Spiderwebshade / Alien shade tops: I have some questions

Bryce

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I had thought about doing this, but ultimately though its too much of a hassle to take down the windshield just to install the shade and then take apart when you want the bungees out. That's one of the appealing aspects of the JTops with the magnets; disappointing it cost so much more.
I just leave the bungees up there when I take it off. I don't even notice them.





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Jammer

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I just don't know if I like the big buckles on the jtops and it won't match the back I keep my top off about 5 months in the summer
 

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The front bungies are loops with the plastic T handle. I pulled the 4 bolts from the top of the windshield. Flipped the wipers forward (didn't remove them). Tilted the windshield forward a few inches. Put the bolts back in the front section of the sportbar and put the bolt through a loop on the front bungees. one bungee per bolt. Put the windshield back in position and tightened up the bolts. The bungee loop is sandwiched between the sport bar and windshield with the bolt goimg through all of them and the part with the T handle sticks out the top. Then assembled the rest of the shade as the video shows.

I'm out if town and the Jeep is at home or I'd snap a few pictures

I originally did this because I didn't trust the plastic clips they send for the front bungees. This way they didn't get used.
@Jammer

Many that purchased Aliens are doing this because the plastic clips straightened/failed. Do this and you will see your sunshade move forward about 2 inches. Yes, you will need to wiggle forward your side bungees. You rear bungees will or are stretched to accommodate the forward movement.

When you free the windshield have a friend hold the windshield while it is leaning forward, so you have your hands free/so you can deal with looping the bungees .

Note: If you buy new bungees for the front they will have to be looped as mentioned here. New bungees from eBAY will have balls, not metal T's.
 

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I understand what you're saying now lower the windshield just a little bit put the bolt or help those little bungees in the front on the bolt instead of the plastic hook how does that make it much shorter isn't the boat right there at the windshield anyway in at the back is tight I don't know if I can pull it for it I can't find any bungees bigger than 20 in
 

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My solution:

I purchased the "long" style SpiderBalls ($1 each) from their competitor (SPIDERWEBSHADE), which are about 8" long.

https://www.spiderwebshade.com/collections/accessories/products/spiderballs-1

These appear to be identical match to the bungee balls which get installed onto the side bars, provided in the Alien Sunshade kit.

So, I ended up with eight of the same length bungee balls for the front windshield bar (4 total) and the driver and passenger side bars (4 total; 2 per side).

I installed the front bungee balls passing through the holes for the windshield mounting bolts.

I also installed the side bar bungees passing through holes in the frame, which differs from the installation instructions. I think the holes are used for mounting a soft top, which I don't have. I did this because I previously installed some grab handles onto the bars and utilizing the frame holes keeps the bungees from interfering with the handles.

There is a little section of slightly "loose" shade material between the front two center bungees, which I don't mind.

I can confirm that this configuration keeps the sunshade tight up against the front bar, without any gaps.

Sorry, I don't have any pictures. It's raining out now and I can't get any good pictures in my dark garage.
 
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Jammer

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My solution:

I purchased the "long" style SpiderBalls ($1 each) from their competitor (SPIDERWEBSHADE), which are about 8" long.

https://www.spiderwebshade.com/collections/accessories/products/spiderballs-1

These appear to be identical match to the bungee balls which get installed onto the side bars, provided in the Alien Sunshade kit.

So, I ended up with eight of the same length bungee balls for the front windshield bar (4 total) and the driver and passenger side bars (4 total; 2 per side).

I installed the front bungee balls passing through the holes for the windshield mounting bolts.

I also installed the side bar bungees passing through holes in the frame, which differs from the installation instructions. I think the holes are used for mounting a soft top, which I don't have. I did this because I previously installed some grab handles onto the bars and utilizing the frame holes keeps the bungees from interfering with the handles.

There is a little section of slightly "loose" shade material between the front two center bungees, which I don't mind.

I can confirm that this configuration keeps the sunshade tight up against the front bar, without any gaps.

Sorry, I don't have any pictures. It's raining out now and I can't get any good pictures in my dark garage.
You have a 2 door though right I think that's going to make a difference then on a 4-door I think
 

Rhinebeck01

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You have a 2 door though right I think that's going to make a difference then on a 4-door I think
No........... why would you think that?

2dr and 4 dr are the same... Both use the same Freedom Panels with same exact connect points.
 

Jammer

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@Jammer

Many that purchased Aliens are doing this because the plastic clips straightened/failed. Do this and you will see your sunshade move forward about 2 inches. Yes, you will need to wiggle forward your side bungees. You rear bungees will or are stretched to accommodate the forward movement.

