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intentsrig

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So I was going to take your advice and add the locker and chromoly shafts. Problem is, there is t an eLocker out for the sport Dana 44. Guess I will run it with the limited slip for now.

Intentsrig - did you just chop your factory sport fenders (front and back)? Any problems? May do that that and add the AAL lights.
Yeah I just chopped my fenders and have no brackets lol.

Their is a locker for the sport 44. ARB makes one. Which is what I have

Edit: ohh I see you said elocker. Yeah probably not going to happen for awhile. Still I wouldnt put in that non full float Dynatrac. I’d go ultimate 60’s before that.
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intentsrig

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Only rear locker I have found for the sport 44 is ARB, that said, i think OX locker is coming out with one, just not sure it will work on our sport 44s. 32 spline axle shafts vs rubicon 44 is 35 spline.
Are you talking about stock Rubicon rear shafts? Stock Rubicon is 32 spline.
 

Therby

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Are you talking about stock Rubicon rear shafts? Stock Rubicon is 32 spline.
oh your right, so both m220/44 run 32 spline axles. Rubicon are just longer shafts obviously.

I think i read on here you cant but i wont how hard or if it would be worth it to buy the carrier/locker section out of a rubi to install in a sport
 

Moto_21

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oh your right, so both m220/44 run 32 spline axles. Rubicon are just longer shafts obviously.

I think i read on here you cant but i wont how hard or if it would be worth it to buy the carrier/locker section out of a rubi to install in a sport
Shaft lengths are different and different spline lengths or thicknesses going into the locker i believe.
 

Therby

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Shaft lengths are different and different spline lengths or thicknesses going into the locker i believe.
thank you

lets hope someone other than ARB comes out with something for our sport rears soon.

Like I said, OX locker is but will it fit the 220
In the rubi/gladiator or the 220 in the sport/sahara
 

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intentsrig

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The thing I like about the sport 44 is equal length shafts. That way if you need a replacement on the trail, it doesn't matter if someone can find you a right or left. They are the same!

Vs rubicon which is right or left specific.
 

IronScott

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I've been trying to find a proper thread to add my questions to and this seems to be a good one. I can start a new thread if I need to. Anyway ...

My rig: Sahara, 2.0L auto, LSD and Selec-Trac. Stock gears and axles. 3.5" Rock Krawler lift.

I just swapped to 37s (Patagonia M/T) from 315/70/17 KO2. I know I'll need to re-gear at some point but I also want lockers, at least on the front, so I'm thinking about replacing the front or both axles. If I can find some Rubicon take-offs, that would be ideal from a cost and ease-of-install perspective, but threads like this one have me thinking of a new front setup and leaving the rear alone for now, except for gears.

I don't wheel this super hard. Some off-road parks but mostly national forest trails (some pretty rough), water crossings, mud, climbs - quite a few places where lockers are either necessary or extremely helpful.

Would an aftermarket front setup, like PR44 + stock D44 rear be better or worse than full Rubicon take-offs front and rear? I guess my hesitation is cost on a solution like PR44 considering I don't do hardcore rock climbing with the JL (I have a YJ built for that).

[edit] Forgot to add - I work from home so am not worried about daily driving or gas mileage. Given that, maybe RCV axle shafts up front with lockers of some sort would be a cost-effective alternative.
 
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SpookyXJ

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I've been trying to find a proper thread to add my questions to and this seems to be a good one. I can start a new thread if I need to. Anyway ...

My rig: Sahara, 2.0L auto, LSD and Selec-Trac. Stock gears and axles. 3.5" Rock Krawler lift.

I just swapped to 37s (Patagonia M/T) from 315/70/17 KO2. I know I'll need to re-gear at some point but I also want lockers, at least on the front, so I'm thinking about replacing the front or both axles. If I can find some Rubicon take-offs, that would be ideal from a cost and ease-of-install perspective, but threads like this one have me thinking of a new front setup and leaving the rear alone for now, except for gears.

I don't wheel this super hard. Some off-road parks but mostly national forest trails (some pretty rough), water crossings, mud, climbs - quite a few places where lockers are either necessary or extremely helpful.

Would an aftermarket front setup, like PR44 + stock D44 rear be better or worse than full Rubicon take-offs front and rear? I guess my hesitation is cost on a solution like PR44 considering I don't do hardcore rock climbing with the JL (I have a YJ built for that).

