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Stay 3.5” or go 4.5” lift on current setup?

What would you do?


  • Total voters
    22

JeepersCreepers81

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Currently running a Clayton 3.5” Overlander lift on 40s. I ordered some RK 4.5” front and real coils along with new Fox 2.0 shocks, but now I’m kind of second guessing myself.. the whole lower CG vs limited flex dilemma. What do you guys think? Here’s how it sits now with the Clayton 3.5” kit. I’m really debating just trimming to keep the current 3.5” I have now and sending the 4.5” stuff back and putting it towards other stuff. Thoughts/opinions please!

6A414E26-159F-4EEE-9878-F70B2759813A.jpeg


9ACA766D-DA80-4382-B5F1-A9D50709F859.jpeg


69A73DF1-A5AF-45C8-9AD5-24E2A1CD81CA.jpeg
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bjm00se

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Longer springs don't increase clearance. Longer bump-stops do.

I'm not sure how we're supposed to vote, given you haven't told us how you use your jeep, what your goals are, where it's rubbing, or even how tall you are, and whether or not it currently fits in your garage.
 
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JeepersCreepers81

JeepersCreepers81

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I’m 6’7”. It fits in the garage now no problem with room to spare. As far as the rubbing, any kind of articulation and it’s going to rub… it will need cutting on the rear pinch seams behind the rear tires, and the outer ends of the rock rails both front and rear. It’s not rubbing now only because I’ve been driving it on flat pavement. I use it as my daily driver (at least for now). Ideally I’d like to do a long arm coil over kit in the future, which is another reason I’m debating just leaving the 3.5” on and not putting any more money into the suspension if I’m going to be doing that eventually. I honestly don’t wheel it too hard, I’d say light to moderate off roading/light rock crawling, but I would like it to be capable of the harder stuff eventually.
 

Headbarcode

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Being the first to vote, I feel the need to explain.

I built my JLUR up for rock crawling, but it also serves as my daily driver. I used to have the 3.5" Metalcloak Gamechanger and 38x13.5's, which was a great combination. I wanted to further increase the diff clearance and approach/breakover/departure angles, so I bumped up to 40x13.5's. Not liking the loss of uptravel due to the larger tires, I swapped out the 3.5" springs for Metalcloaks new 4.5" springs. I only mention what I've done to my Jeep, so you know that I know where you're coming from.

I voted to stick with the 3.5's and trim as needed, for 2 main reasons. Firstly, you still seem a bit all over the place, so you and your wallet ate best off sticking with what you have until you become more decisive. Secondly, you'll need to trim for the 40's regardless of lift height or specific setup.

Since I'm a picture whore, here's 3.5" and 38's, 3.5" and 40's, and 4.5" and 40's...

Jeep Wrangler JL Stay 3.5” or go 4.5” lift on current setup? 20211013_132632
Jeep Wrangler JL Stay 3.5” or go 4.5” lift on current setup? 20211014_133132
Jeep Wrangler JL Stay 3.5” or go 4.5” lift on current setup? 20220806_091606
 

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Jeep Dude

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Being the first to vote, I feel the need to explain.

I built my JLUR up for rock crawling, but it also serves as my daily driver. I used to have the 3.5" Metalcloak Gamechanger and 38x13.5's, which was a great combination. I wanted to further increase the diff clearance and approach/breakover/departure angles, so I bumped up to 40x13.5's. Not liking the loss of uptravel due to the larger tires, I swapped out the 3.5" springs for Metalcloaks new 4.5" springs. I only mention what I've done to my Jeep, so you know that I know where you're coming from.

I voted to stick with the 3.5's and trim as needed, for 2 main reasons. Firstly, you still seem a bit all over the place, so you and your wallet ate best off sticking with what you have until you become more decisive. Secondly, you'll need to trim for the 40's regardless of lift height or specific setup.

Since I'm a picture whore, here's 3.5" and 38's, 3.5" and 40's, and 4.5" and 40's...

