Sport S vs Rubi - with a lease twist

[dalema]

I know this has been debated ad nauseam - but I wanted to ask the question within a different context.

This is my first jeep - and I plan to lease it, so resale is of no concern to me as I plan to just hand it back in when done. I'm pretty well versed in leasing, so not looking for that debate here.

Having said that, in doing some research, the residual on a Sport S is significantly better (higher) than a Rubicon. What that means is the lease payment on the Sport S is significantly lower. Not only due to the lower purchase price, but due to the higher residual.

As an example, for a fairly loaded truck with a 36 month / 12K mile lease with 5% off invoice sales price - the lease payment would be (without taxes):
- Rubicon: $521
- Sport S: $359

So about 1/3 or $160 less per month.

The above is for a JLUR and a JLUSS - I've come to terms (painfully though) that this first one will have to be a 4 door due to kids and dog.

My use case will probably be light offroading and trails and getting to the ski slopes (I'm in the Bay Area, NorCal).

Given I will take it offroad (probably just not that intense at first) - my plan was to pick up someone's Wrangler take offs - shocks, springs, wheels and tires - and probably leave it at that. And I'd make sure to spec the anti-spin diff.

Options wise I'd prob add:
- V-6
- LED lights
- Anti-spin diff
- Tow group
- Tech group
- Alpine radio
- Leather
- Cold weather (maybe)
- Safety group (unlikely)

So that's my situation - or do I just pony up for the Rubicon?

Couple of side questions while I'm at it:
- Is the perforated leather in the S, the same as the leather in the Rubicon (does it also cover the dash and sides)?
- Other than the lockers and sway bar disco - are there any other differences between the Rubi and Sport S?
- If you just put the Rubi suspension and wheels/tires on the S - do you need to do anything else - gears, fenders, speedo calibration?
- Can you put 35s on an S?

As a side note, for those that may lease - the 2 door has a comparatively low residual (bad), so it would lease at around $25/mth more than the 4 door even though the sales price is $3,500 lower.

Thanks for listening!

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[BWWJL]

When I was looking at leasing, there was a max Msrp allowed when calculating the RV on a sport s ... I forget the Lease term. You would hit it w those options and it would crank up the payment significantly.

 

[dalema]

When I was looking at leasing, there was a max Msrp allowed when calculating the RV on a sport s ... I forget the Lease term. You would hit it w those options and it would crank up the payment significantly.

Good point. My understanding was that US Bank has an MRM, but FCA doesn't - but could be wrong.

 

[entropy]

It depends on a lot of things. The Wrangler sport with the anti spin rear diff is an extremely capable vehicle, might be more than you need for the kind of wheeling you'll be doing. It is also more comfortable to drive on the road, and the sway bar disco is easily fixed by getting some quick manual disconnects and replacing the stock, which is better than the auto disconnect that comes with the rubi imo. You also have extra money to put some nice rock sliders, front bumper with a winch, etc... on it, and it is much easier to install since you don't have to remove stuff that comes on the rubi. If you happen to love off-roading you can easily upgrade your sport as you evolve into the sport, bigger tires, 2 inch lift, etc... or leave it at is if you are not doing any serious rock crawling.

The issue with leasing is that I don't know what the rules on modifying your vehicle are, since you technically don't own the jeep. In that case, a Rubi makes a lot of sense because it is already good to go, even for some serious stuff. Why not consider owning instead of leasing? these jeeps have great resale value, you'll end up much better off financially if you own unless you want a new one in 2 years, and even then, you might be surprised how much they can sell for.

 

[SecondTJ]

- Other than the lockers and sway bar disco - are there any other differences between the Rubi and Sport S?

- 4.10 gears
- 4:1 transfer case
- rocker guards
- front & rear wide track Dana 44
- bigger brakes
- 33” tires (+ available MT)
- high clearance fenders

 

[ThirtyOne]

My opinion after a year in basically the same situation - your logic is sound. But if you want 35s go ahead and get the Rubi.

This thread will inevitably digress into a lot of opinions from people who have not done what you are planning to do. So if you want to talk to someone who has then PM me.

 

[rallydefault]

Dang, for about 160 bucks less per month and only light offroading, no brainer I'd go with the Sport S. Doing the take-off extras you mentioned won't get you anywhere near nulling the payment difference; you'll still save tons of money. I've never leased a vehicle, but you're basically talking a $6,000 savings over a 36 month lease to go with the Sport S rather than the Rubi, and you're not rock crawling, so save the 6,000. If I were you, I would even recommend that you don't need huge tires with what you want to do.