[edit] Forgot to add - I work from home so am not worried about daily driving or gas mileage. Given that, maybe RCV axle shafts up front with lockers of some sort would be a cost-effective alternative.
It would depend on the cost of the Rubicon takeoffs. Chances are your gonna want to regear lower than 4.10's for 37's so a new front axle and regearing your 220 rear might be more cost effective.

Prorock 44 is pretty pricey and you will need a new front driveshaft. A plus for this option is you can get it with pretty much any locker you want. Great choice if you can afford it.

You might consider A Dana Ultimate 44 instead. It has thicker tubes than the Rubicon axles, no FAD, comes with chromoly shafts with 1410 u-joints and a electric locker. Same track width as a Rubicon and you can reuse your factory driveshaft. Gearing choices all the way from 4.10-5.38. They run about $4400 shipped. Only thing I don't like about it is your stuck with the factory locker. I'd rather have an Arb.

That's the route I'm going. Ultimate 44 with 4.88's, regear my sport 220 rear, and an Arb locker with either 37" or 38" tires. Definitely do the rear locker when you regear. The trash-lok has always been a wear item and requires clutch replacement. Its seems to be worse for the JL many owners are experiencing premature failure of the trac-lok and getting complete axle assemblies replaced under warranty.
 

IronScott

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It would depend on the cost of the Rubicon takeoffs. Chances are your gonna want to regear lower than 4.10's for 37's so a new front axle and regearing your 220 rear might be more cost effective.

Prorock 44 is pretty pricey and you will need a new front driveshaft. A plus for this option is you can get it with pretty much any locker you want. Great choice if you can afford it.

You might consider A Dana Ultimate 44 instead. It has thicker tubes than the Rubicon axles, no FAD, comes with chromoly shafts with 1410 u-joints and a electric locker. Same track width as a Rubicon and you can reuse your factory driveshaft. Gearing choices all the way from 4.10-5.38. They run about $4400 shipped. Only thing I don't like about it is your stuck with the factory locker. I'd rather have an Arb.

That's the route I'm going. Ultimate 44 with 4.88's, regear my sport 220 rear, and an Arb locker with either 37" or 38" tires. Definitely do the rear locker when you regear. The trash-lok has always been a wear item and requires clutch replacement. Its seems to be worse for the JL many owners are experiencing premature failure of the trac-lok and getting complete axle assemblies replaced under warranty.
Thank you for the detailed response. What you say makes perfect sense. Definitely leaning toward the UD44 now. It looks like a great upgrade over a standard D44. I really didn't want to get an ARB due to the extra cost of the air compressor but it may be best to just bite the bullet and get onboard air for tires at the same time. No sense in re-gearing the rear and not adding a locker at the same time.

Not looking forward to explaining this to the Mrs. :lipssealed:
 

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shadowmoto17

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I saw that most talked about their LSD, but what about the anti-slip diff? Will it wear out sooner, and thus looking for a Rubicon rear swap would be the better route? Doing my research now on swapping the fron 30 with a prorock and didn't know about the drain plug difference. Still feel like I'm new at the suspension but I'm having Adams 1310 drive shafts installed pretty soon with 4.88 gears(yes I don't care about the gas millage since I have a short commute also). Would like to run 37"s after I'm done with my 35"s so just trying to prep what I have right now.
 

IronScott

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Put in an order today for UD44 front axle with e-locker and re-gear the rear to 4.88 to match. I'm leaving the rear LSD for now.

I already have a Rock Krawler adjustable track bar. I think the drag link I have is fine but I'll need to get a Rubi-sized tie-rod. Any recommendations?
 

yotajeeper

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Put in an order today for UD44 front axle with e-locker and re-gear the rear to 4.88 to match. I'm leaving the rear LSD for now.

I already have a Rock Krawler adjustable track bar. I think the drag link I have is fine but I'll need to get a Rubi-sized tie-rod. Any recommendations?
Are you going to be running spacers for the rear to Match the front?
 

IronScott

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Are you going to be running spacers for the rear to Match the front?
Yep. Already have them installed on both axles due to the 37s. My wheels don’t have the right backspacing to keep from rubbing with 37s. So, after the UD44 is installed up front the rear should be a close match.
 

Moto_21

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Yep. Already have them installed on both axles due to the 37s. My wheels don’t have the right backspacing to keep from rubbing with 37s. So, after the UD44 is installed up front the rear should be a close match.
I have 1.5” spacers in the rear and its like 1/2” wider each side than the front, takes a bit getting used to navigating tight obstacles, rear will track wider and get into stuff you dont want...like slide off a ledge and high side you. Lol
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