Sound system upgrade advice

ziff73

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Hey everyone. I've done a far bit of googling on here and and other places and think i have most of my questions resolved. I would appreciate some guidance on a few remaining questions. Please see below and appreciate your thoughts. Hope everyone is safe in the current environment.

Vehicle – 2020 JLUR
Factory – 8.4” Premium with Alpine amp and sub

Potential Setup
Amp - JL Audio VX700/5i
Front Speakers – Component? – Recommend for Amp? Stick with 4” or go big with 6.5”?
Soundbar Speakers – Component or Coaxial? – Recommend for Amp? Stick with 4” or go big with 6.5”
Front Speaker Pods - Metra JP-1014 Jeep Speaker Pods – if go with 6.5”
Soundbar adapter - SSV Works JJT-SA065 – if go with 6.5”
Sub - JL Audio Stealthbox - 10TW1 (2 ohm) – Passenger Side any reason to go 4 ohm?
Interface - PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 w/ PAC APA-TOS1 – connect via RCA and optical
Amp Rack - JL Audio SBA-J-JLU-UAR – mount under front passenger seat
Patch Cables - EFX 6-Channel RCA Patch Cables – 12 foot – is this too short / long
Optical Digital - Metra ethereal MHX-T2 – 2 meters – is this long enough?
Power Wiring Kit - Rockford Fosgate RFK4 – do I need separate fuse block/bracket?
Digital Remote - JL Audio DRC-205 – besides car power adapter in dash, where else could I mount?
Speaker wire - Stinger PRO Series Speaker Wire - 14 gauge – 40 ft - is this 14 overkill? 40 ft?
Sound Deadener – to wrap the front speaker pods and soundbar enclosure if go 6.5”
PolyFil
Mopar parts (to replace trim after sub removed) - 6LU84TX7AD, 6BM34TX7AB, 6SQ60TX7AA
Tesa Tape – how much

Have been driving lately with doors and top off and have been underwhelmed by the current sound and thinking of upgrading. How much of a difference with the above configuration make relative to current factory premium?

I think I have most items dialed in with the exception of speaker selection. Any thoughts on speaker size, brand and type for the front and soundbar? JL, Morel, Focal, ??? If using the SSV Works on the soundbar with 6.5’s how much lower does the speaker hang from the soundbar relative to factory? And do all the speakers have to have the same ohm rating?

I’m relatively comfortable doing some modifications to the vehicle and am considering doing this on my own. The only area where I may run into difficulties is tuning. I’ve seen some videos where people RTA test prior to upgrading. What’s the purpose of that? Or do I not have this issue using the Pac AmpPro. I assume the main part of tuning would be after everything is installed.

If driving with the doors off, is the amp visible beneath the passenger seat? Any ways to make more stealth

Any other thoughts would be helpful.

Thanks again and hope you have a great holiday weekend.

Regards
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Sting_NC_USA

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My .02

Amp - JL Audio VX700/5i
  • Nice choice, lots of control in the DSP
Front Speakers – Component? – Recommend for Amp? Stick with 4” or go big with 6.5”?
  • Component's are a must.
  • JL Audio C5's in the Metra enclosure
  • You'll need a mount for the tweeters in the dash - metal backstrap works fine
Soundbar Speakers – Component or Coaxial? – Recommend for Amp? Stick with 4” or go big with 6.5”
  • It's challenging to get too much sound out of the soundbar that the driver/passenger can hear.
  • Matching the fronts, but using the Coax version works, though you could also run the C2's, which have a 4-inch coax. This would allow you to avoid significant modding of the soundbar, while providing good "fill" in the rear stage.
Front Speaker Pods - Metra JP-1014 Jeep Speaker Pods – if go with 6.5”
  • Yup, no brainer
Soundbar adapter - SSV Works JJT-SA065 – if go with 6.5”
  • Depends on your position from the recommendation above.
Sub - JL Audio Stealthbox - 10TW1 (2 ohm) – Passenger Side any reason to go 4 ohm?
  • Not a fan, personally. If you're simply wanting a little more bass, and are concerned about space, then yes, these will work fine. 2-Ohm will work your amp harder and generate more heat, though the VXi can take it, especially since your using the JL Audio amp rack (airflow).
Interface - PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 w/ PAC APA-TOS1 – connect via RCA and optical
  • Once again, a personal preference, though I'm not sure why folks are using the Toslink with a stock stereo head. The sound quality difference will be minimal compared to the additional cost.
Amp Rack - JL Audio SBA-J-JLU-UAR – mount under front passenger seat
  • Yup, another no brainer
Patch Cables - EFX 6-Channel RCA Patch Cables – 12 foot – is this too short / long
  • If you're using the PAC, installing it on the side of the inner center console, and you're using the passenger seat amp rack, 12 feet will be way to long. Get six and you'll still have slack.
Optical Digital - Metra ethereal MHX-T2 – 2 meters – is this long enough?
  • If you go with the optical option, 2 meters is fine
Power Wiring Kit - Rockford Fosgate RFK4 – do I need separate fuse block/bracket?
  • It comes with a fuse holder, but it's a bit sketchy - I prefer to buy my wire locally and get a solid fuse and distribution block option.
Digital Remote - JL Audio DRC-205 – besides car power adapter in dash, where else could I mount?
  • Mine is mounted in the center console, under the emergency brake in that little storage spot. Very convenient, BUT... It gets soaked when I'm caught in the rain topless. There's no perfectly obvious spot, unless you don't have the AUX switches. If you don't, you can mount it tucked into the cubby hole.
Speaker wire - Stinger PRO Series Speaker Wire - 14 gauge – 40 ft - is this 14 overkill? 40 ft?
  • Assuming you're running fresh wiring, and not using the PAC's option to send the amplified signal through your stock speaker wiring (recommended that you don't use stock wiring), you'll likely need more wire. The 14 gauge will be great, just get more of it. I don't think the rolls of 100 cost much more, but definitely get more than 40.
Sound Deadener – to wrap the front speaker pods and soundbar enclosure if go 6.5”
  • Yup, a must have
PolyFil
  • Another must have
Mopar parts (to replace trim after sub removed) - 6LU84TX7AD, 6BM34TX7AB, 6SQ60TX7AA
  • Nice touch
Tesa Tape – how much
  • Ewe, no... just no. ;)
    • OK, it's great stuff, but so much is needed
  • Instead, use quality wire connectors covered by heat shrink, or even better solder your wires and then heat shrink.
  • Then, consider buying a batch of small and medium zip ties to properly bundle and secure your wiring.
 
