So I got everything installed yesterday. The reason you don't need bass blockers, and the reason the highs aren't overpowered by too many tweeters, is because there is no bass being sent to the dash speakers, and no treble being sent to the knees. The tweeters in the 6.5s aren't playing at all. Thats also the reason that the speakers aren't any louder. The frequencies and the power are being controlled by the factory amp. The highs are sharper because the little tweeters are easier to move than the factory 3.5s, but they will still only play the frequencies in which they are allowed to play. The focal provide a touch more midbass than factory, but that is only because of their size. The focals sound better than factory, but honestly sound like crap. I've had these in another build, and in the JL they are being severely throttled. This also means there's a good chance your sub isn't hitting up to its potential. I'm wondering if something exists like the PAC where you could grab the signal after the amp and flatten it out, and give you some tuning control to bring out the potential of these speakers. That way you could really step the system up without having to install another amp.I
I’m no expert on the signal either, just followed the advice of others on the forum and the wiring diagram colors but it worked. I did have my polarity reversed at first. Meaning at center no base. At left or right full, base on each side only. Then swapped the left/right wires and the base was centered with what was expected.
You maybe able to access the Wrangler JL sub wiring easier than the Gladiator. That’s why I went with the soundbar wires as the sub is difficult to get to without major disassembling in the JT.
While you are correct, in this instance it does not matter. I tested the the speakers running free air and sealed, they sound identical and the same quality as the factory speakers as far as the knees go. They are running a super limited frequency to the speakers, they cannot sound better until you bypass the built in cross over and run full range to them.You are trying to improve on a well engineered system with drivers matched to tuned, ported enclosures. Randomly putting speakers designed for open air (door panel) installation into small sealed enclosures is going to be disappointing. Ask me how I know.
If you’re gonna use pods, get some 6” drivers designed to work in a sealed enclosure. Thats why the small bookshelf speakers in my office are outperforming your custom install.
Also, take notice of the solid piece of plastic you reinstalled in front of that 6.5” woofer when you put your dash back together.
I find it as unlikely that you went to the trouble of properly testing your speakers in a free air system as I do that they would have sounded identical.... I tested the the speakers running free air and sealed, they sound identical and the same quality ...
How does the 8" jl audio sub sound in the Jeep? Do you wish you went with 10 or 12"? Loaded box or separate amp?Thanks for that info.
So no four channel amp for the dash or overhead speakers, just the subs....
I mounted a 8 inch JL Audio sub to the tailgate with z channel to save some cargo space and can be slid off with tailgate open. ( harder with doors locked)
Can you tell me what you used to plug amp to the radio? Part number where? Plz thanks.I replaced the factory which were not alpine with all kicker speakers
I had to remove the side pieces on the dash for the knee speakers, but were easy to do. I did add an amplifier to the speakers as well, see below:
Kicker DSC 350 x 2-dash and above the head
Kicker 44KSC404 x 2 - knee and above the head
Kicker 11H58 x 2 -150watt powered 8" subwoofers
Kicker DXA500.1 ( 43DXA5001) amp