Smittybilt JL HD Pivot Tire Carrier (7743) - Install / Review / Comments

[NTX Black Moab]

Installed mine this week. Due to the comments, I took extra care and had my wife help me make sure it was aligned the first time. But its rock solid. No rattles. Easy to use the door. There are some flaws in the instructions but nothing I didn't figure out.

Was nervous I would regret buying instead of the much more expensive new Teraflex option. Nahh.... Would definitely buy again (even though it is still new).

FYI for what its worth.

The instructions left a LOT to be desired (this coming from an engineering / consulting background), but you can figure it out.

Looks great!

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[LA Kimball]

Installed mine this week. Due to the comments, I took extra care and had my wife help me make sure it was aligned the first time. But its rock solid. No rattles. Easy to use the door. There are some flaws in the instructions but nothing I didn't figure out.

Was nervous I would regret buying instead of the much more expensive new Teraflex option. Nahh.... Would definitely buy again (even though it is still new).

FYI for what its worth.

Did you lift up on the latch side so it was slightly higher before tightening down the hinge bolts? Will that let the weight of the carrier and spare tire bring it down so it is aligned? Agree that it is solidly built.

 

[3000MMiles]

Did you lift up on the latch side so it was slightly higher before tightening down the hinge bolts? Will that let the weight of the carrier and spare tire bring it down so it is aligned? Agree that it is solidly built.

It did have a tendency to droop before tightening -- but it was on the Passenger side (PS). Here is what we did:

I started using the blue painter's tape trick. It didn't hold the tailgate up, but it was a good indicator of the height the PS of the tailgate was at before removing the old brackets -- you can watch the tape twist when you are too low or too high.

I positioned a pry bar with tape and a cloth towel to protect the paint under the tailgate on the PS bottom to check alignment vs the body. Then I had my wife put her shoulder into the lower half of the tailgate to push the bottom bracket inward and hold the pry bar to align the holes in the tub. Then I jumped in the back, coached her on a few last minor tweaks and tightened down.

I would say you should align at four total places:

1. Bolt holes where the brackets are mounted in the tub
2. The body line across the bottom of the tailgate versus the body
3. The PS of the tailgate for vertical alignment to the body
4. Make sure the bolt holes line up for the tire carrier, which is a step that comes later

Having two people helped.

 

[3000MMiles]

The instructions left a LOT to be desired (this coming from an engineering / consulting background), but you can figure it out.

Looks great!

Agreed. Thanks my friend!

 

[donmontalvo]

I bought mine after returning from my month long cross country BOH trip.

https://donmontalvo.com/2021/06

Its beautifully made, and my stock Rubicon wheels/tires mounted perfectly.

I bought it from 4WD and they also handled the install.

They had 92 in stock nation wide, so they had a few handy.

I decided on this product, because I know some folks carrying 37s without a problem, I might move to 35s in the Fall. But the bigger reason, the product comes with two antenna holes. So I can finally mount my GMRS and CB antennas on opposite sides of the tailgate.

 

[jchaisson]

I think that depends on the backspacing of your wheels. I use stock wheels so I actually have to cut the bump stop. I purchased the Energy bumpstop and from Amazon and cut to the length that works. But if I get new wheels with different back spacing I probably have to buy anther bump stop and cut to length again.

Didn't the carrier cover the holes for the bump stops?

 

[LA Kimball]

Didn't the carrier cover the holes for the bump stops?

It covers the hole on the passenger side but the drivers side can still use a bump stop.

 

[Jeepsmashin]

Installed mine today finally , thanks for this thread and I found a YouTube video that helped too

 

[donmontalvo]

Installed mine today finally , thanks for this thread and I found a YouTube video that helped too

I love mine. Finally got the ICON Rebound Pro bead lock wheels and 35" tires mounted.

The Smitybilt HD handles it beautifully. Even has a couple antenna mounts, one on each end of the tailgate.

 

[jeepnstream]

It did have a tendency to droop before tightening -- but it was on the Passenger side (PS). Here is what we did:

I started using the blue painter's tape trick. It didn't hold the tailgate up, but it was a good indicator of the height the PS of the tailgate was at before removing the old brackets -- you can watch the tape twist when you are too low or too high.

I positioned a pry bar with tape and a cloth towel to protect the paint under the tailgate on the PS bottom to check alignment vs the body. Then I had my wife put her shoulder into the lower half of the tailgate to push the bottom bracket inward and hold the pry bar to align the holes in the tub. Then I jumped in the back, coached her on a few last minor tweaks and tightened down.

I would say you should align at four total places:

1. Bolt holes where the brackets are mounted in the tub
2. The body line across the bottom of the tailgate versus the body
3. The PS of the tailgate for vertical alignment to the body
4. Make sure the bolt holes line up for the tire carrier, which is a step that comes later

Having two people helped.

I love mine. Finally got the ICON Rebound Pro bead lock wheels and 35" tires mounted.

