Specs for removing the factory lug nuts?

[Torero]

I keep a 16" breaker bar with the appropriate size socket that works with the Gorilla Lug Nut key in the JL at all times.

I have the socket attached to the breaker bar and the tool is placed in a 18" long piece of gray, foam pipe insulation. I keep this affair, in the small compartment where the scissor jack is. Fits right in on top. With the foam pipe insulation, I have no metal to metal related rattles.

I learned long ago, you can be up chitt creek so to speak, sometimes trying to break lugs loose with the little tire iron that comes with the Jeep.

Once you see someone standing on a tire iron trying to break a lug loose and the lug snaps off, etc., you realize wise man/gal carries a breaker bar with socket as I do in the vehicle at all times.

I never personally use or allow use of power tools on my lug nuts.

I like the telescopic one, it’s excellent for the purpose and very cheap.
EPAuto Telescoping Lug Wrench, Wheel Wrench with CR-V Sockets (17/19, 21/22mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FV7XVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c8YbFb13T5S23

At home I use the impact wrench to loosen nuts, never to tight.

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[Rhinebeck01]

Yeah I use a 21mm for the Gorillas but it's a SAE i think as it's a bit loose.

@BCalvin
On my Gorillas, I use a 7/8 th socket.

 

[word302]

I keep a 16" breaker bar with the appropriate size socket that works with the Gorilla Lug Nut key in the JL at all times.

I have the socket attached to the breaker bar and the tool is placed in a 18" long piece of gray, foam pipe insulation. I keep this affair, in the small compartment where the scissor jack is. Fits right in on top. With the foam pipe insulation, I have no metal to metal related rattles.

I learned long ago, you can be up chitt creek so to speak, sometimes trying to break lugs loose with the little tire iron that comes with the Jeep.

Once you see someone standing on a tire iron trying to break a lug loose and the lug snaps off, etc., you realize wise man/gal carries a breaker bar with socket as I do in the vehicle at all times.

I never personally use or allow use of power tools on my lug nuts.

Removing lug nuts with power tools is fine. Never use power tools to tighten them.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

Removing lug nuts with power tools is fine. Never use power tools to tighten them.

I feel you risk marring the lugs using power tools.... on or off. I'll pass on power tools.. To each his own.

 

[whiteglad]

I don't like to wear out the threads or taper seats, so I put high pressure grease on them. Then, the torque spec is lower due to lower friction. I use a 1/2 inch drive long flex head ratchet and 22 mm deep 6 point socket.

 

[blnewt]

Removing lug nuts with power tools is fine. Never use power tools to tighten them.

You can use a lower value torque stick (like a 100ft lb one) w/ an impact, then do final torque w/ a torque wrench if you've got a hot date to get to I use torque sticks sometimes and have found them to be pretty accurate when used w/ my Bauer electric impact.
The set I have is a pretty good one for a variety of uses
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-12-in-torque-limiting-extension-bar-set-69870.html

 

[word302]

I feel you risk marring the lugs using power tools.... on or off. I'll pass on power tools.. To each his own.

I don’t see how, you’re spinning the same threads, just faster. It only becomes a problem when you’re cross-threaded which doesn’t happen when you’re removing a nut.

 

[word302]

You can use a lower value torque stick (like a 100ft lb one) w/ an impact, then do final torque w/ a torque wrench if you've got a hot date to get to I use torque sticks sometimes and have found them to be pretty accurate when used w/ my Bauer electric impact.
The set I have is a pretty good one for a variety of uses
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-12-in-torque-limiting-extension-bar-set-69870.html

It’s not worth the agony of replacing a stud if one gets cross-threaded, I especially wouldn’t trust anything from hf for precision.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I don’t see how, you’re spinning the same threads, just faster. It only becomes a problem when you’re cross-threaded which doesn’t happen when you’re removing a nut.

I was talking about damaging the finish on the lug nut itself or pulling off the veneer or cap on the lug nut. Was not talking about damaging the actual wheel stud.

 

[word302]

Huh .......... You must be referencing another post.

No, I’m saying how are you gonna mar threads when removing, even with power tools. If a thread has debris in it it’s likely toast no matter what speed you remove it at.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

No, I’m saying how are you gonna mar threads when removing, even with power tools. If a thread has debris in it it’s likely toast no matter what speed you remove it at.

I never said or implied there would be thread damage.

Again, lug nuts that have veneers on the splines (Gorilla's) or caps on them like some Wrangler lug nuts, ......you can easily tear off the cap or veneer, especially when using power tools on them.

 

[blnewt]

It’s not worth the agony of replacing a stud if one gets cross-threaded, I especially wouldn’t trust anything from hf for precision.

I've verified every stick in that set, and they are within 5 ft lbs of the listed torque. Understand you're wary of using power tools to tighten nuts, and I don't argue what you're saying, I never put a nut on without verifying that it's threaded properly FWIW. I typically rotate the tires on all my vehicles on the same day and it does save time, I don't use them for just a few nuts though

 

[Torero]

This thread is going south.

 

[word302]

No, I’m saying how are you gonna mar threads when removing, even with power tools. If a thread has debris in it it’s likely toast no matter what speed you remove it at.

Ah gotcha. Yeah I don’t care what my lug nuts look like. My beadlock rings already have plenty of rock rash on them. Adds character.

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