start/stop not working?

GreyFox

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Several here including me have had batteries go bad within a few months but as stated get yourself a trickle charger and let it go until it goes to float mode and see if the issue is resolved, lots don’t realize that an alternator is not designed to charge a battery on short trips it’s designed to maintain it so unless you go on a long trip your battery never really fully charges. I put my JL on a tender once a month
Did you find a date for your JL;)... Lol I know you meant "trickle" and your phone changed it to "tender":like:. But I'm extremely bored sitting here waiting on my husband's hip replacement. Excellent advice. I haven't had to use one yet.
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WranglerMan

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Did you find a date for your JL;)... Lol I know you meant "trickle" and your phone changed it to "tender":like:. But I'm extremely bored sitting here waiting on my husband's hip replacement. Excellent advice. I haven't had to use one yet.
I always say tender or trickle charger, Deltran calls the one I have a “ Battery Tender Plus” and I call it a trickle charger and it only charges at the 1.25 a rate

I would get a tender/trickle charger as they are fairly inexpensive and if you don’t drive your vehicle a lot it can keep your battery healthy, just remember don’t get a charger you need a tender or smart charger as the latter goes into float mode when it senses the battery is fully charged
 

GreyFox

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I always say tender or trickle charger, Deltran calls the one I have a “ Battery Tender Plus” and I call it a trickle charger and it only charges at the 1.25 a rate

I would get a tender/trickle charger as they are fairly inexpensive and if you don’t drive your vehicle a lot it can keep your battery healthy, just remember don’t get a charger you need a tender or smart charger as the latter goes into float mode when it senses the battery is fully charged
Lol see I learn something everyday:like: hmm, I've put about 5k miles on since Christmas. I live in the country, so a trip to the store is always a good 25-30 mins. I haven't had this message, so I'm figuring that I'm driving it long enough. Any suggestions on the charger?
 

Abend

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good call...

“start/stop not ready battery protection mode”

i’m guessing this means the battery is low. not sure how to check that other than a trip to dealer? which battery? ugh - don’t have time for this. it only has 217 miles on it! lol

any suggestions?
appreciate your help
It might just be working as designed. Was your wife in stop and go traffic when she drove it? That will run the ESS battery down from the repeated stops/starts and then the system will disengage until the battery has charged up to an acceptable level again. I'd just drive it around on the highway and see if the battery charges on its own. If it does, it's working fine. If not, take it to the dealer for warranty repair.
 

Maverick909

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ive had this message a few times. It seems to go away after about 30-40 mins of highway driving it goes away. i know this is due to lack of driving on my part. I have a company truck that does all my week day stuff and then the weekend is for jeeping. LOL even then i do not do alot of weekend driving unless i am off-roading or going camping. I will be adding a battery tender/float charger in the near future though. i keep my 76 on a tender charger all the time. Good luck!
 

WranglerMan

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Lol see I learn something everyday:like: hmm, I've put about 5k miles on since Christmas. I live in the country, so a trip to the store is always a good 25-30 mins. I haven't had this message, so I'm figuring that I'm driving it long enough. Any suggestions on the charger?
Any vehicle parked for days at a time is a slow death for a battery and just starting it and letting it run at idle for 5-10 mins as most do thinking it’s going to charge the battery makes it even worst as the amps needed to start pull the battery down even further and a 5-10 idle period is not even close to putting the lost volts back into the battery.

Interstate battery claims that using a smart charger on a regular basis for a vehicle that sits idle for long periods or uses that same vehicle on short trips can improve battery health and longevity by as much as 30% or more and these newer vehicles with all there electronics seem to have a higher parasitic draw than vehicles from days gone by.

Deltran makes a very nice tender that is not to pricey and does the job well

Battery Tender Plus 021-0128, 1.25 Amp Battery Charger is a Smart Charger, it will... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_3G1gDbK7WQFRZ
 

Rahneld

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I appreciate the info about the work around but I'm not really interested in messing with things beyond the intended design when it comes to these batteries. All I want is for it to work the way it's supposed to. I'm guessing it might need a trickle charge as per another's post. Wouldn't just driving it recharge the battery? How low could it have gotten over night (start/stop worked yesterday)? more importantly, why??
You would think that, as you mention, driving the 3.6JL would alone, provide current from the engine powering the alternator, to then charge the batteries--I agree.