The Smitybilt HD handles it beautifully. Even has a couple antenna mounts, one on each end of the tailgate.

Hi - picked this up last week and worked on installing it today. Same comments re the instructions as everyone else, and videos helped until we got stuck transferring the rear camera. The bracket for my camera (JL Rubicon 4xe) is different from the videos I found. The extra piece also held a back “speaker” (pic also attached).

Stuck here for the moment. Anyone else install on a 4xe?

 

[donmontalvo]

Hi - picked this up last week and worked on installing it today. Same comments re the instructions as everyone else, and videos helped until we got stuck transferring the rear camera. The bracket for my camera (JL Rubicon 4xe) is different from the videos I found. The extra piece also held a back “speaker” (pic also attached).

Stuck here for the moment. Anyone else install on a 4xe?

Yikes, no idea, I have a 2021 JLUR. Maybe give them a call?

 

[3000MMiles]

Yikes, no idea, I have a 2021 JLUR. Maybe give them a call?

Mine is a 2021 JLUR 3.6L, and I don’t remember that part either. Second the recommendation above.

(Still love it though)

 

[SSinGA]

Hi - picked this up last week and worked on installing it today. Same comments re the instructions as everyone else, and videos helped until we got stuck transferring the rear camera. The bracket for my camera (JL Rubicon 4xe) is different from the videos I found. The extra piece also held a back “speaker” (pic also attached).

Stuck here for the moment. Anyone else install on a 4xe?

I would venture a guess that the speaker is there to add "noise" when backing in electric mode.

 

[21JLURDG]

BLUF: Smittybilt SB7743 was a straightforward installation and works great. It’s not perfect, but it is definitely a good product.

I recently installed the Smittybilt JL HD Pivot Tire Carrier on my 2021 JL. I’ve seen mixed reviews here so I just wanted to add my 2₵.

1. Packaging.

a. Very neatly packaged. Based on other reviews, the first thing I did was measure the camera housing. It was the correct length (~4.5”).

b. I completed a thorough inventory of parts and came up with a few extra parts and a few missing parts. That took a while to resolve, but basically I had everything I needed. The extra parts were two M6(1.0)x25mm hex soc cntsink (I don’t think I used them). I was missing 90-7743-05 hardware pack; however, I think these were all parts needed to connect the already connected hinge and reinforcement plate.

2. Installation

a. Instructions look nice, but I quickly verified what others have pointed out—they’re vague and lack clarity. It definitely helps to watch the installation videos others have already provided.

b. Tools: Besides the standard tools such as ratchets and hammers, you’ll need T23, T40, T55, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm sockets, plastic trim tools, torque wrench 8-55 ft-lbs., medium strength (aka blue) Loctite.

c. Several people have reported that the tire carrier sagged after installation, and they had to make other adjustments (e.g. latch)--I didn’t. I believe the problem is that the bolts and nuts are corrosion protected with a heavy coating of black oxide. I found that putting the hardware on as is required excessive force, possibly exceeding torque values (therefore leaving the carrier too loose when tire added). I instead ran thread chasers on every nut and bolt prior to assembly, and they went on smooth with a small Loctite application.

d. Several others mentioned using masking tape to check tail gate alignment. I didn’t see that on my instructions. Instead, I decided to use grease pencils to make straight lines. I painstakingly made sure during the entire installation that the lines stayed straight. The only thing that didn’t perfectly match at the end was the two vertical gaps. The tail gate is slightly further to passenger side, which could be a function of how tight the hinge was applied to the body. In any case, I’ve used it multiple times and have even gone off-roading with the gate latching perfectly.

e. There were no spacers between the reinforcement plate and tail gate. I believe the reinforcement plate has been redesigned with spacers already cast into it (visible in attached pictures).

f. I didn’t install the license plate and 3rd brake light bracket. I’m using the stock plate location. Some one else mentioned putting the brake light behind the spare tire and that is also what I did. I just drilled a small hole in top of the wheel mount bracket and bolted the brake light bracket to it. How this works for you will depend on your own wheel design.

g. I ended up with some extra parts that were not mentioned in the instructions. After careful review of the inventory pictures, I think one is the limit arm bumper. I don’t know what it does and wish it had been clearly addressed in the instructions. Hopefully I will not find out later why I should have installed it.

h. I didn’t like that the OEM spare tire anti-rattle bumpers were removed and not replaced. I ended up buying an Energy Suspension 29105G Spare Tire Bumper Set on Amazon. Not sure where I saw that these will work on a JL (Energy specifies they are for JKs), but they are definitely worth it. They’re a tight fit, and a little heat made them easier to push into the hole. But sizing them about 3/8” bigger than the empty space keeps the tire really tight with no shaking or vibrations on rough roads. You can only add the left one (unless you want to drill a hole in the new tire carrier) but that is enough.

