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Steering damper - Jeep pulling left

frankmorris

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Got the V41 damper recall done, and noticed my car started pulling to the left. I took it back in to the dealer and they "redid" the recall (i.e., installed a new damper). It seems better, and maybe it's just in my mind, but seems to still pull to the left at all.

Anyone else experiencing this? Would this make sense that a damper would be somehow adjusted so the car pulls to one side?
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D60

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If it's gas charged, yes. I thought the OEM stabilizers were not.

You might give it a few days to "relax"
 
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frankmorris

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If it's gas charged, yes. I thought the OEM stabilizers were not.

You might give it a few days to "relax"
Not sure about the OEM parts, good question. That's an interesting idea about letting it relax - hadn't heard that. Will give it a shot.
 

The Acme Company

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The stock stabilizer will not make it pull to one side or the other. Depending on wind and road conditions you may see your steering wheel cocked to the left or right while driving straight. If you have a true pull, check your tire pressure to make sure that one of the fronts is not low and have the alignment checked.
 
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frankmorris

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The stock stabilizer will not make it pull to one side or the other. Depending on wind and road conditions you may see your steering wheel cocked to the left or right while driving straight. If you have a true pull, check your tire pressure to make sure that one of the fronts is not low and have the alignment checked.
Thanks. I had the alignment checked and the tire pressures all show 39, but I could double check just in case there happens to be a slight difference.

There are only about 3,000 miles on the car so I doubt it would be a tire quality issue or something else.
 

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WranglerMan

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Thanks. I had the alignment checked and the tire pressures all show 39, but I could double check just in case there happens to be a slight difference.

There are only about 3,000 miles on the car so I doubt it would be a tire quality issue or something else.
39# is way to much pressure, you are riding on the crown of the tire, your best bet is to chalk test to see where the pressure needs to be
 

sourdough

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Factory air pressure is for fuel economy IMO. My stock Jl 2dr. liked 30 PSI cold, and both steering and ride improved. I never chalk tested for tread contact. I now have 37” tires, still rides and steers like a Jeep, haha.
 
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frankmorris

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@sourdough and @WranglerMan - Are you all suggesting lower tire pressure for off-road performance and steering? Most of my normal driving is on the road, so I'd rather optimize for fuel economy. What would you suggest for on-road driving? Any links to learn more about the chalk test?
 

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I run my AIR PRESSURE at 34/32 psi and I've had the STEERING STABILIZER DONE--

Any thing above 36 psi is ridiculous--

If your TPMS ALARM comes on you can clear the COMPUTER easy--it's in the manual !

As noted earlier--the OEM stab. is NOT GAS FILLED, however there's no telling what the dealer installed and if it is GAS FILLED that will force your steering to the left !

Higher air pressure on a solid axle front will RESULT IN ERRATIC STEERING !

Good luck

JIMBO
 
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frankmorris

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I run my AIR PRESSURE at 34/32 psi and I've had the STEERING STABILIZER DONE--

Any thing above 36 psi is ridiculous--

If your TPMS ALARM comes on you can clear the COMPUTER easy--it's in the manual !

As noted earlier--the OEM stab. is NOT GAS FILLED, however there's no telling what the dealer installed and if it is GAS FILLED that will force your steering to the left !

Higher air pressure on a solid axle front will RESULT IN ERRATIC STEERING !

Good luck

JIMBO
Thanks Jimbo - I suppose it’s worth a call, but if they’re doing a V41 factory recall would the dealer have the option of using aftermarket parts?
 

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Thanks Jimbo - I suppose it’s worth a call, but if they’re doing a V41 factory recall would the dealer have the option of using aftermarket parts?
Wall, not in accordance with the warranty, unless--the dealer has FCA approval for SUBSTITUTION IN MINOR SAGETY GEAR !

Of you have a JLU SAHARA-- then the main shocks are identical to the RUBICON GAS FILLED SHOCKS--(not red)-but not the steering dampner !

Did the dealer rotate your tires on the same visit ??

If so--as said earlier--that could be a minor part of the problem--

SO MANY AVENUES when a problem shows up in a JEEP

Good luck

JIMBO
 
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frankmorris

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Wall, not in accordance with the warranty, unless--the dealer has FCA approval for SUBSTITUTION IN MINOR SAGETY GEAR !

Of you have a JLU SAHARA-- then the main shocks are identical to the RUBICON GAS FILLED SHOCKS--(not red)-but not the steering dampner !

Did the dealer rotate your tires on the same visit ??

If so--as said earlier--that could be a minor part of the problem--

SO MANY AVENUES when a problem shows up in a JEEP

Good luck

JIMBO
I believe I should be able to see the damper on the bottom of the Jeep, correct? Wondering if there’s a way I can visually tell if they used the OEM part.
 

JIMBOX

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I believe I should be able to see the damper on the bottom of the Jeep, correct? Wondering if there’s a way I can visually tell if they used the OEM part.
There is a PT# on the main shaft, but there have been several VENDORS/W DIFFERENT PT#--so that won't work--

It's possible the installation was OFF CENTER and it would have to be removed to check/correct that--

It's supposed to (fat end) attach to the passenger FRONT side frame-then (skinny end) to the tierod-

Not much room for an error, but you never can tell with some dealer service DEPTS--

W.E.

JIMBO
 

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@sourdough and @WranglerMan - Are you all suggesting lower tire pressure for off-road performance and steering? Most of my normal driving is on the road, so I'd rather optimize for fuel economy. What would you suggest for on-road driving? Any links to learn more about the chalk test?
I’m running 35” BFG KO2’s and my cold pressure is 28-29# most likely when you picked up your JL the press was close to 40# and at this pressure the dealership does not have to worry how many months they sit on the lot because even if it drops to 35-37 it’s still safe to drive so when you are driving any vehicle with over pressured tires you will get better miles per gal but hear me out ITS NOT SAFE AS YOU ARE RIDING ON THE CROWN.

Riding on the crown causes less tread contact on the road and the benefit of better mileage does not outweigh the risk so your best bet is to chalk test.

There are several ways to run your tire pressure and those are:

1. Placard press from the door sill ( does not apply if your running non stock tires.

2. 10% rule and that is when you first get in and rolling down the road observe you tire pressure and then again after about 15 mins, it should not come up more than 10%

3. Chalk test and for this get a piece of sidewalk chalk and air up to say 40# then park on a flat smooth surface say a mall parking lot and take the chalk and draw a 1” wide line across the tread of one front tire and the opposite back one and then drive straight at low speed about 50# and back up the same and then observe the chalk line.

If the center of the chalk line is gone but remains toward the edges you have to much air so lower 1-2 # and repeat, the goal is to have the lines wear evenly off all the way across.

You can do this with all for if you want but it’s really only necessary to do it with opposing tires.

Case in point, BFG recommends 60# on mine and I run them at 28-29 and after almost 20k miles they are wearing perfect all the way across but I also rotate every 5-7k miles
 
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frankmorris

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Thanks all - I definitely need to drop my tire pressure then.

Here is the part on my car - wondering if anyone recognizes this as OEM/appropriate.

I had a different dealer redo the recall so it would have had to be done wrong twice, by two different people, for the issue to be caused by the damper. Still, the car is otherwise new so not sure what else it might be, other than tires, which I’ll deflate a bit.

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