Some owners report this trickle charger necessary and I would guess it is a combination of the way they might drive (more/shorter trips), maybe a marginal battery or two, and appliances that draw power from the JL even when at rest.

I may have all three. I have a dash cam that runs all the time, and while it is set to stop working should it, while the vehcile is at rest, run the batteries voltages to a threshold much higher than needed to crank the vehicle, that voltage may be lower than that needed to engage ESS. I talk of two batteries here because those batteries are hooked in parallel when the 3.6L JL is at rest.

Before attempting an ESS event, as you may know, the 3.6L JL will make sure that the ESS battery has adequate charge. If it does, and all the other conditions for ESS are met--and there are many-- from the temperature of the engine, to the angle of the JL, to the turn of the steering wheel....

even then, should the ESS battery become too depleted during an ESS event, the event will end earlier and the engine will be recranked.

This is all so the ESS battery has enough kick to perform its essential job in cranking the engine by signalling the starter relay all by itself.

The thing of it is though that Wrangler engineers adopted this same method of cold cranking the JL as warm cranking it at the end of an ESS event, and I think that was wrong--the sole reliance on the ESS/Aux battery. Still more, I think that FCA could change that by merely changing software and downloading it to the rigs out there.

IMHO what should happen is that if, while at rest, either battery becomes a parasitic drain to the other, the parallel connection between the batteries while the rig is parked should be broken...and that cold crank should occur if either battery has juice.

A somewhat depleted ESS battery presents less issue at warm crank because, as mentioned, the 3.6L JL won't ever allow ESS event to happen in the first place if that battery's charge is inadequate, or break out of the ESS event prematurely if necessary.

Jerry's @Jebiruph's technique basically allows either both batteries to notify the starter relay by keeping the batteries in parallel at all times. Without it, the batteries are in parallel 99.99% of the time but from a moment during cranking, and during ESS events where the ESS battery powers all, and the main battery rests to have the power to do most of the work involved in turning the starter.

I agree the ESS battery appears fickle despite all of FCA's reported testing. I'd like to see down the road how this tiny battery fairs with time and seasonal weather changes.

ESS sucks and I'm one of its few supporters. It is a stop gap measure for vehicle manufacturers to try to raise MPG rating by small amounts to meet Federal fleet standards, until someone can devise a better rig, be it electrc only/mostly, and involve things like regenerative braking and better batteries.

Do the small gas savings add up across an entire fleet---sure, which is why I keep mine running. But the cost is my using energy from my house (and my time doing this), which I rationalize because I buy only renewable source energy on the open market for my residence.
 

Rahneld

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no, it didn't reference the aux battery. it said, "start/stop not ready battery protection mode". it might be in reference to the aux battery but it didn't say that it was.
Although I am not certain, I think it's safe to say that this message occurred because the JL continually tests the voltage in the ESS battery (alone, or across both batteries) and won't allow ESS to engage if the voltage readings are low.

We can sit here with facts or even as people debating whether this voltage test is solely against the ESS battery or both batteries in actuality, all while noting, for all intents and purposes, that it's really a test against both batteries in practice.

I say this because 99.99% of the time the two batteries are in parallel, and as a result, they are like two tanks of water connected by a pipe closest to the ground. That connection will cause both tanks to have the same height water column (voltage) as the "water seeks its own level" and the hydrostatic pressure is equalized, barring problems with either or both batteries.

Jerry @Jebiruph had an excellent pictoral post showing this. I can search for the link if you wish.
 
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battery healed. start/stop working.
 

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I appreciate the info about the work around but I'm not really interested in messing with things beyond the intended design when it comes to these batteries. All I want is for it to work the way it's supposed to. I'm guessing it might need a trickle charge as per another's post. Wouldn't just driving it recharge the battery? How low could it have gotten over night (start/stop worked yesterday)? more importantly, why??
Depends on the temperature outside. If it is too hot, because it is summer, or too cold, winter, ESS will not regularly engage. Your comfort is more important than sitting in traffic with the air off on a hot day. Go figure.

To test if the system is working properly, turn off auto climate control when at a traffic light. If the engine turns off, it works. If the “ESS not ready” message is on your screen, it’s not ready. If it never turns off then schedule an appt.
 
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