Steer Smarts tie rod, draglinks, front track bar

[James Cole]

Hello guys,

Will this mods greatly improve my steering on a 19 JLUS? Or is this only for lifts?

Its stock lift and will keep it that way but would prefer tighter steering, alingment specs are all ok.

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[Huehue80]

Hello guys,

Will this mods greatly improve my steering on a 19 JLUS? Or is this only for lifts?

Its stock lift and will keep it that way but would prefer tighter steering, alingment specs are all ok.

James, with no lift you could improve your steering by getting a more solid track bar as well as a better steering stabilizer. I recommend calling steer smarts and asking them what they would recommend.

On my lifted Jeep I run the SS draglink and tierod along with a falcon nexus 2.2 stabilizer, feels great. I already have a solid track bar with my MK lift.

The steering feels Better but not quite like my Camaro’s.The Jeep will never feel super tight because of the solid axle and the steering setup.

With the adjustable stabilizer It has three settings. Soft for off-road use/ medium for normal driving/ and firm for highway use. If you like a heavier feel steering you could keep it on firm. I would start with the Stabilizer then go from there to the other components.

Also lower your psi in your tires should be around 32 for stock tires not the 38 they come with

Hope that helps.
Cohan

 

[James Cole]

Thanks Cohan! Will look into it.

 

[T's_FreedomRubi]

James, with no lift you could improve your steering by getting a more solid track bar as well as a better steering stabilizer. I recommend calling steer smarts and asking them what they would recommend.

On my lifted Jeep I run the SS draglink and tierod along with a falcon nexus 2.2 stabilizer, feels great. I already have a solid track bar with my MK lift.

The steering feels Better but not quite like my Camaro’s.The Jeep will never feel super tight because of the solid axle and the steering setup.

With the adjustable stabilizer It has three settings. Soft for off-road use/ medium for normal driving/ and firm for highway use. If you like a heavier feel steering you could keep it on firm. I would start with the Stabilizer then go from there to the other components.

Also lower your psi in your tires should be around 32 for stock tires not the 38 they come with

Hope that helps.
Cohan

Hey i got a 2019 JLUR with the Metalcloak 3.5 Game changer Rocksport and 37s on beadlock.

I'm wondering if i need to get the top mount or bottom mount for the Steer Smarts drag link. Ive seen that SS does not recommend their top mount no drill for people who have the MK 3.5.
So im guessing you got the bottom mount??
Or did you make sure you got enough bump stop (at least 3") and a bracket for the MK track bar as well so everything is parallel??

 

[Huehue80]

Hey i got a 2019 JLUR with the Metalcloak 3.5 Game changer Rocksport and 37s on beadlock.

I'm wondering if i need to get the top mount or bottom mount for the Steer Smarts drag link. Ive seen that SS does not recommend their top mount no drill for people who have the MK 3.5.
So im guessing you got the bottom mount??
Or did you make sure you got enough bump stop (at least 3") and a bracket for the MK track bar as well so everything is parallel??

I originally installed the top mount. It was way too close to the frame while the Jeep was articulated. I had to run 4 bump stops with that setup. Now I have the bottom mount and only 2 bump stops.

The Jeep drives the same with either installed. I would just go with the bottom mount draglink, its a great setup.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Hey i got a 2019 JLUR with the Metalcloak 3.5 Game changer Rocksport and 37s on beadlock.

I'm wondering if i need to get the top mount or bottom mount for the Steer Smarts drag link. Ive seen that SS does not recommend their top mount no drill for people who have the MK 3.5.
So im guessing you got the bottom mount??
Or did you make sure you got enough bump stop (at least 3") and a bracket for the MK track bar as well so everything is parallel??

Bottom mount for sure. 3 pucks unless going aftermarket fenders or AAL highline fender leds. We have than and I’m pulling a puck due to how much room I have know. No need for the relocation bracket for the trackbar, only the steering stabilizer

Brett

 

[James Cole]

Well just ordered Steer Smarts full setup for my completely stock Sahara.

Probably wont feel much of a difference since I wont be on a lift or large tires but will let you guys know.

As for the Griffin Attenuator do you guys think is worth it?

JC

 

[River City Offroad]

Well just ordered Steer Smarts full setup for my completely stock Sahara.

Probably wont feel much of a difference since I wont be on a lift or large tires but will let you guys know.

As for the Griffin Attenuator do you guys think is worth it?

JC

You will definitely notice a difference. The stock parts are flimsy in comparison and you feel it in the steering.

I personally don't ever recommend the Griffin setup. Just something else to wear out IMO.

Marcus

 

[GhostDivers]

Hey @rustyshakelford , or anyone else. Would you mind helping me with a few questions?

