sure my new one was relocated. Honestly I can't tell the difference driving on city streets and the Jeep still slightly wanders like it always has on the freeway. On trails 'maybe' it's better, buy not a night/day difference.

 

[dsgrey]

I put a Fox ATS 2.0 on my stock Unlimited a few months ago and noticed a difference. Did a 450 mile trip last week with highway speeds of 75+ in crosswinds and could tell a big difference.

 

[RudeJeepin]

Camber! That you are on about. Not confusing, Just wrong in naming.

Simple test if geometry with upgrades seems unstable. You can test by lowering the front tire pressures by 2 psi and see if speeds seem more stable. It will show a slightly noticable difference.

Sorry for the confusion I gave. But camber is what I was thinking about but used the wrong terminology.

I hate to tell you, but your wrong again. JLs and JTs have solid front axles. The only real way the camber is changing, is if you change the camber sleeve where the ball joints mount. Sure you could argue that camber changes with axle articulation, but that is trivial at best.
Caster will change as the axle travels in it's up/down arc. But that is temporary and will return to normal at rest. Plus the amount of change would be minor in normal hwy usage.

 

[RubiSc0tt]

Dropping in to throw another vote: Follow @Roky 's advice. Not only does he know his shit, but I also trashed my OEM stabilizer in the stock location to the point where it actually affected steering (can was dented ).
I got a Clayton relocation kit and a Crown automotive Stabilizer for around $150 all in, but I think the JK version some of the guys suggested here might be a better route based on the design and some of what I've read thus far.

 

[Wabujitsu]

Another vote for the Fox 2.0 TS (non adjustable). I drove to Phoenix from SW FL (still here) at 75-80 MPH. It was windy. I had NO wander at those speeds, in my 2.5” lifted JLUR on 35” mud terrain tires. I still need to relocate it; I hope I don’t bash it while wheeling out here. So far, so good

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