SpookyXJ's Jeep Fever 2 Door JL Build

irishtim7

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Synergy's rear upper control arms(JK) are longer than stock. I was having 2 separate issues. Excessive spring bow and sway bar links contacting the axle during articulation unless adjusted to their absolute maximum length.
Got it. I'm probably going to migrate over to Synergy's lift. Was just wondering since you had all Synergy stuff. They should have all played nice together. I'm looking to do their long arm kit in the rear when It's available.





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SpookyXJ

SpookyXJ

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Got it. I'm probably going to migrate over to Synergy's lift. Was just wondering since you had all Synergy stuff. They should have all played nice together. I'm looking to do their long arm kit in the rear when It's available.
Synergy is going to do JL specific rear short arms in the future. They reused the JK arms in the rear because JK and JL factory rear arms are the same. There was a miscommunication and marketing was under the impression that the rear UCA's adjusted down to factory length. Synergy's JK UCA's were made longer for a wheelbase stretch for the JK that does not work very well for the JL. See post 33.

The longarm kit should be good to go as it is JL specific. Synergy makes top notch parts.
 
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SpookyXJ

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Finally got the Genesis DIY dual battery tray installed.
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Which batteries did you install as your duals?
 
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SpookyXJ

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Added an overider tube to my front bumper to mount some lights at some point.
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Also installed Artecs solid front inner fender liners.
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I'm supposed to be saving for a front Axle but I keep buying the little stuff first. Guess I'll save for the front axle and rear locker/regear after the rest of my list is done.
 
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Added some Pro Comp Flood/Spot combos these are super bright. These work really well and make me realize just how crappy the factory fogs and headlights are.
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Also added Synergys track bar & sector shaft brace.
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This part did not play well with my Swayloc so I had to clearance the bracket for the 2 parts not to hit.
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SpookyXJ

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Let see been a while since i updated this.

I have installed Synergy's complete HD steering setup and a Fox 2.0 IFP steering stabilizer. Did this a few weeks ago.
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Today I installed a Stalbus oil change bayonet valve and did my first oil change at a little over 3k miles. The MORE Engine/Tranny skid makes a huge mess when changing oil this should make it a mess free oil change next time. Already fixed the carriage bolt on the skid if anyone notices.
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I also installed a Dana 44 Advantek cast rear diff cover. It was kinda a nightmare and took all evening. I looked up torque specs for the diff cover bolts and Northridge 4x4 has them listed at 25-30 FT LBS for the JL 44 so I set my torque wrench to 30 FT LBS and went to town. I had one of the bolts break off. So I drilled it out and inserted a craftsman ease out in it and the ease out broke off in there. Spent a few hours trying to drill it out and finally manged to get the ease out loose by drilling next to it and beating it with a punch. Decided to just completely drill out the bolt and about 1 minute into it the drill bit broke so another bit of hardened steel in the way. Took a couple of more hours and boogered up the start of the threads but it finally came out and I was able to chase out the back half of the threads. Anyway the bolts Dana supplies with the cover suck and I would not go over 25 ft lbs if you install one of these.
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I also have some Dana chromoly shafts but I'm gonna wait till I regear which is put off indefinitely until the economy is more of a sure thing.
 

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Nice looking rig!

What size were the bolts on the diff cover? (looks like 5/16" or 3/8").
After breaking a grade eight bolt earlier this year, looked up the spec of bolt torques for dry vs. wet.
Found out when that anti-seize counts as wet (i.e., different K factor).
So I was over torquing the bolts.
Here is the chart that was used after getting the broken bolt out.
Torque-Tension Chart for A307 Gr5 Gr8 Gr9.jpg
 

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Nice looking rig!

What size were the bolts on the diff cover? (looks like 5/16" or 3/8").
After breaking a grade eight bolt earlier this year, looked up the spec of bolt torques for dry vs. wet.
Found out when that anti-seize counts as wet (i.e., different K factor).
So I was over torquing the bolts.
Here is the chart that was used after getting the broken bolt out.
Torque-Tension Chart for A307 Gr5 Gr8 Gr9.jpg
Whats interesting here is that zinc plate makes a huge difference! Look at the bold at the bottom - "zinc plated top lock nuts the K can vary 0.12 to 0.16" -- these are the nuts that are so common in aftermarket suspension components. MC and Synergy both use them as they are great and stay tight. But on a 9/16 inch bolt it's a 24 ft/lb difference!
 

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I also have some Dana chromoly shafts but I'm gonna wait till I regear which is put off indefinitely until the economy is more of a sure thing.
That cover looks counterfeit. The logo looks off as only single color - usually white/blue. All these are cast in the same factory but the "2nds" get sold off as counterfeit. Likely with shit hardware tossed in the box which may explain your issue.