1. Is there any trick needed to get to the draglink nut to remove and re-installed, specifically to torque it down?
   • It looks pretty tight up there with the sway bar disconnect and the winch in front
2. The OEM draglink has a bend to access the track bar bolt with an extension…with this setup, can it be accessed in a similar way?
3. I’m seeing an XD Pro version of the track bar on some sites…rubber vs. poly; thoughts on which is preferred?

Thanks!

 

[rustyshakelford]

Hey @rustyshakelford , or anyone else. Would you mind helping me with a few questions?

1. Is there any trick needed to get to the draglink nut to remove and re-installed, specifically to torque it down?
   • It looks pretty tight up there with the sway bar disconnect and the winch in front
2. The OEM draglink has a bend to access the track bar bolt with an extension…with this setup, can it be accessed in a similar way?
3. I’m seeing an XD Pro version of the track bar on some sites…rubber vs. poly; thoughts on which is preferred?

Thanks!

1. Pull the passenger side tire off. Pulling the drivers off will free up some room for getting the draglink off the pitman arm. It’s on there tight. Air hammer with pickle fork if you have one. If not, pickle fork and bfh.
—plenty of room to do what you need to to.

2. Turn the steering wheel hard passenger and it’ll open up a gap for the axle side track bar bolt. Doing it that way allows you to use a deep 21mm socket and 1/2”drive without an extension.

3. No input as we just use the regular yeti steer smart track bars.

Brett

 

[MarkY3130]

Hey @rustyshakelford , or anyone else. Would you mind helping me with a few questions?

1. Is there any trick needed to get to the draglink nut to remove and re-installed, specifically to torque it down?
   • It looks pretty tight up there with the sway bar disconnect and the winch in front
2. The OEM draglink has a bend to access the track bar bolt with an extension…with this setup, can it be accessed in a similar way?
3. I’m seeing an XD Pro version of the track bar on some sites…rubber vs. poly; thoughts on which is preferred?

Thanks!

Brett answered your questions, so I’ll just add that when installing the new drag link on the pitman arm end, I was able to get my normal torque wrench on it with a “wobble” socket and get it torqued down. If I remember right, the handle was into the area on the backside of the bumper (cavity of the bumper) and that’s where I found I could rotate the handle best, even if small increments is all I could get.

 

[James Cole]

Helli guys...

I was not able to make my falcon damper fit because my sahara is not lowered... it hits at the top when going over bumps and if I move it a bit it scrapes with the pitman arm... what are my options?

 

[GhostDivers]

@rustyshakelford & @MarkY3130 , thank you for the advice!

I don't have an air hammer, but I do have a pickle fork. I'd like to use a dead blow hammer (thoughts?), but worse case, I'll get out the big one...I'll blame it on getting a little older, but the dead blow is much easier on me and my ears.

My winch and winch plate take a good portion of the room in the bumper cavity, but to both of your points...there's room, just need to get the right angles and small increments.

One more question - did you put the jack stands under the frame or axle?

Thanks again, you all Rock!

 

[rustyshakelford]

@rustyshakelford & @MarkY3130 , thank you for the advice!

I don't have an air hammer, but I do have a pickle fork. I'd like to use a dead blow hammer (thoughts?), but worse case, I'll get out the big one...I'll blame it on getting a little older, but the dead blow is much easier on me and my ears.

My winch and winch plate take a good portion of the room in the bumper cavity, but to both of your points...there's room, just need to get the right angles and small increments.

One more question - did you put the jack stands under the frame or axle?

Thanks again, you all Rock!

If you go under the axles, it’ll be close enough to ride height. Wear some ear and eye pro. If you have a 3-4 lb mallet you can use that. A dead blow won’t get it in my opinion. Those things are really on there. I did my first one on a lift and had all the room in the world and it was rough doing it by hand. Maybe a buddy has an air hammer?

Taking the tires off is a must to me. Will also give you plenty of room to work

Brett

 

[GhostDivers]

If you go under the axles, it’ll be close enough to ride height. Wear some ear and eye pro. If you have a 3-4 lb mallet you can use that. A dead blow won’t get it in my opinion. Those things are really on there. I did my first one on a lift and had all the room in the world and it was rough doing it by hand. Maybe a buddy has an air hammer?

Taking the tires off is a must to me. Will also give you plenty of room to work

Brett

Thanks for the guidance, huge help! I’ll put the stands under the axle and will 100% take the tires off. The only guy I know with an air hammer is a couple hours away…

Could I use an electric hammer? They rent those at the Lowe’s near me and/or someone I know local has to have one…I would just need a ball joint pickle fork attachment; correct?

I haven’t ordered the three SS parts or a new stabilizer (probably going with the JK version of the Fox TS) yet…I need to bring the Jeep to the dealership for warranty work on the clutch, the radio (again…) and they want to look at the steering…Guessing I’ll be ordering once that trip is done.

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