I have Rubi suspension on my Sport S, but I just have the mud terrains it came with and I've gone mild offroad with no issues whatsoever.

 

[blnewt]

That option list that you want to add will surely eat in to that $160 monthly difference (or did you add all that into the pkgs?)
Might put the Sahara into your leasing search too since you're wanting a lot of options.
Sport S seem to be much more advantageous by keeping the options minimal AFAIK.

Good choice highlighting the anti-spin rear diff though, great bargain there!

 

[EZMFE]

Given I will take it offroad (probably just not that intense at first) - my plan was to pick up someone's Wrangler take offs - shocks, springs, wheels and tires - and probably leave it at that. And I'd make sure to spec the anti-spin diff.

So, when you go to turn it in and it has different shocks, springs, wheels and tires... is that a positive or a negative on their end and/or would they charge you for it... or do you plan on going back to stock before turning it in?

 

[dalema]

So, when you go to turn it in and it has different shocks, springs, wheels and tires... is that a positive or a negative on their end and/or would they charge you for it... or do you plan on going back to stock before turning it in?

The plan would be to put the original equipment back on and turn it in. Guessing they wouldn’t like mods.

 

[dalema]

It depends on a lot of things. The Wrangler sport with the anti spin rear diff is an extremely capable vehicle, might be more than you need for the kind of wheeling you'll be doing. It is also more comfortable to drive on the road, and the sway bar disco is easily fixed by getting some quick manual disconnects and replacing the stock, which is better than the auto disconnect that comes with the rubi imo. You also have extra money to put some nice rock sliders, front bumper with a winch, etc... on it, and it is much easier to install since you don't have to remove stuff that comes on the rubi. If you happen to love off-roading you can easily upgrade your sport as you evolve into the sport, bigger tires, 2 inch lift, etc... or leave it at is if you are not doing any serious rock crawling.

The issue with leasing is that I don't know what the rules on modifying your vehicle are, since you technically don't own the jeep. In that case, a Rubi makes a lot of sense because it is already good to go, even for some serious stuff. Why not consider owning instead of leasing? these jeeps have great resale value, you'll end up much better off financially if you own unless you want a new one in 2 years, and even then, you might be surprised how much they can sell for.

Thanks for the input. Yes would have to return to stock to turn it back in.

Think of it this way - leasing is an option, that you pay via a higher interest rate. The option to just walk away and hand it back in at the end or buy it out if it’s worth more than the residual. But given the residual is applied against the MSRP, and your only financing the difference between that at a high residual and what you paid (if you get a good deal off invoice) - it can work to your advantage.

Not having pay all the sales tax up front here in the great state of Calitaxation, possible tax advantages, changing up the car after 3 years, invest the saved cash elsewhere - can make it attractive. Higher interest rate sucks though.

Does putting the Rubi takeoffs on make it more viable for wheeling?

 

[dalema]

- 4.10 gears
- 4:1 transfer case
- rocker guards
- front & rear wide track Dana 44
- bigger brakes
- 33” tires (+ available MT)
- high clearance fenders

Thanks!

 

[dalema]

My opinion after a year in basically the same situation - your logic is sound. But if you want 35s go ahead and get the Rubi.

This thread will inevitably digress into a lot of opinions from people who have not done what you are planning to do. So if you want to talk to someone who has then PM me.

Awesome - will drop you a note tomorrow once I get this brisket on - but I digress

 

[dalema]

Dang, for about 160 bucks less per month and only light offroading, no brainer I'd go with the Sport S. Doing the take-off extras you mentioned won't get you anywhere near nulling the payment difference; you'll still save tons of money. I've never leased a vehicle, but you're basically talking a $6,000 savings over a 36 month lease to go with the Sport S rather than the Rubi, and you're not rock crawling, so save the 6,000. If I were you, I would even recommend that you don't need huge tires with what you want to do.

I have Rubi suspension on my Sport S, but I just have the mud terrains it came with and I've gone mild offroad with no issues whatsoever.

Super - thanks! Yep that was my logic.

 

[dalema]

That option list that you want to add will surely eat in to that $160 monthly difference (or did you add all that into the pkgs?)
Might put the Sahara into your leasing search too since you're wanting a lot of options.
Sport S seem to be much more advantageous by keeping the options minimal AFAIK.

Good choice highlighting the anti-spin rear diff though, great bargain there!

That was as close to an apples to apples comparison I could do, aka it included those options.

Sahara residual was lower near the Rubi - so would just get the Rubi.

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