When you free the windshield have a friend hold the windshield while it is leaning forward, so you have your hands free/so you can deal with looping the bungees .

Note: If you buy new bungees for the front they will have to be looped as mentioned here. New bungees from eBAY will have balls, not metal T's.
I've got four brand-new little bungees that came with the alien shade some reason they gave me an extra four with the little T on them I just hope that the rear bungees will allow it to go forward because they're pretty tight on the rear of the front shade and you can't find longer ones than 20 inches like came with it. you're saying I do them lonely when she'll like you going to do later and I'll put the new ones on there with the T on the boltd and the rear front shade ones I don't know if they'll get any longer there pretty tight now
 

Jammer

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No........... why would you think that?

2dr and 4 dr are the same... Both use the same Freedom Panels with same exact connect points.
I've never seen a two-door in person and looked to see that it was the same. sorry
 
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WagzDad

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Here’s some DIY replacement clips made out of 0.080 kydex. Cut 4.5” by 0.5“, heat >fold> pinch >repeat

They are easier to position with the 4 windshield bolts out, but you only need a little lean to place them.
B4535FC2-6368-4C17-BC8A-F9A060EE2FB0.jpeg
 

Jammer

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Here’s some DIY replacement clips made out of 0.080 kydex. Cut 4.5” by 0.5“, heat >fold> pinch >repeat

They are easier to position with the 4 windshield bolts out, but you only need a little lean to place them.
B4535FC2-6368-4C17-BC8A-F9A060EE2FB0.jpeg
I was told you don't need to use the clips.there's a bar going across you can loop the bungee cords around that bar and it will make it tighter without using clips
 

Jammer

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So I did a little photo editing (it's very crude).

One with a black line showing the rear edge of the speakers. The red blob is the gap you would end up having if they cut it short enough to not go over the sound bar. IMO it's a pretty substantial gap and likely why they didn't do that.

The other image would be a potential solution to the design. I used green to show the area which would be removed. Basically the design some what follows that of the sound bar's profile. Then I added black circles to represent the attachments of cords, and some black lines to show where/how the cords could connect.
The two outer edges could attach the same way they already do. Near the center of the "flap" that covers the gap they could potentially use a hook style fasteners similar or even identical to ones used on the windshield. These two hooks could latch into the two assembly holes on the top of the bar.
You're welcome Spiderwebshade for the free design idea. Feel free to use it. I'll even draw it up in a CAD file for you if you send me the proposed style back piece as a "test" fit.

gap.jpg


option.jpg
All they have to do is make it where it comes within a inch of the rear front and make it the same shape as the sound bar but don't let it touch. what you show it about the right way to make it. only thing i like about the 1 piece is the look of the black and white distressed american flag t looks cool but don't want the one piece no matter what
 

Jammer

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I did two piece as well. Didn’t like look of one piece.

Re plastic clips, I don’t use them. Remove the four bolts to lower windshield set the bungee cord loops over the holes and tape so they don’t slide. Carefully close the windshield and insert bolts. Now the bolts hold the cords. Much better solution.

AB80AB9D-BC65-41D3-BD23-205BB6169BB2.jpeg
that's still the 2 inch gap like i have now. i think the only way to stop the gap and have it real close is to get one like J-tops where it has the magnet and goes up to the front and touches all the way. then you just fold it back to get to the handels. but they don't make a rear one becsuse they say it will flap too much in the wind and that's not their standards. Of course it's going to flap all of them do so because of that they won't make a rear shade and lose business because i would buy their front and rear if they made it. and they are like $329 with no custom designs. but i guess their making a lot of shades so it doesn't matter to them. it says if you buy one its custom made to order which can take up to 2 or 3 weeks. then get this it won't ship for 20 business days so they said order one today and you might have it by the end of aug or middle of sept lol summers almost over lol
 

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that's still the 2 inch gap like i have now. i think the only way to stop the gap and have it real close is to get one like J-tops where it has the magnet and goes up to the front and touches all the way.....
Well the Spiderwebshade goes all the way to the front (see my photos on the previous page). Unfortunately their rear shade goes over the sound bar which is apparently not desirable. But the point was, J-tops isn't the "only" way to have a shade go all the way to the front.
FWIW, Spiderwebshades also has a 1 piece design, and their website shows free 2 day shipping on orders placed during the national emergency, with a 2-4 day processing time. That means you can have a front, rear, both or one piece in less than a week. That's a lot faster than end of Aug or mid Sept.
That said, I really like the flap on the J-tops, but man they cost a lot more. I'd also like to see one in person to see if it feels lower or not, due to the bar that allows it to flap open like that.
 

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