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ziff73

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Messages
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My .02

Amp - JL Audio VX700/5i
  • Nice choice, lots of control in the DSP
Front Speakers – Component? – Recommend for Amp? Stick with 4” or go big with 6.5”?
  • Component's are a must.
  • JL Audio C5's in the Metra enclosure
  • You'll need a mount for the tweeters in the dash - metal backstrap works fine
Soundbar Speakers – Component or Coaxial? – Recommend for Amp? Stick with 4” or go big with 6.5”
  • It's challenging to get too much sound out of the soundbar that the driver/passenger can hear.
  • Matching the fronts, but using the Coax version works, though you could also run the C2's, which have a 4-inch coax. This would allow you to avoid significant modding of the soundbar, while providing good "fill" in the rear stage.
Front Speaker Pods - Metra JP-1014 Jeep Speaker Pods – if go with 6.5”
  • Yup, no brainer
Soundbar adapter - SSV Works JJT-SA065 – if go with 6.5”
  • Depends on your position from the recommendation above.
Sub - JL Audio Stealthbox - 10TW1 (2 ohm) – Passenger Side any reason to go 4 ohm?
  • Not a fan, personally. If you're simply wanting a little more bass, and are concerned about space, then yes, these will work fine. 2-Ohm will work your amp harder and generate more heat, though the VXi can take it, especially since your using the JL Audio amp rack (airflow).
Interface - PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 w/ PAC APA-TOS1 – connect via RCA and optical
  • Once again, a personal preference, though I'm not sure why folks are using the Toslink with a stock stereo head. The sound quality difference will be minimal compared to the additional cost.
Amp Rack - JL Audio SBA-J-JLU-UAR – mount under front passenger seat
  • Yup, another no brainer
Patch Cables - EFX 6-Channel RCA Patch Cables – 12 foot – is this too short / long
  • If you're using the PAC, installing it on the side of the inner center console, and you're using the passenger seat amp rack, 12 feet will be way to long. Get six and you'll still have slack.
Optical Digital - Metra ethereal MHX-T2 – 2 meters – is this long enough?
  • If you go with the optical option, 2 meters is fine
Power Wiring Kit - Rockford Fosgate RFK4 – do I need separate fuse block/bracket?
  • It comes with a fuse holder, but it's a bit sketchy - I prefer to buy my wire locally and get a solid fuse and distribution block option.
Digital Remote - JL Audio DRC-205 – besides car power adapter in dash, where else could I mount?
  • Mine is mounted in the center console, under the emergency brake in that little storage spot. Very convenient, BUT... It gets soaked when I'm caught in the rain topless. There's no perfectly obvious spot, unless you don't have the AUX switches. If you don't, you can mount it tucked into the cubby hole.
Speaker wire - Stinger PRO Series Speaker Wire - 14 gauge – 40 ft - is this 14 overkill? 40 ft?
  • Assuming you're running fresh wiring, and not using the PAC's option to send the amplified signal through your stock speaker wiring (recommended that you don't use stock wiring), you'll likely need more wire. The 14 gauge will be great, just get more of it. I don't think the rolls of 100 cost much more, but definitely get more than 40.
Sound Deadener – to wrap the front speaker pods and soundbar enclosure if go 6.5”
  • Yup, a must have
PolyFil
  • Another must have
Mopar parts (to replace trim after sub removed) - 6LU84TX7AD, 6BM34TX7AB, 6SQ60TX7AA
  • Nice touch
Tesa Tape – how much
  • Ewe, no... just no. ;)
    • OK, it's great stuff, but so much is needed
  • Instead, use quality wire connectors covered by heat shrink, or even better solder your wires and then heat shrink.
  • Then, consider buying a batch of small and medium zip ties to properly bundle and secure your wiring.
Thanks for your comments.