Same with the ARB covers - you can find the counterfeits on eBay and Amazon.
 
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Thanks Creeker. Not sure on the exact bolt size.

I don't think its counterfeit got it from Northridge 4x4. It actually is blue white and black took that picture at night with a flash. I don't think the bolts that came with the cover are even grade 5 though.
Jeep116.jpg
 
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I decided to replace my Shocks. I have not been happy with the ride since I installed the Swaylock. It felt pretty unbalanced front to rear with the the bar on the stiff setting. The rear would kind of wiggle more than the front and there was a lot of induced head toss over certain rough terrain at speed. It felt very unbalance and I found myself using the soft bar around town to compensate. I was pretty annoyed that my Suzuki Samurai with YJ springs and Bilstien 5150's rode better than my JL.

I decided I wanted something adjustable, a good deal firmer than the Fox 2.0 IFPs, and saw positive reviews of the Falcon SP2 3.3's so I decided to give them a try.
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Fronts are basically same length and travel.
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Rears have a tiny bit more up and down travel.
jeep119.jpg

I had to lengthen the rear control arms and the rear swaybar links to have the swaybar clear the shock body at full droop.
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Only needed to do a minor bit of trimming on the Artec liners to access the adjustment knobs. The piggyback body tucks behind the liner with about 1/4" of clearance.
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I'm kinda regretting this purchase. They are not massive improvement over the Fox 2.0 IFPs on the SP2 soft/cold setting head toss is a little better controlled but not much. I like the firm control on the Performance setting but its a little too harsh. I should have tried to fine tune it some more with the knobs on performance before swapping it over. I'll play with it some more later on the performance setting I don't feel like pulling the bottom bolt again today to twist the shafts to change the valving. All that said the strange rear end wiggle I had with the Fox shocks is gone. For what these cost they should tuck me in at night and make me breakfast in the morning.
 

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I decided to replace my Shocks. I have not been happy with the ride since I installed the Swaylock. It felt pretty unbalanced front to rear with the the bar on the stiff setting. The rear would kind of wiggle more than the front and there was a lot of induced head toss over certain rough terrain at speed. It felt very unbalance and I found myself using the soft bar around town to compensate. I was pretty annoyed that my Suzuki Samurai with YJ springs and Bilstien 5150's rode better than my JL.

I decided I wanted something adjustable, a good deal firmer than the Fox 2.0 IFPs, and saw positive reviews of the Falcon SP2 3.3's so I decided to give them a try.
jeep118.jpg

Fronts are basically same length and travel.
jeep120.jpg

Rears have a tiny bit more up and down travel.
jeep119.jpg

I had to lengthen the rear control arms and the rear swaybar links to have the swaybar clear the shock body at full droop.
jeep121.jpg

jeep123.jpg

Only needed to do a minor bit of trimming on the Artec liners to access the adjustment knobs. The piggyback body tucks behind the liner with about 1/4" of clearance.
jeep122.jpg


I'm kinda regretting this purchase. They are not massive improvement over the Fox 2.0 IFPs on the SP2 soft/cold setting head toss is a little better controlled but not much. I like the firm control on the Performance setting but its a little too harsh. I should have tried to fine tune it some more with the knobs on performance before swapping it over. I'll play with it some more later on the performance setting I don't feel like pulling the bottom bolt again today to twist the shafts to change the valving. All that said the strange rear end wiggle I had with the Fox shocks is gone. For what these cost they should tuck me in at night and make me breakfast in the morning.
And thoughts on the falcons now?
Looking at them over my 5100s
 
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SpookyXJ

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And thoughts on the falcons now?
Looking at them over my 5100s
I had 5100's on my XJ and 5150's on my Samurai and absolutely loved them. I was kinda wondering if I should have done that again with the JL.

I'm learning that shock brake in is a lot more noticeable on the JL probably due to it weighing a lot more than vehicles I've modified in the past. The Fox 2.0's I had before started out nice and got progressively worse only had them on for about 2500 miles. I have about 700 miles on the Falcons 500 of it towing my camper with a 240lb tongue weight. I actually like the new shocks now.

After I put them on it rode like a tank. I ended up on the soft/cold sp2 setting and the softest setting on the dial. It was still overly firm especially over potholes it was downright jarring. I towed my camper up to Arkansas and it rode like a dream with the extra weight on everything but potholes which were still pretty rough. Driving it around town since I got home and it rides better than the Foxes did before I put the Swayloc on. Its still a bit jarring on deep potholes but its gotten better gone from bone jarring to just unpleasant otherwise it rides pretty nice now. Nice thing is if they wear in more I can adjust them to compensate.

I don't regret the purchase now but damn these things are expensive.
 

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