20211013_132632.jpg
20211014_133132.jpg
20220806_091606.jpg
You need the 5.5" ASAP! 😆 https://metalcloak.com/jl-wrangler-4-door-5-5in-true-dual-rate-coils.html

https://metalcloak.com/jl-jt-true-dual-rate-coils-4-door-5-5-4-5-front-pair.html

Does one still need to trim with the 5.5" springs and 40" tires? 🤔
 

Headbarcode

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No thanks. I'm sitting at the perfect height for 40's with the 4.5" springs. Plus, my 4'10.5" wife would skin me alive if I made it higher.

Climbing in and out has already earned her the right to add amateur acrobatics to her resume skills.

When she jumps off of the slider, she can get the whole word "Geronimo" out before she reaches the ground.

Regardless of ride height, the same trimming needs to be done. Tire size is what dictates the trim, assuming the compressed length of the shocks isn't limiting uptravel.
 

C.Sco

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My opinion, which is worth every penny you're paying for it since everyone is different and I'm not you, is that you should keep your center of gravity lower with the current 3.5" lift, and get the flex you want by trimming / changing fenders etc.
 

DLW

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Hey @Roky and @Headbarcode
I am truly curious and respect your opinions here, but why it would perform better on 40's with 4.5" springs? I agree about the looks though.

I do see some benefits to it as Headbarcode stated (better approach/breakover/departure angles and more belly clearance), but I have been debating this 3.5 vs 4.5 with 40's thing myself for a while now. If I went with 4.5" springs over 3.5" springs, I basically get more up travel, but lose down travel (droop), so that part is kind of a wash. If I were blasting down the desert, then the extra up travel makes since depending on how much shock shaft is showing, I don't need 7-8" of up travel for example.

I guess there are pros and cons of each. The 4.5" springs are looking attractive with drop brackets right now. But, I have brand new MC 3.5" springs in the garage, lol...And the better CG and suspension geometry also looks attractive.
 

Roky

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Hey @Roky and @Headbarcode
I am truly curious and respect your opinions here, but why it would perform better on 40's with 4.5" springs? I agree about the looks though.

I do see some benefits to it as Headbarcode stated (better approach/breakover/departure angles and more belly clearance), but I have been debating this 3.5 vs 4.5 with 40's thing myself for a while now. If I went with 4.5" springs over 3.5" springs, I basically get more up travel, but lose down travel (droop), so that part is kind of a wash. If I were blasting down the desert, then the extra up travel makes since depending on how much shock shaft is showing, I don't need 7-8" of up travel for example.

I guess there are pros and cons of each. The 4.5" springs are looking attractive with drop brackets right now. But, I have brand new MC 3.5" springs in the garage, lol...And the better CG and suspension geometry also looks attractive.
I was talking about better approach/break over/ departure angles, a little more rock rail clearance. But also having more room for articulation, and not having to run as much bump to keep tires out of the fenders, shit like that……. But that could be fixed with aftermarket or chopping oem fenders and running aftermarket liners if you want to run the 3.5” springs.. it’s likely you’re going to net more than that anyway with MC springs……

If you already have the 3.5 springs, throw em on and see what’s what….. if you think you need a little more height you can always throw in a 1/2 or 3/4” spacer….. another thing is the extra inch will help with the low hanging fruit ( drop brackets), also if you want/need to run high steer, it’s better with 4.5 and up of lift………
 

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What are you (or do you need to be) bumped at? It'd be worth to see what your uptravel is currently and think about that when you decide on spring height.
 

somedude922

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Keep what ya got. If you are true to your future plans, why throw money at it.
 

Headbarcode

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Hey @Roky and @Headbarcode
I am truly curious and respect your opinions here, but why it would perform better on 40's with 4.5" springs? I agree about the looks though.

I do see some benefits to it as Headbarcode stated (better approach/breakover/departure angles and more belly clearance), but I have been debating this 3.5 vs 4.5 with 40's thing myself for a while now. If I went with 4.5" springs over 3.5" springs, I basically get more up travel, but lose down travel (droop), so that part is kind of a wash. If I were blasting down the desert, then the extra up travel makes since depending on how much shock shaft is showing, I don't need 7-8" of up travel for example.