Fronts - so JL c5-650's? forgot the backstrap for the tweeter, thanks. assume the crossover can just be mounted on the side of the metra after installed under the dash?

Soundbar - so if no SSV works, JL c2-400x ? will this fit in where the other speaker is? any modding to be done? do i also remove the factory tweeter?

thanks again!
 

Sting_NC_USA

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Thanks for your comments.

Fronts - so JL c5-650's? forgot the backstrap for the tweeter, thanks. assume the crossover can just be mounted on the side of the metra after installed under the dash?

Soundbar - so if no SSV works, JL c2-400x ? will this fit in where the other speaker is? any modding to be done? do i also remove the factory tweeter?

thanks again!
Yes, the 650’s will work great with your amp. There are a few plastic tabs on the Metra pods that need to be trimmed before the speakers fit in there (Metra added them for some strange reason).

Crossover location can be a little tricky depending upon their size. Try the side of the Metra pods first, though you can find any open spot and simply extend the speaker wire from the crossover to the speakers as needed. I’ve recently mounted some down in the lower kick panel area, because the crossover boxes were huge.

The C2-400’s will fit, but the screw holes won’t line up (3 vs 4 holes). It may not sit perfectly flush either. I recommend cutting some sound deadening material to use as a seal, drilling new screw holes as needed.

You can leave the factory tweeter, just disconnect it if you do.

Also, remember you have to calibrate the PAC device before you’ll hear any sound. I get a ton of “panic” calls/messages about that.

Good Luck!
 
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ziff73

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i've done some reading on the c2's and am concerned they may be a little weak for the mission. any other suggestions?

just to confirm, when you say calibrate the PAC, you mean
1) set appropriate dip switches (if i keep #1 up and still use both Optical and RCA to amp, will i still get chime in RCA mode?)
2) no need to sleep cycle because already have amp
3) set gains. if i don't have a scope, any idea on best practice for appropriate levels
4) set chime / minimum volume levels
5) assume for setting frequencies, i'll keep these as is and adjust in Vxi DSP? or should i adjust here as well.

also, i assume i connect both rca 5 and 6 to the amp and then combine those two at the amp for single output since single sub.

another random question, i just read that someone installed the PAC in their JL with proximity key (which i also have) and the databus line was keeping the blue wire on and keeping the amp powered up? they tapped the heated power seat fuse? Did they mess up the install?
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/factory-alpine-upgrade.51678/
 

Sting_NC_USA

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i've done some reading on the c2's and am concerned they may be a little weak for the mission. any other suggestions?

just to confirm, when you say calibrate the PAC, you mean
1) set appropriate dip switches (if i keep #1 up and still use both Optical and RCA to amp, will i still get chime in RCA mode?)
2) no need to sleep cycle because already have amp
3) set gains. if i don't have a scope, any idea on best practice for appropriate levels
4) set chime / minimum volume levels
5) assume for setting frequencies, i'll keep these as is and adjust in Vxi DSP? or should i adjust here as well.

also, i assume i connect both rca 5 and 6 to the amp and then combine those two at the amp for single output since single sub.

another random question, i just read that someone installed the PAC in their JL with proximity key (which i also have) and the databus line was keeping the blue wire on and keeping the amp powered up? they tapped the heated power seat fuse? Did they mess up the install?
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/factory-alpine-upgrade.51678/
C5’s all around then. The C2’s match that amp just fine, but you surely can’t go wrong with C5’s.

I was referencing the sleep cycles. With your VXI, you’ll want to disable the PAC’s EQ.

Haven’t experienced an install with a proximity sensor, so I’ll have to defer to others.
 

Du0377

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Hey everyone. I've done a far bit of googling on here and and other places and think i have most of my questions resolved. I would appreciate some guidance on a few remaining questions. Please see below and appreciate your thoughts. Hope everyone is safe in the current environment.