3. Conclusions

a. I mounted my original spare on this carrier with the plan of eventually adding a larger tire. I have no concerns that it will adequately accommodate at least a 37” spare.

b. My camera view is just like the original, but any changes to wheel off-set will affect this. I do wish it was possible to push the camera further to the rear.

c. How close the tire is mounted to the tail gate is limited by the lip with molded antenna mounts. They are a nice extra, but they keep the tire 1-2” further out (depending how the holes line up on the wheel mount brackets).

d. I’m disappointed on how little aluminum and how much steel was used. Smittybilt’s description states: “Strong monoblock aluminum construction eliminates tailgate sag.” The reality is that the only aluminum piece is the reinforcement plate, which I estimate is 1/3 of all material. I wish it had been less steel to cut down on the added weight, even with the added cost penalty.

 

[donmontalvo]

BLUF: Smittybilt SB7743 was a straightforward installation and works great. It’s not perfect, but it is definitely a good product.

I recently installed the Smittybilt JL HD Pivot Tire Carrier on my 2021 JL. I’ve seen mixed reviews here so I just wanted to add my 2₵.

1. Packaging.

a. Very neatly packaged. Based on other reviews, the first thing I did was measure the camera housing. It was the correct length (~4.5”).

b. I completed a thorough inventory of parts and came up with a few extra parts and a few missing parts. That took a while to resolve, but basically I had everything I needed. The extra parts were two M6(1.0)x25mm hex soc cntsink (I don’t think I used them). I was missing 90-7743-05 hardware pack; however, I think these were all parts needed to connect the already connected hinge and reinforcement plate.

2. Installation

a. Instructions look nice, but I quickly verified what others have pointed out—they’re vague and lack clarity. It definitely helps to watch the installation videos others have already provided.

b. Tools: Besides the standard tools such as ratchets and hammers, you’ll need T23, T40, T55, 10mm, 13mm, 16mm sockets, plastic trim tools, torque wrench 8-55 ft-lbs., medium strength (aka blue) Loctite.

c. Several people have reported that the tire carrier sagged after installation, and they had to make other adjustments (e.g. latch)--I didn’t. I believe the problem is that the bolts and nuts are corrosion protected with a heavy coating of black oxide. I found that putting the hardware on as is required excessive force, possibly exceeding torque values (therefore leaving the carrier too loose when tire added). I instead ran thread chasers on every nut and bolt prior to assembly, and they went on smooth with a small Loctite application.

d. Several others mentioned using masking tape to check tail gate alignment. I didn’t see that on my instructions. Instead, I decided to use grease pencils to make straight lines. I painstakingly made sure during the entire installation that the lines stayed straight. The only thing that didn’t perfectly match at the end was the two vertical gaps. The tail gate is slightly further to passenger side, which could be a function of how tight the hinge was applied to the body. In any case, I’ve used it multiple times and have even gone off-roading with the gate latching perfectly.

e. There were no spacers between the reinforcement plate and tail gate. I believe the reinforcement plate has been redesigned with spacers already cast into it (visible in attached pictures).

f. I didn’t install the license plate and 3rd brake light bracket. I’m using the stock plate location. Some one else mentioned putting the brake light behind the spare tire and that is also what I did. I just drilled a small hole in top of the wheel mount bracket and bolted the brake light bracket to it. How this works for you will depend on your own wheel design.

g. I ended up with some extra parts that were not mentioned in the instructions. After careful review of the inventory pictures, I think one is the limit arm bumper. I don’t know what it does and wish it had been clearly addressed in the instructions. Hopefully I will not find out later why I should have installed it.

h. I didn’t like that the OEM spare tire anti-rattle bumpers were removed and not replaced. I ended up buying an Energy Suspension 29105G Spare Tire Bumper Set on Amazon. Not sure where I saw that these will work on a JL (Energy specifies they are for JKs), but they are definitely worth it. They’re a tight fit, and a little heat made them easier to push into the hole. But sizing them about 3/8” bigger than the empty space keeps the tire really tight with no shaking or vibrations on rough roads. You can only add the left one (unless you want to drill a hole in the new tire carrier) but that is enough.

3. Conclusions

a. I mounted my original spare on this carrier with the plan of eventually adding a larger tire. I have no concerns that it will adequately accommodate at least a 37” spare.

b. My camera view is just like the original, but any changes to wheel off-set will affect this. I do wish it was possible to push the camera further to the rear.

c. How close the tire is mounted to the tail gate is limited by the lip with molded antenna mounts. They are a nice extra, but they keep the tire 1-2” further out (depending how the holes line up on the wheel mount brackets).

d. I’m disappointed on how little aluminum and how much steel was used. Smittybilt’s description states: “Strong monoblock aluminum construction eliminates tailgate sag.” The reality is that the only aluminum piece is the reinforcement plate, which I estimate is 1/3 of all material. I wish it had been less steel to cut down on the added weight, even with the added cost penalty.

Nice writeup. Its coming on a year, so far no sagging. Still sturdy and tight.

I'm running ICON Rebound Pro beadlocks and BF Goodrich KO2 (315/70R17c).

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