SSV Works Soundbar 6.5" speaker adapter installed

[Varilux]

Thanks for this thread, it's reassuring to see some of the speakers folks are using in their soundbar with the SSV adapters. Has anyone run into any issues with the 6.5" speaker depth and it fitting into the soundbar pods with the adapter in place? I'm worried about the speakers I'm looking at Here being too deep to fit into the soundbar once I get the adapters in place.

Any thoughts? And thanks for the help! I'm going to look up the Alpine 6.5's mentioned and see their depth.

Looks like the mounting depth is 2 5/8". If that's the actual depth, I would think you should be fine. When you mount to the outside surface of the SSV pod, there's quite a bit of depth to work with.

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[crackrk]

Has anyone run into any issues with the 6.5" speaker depth and it fitting into the soundbar pods with the adapter in place?

Any thoughts? And thanks for the help! I'm going to look up the Alpine 6.5's mentioned and see their depth.

Alpine 6.5 r version 2 fit just fine.

 

[JohnnyJLUR]

I wanted to give a quick update and a PSA on what not to do! LOL I installed my SSV Works Soundbar 6.5" Speaker Adaptor with the SSV Works WP-A6 6 3/4" speakers...I also ordered the SSV Works red grill stars to match all the Rubicon red accents.

PSA: I DID NOT remove the soundbar and used a jigsaw to cut out the speaker mounts...like and idiot, I severed the GPS and SXM coaxials and had to order a new cord (68353825AE is the part number). it will run you $55-$85 depending on where you order it. I have not installed it yet. The GPA/SXM receivers are mounted on top of the center roll bar and the cord runs down the driver side A-pillar.

I have the Alpine system, so just the SSV speaker would not work. I tried attaching both the tweeter and low/mid (post crossover) to the same SSV speaker and it overloaded at higher than normal volumes. The SSV soundbar plate is cut out for a 2.75" speaker. I ordered some SUNDOWN AUDIO SA-2.75 speakers. I used one existing hole and had to drill another hole to mount the 2.75" speakers. You will also have to drill a hole and get some tweeter covers for the cover. I plugged in the soundbar to test them out and the sound is AMAZING!
I still need to do the front knee speakers with the Metra JP-1014 and will use the SSV Works 6.5" Speakers.

Here is some eye candy for you all:

Here is what it looks like put together. Notice the tweeter hole to the side. There is a template on the back of the cover you can use as a template to cut out with a hole saw bit. I chose to mount the 2.75" speaker to the adapter plate rather than the cover. I felt this will create less vibration and be sturdier.

Notice there are 3 10mm bolts and a plastic tab on each side to hold the sound bar in place. You can also see the connector for the speaker wires in the center. And to rub slat in my wounds...you can see the jigsaw cut that severed my GPS & SXM coaxials...DOH!

Here is what the SSV adapter plate looks like installed. Notice the hole for the 2.75" speaker to the right. You will need to cut that hole out for if you have the Alpine system for the component speakers.

My destruction from the jigsaw on the sound bar...just some scratched up paint that I will never see. You can see the coaxial GPS & SXM cord to the left. My Alien Paul is sitting on top of the rear view mirror laughing at me.

And here is the severed cord. I am happy I chose a different profession!

 

[jeeplaw]

Great write up, but question, how did you cut through the cord? Isnt it outside and on top? What would you do differently next time?

In terms of overloading the speaker...if you had a beefier 6.5 that handled more wattage do you think that would work versus having to split off to a 2.75 driver?

 

[JohnnyJLUR]

Great write up, but question, how did you cut through the cord? Isnt it outside and on top? What would you do differently next time?

In terms of overloading the speaker...if you had a beefier 6.5 that handled more wattage do you think that would work versus having to split off to a 2.75 driver?

The coaxial runs right behind the the soundbar on the drivers side. I was lazy and should have taken off the soundbar...which is not an easy task. You have to take off 5 trip pieces and then take out the 6 bolts and pull the soundbar down.

As for the SSV 6.75" speaker, I could not figure out how to wire it since the crossover is back at the subwoofer in the back. I went the path of least resistance and used the Sundown 2.75" speaker. I was floored by how good the setup sounded with the Sundown speaker. It finally has the nice deep mid range bass and the highs are very nice but not too tinny sounding like a kicker speaker gives you.

As a disclosure, I have JBL Club 3020 3.5" 2 way speakers in the dash...I love those speakers. I have used them in a few Jeeps now.

I cannot wait to get the matching SSV speakers put into the knee speakers. The Alpine system and 8.4" head unit are not bad....the weak link is the terrible, odd sized speakers that FCA cheaped out on and used.

 

[STxWrangler]

Thanks a lot of one outstanding post! I am in the middle of changing out stock speakers with bigger, (hopefully better), speakers and this makes my due diligence for the sounder speaker changes a no-brainer.

"After some head scratching (and a bit of swearing), I turned everything off and walked away for awhile (which I finds helps a lot on some projects)."

This statement made me chuckle because I use the exact same approach whenever I find myself in a bind or at a point of difficulty. The only difference is that my swearing continues for quite a while after I walk away...lol.

Thanks again!!

 

[STxWrangler]

So over the weekend I took my soundbar down to get it ready for my Alpine R-S65.2 speakers and all of the other stuff I was waiting for. Well, to my surprise I received everything I needed to move forward this afternoon. The speakers, SSV Works soundbar adapters and a soldering iron tip kit which included a knife for hot cutting the plastic. So I got to work. Everything went smoothly. I installed Kilmat sound deadening mat and polyfill in the speaker voids, hooked up the speakers and got everything ready for re-installing the on the Jeep. I will finish that up tomorrow. I can't wait to hear how it sounds.