Vehicle – 2020 JLUR
Factory – 8.4” Premium with Alpine amp and sub

Potential Setup
Amp - JL Audio VX700/5i
Front Speakers – Component? – Recommend for Amp? Stick with 4” or go big with 6.5”?
Soundbar Speakers – Component or Coaxial? – Recommend for Amp? Stick with 4” or go big with 6.5”
Front Speaker Pods - Metra JP-1014 Jeep Speaker Pods – if go with 6.5”
Soundbar adapter - SSV Works JJT-SA065 – if go with 6.5”
Sub - JL Audio Stealthbox - 10TW1 (2 ohm) – Passenger Side any reason to go 4 ohm?
Interface - PAC AmpPRO AP4-CH41 w/ PAC APA-TOS1 – connect via RCA and optical
Amp Rack - JL Audio SBA-J-JLU-UAR – mount under front passenger seat
Patch Cables - EFX 6-Channel RCA Patch Cables – 12 foot – is this too short / long
Optical Digital - Metra ethereal MHX-T2 – 2 meters – is this long enough?
Power Wiring Kit - Rockford Fosgate RFK4 – do I need separate fuse block/bracket?
Digital Remote - JL Audio DRC-205 – besides car power adapter in dash, where else could I mount?
Speaker wire - Stinger PRO Series Speaker Wire - 14 gauge – 40 ft - is this 14 overkill? 40 ft?
Sound Deadener – to wrap the front speaker pods and soundbar enclosure if go 6.5”
PolyFil
Mopar parts (to replace trim after sub removed) - 6LU84TX7AD, 6BM34TX7AB, 6SQ60TX7AA
Tesa Tape – how much

Have been driving lately with doors and top off and have been underwhelmed by the current sound and thinking of upgrading. How much of a difference with the above configuration make relative to current factory premium?

I think I have most items dialed in with the exception of speaker selection. Any thoughts on speaker size, brand and type for the front and soundbar? JL, Morel, Focal, ??? If using the SSV Works on the soundbar with 6.5’s how much lower does the speaker hang from the soundbar relative to factory? And do all the speakers have to have the same ohm rating?

I’m relatively comfortable doing some modifications to the vehicle and am considering doing this on my own. The only area where I may run into difficulties is tuning. I’ve seen some videos where people RTA test prior to upgrading. What’s the purpose of that? Or do I not have this issue using the Pac AmpPro. I assume the main part of tuning would be after everything is installed.

If driving with the doors off, is the amp visible beneath the passenger seat? Any ways to make more stealth

Any other thoughts would be helpful.

Thanks again and hope you have a great holiday weekend.

Regards
How did it turn out? I just ordered all of this before I saw your post. I ordered the stealthbox the jl xd 700 5 channel amp, i already installed the 6.5 jl c2s in the front. Im doing the ssv with the same in the soundbar. I was going to put rhe jlc2350s in dash but I cant find anywhere it says they fit. For the soundbar im not going to install a tweeter just the coax c2650x’s.
 
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ziff73

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i ended up a little different than above.

AMP - (like yours) XD700/5v2
c5's in the front and c5 coax in the soundbar
Sub - i went with a downfiring kicker in the back, https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20647TRT10/Kicker-47TRTP102.html?tp=112

everything is great but i have an annoying issue with auto start stop, every time the car restarts at a light the amp restarts and the audio cuts 1-2 seconds. thus i just disable ESS now.
 

LSguy

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You aren't the only one who has this issue, I've seen multiple people talk about it on the forum. I haven't seen a solution though. I run kicker amps and they do not do this. I'm wondering if it is the 3 second power off delay that the amps have, or if somehow the DSR1 grabs remote turn on from a different location than the PAC. Since you went with the XD amp and PAC, what are you using for a dsp? Or are you just running passive?
 

Vandy23

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Another thought...My set up will be a little different but heading in the same direction. Instead of the PAC, i will be going with the Stinger. From there I plan on installing JL C2-350x in the dash and sound bar, paired with JL component 6.5s in kick panel and 4s in sound bar. I will keep integrated Alpine amp for speakers. For the sub I will add a JL 10-TW3 to the existing enclosure driven by the JL XD300.
 

Du0377

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Another thought...My set up will be a little different but heading in the same direction. Instead of the PAC, i will be going with the Stinger. From there I plan on installing JL C2-350x in the dash and sound bar, paired with JL component 6.5s in kick panel and 4s in sound bar. I will keep integrated Alpine amp for speakers. For the sub I will add a JL 10-TW3 to the existing enclosure driven by the JL XD300.
Do the JLc2 350s fit in the dash?
 

Vandy23

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Well I will see for sure but I have been told they do with some modification.
 

Du0377

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Well I will see for sure but I have been told they do with some modification.
Please post on here how it goes, I wanted to put them in but didnt want to deal with a ton of modifications but if its not too bad I’m gonna go for it.
 
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