I guess there are pros and cons of each. The 4.5" springs are looking attractive with drop brackets right now. But, I have brand new MC 3.5" springs in the garage, lol...And the better CG and suspension geometry also looks attractive.
I've had the Metalcloak 6-packs for a while now. They get paired with front upper and rear lower shock relocation mounts that bring the total extended length to over 31" between mounting bolt centers.

At full flex, the drooped front 3.5" springs were unseating from the lower saddles. I was on the verge of adding limiting straps, when I heard about Metalcloak coming out with 4.5" springs. Around the same time, I was also not crazy about the loss of uptravel I was seeing after swapping to 40's. The 4.5" springs not only got the uptravel back, but also allowed full flex without unweighting the spring saddles, so usable droop also increased.

Uptravel isn't just beneficial to high-speed desert running. It's also a benefit to rock crawling, which is what I'm building for. Uptravel plays a big role in how high a front tire can climb, while maintaining traction at the other 3 tires.

Obviously, droop amount is the other half of the equation. As long as you have some form of long travel shocks that extend to 31"+, the 4.5" springs are a great combo with 40's.

As far as center of gravity, my Jeep feels more solid and planted now than it did in stock form. I do get a bit more body roll in the corners due to the front and rear Antirocks with .770" bars, but certain things like widening the tire to tire footprint and raising the rear roll center really does a lot to offset the higher ride height.
 

Old Jeeper

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Currently running a Clayton 3.5” Overlander lift on 40s. I ordered some RK 4.5” front and real coils along with new Fox 2.0 shocks, but now I’m kind of second guessing myself.. the whole lower CG vs limited flex dilemma. What do you guys think? Here’s how it sits now with the Clayton 3.5” kit. I’m really debating just trimming to keep the current 3.5” I have now and sending the 4.5” stuff back and putting it towards other stuff. Thoughts/opinions please!

Jeep Wrangler JL Stay 3.5” or go 4.5” lift on current setup? 20220806_091606


Jeep Wrangler JL Stay 3.5” or go 4.5” lift on current setup? 20220806_091606


Jeep Wrangler JL Stay 3.5” or go 4.5” lift on current setup? 20220806_091606
FWIW: I voted 3.5, BUT if the curb at the Sonic Drive in is your cup of Tea then and your jeep is all show and no go, 4.5 looks TOUGH.

3.5, there is no named trail I know of in the US that a Rubicon cannot tackle and win in OEM form. A 3.5 lift will AID in accomplishing.

I used to lead runs in Moab and other places. I have a run in in Moab and I only lead runs on 7++ trails. This run like most is off-season and we are gathered in the parking lot in Moab and this guy come driving in. He had bought his new TJR Rubicon on Sat and drove over on Sun from Denver.

He come driving up and there is no one else on the beautiful Fall day on a Monday. He asks if he can come with us. He wants to come and I tell him you TJR is box stock, OEM and today we are running Pritchett Canyon up and tomorrow running backwards.

SO I ask my folks and tell them. P-Canyon is no stranger to me, its a tough trail, but I have done many times in both directions and I can get thru the trail. Can he come with us? They said if I can get him his thru then lets do it.

NOTE: On my trail runs I am the ONLY spotter and the only guy that winches.

Off we go and we get into P-Canyon and at the first really thought obstacle he snaps his TJR Passenger side front axle.

Believe it or not I put him behind me and spotted him and got him thru P-Canyon. Having a locker he still had the driver side from axle working for him.


Take Away: The Rubicon was named after the Rubicon trail and that was the Metric used by Jeep to go forward with the Rubicon project...it had to do the Rubicon Trail in OEM box stock format. He shows up with a good set of tires, GY MTRs, but no lift or anything else but a TJR. You don't need 4.5 if you are going to wheel it. 3.5 & 37s will do any trail from Utah to Mexico and Texas to Cali, ask me how I know!

Your Jeep, your Wallet, you pride of ride and anything you choose I will back you 100%

NEVER poor mouth a man's or a woman's Jeep and Never poor mouth them....the only exception is: If they engage or install something that would result in a catastrophic event on or off road. Say something before someone gets hurt!
 
 



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