The hot-knife soldering tip for cutting the plastic worked very well. Thanks to the JL member (maybe from another thread) that offered that suggestion...it worked great.

 

[emgeesea]

The coaxial runs right behind the the soundbar on the drivers side. I was lazy and should have taken off the soundbar...which is not an easy task. You have to take off 5 trip pieces and then take out the 6 bolts and pull the soundbar down.

As for the SSV 6.75" speaker, I could not figure out how to wire it since the crossover is back at the subwoofer in the back. I went the path of least resistance and used the Sundown 2.75" speaker. I was floored by how good the setup sounded with the Sundown speaker. It finally has the nice deep mid range bass and the highs are very nice but not too tinny sounding like a kicker speaker gives you.

As a disclosure, I have JBL Club 3020 3.5" 2 way speakers in the dash...I love those speakers. I have used them in a few Jeeps now.

I cannot wait to get the matching SSV speakers put into the knee speakers. The Alpine system and 8.4" head unit are not bad....the weak link is the terrible, odd sized speakers that FCA cheaped out on and used.

I just bought the SSV kit and cut the first hole using a Dremel. What a PITA! But it came out well. I like the next guy's idea of using a hot knife. I may do that for the second hole toorrow.

My question: how did you wire the new speakers to the OEM wiring? I'm using Alpine R Series 6.5" speakers. They have male flat connectors soldered directly to them (so no ability to cut and splice), and they don't come with the female connectors. I'm not even sure of the sizes of the required female connectors. I'm hoping someone sells a connector kit with the female flat connectors on one end and the OEM modular connector on the other. Too much to hope for?

 

[STxWrangler]

I just bought the SSV kit and cut the first hole using a Dremel. What a PITA! But it came out well. I like the next guy's idea of using a hot knife. I may do that for the second hole toorrow.

My question: how did you wire the new speakers to the OEM wiring? I'm using Alpine R Series 6.5" speakers. They have male flat connectors soldered directly to them (so no ability to cut and splice), and they don't come with the female connectors. I'm not even sure of the sizes of the required female connectors. I'm hoping someone sells a connector kit with the female flat connectors on one end and the OEM modular connector on the other. Too much to hope for?

I had some spare flat female connectors that I spliced in with the wiring from the Jeep. Yes, I had to cut off the OEM modular connector.

 

[jdhunt0]

...but I can now crank the volume the whole way to 38...

I have the non-Alpine 7” radio and my volume only goes to 30.

 

[emgeesea]

I just bought the SSV kit and cut the first hole using a Dremel. What a PITA! But it came out well. I like the next guy's idea of using a hot knife. I may do that for the second hole toorrow.

My question: how did you wire the new speakers to the OEM wiring? I'm using Alpine R Series 6.5" speakers. They have male flat connectors soldered directly to them (so no ability to cut and splice), and they don't come with the female connectors. I'm not even sure of the sizes of the required female connectors. I'm hoping someone sells a connector kit with the female flat connectors on one end and the OEM modular connector on the other. Too much to hope for?

I have the non-Alpine 7” radio and my volume only goes to 30.

Yes, mine did the same before I added an amp. The factory head unit just doesn't have enough power to do any more. Now, I can get to the limit at 40. And the sound is much better, of course. For under $200 you can add an Alpine KTP-445 that does wonders for the sound. And it's compact, so you can fit it almost anywhere. I installed one behind the glove box in my 2010 JK, and now have one under the passenger seat in my JL.

 

[jdhunt0]

I don't think you understood, my volume only goes to 30. That is the max, it will not show any number higher than 30.

 

[emgeesea]

I don't think you understood, my volume only goes to 30. That is the max, it will not show any number higher than 30.

Oh. That's odd.

 

[Varilux]

For under $200 you can add an Alpine KTP-445 that does wonders for the sound. And it's compact, so you can fit it almost anywhere. I installed one behind the glove box in my 2010 JK, and now have one under the passenger seat in my JL.

Are you saying the Alpine KTP-445 can be added directly to the non-premium (i.e., non-amplified) system in a JL? I have the 7" screen base head unit- if all I have to do is plug and play, that would be incredible! I've been wanting to add an amp- but didn't want to mess around with adding resistors to each of the speaker feeds. If it's really plug and play, you're my new audio hero (and I can't believe I haven't seen this solution posted anywhere else)!

 

[emgeesea]

Are you saying the Alpine KTP-445 can be added directly to the non-premium (i.e., non-amplified) system in a JL? I have the 7" screen base head unit- if all I have to do is plug and play, that would be incredible! I've been wanting to add an amp- but didn't want to mess around with adding resistors to each of the speaker feeds. If it's really plug and play, you're my new audio hero (and I can't believe I haven't seen this solution posted anywhere else)!

I have the same 7" non-Alpine head unit. I don't recall whether the amp, on its own, is pure plug 'n play, as the system I am currently using it in came with harnesses that made mine plug 'n play. Check with Crutchfield; they may have a harness that makes installation of this amp plug 'n play.

And remember, while increasing power to the stock head unit will help, upgrading speakers and adding a sub woofer is really necessary to get greatly improved sound. You don't have to do all the speakers; just upgrading the dash tweeters to get better highs (which is a 10 minute swap) and adding a sub to boost bass lows will make a great difference when combined with the KTP amp.

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